Cherry pruning is divided into summer pruning and winter pruning .
Summer pruning: the purpose of summer pruning is to reduce the ineffective growth of new shoots, increase the amount of branches and leaves, and improve the light conditions, so that the tree body is formed early, early flowers, early results. The main pruning methods are: opening angle, centering, twisting tips, wiping buds, ring peeling, ring cutting and other methods.
Winter pruning: winter pruning refers to the tree into the winter dormancy after pruning. Its main methods are: short cut, slow release, retraction, branch thinning.
2, the main tree shape and shaping process
Natural happy shape: the shape of the tree is similar to the natural happy shape of the peach tree. Dry height of 30-40 cm, no *** stem, the tree's main branches 3-5, opening angle of 30-40 degrees, each main branch left 2-3 lateral branches, to the lateral extension, opening angle of 70-80 degrees, the main branch and lateral branches on the cultivation of different types of fruit-bearing branches New Zealand, the tree height control in 3 meters, the tree crown is oblate or round.
Improved trunk shape: stem height 50-60 cm, with an upright *** stem, *** stem equipped with more than 10 uniaxial extension of the main branch, spiral focus on the center of the trunk, the angle of nearly horizontal; main branch can be layered or not obvious layering, bearing fruiting branch groups on the main branch; tree height is generally about 3 meters, planting density is low, it can be a little taller, density can be a little shorter.
Free fusiform: there is an upright robust center stem, the whole tree to stay 10-12 twigs, distributed in the middle of the trunk, the lower main branches longer, the upper main branches shorter, stem and branch ratio of 3-3.5: 1. The main branches can be taken to the base of the 3-4 for a layer, the distance between the layer of 30-40 cm, and then the main branches are no longer layered, so that the main branches spiral upward uniformly inserted into the empty arrangement. The main branches of the lower big small. The main branch opening angle on the same tree, according to the main branch bearing position, the lower main branch angle of 80-85 degrees, the middle, the upper main branch angle of 85-90 degrees. The whole tree has main branches without side branches, and the fruiting branches are directly on the main branches.
Slender fusiform: there is a central trunk, trunk height 40-60 cm, tree height 2-3.5 m, crown diameter 1.5-2.5 m, the first layer has three main branches, no lateral branches on the main branches, directly bearing fruiting branches. The first layer of the main branch above the center stem evenly distributed with a relatively uniform size v. 15-25 lateral branches growing horizontally, rotational distribution, not hierarchical. The lower branches are slightly longer, the upper branches are slightly shorter, the whole tree is slender, the top is acute angle, the whole tree shape is slender fusiform, suitable for dense planting dwarf cultivation.
Small crown sparse laminar shape: stem height 30-60 cm, tree height 3.0-3.5 meters, crown diameter 3.0-3.5 meters. Main branch 6, divided into 3 layers, the first layer of 3, the second layer of 2, the third layer of 1, the main branch base angle 60-70 degrees, layer spacing 60 cm. The main branch above the second layer does not leave side branches, directly bearing fruiting branch groups.
Hedgerow shape: the form and shape of the stand is similar to the double-armed stand of grapes, and the branches of sweet cherries are tied to the wire frame to form a hedgerow shape.
3, cherry shaping pruning should pay attention to the problem
The main problems are: ① young tree shaping on the prevalence of excessive short cuts, short cuts of the year is also longer, more large branches, so as to cause the branches of the dense crowded, poor lighting conditions, the tree shape disorders; ② results in the pruning of trees in the pruning of the varieties, back to shorten the interception of all; ③ does not distinguish between the tree's strength and weakness, the use of a way to prune; ④ does not distinguish between the growing season, do not pay attention to the age stage, not the age stage of the tree, the tree is not the same as the tree's growth. Growing season, do not pay attention to the age stage, using the same pruning method.
Problems that should be noted: ① winter pruning throughout the dormant period can be carried out, but the later the better for the cherry, generally close to the buds sprouting pruning is appropriate. ② Cherry flower buds are lateral pure flower buds, terminal buds are leaf buds. Flower buds form blind nodes after flowering and fruiting, no longer sprouting. When pruning fruiting branches, the cut buds can not be left on the flower buds, and should be left on 2-3 leaf buds above the flower bud segment. ③ When the tree branches and trunks are injured, they are susceptible to disease infection, resulting in runoff or disease, so special care should be taken not to injure the tree and branches and trunks in field management. Cherry trees should cautiously adopt ring peeling technique, which is easy to run off and break after ring peeling. ④ Cherry likes light, polarity and strong, in plastic pruning if short cut peripheral branches too much, it will cause the amount of peripheral branches is too large, the branches are crowded, the top is strong and the bottom is weak, the inner twigs and fruit-bearing branches are easy to be weak and die. ⑤ Attention should be paid to the characteristics of varieties. After the ring peeling of large cherry trees, the wound healing is slow, pay attention to the ring peeling width should not exceed 0.5cm, and due to the different tree strengths of large cherries, especially the application of organic fertilizer ...... >>
Question 2: What time to prune the cherry tree is the best Cherry branches are divided into two categories: development branches and fruiting branches, more development branches on young trees, the front end of the leaf buds to extend the growth, expanding the crown, the lower axillary buds spawned fruiting branches. After entering the fruiting period, most of the annual branches of the top buds for the leaf buds, axillary buds are mostly flower buds, known as fruiting branches. Fruiting branches are divided into long fruiting branches (15-20 cm), medium fruiting branches (5-15 cm), short fruiting branches (about 5 cm), and flower cluster fruiting branches (1-2 cm) according to their length. From the fruiting ability, long fruiting branch fruiting power is poor, generally about 40%; medium fruiting branch fruiting ability varies according to varieties; short fruiting branch fruiting rate is high, fruit quality is also good; flower cluster fruit
Question 3: when to cut cherry trees, how to cut Cherry tree winter pruning in the fall after the fall of the leaves after 10 days to the spring germination before half a month or so can be carried out in the first month of the calendar year to complete the pruning of the best.
The main points of cherry tree winter pruning are: according to the basic tree shape, choose the appropriate tree shape (natural happy shape, small crown laxity shape can be); pruning is mainly to remove (cut off from the base) the back of the upright strong branches, over-dense branches, weak and thin branches, cross branches, overlapping branches, pests and diseases, etc., and to improve the canopy inside the hall of the light; to the main thinning, as far as possible to cut off the short.
In the young tree period, we should pay attention to pull open the angle of the main branch, ease the tree, early fruiting years.
Question 4: When to cut cherry trees 1. Pruning of cherry trees in the fruiting season
Under normal circumstances, cherry trees can enter the fruiting season after 7-8 years of planting. This period is characterized by a rapid rise in yield and a gradual decline in growth. The pruning of the fruiting period is mainly to adjust the tree structure, improve the light conditions, maintain the healthy tree, prolong the fruiting years. In the pruning process, attention should always be paid to the removal of weak branches, retaining strong branches, adjusting the balance between growth and results, to maintain a larger amount of new growth and the appropriate number of fruiting and nutritive branches, at the same time, should be updated to rejuvenate the aging ...
2. Sweet cherry tree shaping and pruning techniques
The main task of the young one-year old tree is to increase the branch long tree, shaping and expanding the crown, to take the carving buds and more branches, to promote the growth of the slow release of some of the non-thinning branches, and cultivate a small crown sparse layer shape tree shape. (1) Stemming: After planting, leave a stem height of 60-80 cm stem, sprouting below the stem height, 30 cm from the ground below the buds can be wiped out, 50 cm above the buds should be strengthened management, in order to cultivate the lower main branches. (2) winter pruning: on the middle trunk or main branch of the occurrence of the peak branches and inward branches ...
3. Pruning methods for three-year-old cherry trees
For the third year of young cherry trees, the main pruning task is to complete the spring crown shaping. In line with the principle of suppressing the strong and supporting the weak, suppressing the front and promoting the back, the use of single-axis extension pruning method to cultivate single-axis extension of the large fruiting main branch group and the main branch on the many single-axis extension of the bouquet of strong fruiting branches, to realize the early results of the early yield. To pay attention to maintain a good master-slave relationship, balance the tree, adjust the composition and distribution of branches. To differentiate the opening angle of the main branches. Summer pruning of three-year-old cherry trees should be in early July. This is the time of the year when big cherries...
Question 5: How to deal with cherry tree pruning parts How to prune cherry trees
2 Methods:Pruning small cherry treesPruning mature treesPruning is necessary to create good growing conditions for the cherry tree so that it can produce beautiful fruits every year. Small cherry trees should be pruned to a vase shape to allow light and air to circulate and spread around the branches. Dead branches and infected parts should be cleaned up over the next few years to keep the tree healthy and strong. See Step 1 to learn how to prune your cherry tree at all stages.
Method - 1
1 Sterilize and sharpen your pruning shears. Using dirty, dull pruning shears to wash and cut branches and leaves can make them infected with disease. Make sure your scissors are sharp so you don't damage branches when pruning. Take care to sterilize your pruning shears before each pruning of your tree. This may take a few extra minutes, but it's worth it to make sure you don't hurt your cherry tree while pruning. [1] To sterilize your pruning shears.
Mix up a 1 to 9 solution of bleach and water.
Dip your scissors in the solution.
Rinse them off with hot water.
Dry them with a clean towel.
2 Move 60-90 centimeters from the top of the tree. Determining the height of the middle trunk means cutting off from the top of the central trunk to promote the growth of lateral branches. It's important to do this within the first year or two after planting the tree so you can control the shape of its growth. Before setting the trunk, measure if it is tall enough. If the sapling is short, wait until it is at least 75 centimeters taller than when it was planted before setting the trunk. Waiting to set the trunk until the tree is already somewhat established will ensure that this doesn't damage the tree too much.
Set the trunk in the fall or winter, when the tree is still dormant. If you wait until spring, the tree will sprout. When you cut after the buds have sprouted, the energy going into the buds is wasted. Setting the trunk "before" germination allows the tree to use that energy to grow healthy branches.
Cutting at a 45 degree angle makes the tree less susceptible to disease and rot.
3 After a year, make a spiral scaffold. Spiral scaffolds are made up of side branches that extend from the tree. They provide structure and keep the shape of the tree balanced. The next winter you set the trunk, when it is dormant again, pick four sturdy, evenly spaced branches to make the first spiral scaffold.
Look for large branches at a 45- or 60-degree angle to the main trunk. These are the best branches. [2]
Choose four branches that are about 20 centimeters apart vertically, with the shortest branch about 45 centimeters above the ground.
Cut all four branches to 60 centimeters. Cut at an angle to remove 0.6 centimeters of bud; new buds will appear where you cut.
Trim off the remaining branches. Make the cuts flush with the main trunk so that only these branches are part of the spiral frame.
4 Have two secondary branches under each primary branch. Find two properly spaced, strong secondary branches to support them. Cut the remaining branches until they are flush with the base branch. This will help the tree focus its energy on those branches that will grow better fruit.
Question 6: How to prune a small cherry tree Peach tree pruning techniques
Winter pruning: short cut, thinning, long release, retraction
(1) short cut: the annual branch cut off a part of the short cut. Short cut branches under the cut must be left with leaf buds. The role of the short cut is to reduce the number of leaf buds and flower buds on the short cut branches, strengthen the growth of the short cut branches to produce new growth, reduce the site of branching, and enhance the branching ability.
Light truncation: cut the annual branch length of 15 or less, the next year the new shoots of weak growth potential, but the number of new shoots, more for the cultivation of medium, short, bouquet-shaped fruit branches. Or the strong fruiting branches after light short cutting, increase the number of results, control the growth of new shoots with.
Medium short cut: cut off the full length of the annual branches of 12, under the cut for the full buds, the next year's sprouting of new shoots of strong growth potential, the number of strong new shoots, mostly used for the main lateral branches to extend the branch pruning.
Heavy truncation: cut off the full length of the annual branch 23 ~ 34, cut off the buds under the poor degree of fullness, but pruning volume, so the next year's new shoots of growth potential is stronger, but the number of new shoots is less, more for the strong branch control pruning.
Extremely heavy truncation: cut the annual branch of the full length of 56 or more, the next year sprouting branches are weaker. This cutting method is mostly used in the development of branches, long fruiting branches to cultivate fruiting branch groups.
(2) Thinning Thinning the branches from the base is called thinning, also known as cutting thinning. Thinning can reduce the density of branches in the crown, improve the ventilation of the crown, so that the tree within the relative concentration of stored nutrients, to promote the growth of new shoots; thinning will be part of the wound above the inhibitory effect, the wound below the role of promotion. Thinning out the weak, diseased, long, overlapping and dense crowded shade useless branches, can leave the branches to play a role in promoting potential.
(3) long put on the annual branch is not cut, let the natural growth. Long release can make the branch to retain the most amount of buds, ease the growth potential of the next year's new growth. The growth potential is too strong for long fruiting branches or long fruiting branches for long release, can weaken the apical dominance, promote the formation of short and medium fruiting branches.
(4) retraction refers to the short cut of perennial branches, also known as reduction. Retraction can reduce the total length of the branch, so that nutrients and water supply is concentrated on the retained branches, to promote the growth of the lower branches, more favorable to the restoration of the tree. Its role is to improve the light conditions in the canopy, reduce the fruit parts, change the extension direction and angle of the extension branch, control the canopy, prolong the fruit life.
Problems to be noted in peach tree pruning
1. pruning branches of the cut should be smooth, and the cut buds into a 45-degree angle beveled, from the buds of the opposite side of the cut, beveled above the tip of the buds with the cut level, the lowest part of the beveled surface and the buds of the base flat, so that the wound surface of the cut is small, easy to heal, buds sprouted after the growth of fast. Thinning of the cut, cut at the branching point, and the dry level does not leave stumps.
2. In the larger branches and trunk pruning, can be used to divide the work method. First from the requirements of the saw kerf above 20 centimeters, from the branch under the direction of upward saw all the mouth, the depth of half the thickness of the branch, from above the branch saw, leaving a stump, and then from the saw kerf sawing off the stump, you can avoid branch splitting.
3. When sawing tree branches and trunks in order to prevent rain or disease invasion and rot, the saw kerf must be flat, with 20% copper sulfate solution to disinfect, and finally coated with a protective agent (protective wax, blending paint, etc.), to play the role of anticorrosion and anti-drying and to promote the role of healing.
(source cited "peach production key technology hundred questions and answers", China Agricultural Publishing House; "Farmer's Counsel" 2009.11
Summer pruning technology
(1) in addition to sprouting, wipe the buds in the leaf cluster period (3 ~ 5 cm) on the main branch, lateral branches on the back of the upper part of the main trunk and the large cut near the strong branch, extension branch cut buds competition buds are all wiped out. Go double buds to stay single buds, to dry pegs, disease and insect branches, waste buds and reduce the long fruit branches that have not sat fruit. The rootstock should be cut off as soon as possible. By removing buds and wiping buds, you can reduce the useless new shoots, concentrate nutrients, and make the branches left behind full of development, flower buds and leaf buds full. Wiping buds, in addition to budding can improve the canopy lighting conditions, greatly reducing the summer pruning workload and wounds caused by summer pruning branches.
(2) centering centering is easy to produce branches, peach tree itself, a large amount of secondary tops, a centering is more likely to cause excessive secondary tops, the canopy closed, now peach tree cultivation in addition to young tree shaping needs to be centering of the main lateral branches to extend the branch, the peach tree summer shearing is generally not advocated for centering of the new tops.
(3) Twisting in the new tip half lignification of the main branch, lateral branch extension branch near the competing branches, space can be used to become a lateral branch or large and medium fruiting branch group of strong long branch, upright branch, fruiting branch less or main lateral branch prone to day burning parts of the long branch twisting. ...... >>
Question 7: How to carry out cherry tree pruning Cherry tree winter pruning should not be too early to delay to close to budding is appropriate. In order to control branch growth, increase the amount of branches and leaves, accelerate the expansion of the crown, promote early results and young trees for summer pruning, can be carried out after the fruit, mainly thinning, that is, thinning out too dense, over-expansive branches, in order to adjust the structure of the tree, and promote the differentiation of flower buds.
Question 8: How to prune cherry trees? First of all, according to different planting methods, choose the appropriate tree shape.
The plant spacing of 2x4 meters, the use of fusiform pruning; plant spacing of 3x4 meters, the use of small crown sparse laminar pruning; plant spacing of 4x4 meters, the use of open-ended pruning; plant spacing of 1.5x3.5 meters, the use of one side of the tree shape pruning.
Cherry trees planted in the garden, mainly using the natural happy shape pruning.
Plastic pruning is mainly carried out in the winter dormant period (it is best to finish pruning 1 month before germination).
The main points of winter pruning of cherry trees are: thinning out the back of the upright branches, dense branches, weak branches, overlapping branches, cross branches, diseased branches, etc., to improve the light in the canopy. Not yet fruitful young trees, to pull the angle of the main branch, easing the tree; the amount of flowers too much tree, to appropriate thinning part of the flower buds, to prevent large and small annual results.
Question 9: How to prune cherry trees using happy shape tree shaping, similar to the peach tree. Now this season is mainly thinning out the back of the upright branches, too dense branches, cross branches, overlapping branches, disease and insect branches, etc., to improve the light in the inner hall of the tree crown.