There are always some restaurants that can't find a suitable location except the word local. Of course, the word "local" I said has nothing to do with the farmhouse music that people can associate in their minds at once, or the village banquet in clan villages and towns. No, these aren't. Native land, understood by sociological thinking, is the place where people grow up, and all your explicit behaviors and internal psychology come from here.

There is a famous small restaurant in Beijing, Yue Bin, the first individual restaurant in China. The small frontispiece hidden in Cui Hua Hutong is completely unnoticed and easily overlooked. This small restaurant, which has stood for more than 30 years by cooking Beijing home cooking, has become an important stop for many friends who come to Beijing to experience Beijing flavor. But I think it's good to welcome guests and the food tastes good. Five-silk tube, pot collapse tofu, dry-cooked yellow croaker and casserole tofu are all unambiguous, but seriously, they are not local tyrants enough. Deliberately to understand, it turned out to be too prosperous. Lunch and dinner always need to be booked. There are many diners, and everyone will leave after eating. When the boss is busy with bookkeeping and urging food, he doesn't have time to see if there are any regular customers to pay tribute. Even if the taste remains the same, it will immediately make people feel psychologically * * *, and the local feeling will no longer exist.

Local feelings? What's this word? Well, this is a word I made up myself, because I can't find another suitable word. I aim to show that this is a specific feeling in my heart.

Compared with Yue Bin, I think Fuxin Roast Duck Restaurant is a real local restaurant. It is hidden behind a tree, even if it is actually located on the roadside of Ping 'an Avenue, it has no sense of existence. The door of the restaurant is an old-fashioned aluminum sliding door (when I passed by two days ago, I found that the new clothes were repaired, but they were still simple aluminum doors and windows), which made people feel no sense of solemnity. Well, of course, you can also understand this as approachable. There is an old 14 inch color TV set on the indoor window sill, playing programs of unknown channels. There are several snowflakes from time to time. The boss is a middle-aged man, standing in the plywood counter in the style of 1980s and 1990s. The decoration in the shop is extremely simple, and the menu has been turned over and over for many years. There are only a few dishes, but from time to time it makes me want to eat.

It's not that its food is very distinctive, not even comparable to several enduring and popular dishes in Yue Bin, but it makes me feel very comfortable, so I don't need to hold it. Mu Shu pork, hot and sour soup, a bowl of soft rice, it's delicious. Besides, we can also see some life dramas that we haven't seen for many years: the old man comes in with goggles, sits down to order, and is also very picky. Don't put meat in eggplant, put more noodles in tomato noodles, throw an egg in it, don't have teeth today, add shredded potatoes and two cans of hot dew. The boss runs a variety of roads, but he can turn his back and carefully instruct the kitchen to add more noodles. The old man has no teeth today.

I thought this was a regular customer who had eaten the "king's meal", but I didn't expect it. It was really difficult to express my condolences to my boss when I checked out, but I got an unexpected response. "Don't laugh at him. His uncle is not easy. He has been fighting cancer for more than ten years. If you are wandering around, you will know when you see him riding a bike. It will be very awesome. " Yes, it's really a strong local flavor of old Beijing, so I can only run by myself, but my habit of protecting children is so authentic.

Sometimes, because of the intensified demolition, subway construction and commercial buildings, we suddenly don't understand who we really are. Maybe at this time, we should go to those local restaurants for dinner.