Hello!

The characteristics of Beijing snacks are unique. The biggest difference from snacks in other regions is that some of them are taken from the people, then selected by the royal family as court snacks, and then scattered from the court to the people. This process is unique.

Let's talk about it from several aspects:

First, local snacks in Beijing has obvious national characteristics

Beijing has a capital history of more than 3,111 years and has long been the political, economic and cultural center of the country.

Italian Kyle? Poirot praised Beijing as the "richest city" in the 3rd century. "There are many households in the city ... all of them have luxurious houses and huge rooms ... everything is imported into the crowd, which is like an endless stream".

It is also said: "No other cities in the world can compare with those who import huge foreign objects and everything into this city." Beijing, one of the six ancient capitals of China, especially after it became the capital city in Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, people of all ethnic groups gathered here one after another, bringing their own national flavor food.

Especially in the Yuan Dynasty and the Qing Dynasty, Mongolians and Manchus brought ethnic food to Beijing after people ruled the Central Plains.

The Yuan Empire is a big empire spanning Europe and Asia. Kublai Khan, who launched a war of foreign aggression and "only knew how to bend a bow and shoot a big eagle", was born in a nomadic nationality, was good at riding and shooting, and acted quickly in combat. In the army of Jin Ge Tiema, it is not suitable for intensive cooking.

The soldiers turned their helmets upside down to hold water and put it on the fire. It was very quick and convenient for them to rinse the mutton that was slaughtered by people and then simply add seasoning to eat it. Finally, it evolved into instant-boiled mutton that was popular in Beijing.

We also brought milk tea with cheese as the raw material and flour tea with oily milk skin as the tea.

According to the Yanjing Folk Food Materials, in the year of Jiaqing Guiyou (1813), Shuoting wrote the words of Zhuzhi: "Milk tea has a unique beauty, and cheese is like ice soaked teeth.

The name Kara is black, and a penny buys a cup of tea. " Original note: "The milk tea shop sells only cheese, and the rest uses milk as tea, which is called milk tea, and the oily milk skin as tea, which is called flour tea.

boiling tea is called Kara teh tarik, and Kara is Mongolian. " There is also a kind of tea that cooks brown rice with soup, which is called children's tea. "Its method began in Mongolia, and scholars imitated it."

During the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty, the capital moved from Nanjing to Beijing, and the Imperial Guards, whose ancestral home was on both sides of the Yangtze River, retired and settled in Beijing. Farmers and businessmen who moved the capital to Beijing brought southern rice planting skills and cooking methods for making rice cakes, and snacks made from rice came into being in Beijing.

Later, it was borrowed from * * *, transplanted into * * * * snacks, and became a special * * * food.

Manchu snacks also came to Beijing after the Qing soldiers entered the customs, especially after the capital was Beijing. The typical variety, such as Saqima, had to be cut and coded, and "cut" Manchu was Saqifei, and "code" was the wooden wall, so the first two words were taken as Saqima.

Some people say that Beijing snacks are a colorful picture in Beijing's historical picture book. Now, as Xiao Fuxing, a Beijing writer, said, "Most of them originated from the flag bearer", it is believed that Beijing snacks mainly originated from the imperial meals of the Qing Dynasty.

According to textual research, inby, pea yellow, minced meat biscuits, and Xiaowotou really flowed into the people from the imperial dining room of the Qing Dynasty.

when it comes to Beijing snacks, you can't help but mention * * * * * * snacks.

According to Ms. Ma Jing, who lives in niujie and has a good knowledge of * * * food culture, in the second year of Tang Yonghui (651), marked by the first * * * envoy meeting Tang Gaozong in Chang 'an, Tang Dou, the * * religion was introduced to China, and then a large number of businessmen went to China to do business, deal in jewelry and medicinal materials, and brought spices in food seasonings, such as cardamom, pepper, fennel and cinnamon.

As a result of Genghis Khan's massive expedition to the west in the Yuan Dynasty, hundreds of thousands of followers of * * * and Persians were forced to move eastward, and settled in China, and niujie, Beijing was one of the places where they settled.

* * * * * food also spread to Beijing, as evidenced by the large number of * * * food collected in Eating Meals by Hu Sihui in Yuan Dynasty.

*** compatriots are hardworking, intelligent and full of creativity.

While forming their own national food culture, they are good at absorbing the essence of the cooking culture of their brothers and creating a food culture different from other ethnic groups, among which snacks are the treasures.

the Qing court's discriminatory policy against * * * resulted in the poverty and lack of culture in niujie, and in order to make a living, it also formed the professional characteristics of * * * "two knives and eight ropes".

However, in order to make a living, the craft is becoming more and more sophisticated, and the management is becoming more and more savvy, and there are special snacks that are unconventional and competitive.

Due to the generation-to-generation, there have also been some unique phenomena of Beijing snacks, such as "sheep's head horse", "bean sauce Zhang", "belly-exploding stone" and "cut cake Yang".

*** snacks greatly enrich Beijing snacks, and form a pattern that Beijing-style snacks are mainly * * * snacks.

Of course, Beijing snacks also have other ethnic snacks.

For example, fried liver, stewed small intestine and lard rice cakes in Han snacks are also very distinctive.

There are also some snack varieties related to Beijing becoming the venue of the Imperial Examination. For example, Tang Mutton, a Shaoxing guest who entered the Beijing Examination in Xianfeng years, opened a Pearl Zhai in the north of the south exit of Shengou outside Qianmen to serve Tang Mutton because he was not filial.

Han food like soup and mutton, and Wang Zhihe stinky tofu.

This unique phenomenon in Beijing is not found in other cities.

Since the reform and opening-up, it has become a trend for all directions to gather in Beijing.

For example, the amorous feelings of the Dai people, Tibetan plateau foods, roasted whole sheep, kebabs of mutton and hand-grabbed meat in the western regions of Xinjiang, and Korean ancient barbecue foods have all appeared in the streets and alleys of Beijing and become part of Beijing-style snacks.

The gathering of ethnic flavor foods in Beijing snacks is not so much the development of cooking itself as the frequent activities of social communication. It is better to say that the ethnic flavor foods on the streets of Beijing now are the expression of the centripetal force of all ethnic groups, and 56 ethnic groups love Beijing, which is the internal reason for the development of ethnic snacks in Beijing.

Second, local snacks in Beijing has obvious local customs and culture

Beijing has a long history, and the life of old Beijingers is also colorful.

The customs and customs of old Beijingers are almost always related to snack varieties, thus injecting a strong local color into Beijing snack culture.

There are many traditional festivals in China, and Beijing is no exception.

We all pay attention to what food we eat on festivals and festivals, and refer to the height of "courtesy" to understand it.

If you want to eat "flat food" on New Year's Day, it is dumplings.

beginning of spring should use hot water to scald noodles and sesame oil to make a double cake. When eating, two pieces should be laid flat, put in cakes and vegetables, roll them up and eat them from beginning to end.

Cake dishes are very particular. You should use green just-pointed croissants and sweet noodle sauce, and add shredded cooked meat into the cake. Or eat "stir-fried vegetables", stir-fried or mixed with bean sprouts and dried vermicelli, and more useful are spinach and leeks, day lily, fungus and other stir-fried vegetables.

Green vegetables are meant to keep the beautiful spring scenery and send good luck, so eating spring cakes is called "biting spring".

Eating rice cakes in the first month is good luck. Liu Ruoyu's History of the Ming Palace in the Ming Dynasty also said: "On the second day of February, all families use millet-flour jujube cakes to fry them in oil, or use noodles and sparse stalls as pancakes, which is called' Xunchong'.

On March 18th, when Dongyue Temple was worshipping incense, we ate roasted bamboo shoots chicken, cold cakes, steamed glutinous rice noodles, and added sugar and chopped sesame seeds, that is, we ate Ba Ye. " In Shi Xuan's "Legacy of Old Beijing" in the Ming Dynasty, it was recorded: "The officials of the Beijing Dynasty gave zongzi during the Dragon Boat Festival, and Chongyang gave cakes." In the third year of Tongzhi (1864), the poem Du Men Za Yong, which was engraved by Jia Zi with Hua Zhai, contained Wang Jiacheng's words about moon cakes and flower cakes: "Red and white hair is turned to make fine, and gifts are given all over the capital in the Mid-Autumn Festival." "The Mid-Autumn Festival is just too close to Chongyang, and the flower cake is busy everywhere.

With double layers of jujube chestnuts on the face, you will be proud of Liu Lang. " There is also a book that says: "Before the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month, red dates were smashed and soaked, and porridge with japonica rice, walnuts, chestnuts and water chestnut was added to the eighth day as' Laba porridge'." The above information provides the scene of what snacks to eat at any festival in Beijing, which is answered by Confucius in The Analects of Confucius. Discussion on "Don't eat from time to time" in the chapter of the rural party.

This custom of "not eating from time to time" is even manifested in one day. According to Mr. Zhang Jiangzai's Historical Materials of Yanjing Folk Food, it is recorded that "almond tea, bean curd paste, tea soup, cut cake and bean curd brain are sold in the streets every morning, bean dregs cake, steamed bean curd, bean porridge and old tofu are sold in the afternoon, and hard flour cakes and tea cakes are sold at night. In fact, there are many varieties that are unique to this land, such as mutton hotpot.

In the 18th year of Guangxu (1892), Yan Chenkun, a native of Tongxiang, Zhejiang, who once lived in Beijing, wrote a poem "Reminiscing about Kyoto", and compared it with the south: "Remembering that the winter windows of Kyoto are airtight, and all kinds of flavors melt in a small kettle around the stove, unlike here, where the wind is full and the hot charcoal is poisonous to cherry blossoms." Here, he wrote about the fun of reunion of relatives and friends in a sealed cabin to eat hot pot.

With the development of instant-boiled mutton hotpot, the variety of its raw materials is not limited to mutton, nor is it limited to eating it only in winter.

Hot pot has also been greatly improved. On the basis of hot pot, a fountain hot pot integrating hot pot and roast has been added, which is popular in Beijing, indicating that cooking utensils have developed with the progress of science and technology and promoted the progress of snack cooking culture.

Hotpot hotpot is popular and has become a major feature of Beijing.

Different ethnic groups living in Beijing have different eating customs in sacrificial activities, weddings and funerals.

If the Mongolian people offer sacrifices to their ancestors, they should fry the yellow rice with butter and store it in a shallow birch bowl, which is called "Lala 'er". Manchu ancestors offered walnut cakes and hibiscus cakes, and they also made yellow and white "thimble cakes" with yellow wheat and Jiang rice noodles. * * * Wedding and funeral receptions should eat oil incense fried with flour. Wedding oil incense is sweet, smaller, and funeral oil incense is big, which is fried with salt.

In short, Beijing snacks came into being with folk customs, reflecting its unique locality.

The locality of Beijing snacks is also manifested in the form of eating. For example, after autumn, it is necessary to eat instant-boiled mutton and roasted beef.

Old Beijingers eat roast beef under the iron grill to loosen firewood, roast it and eat it themselves. When eating, they stand on one foot and put one foot on the bench, showing their unique boldness and boldness.

"Du Men Za Yong" records: "The barbecue tastes delicious in winter, and there was a big wine jar in front of it.

It's best to roast cattle with tender meat, and get drunk and burn knives in snowy days. " ("burning knife" is the name of wine.

) According to Mr. Jin Shoushen, the big wine jar used to sell bowls of wine with black leather horseshoe bowls, which was quite poetic and ancient.

In Hundred Chants of Food in the Old Capital, the scene of eating barbecue is very vivid: "The thick smoke makes you cry, and the firewood makes you drunk."

The dish is full of raw meat, and it's like being addicted to barbarians. " It can be described vividly, and the words are empty.

The selling culture of Beijing snacks is as local as Beijing snack culture.

In order to sell their snacks quickly, people who buy and sell snacks, many varieties are making and shouting at the same time, which has a beautiful rhyme.

For example, a street vendor selling hard flour cakes in the middle of the night sends them to the residents' courtyard through the cold wind in winter.

some people describe it as: "the bobo moves skillfully along the street, and the sound is loud and clear through the lamp window, but it is hard to spread the night, which surprises the dream of a pair of mandarin ducks." In the streets and alleys of Beijing, there are many snack stalls selling steamed buns. While uncovering the cage cover, they shouted: "Just cooked-hot to eat". Through steaming smoke, the information about just cooked was introduced to passers-by to attract customers to buy. Some people wrote this scene in poems: "There are the most kinds of buns, and the sound of new drawers appears in the pot.

Don't go back to Han when the meat is sweet and salty. How about a few flavors? " The hawking sound of Beijing snacks is fluent and melodious, which evokes many people's childhood memories and unique nostalgia for their native land, and stimulates people's love for Beijing. However, due to the different times and the change of sales methods, the hawking cry has become a rare history.

Third, the unique artistry of Beijing snacks

The national and local characteristics of Beijing snacks are also reflected in the craftsmanship of making snacks. For example, the sesame seed cake of Beijing snacks is a popular food, crispy and delicious, and has won the favor of the masses for many years.

Its production requirements are very high, for example, the ratio of flour to sesame sauce should be appropriate, and more sesame sauce is bitter, while less sesame sauce is not fragrant; The thickness of the dough and the degree to which the yeast is distributed according to different seasons are all particular.

The qualified baked wheat cake is neat in appearance, yellow in color and crisp in taste, and must have more than 21 layers inside after cutting.

Therefore, you can't do it well without skills and experience. Cooking skills are a process of long-term accumulation of experience and deposition of cooking culture.

Another example is Baishui Yangtou in Beijing, which is very particular about the selection of materials. In those days, only 21 sheep-headed horses were sold every day.

He personally went to the slaughterhouse to select the sheep's head which must be white hair. The age of the sheep is strict, about one and a half years old.

after you come back, wash inside and outside, pull out the tongue of the lamb, brush it with a brush, and cook it according to the degree of tenderness.

salt and pepper should be refined with clove, pepper, salt, etc., fried until yellow, ground into fine powder, and put into a container made of ox horn, which is not easy to get wet and smell.

when selling, use a big curved knife to cut the sheep's head meat, and each piece of meat should be skinned.

When selling sheep's head meat, there were many onlookers, competing to see his skill in using a piece of blade meat and operation.

Sheep's head meat tastes excellent, winning the appreciation of the people and cultural celebrities.

It is recorded in "Miscellaneous Poems on Yanjing Snacks": "In October, Yanjing is cold and windy, and the sheep's head is on the market with endless flavor.

The salt is sprinkled like snow, and it is thinly cut into paper. " This requires a very high skill. According to Chen Liansheng, a snack expert and deputy general manager of Beijing Xiangda Catering Group Company (formerly manager of Nan Laishun), it is a pity that this skill has not been inherited by anyone at present.

Coincidentally, the pig's head meat in Beijing Han people is a snack cooked and smoked, but in Beijing it is not called pig's head meat, but smoked fish.

Its slicing skills are also superb, as evidenced by a poem: "A pig's head is not called smoked fish, but it is cut into pieces like paper by skillful hands.

It's so hot that you can chew it, and the sunset red cabinet takes the streets. " Because the producer who sells this snack carries a red cabinet every day at sunset, he shouts smoked fish and walks the streets, so there is a saying that "the sunset red cabinet walks the streets."

There is a poem about pies in "Hundred Poems on Food in the Old Capital": "Living in Chang 'an is not enough to worry about, but the food for the common people is all you can ask for.

Up to now, it has passed in front of Coal Market Street, and there is still a pie week. " It's about the gathering hall opened on the street of the coal market outside Qianmen, which is famous for making pies. The shopkeeper Zhou Xiaoting was honored as "Pie Week" because of his excellent pies.

In the original "Pie Week", the feeding requirements for pies were extremely strict. The fresh and tender parts of fresh beef should be chopped with pure scallion, and the meat should be chopped with a knife.