among the many exquisite Huizhou ancient buildings, I want to feel through my own travel. Let's take stock of and distinguish the following representative ancient villages in Huizhou:

11 Eternal Xanadu-Hualihong Village

12 Gathering of People-Flourishing Xidi

13 China Museum of Ancient Architecture and Art-Exquisite

14 Fresh and Free-Liveliness under the centralization of literature and art Tang Mo

15-Lonely Hidden Mouth

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Dali, Wuzhen and Hongcun are the places that I will visit repeatedly in China, which just represent the ancient city, ancient town and ancient village respectively. But only Hongcun often jumps out of my memory, so that I can still smell the fragrance of green seedlings in the rice fields next to the village in Beijing where there are many high-rise buildings.

When I first heard about Hongcun, it was the summer vacation of my freshman year. The color teacher took the children of the art department there to sketch. Therefore, when you come to the South Lake in Hongcun in summer, you will definitely see such a scene-

eyeful scenery, eyeful "paintings", eyeful art teachers and students, and joyful tourists mistakenly enter the "paintings".

Hongcun, located at the southern foot of Huangshan Mountain, is a peculiar "cow-shaped ancient village" built in the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty. Guhong village artificially irrigated the fields for fire prevention, created a precedent of bionics, built a wonderful artificial water system according to the mountain terrain, and made a living article about the "cow" shape. The water pit with nine twists and turns is the cow intestine, the moon marsh excavated by the spring eye is the cow stomach, the South Lake is the cow belly, and the houses on both sides of the cow intestine are the cow body.

The splendid Huizhou ancient buildings in Hongcun complement each other with the surrounding rural scenery, forming a smart landscape painting.

Many people haven't been to Hongcun, but they haven't "never met". In fact, its "Moon Marsh" has always appeared on stamps.

And this small bridge on the South Lake is the white stone bridge that Chow Yun Fat led his horse through at the beginning of Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon.

In 2111, Hongcun was listed on the World Cultural Heritage List by UNESCO.

I love Hongcun, of course, not only because of its spring dawn in the south lake, the reading in the academy, the wind and lotus in the moon marsh, the water in the cattle intestines, the beautiful scenery of the two streams, the ancient trees in front of the pavilion, and the sunset photos in Leigang ...

More because of its affection-warm human feelings!

"The traffic in different places, chickens and dogs hear each other ..... yellow hair hangs over their heads, and they enjoy themselves", and the carefree scene described in Tao Yuanming's Peach Blossom Garden is the truest portrayal of Hongcun.

I like Hongcun because it is a real village, an ancient village where villagers live and work normally. A village that is managed in a unified way but not commercialized in a unified way. A village where people, livestock and poultry are free from tourists.

when I went to Hongcun, there was a street at the entrance of the village that was not very "commercialized". There were simple restaurants, small supermarkets, specialty shops and breakfast shops. Besides, there were only houses in the whole village. Yes, only quiet houses and normal villagers! There is no noisy and noisy commercial promotion and hawking!

Many of the inns are also the houses of villagers' own families. Many bosses live on the first floor and tourists live on the second floor, but they are all quite exquisite and tidy small yards. There is a feeling of "five thousand years outside and five stars inside".

Eating is also in the small courtyard. Tell the boss what you want to eat, sit on the stone table and bench in the shade of the trees in the courtyard, and wait for the boss to serve you all kinds of seasonal farmhouse delicacies! Especially leisurely and comfortable!

When you get tired of going out for a stroll, you will often be stopped by your boss and enthusiastically serve you some fresh fruits and vegetables that have just been cut and washed.

in Hongcun, you can "experience local life" comfortably. You can eat, live and chat with the villagers, and you can learn about their daily life. During the day, you can get up early with them to herd cattle outside the village, go to the orchard and vegetable fields to pick fresh fruits and vegetables, chase and play with childish children, watch the white-haired grandmother skillfully hold the soles of her shoes, and at night, you can enjoy the cool with the villagers, chat and count the stars ...

Hongcun's night is simple and natural, without bars and karaoke, impetuous music and TV noise, only-voices, dogs barking and TV noise. Hongcun's night can bring back all childlike memories.

Just a reminder, friends who are afraid of the dark had better bring flashlights and don't wander around the inn at night. I still remember that I had dinner at the entrance of the village at dusk, and it was all dark after eating. I walked to the inn in the village in the dark.

walk into the alley of the village, my god! I can't see my fingers! The cell phone is dead, too. What's even more amazing is that the roadside is obviously full of people sitting at the door of the house and fanning their cattail leaves to enjoy the cool. I can clearly hear the villagers chatting and laughing, but I can't see anyone! ! ! I'm so scared! I had to say to myself: how far is it! How dark it is! So scary!

At this moment, many people on the roadside suddenly comforted me: "Girl, don't be afraid, we are all sitting at the door!" " "Go straight ahead and turn left!" "Don't be afraid! Do you need us to take you there? " "Come on, I have a light here, I'll take a picture of you." "I'll take a picture of you, too." "Girl, are you hot? Let me give you a fan! " ......

In this way, the villagers' warm words are like a game of "pass the parcel". Every time I walk to a door, they talk to me to ease my fear of darkness. But whoever has a flashlight, will be a family, with my footsteps, rhythmically turn on the light for me in turn, paving a bright road for me!

so I continued the warmth and light they gave from door to door and returned to the inn safely. Over the years, every time I think of that night, I feel infinite warmth and gratitude.

In Hongcun, I slept soundly, and I was woken up by chickens and birds every morning.

and if you are as lucky as I am, and can meet the drizzle overnight, please get up when it is dawn, go for a walk in the village, and feel the morning of Hongcun with your heart. Please believe me-that kind of quietness has a breathtaking beauty!

in Hongcun, I especially like to watch the smoke rising in the whole village with a happy face as soon as I arrive at the meal. I think kitchen smoke is fragrant. That is the most real "human fireworks."

Therefore, the charm of Hongcun is the same as that of Dali, which lies not in "swimming" but in "staying quietly". If a shepherd boy plays the flute and rides an old cow across the river bank, I would like to sit here and forget my age.

Hongcun's love is the equal and free "great love" between strangers, the "care" like the spring breeze, and the trust between people. Hongcun doesn't make people feel bound and uncomfortable in the high walls of Huizhou. On the contrary, she is gentle, simple, kind and leisurely, so you can't help but want to get close and understand.

in comparison, Xidi is much colder, but it is much more lively.

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Xidi is not far from Hongcun. It is also the representative of Huizhou ancient architecture art in Ming and Qing dynasties and a treasure house of humanities.

There are not only exquisite archways, brick carvings, wood carvings and stone carvings, but also pieces of deep house courtyards. The countless couplets on those ancient houses are splendid and breathtaking.

Xidi's archway, Zoumalou, Taoli Garden and Xiyuan Garden, patio and embroidered building ... are naturally to be seen. Any house is a profound textbook of ancient architecture. Unfortunately, such exquisite mansions are basically uninhabited, only for tourists to visit, and merchants sell some cultural goods and tourist souvenirs.

There are many villagers in Hongcun and many merchants in Xidi.

fortunately, fortunately, there is no bar here!

I looked at the heavily guarded ancestral temple, the solemn memorial archway and the dark and high embroidered building, and felt a little distant, "the indifference of officialdom" and "the ruthlessness of businessmen".

This often reminds me of those women in the high wall who can't get out at the front door but can't get in at the second door. It also makes me feel that there is a kind of heaviness and depression behind the prosperity in Xidi. So I wandered around for less than three hours and fled in a hurry.

In Xidi, I wanted to be a "student" piously and pay homage to the craftsmen who built exquisite houses. In the end, I found that I was just reduced to a "tourist", smelling the decline of officials and businessmen for a visually flashy but depressing stimulus.

So, I never went back to Xidi.

If we must personify people, I think Hongcun is like a gentle daughter of a squire's family, and Xidi is like a middle-aged magistrate who sits on the edge.

After that, I went to Chengkan to try to find something different.

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Chengkan, located in the southern foothills of Huangshan Mountain, is adjacent to Shexian County in the east, and is connected with a hidden mouth in the south, with Xixi South in the west and Fuxi Township in the north, is known as "the first village in the south of the Yangtze River" and "the treasure house of ancient architecture art in China".

In the first two months, I blessed the G21 Summit with an ingenious way of "basking in autumn", which made Chengkan Village a hit on the Internet. Many stars, such as Brigitte Lin, Zhao Liying and Wang Han, have also been here to participate in this "basking in autumn" activity which has been passed down for thousands of years.

Liu Haisu, a master of Chinese painting in China, once said, "To climb Mount Huangshan, you have to go to Chengkan."

Huizhou houses are the best in the world, while Chengkan houses are the best in Huizhou.

I know Chengkan. It has been over 11 years. But it was only this year that I had the opportunity to "get in touch" with her.

If Hongcun is like a gentle daughter of a squire's family, Xidi is like a middle-aged magistrate. What about Chengkan? I think she is like a Shanghai woman wearing a cheongsam and holding an oil-paper umbrella to visit relatives.

the name "Chengkan" is taken from the Book of Changes. The whole village is located according to the eight diagrams geomantic theory of "Yin (Kan), Yang (Presentation), the unity of two qi and the unity of heaven and man". It is also called "Eight diagrams village" and "Longxi", with mountains and waters, and five streets and ninety-nine lanes in Erzhen, which is exquisite and elegant, just like a maze. There are more than 151 historic buildings in the village, including Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, among which 21 are national key cultural relics protection units.

The streets and lanes in Chengkan are all paved with granite strips, and the houses on both sides are row upon row, criss-crossing, orderly arranged, with blue walls and tiles, staggered heights, black and white, elegant and delicate, long streets and short lanes, and jagged teeth.

But the streets and lanes are much narrower than those in Xidihong Village. In some places, if two people meet face to face, they have to lean sideways to pass. However, even if it is tight, there are exquisite brick-carved drains on the bluestone pavement, and there are beautiful landscapes at the corners of each wall to surprise tourists.

On both sides of the main road, there are slightly lower parallel paths, which were usually walked by servants and servants in those days, so as to distinguish between superiors and inferiors. Some main roads are also paved with herringbone tiles, meaning "people are on top", which is the same as the road design concept in Suzhou "Lingering Garden".

Different from the narrow streets and lanes, the public activity areas in Chengkan are all open. For example, as soon as you enter the lotus pond at the entrance of the village, it is open and stretched, which makes people feel relaxed and happy from a distance, but you can't leave it when you look closely, because in the vast expanse, countless exquisite details are integrated, and the scenery is changed step by step, everywhere, and people are in the painting.

This lotus pond, with mountains and rivers, blue tiles and white walls and different scenery all year round, has attracted countless photographers from all over the country. They said that every time they come to see it, it is different, and every time they come, they can get different beauty.

Now the residents of Chengkan are changing into businesses, selling local specialties, three meals a day, or wood carving skills in ancient houses, and some collecting fresh blueberries and squeezing them into juice to sell to tourists. They are all natural and taste really excellent.

This makes the whole Chengkan bustling and lively, but it is different from the arty noise of Xidian tourists. Most of the quaint shops in Chengkan are quiet, and there are clear birds singing overhead from time to time. The mottled ancient wall shows the patterns of modernist works of art more and more under the background of sunshine.

Perhaps it is this vibrant popularity, mixed with the graceful charm of "flowers and birds painting in the south of the Yangtze River" dispersed in the air, that makes me think of Chengkan as a Shanghai woman wearing a cheongsam and holding an oil-paper umbrella, exquisite and exquisite, with ancient poetry and modern vitality, slowly coming to you, elegant and beautiful, with a long-lasting ancient charm.

The reason why she is said to be visiting relatives is that this kind of agile charm seems to belong not only to Chengkan, but to be "imported", which transcends the era strictly controlled by Cheng Zhu's Neo-Confucianism, so she is more like "going home", "visiting relatives" and "visiting relatives", and always has a good mood of leisure, happiness and a little joy.

There are several differences between Chengkan and other Huizhou ancient villages:

1. Chengkan is a three-story Huizhou ancient wooden structure, which is unique, while other ancient villages have two floors. This makes Chengkan more exquisite in housing structure design and spatial layout, and also reflects the developed economic, cultural and educational level here in that year.

2. Chengkan is more like a "water town in the south of the Yangtze River" than other ancient Huizhou villages, and incorporates many southern garden design concepts. Not only is it more compact and elegant in architectural appearance, but it also has obvious Suzhou garden style in the design of gardens, lotus ponds, stone bridges and other public places. The ancient courtyard wall beside the lotus pond can even directly see the shadow of "Humble Administrator's Garden".

3. The ancient buildings in Ming and Qing Dynasties are rich in variety and unique in style. Chengkan is home to pavilions, terraces, buildings, pavilions, bridges, wells, shrines, clubs and folk houses with different styles. Exquisite brick carving, wood carving, stone carving and painting techniques reflect the antiquity, grandeur, beauty and elegance of Huizhou ancient architecture art to the fullest. "China Museum of Ancient Architecture Art" deserves its name.

in particular, the door cover of the shipai building in Luo Huijiong's residence (Luo Yinghe's official residence); Luo Huibing House (commonly known as Shizhu Hall) has a wooden archway door cover, sumeru, a tall living room and a single-column spiral staircase; Luo Changming's courtyard fish pond; Luo Jiying's house is carved and carved; Luolailong house pig trough patio; Dark-walled stairs of nursing homes; Wang Gui Xiuzhai Ceramic Water House; Huanxiu Bridge Water Pavilion; The stone pavilion in Lingshanling, as well as the sloping doors, iron doors, beautiful reclining seats in the balcony, window cover boards, wood and moon beams, shuttle, painting, etc., are unique in the country.

It is in this ancient house that I see an irresistible desire for "equality and freedom".

A three-story wooden building, the higher the floor, the lower the space, and the worse the lighting. All the people who live in it are unmarried ladies and ladies. At that time, Huizhou merchants traveled all over the world, gathered a lot of wealth, and returned to their hometowns to build these deep curtilage courtyards. However, the high walls also became the cages for women who bound them. Like canaries, they were locked in the high walls all their lives, with their doors closed and their doors closed, and they used their lives and love to make room for their souls to be free.

Although it may be a great blessing for weak women to have such a place to live in the war-torn era, I would rather they ran and sang freely in the village like boys without binding their feet with golden lotus.

and what about those men? Naturally, they also shouted for "freedom and equality" in another way. You see, the building regulations of Baolunge are everywhere.