transportation: it takes two and a half hours from Huaihua to Fenghuang automobile, and nearly 1 and a half hours from Jishou to Huaihua. It takes nearly 2 hours for the train to travel from Huaihua to Jishou. The road conditions are good, but there are many cars from Jishou to Fenghuang, while there are few cars from Huaihua to Fenghuang. At the same time, we need to look at the time when the train stops in Huaihua or Jishou. If the stop time is too early, we can only wait in the waiting room. I originally bought a ticket to Huaihua, but later found that the time to arrive in Huaihua was less than 4 am, so I made up the ticket to Jishou.
Accommodation: Coming from Shiban Street in the old city, facing Hongqiao, the street near Tuojiang River on the left hand side is a relatively new inn. This street is called Beifang Street, and the famous Tiaotiaoyan and Beimen Tower are at the end of this street. The old city is watching the bar across Tiaoyan Tuojiang River. On the right hand side, the street near Tuojiang River is an earlier inn and bar, which seems to be called Huilongge Street. The Tuojiang Family Inn and Wanderer Bar are on this street. If possible, you'd better choose a room with a river view. I chose the inn in Beifang Street, because Beifang Street not only has rooms with river view, but also is relatively quiet, because this street is full of inns and there is no bar, and the other side of the street is the wall of the ancient city. When you open the window, you can overlook the scenery of Tuojiang River, as well as the red lanterns in the inn and bar opposite, and the fireworks and firecrackers lit at the crowd gathering point of the North Gate Tower. One more thing, many of the newly opened inns here are wooden houses, which feel much warmer in winter. Besides, the inn here is relatively small, so it feels very good to have time to sit around the stove and chat with the innkeeper. The inn I entered is called Qilin Inn. The boss's surname is Rao, Han Chinese, his wife is Tujia, his son is in college, and his daughter is admitted to college. Boss Rao knows a lot about local customs and stayed for three nights again, which was very good. I live on the third floor, and their house on the second floor is the best. Someone reserved three rooms, but they didn't arrive until 11: 31 in the evening, and they didn't call. At that time, more than 11 passengers came to ask if there was a room. The boss was also very anxious, but he still kept the house until 12: 31, when the guests from Hubei arrived. This is also credibility. In Phoenix, as in Zhangjiajie before, you can feel the simple folk customs of Xiangxi people. Kirin Inn Tel: 1743-3227438.
Attractions: At present, there are six scenic spots in Fenghuang Ancient City that use pass (bundled sales), namely: Shen Congwen's former residence, Xiong Xiling's former residence, Yangjia ancestral hall, the second floor of Hongqiao, Dongmen Tower and boating on Tuojiang River. The price is per person in 86 yuan. At first, I was disgusted with bundling, but after reading these six scenic spots, I felt it was worth it. The main natural attractions of Phoenix are Tuojiang River Water, Tuojiang Boat and Diaojiaolou on both sides of Tuojiang River, and the rest are worldly wisdom. Fortunately, although there are many tourists during the Spring Festival, except for boating on the Tuojiang River, my wife and I all enjoy the tour guide service exclusively. Although each scenic spot is small, the tour guide service is very thoughtful and polite, because there are not many people, and we can ask some questions in depth. The Yangjia Ancestral Temple is said to be the descendants' mansion of Yang Jiajiang. Because the county government used to work here, it has been preserved, and there are two columns of slogans at the entrance of the ancestral temple that can be clearly argued. This ancestral hall is in the style of Miao people. Not far from Xiong Xiling's former residence, there is a Liu Dapao batik, so you should go and have a look. Whether you buy it or not, it's worth talking to the old cannon. Although I have few artistic cells, I bought one. Mr. Liu is very straightforward. Even if you are interested in buying again, he will not recommend expensive products for others to buy. The second floor of Hongqiao is a good place to take pictures. We stayed there for an hour, and no one came up. It felt very good (maybe it was raining at that time). There was a teahouse on the second floor, but the Spring Festival holiday was over. We found a broken chess in the box of a teahouse and played two games. Later, we came to the team, and we reluctantly went downstairs.
In addition to the scenic spots in the ancient city of Fenghuang, we also visited Shujiatang (Tujia village) and Laodong village (Miao village). Shujiatang people claim to be descendants of Yang Jiajiang, and the content mentioned is of course unofficial history, and there are many loopholes. Let's just listen to it. Consciously, our tour guide, a 74-year-old gentleman (all young people have gone to play for the New Year), is explaining the patterns on a set of four window frames, and the explanations for Yu Qiao's farming and reading are: Jiang Ziya, Liu Hai (chopping firewood), Cowherd (Weaver Girl) and Zhang Sheng (jumping over the wall and meeting Cui Yingying). It's interesting. Shujiatang is dirty, and people who love cleanliness should not go. Going to Laodong Village is a one-day tour, organized by the village committee, with 1 people in 88 yuan, including round-trip transportation and lunch. First, it takes 31 minutes by car, then 51 minutes by boat (walking through the canyon), and finally it takes 2 hours to climb the mountain. The mountain road is a little difficult, especially after rain and rain. People who can't bear hardships had better not try, because there is no retreat. After playing in the village, take a bus back to Phoenix for 2-3 hours. However, it took us more than five hours. Because the road was frozen, people had to get off and walk in many places, although the car was equipped with snow chains. There are also many unofficial history in the village, but they are not systematic and there are many contradictions, which shows the lack of management. One of the dishes I ate was fried tofu with bacon (fresh tofu, which may have been slightly fried in oil), and the tofu was delicious. The simplicity of the old cave people is very touching, even though there are many loopholes in their arrangement.
Generally speaking, the scenery of Phoenix is mainly along the Tuojiang River and in the ancient city, which is a system combining natural scenery with local conditions and customs. The surrounding scenic spots, natural scenery in general, and the development of local conditions and customs is far from enough. In the city, compared with Lijiang, the atmosphere that attracts people to stay for a long time is much worse. Many small shops in Lijiang are integrated with workshop sales. People can not only buy things, but also enjoy the production process and even participate in it in person, but Phoenix does not. The pollution of the Tuojiang River is also serious. The water from Tiaotiaoshi to Hongqiao is very clear, but when it reaches Hongqiao, the water flowing into the Tuojiang River from a small stream is very dirty, which makes the water of the Tuojiang River after crossing Hongqiao become much turbid. There is also the mismatch between the new buildings along the Tuojiang River and the original buildings, which shows that there are still big problems in the planning of the ancient city of Fenghuang.
In view of this, visitors are advised to stay in Phoenix for 2-3 days, and then go to Zhangjiajie to enjoy the natural beauty if they have time.
eat: I highly recommend the old house, which is cheap and good. The only drawback: in the tourist season, you have to wait when you go. Once I couldn't wait. I went to the old street restaurant by the river, but no one paid attention to me. I went to the black boy restaurant again, only to find that the food tasted bad and the price was high. For example: 1 yuan/cup of glutinous rice wine in the old house, 3 yuan/cup of black boy; Scrambled eggs with wild onions in the old house 6 yuan, black boy 15 yuan. The three famous dishes in the old house are chicken, duck and fish. I suggest you try one at a time so as not to spoil the taste. In order to taste everything, I went to eat at 11 o'clock in the evening, and there were even people later than me. Breakfast was recommended, but later it was found to be so-so, because it meant accommodation, and its catering was probably so-so. Opposite Heizi, there is a very good breakfast shop whose name I didn't remember. At the door, there is a sign "Consumer Trustworthy Store". The porridge, rice noodles, soybean milk and pies there are very good. The porridge and soybean milk need to be served by ourselves, and there are many people.
In a word, Phoenix is still worth visiting. If you have enough time, you can play with other places in Xiangxi.