The food gang and the business gang have always been intertwined. The so-called "hometown friendship, series with the gang" guild hall appeared, and its restaurant opened. Before the Opium War, Ningbo merchants had built Siming Guild Hall in Shanghai outside the small north gate. Later, Siming Club became the largest club in Shanghai, which resulted in the rise of Ningbo cuisine in Shanghai. It mainly depends on the development of Ningbo commercial gangs and their clubs. Of course, the advocacy of Ningbo cuisine and food culture by scholars living in Shanghai is also one of the reasons. After the opening of Shanghai, Ningbo businessmen from Ningbo Gang entered Shanghai and became an important force in Shanghai's economic development. Ningbo is close to Shanghai. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Ningbo had a population of more than 411,111 in Shanghai. With the development of Ningbo merchants in Shanghai, Ningbo cuisine also entered Shanghai. During the Guangxu period of Qing Dynasty, there were Ningbo restaurants in Shanghai. Ningbo cuisine is rich in seafood. Unlike other cuisines, it is famous for its yellow croaker soup, braised turtle, fried eel paste and clam soup. Shanghai Yongbang Restaurant is named "Zhuangyuan Building", such as Yingji Zhuangyuan Building, Yongjiang Zhuangyuan Building, Siming Zhuangyuan Building and so on. Now the Yongjiang Zhuangyuan Building in Shanghai was founded in 1938. The operator Fang Runxiang and the famous chef Jin Yingxiang are both from Ningbo. Its dishes include rock sugar soft-shelled turtle, pot-cooked river eel, yellow croaker soup and Xinfeng eel, all of which are authentic Ningbo tastes. There are many people who eat yellow croaker in Ningbo cuisine, among which yellow croaker soup and moss vegetable dragging yellow croaker are the most famous. In addition, the dew dish is peeled and roasted, which is also a traditional Ningbo cuisine, and it is made by stewing fish, peeled pork legs and rotten milk with low fire. Later, Ningbo's famous dishes were stacked, and there were many seafood. Whenever the fishing season in the East China Sea was booming, the shrimps, soldiers and crabs in Shanghai would all be fat and attractive. Among them, the cabbage soup with wild large yellow croaker has won the favor of Shanghai people. The taste is made of cabbage, bamboo shoots and wild large yellow croaker Sichuan soup, and it is very fresh without oil. The Yongjiang Zhuangyuan Building in Ningbo is earlier than that in Shanghai. It was founded in the Qianlong period of Qing Dynasty, and it has been about 211 years since then. Around 1936, it was located at No.16 Rixin Street, with five facades and one hall on the third floor. It is operated by Li Jiliang and Sun Tongyao. Yingke, a famous chef who specializes in Ningbo cuisine, is a native of Ningbo. He once cooked in the "Dalai Xuan" Hotel in Osaka, Japan, and was the most famous for making Ningshi famous dish rock sugar turtle. Later, Hu Changyou, a famous chef, was also good at making rock sugar soft-shelled turtles. The soft-shelled turtle used in this dish must be killed alive, and diners have to wait patiently for an hour to taste it. In order to enjoy the delicious food, everyone has no complaints. Soft-shelled turtles are selected from more than half a catty to less than one and a half catties, and there are eight, six and four quarts, with six quarts weighing one catty being the most ideal. To cook this dish, you need a "glutinous" word, which looks complete in shape and tastes raw and fishy. This requires the chef to master the cooking well. Pay attention to the use of heat, strong flavor and heavy color on Huang Liang are the characteristics of Ningbo cuisine. Zhuangyuanlou brought Ningbo cuisine to Shanghai, and was the first to attract Ningbo diners living in Shencheng. Therefore, the shop has a unique style of Ningbo, with tables and chairs made of tiger yellow wood. Cooking on the stove and running vegetables in the shop all come from Ningbo, and all they do is the local accent-Alaningbo dialect. It is said that if you went to help a restaurant at that time and didn't know its local accent, you would suffer a cold reception and a supercilious look. The publicity and promotion of Ningbo cuisine in Shanghai should be attributed to Su Qing, a Ningbo scholar in Shanghai in the 1941s. Her articles, such as "Talking about Ningbo People's Eating", make Ningbo people in Shanghai feel more cordial and make Shanghai people's forefinger move. You see, her talk about eating is so "Ningbo accent": "For example, side dishes, I always buy roast chicken, onion barbecue, fish and eggs every day. Everything is fresh, but the cooking method in Shanghai is different from that in N City (Ningbo). All kinds of side dishes are sweet and greasy, and they seem to dislike them. N city people like to eat salty, slippery and easy-to-eat things, such as pickled wax gourd and stinky tofu, which are not easy to buy here (referring to Shanghai). It's time to eat osmanthus yellow croaker in August. A touch of yellow croaker on the belly of the fish looks like a transparent emerald. People in N City live near the sea, so it is natural to eat them fresh when caught. They often put salt and cooking wine for steaming, and they can also add shrimp soy sauce, but those who prefer to clear their mouths put shrimp melon juice or good salt vegetable juice, but the yellow croaker in Shanghai must be braised. First, it is fried in a lot of raw oil, then it is thick soy sauce, with onions and sugar. " The food culture of people in N City is written in detail. Su Qing really spared no effort to promote Ningbo's eating method. She talked about Ningbo's eating in Tiandi magazine and said in Xiaotiandi. Her collection of essays "Huan Jin Ji" talks about sleeping and eating: I eat small dishes on weekdays, and I like to stew or simply fry. The first thing is fresh, and the second thing is good. Another thing to note is that cooking and cooking fish must be vigorous, and cooking soup and barbecue must be slow. As for the color of the cooked side dishes, it is also very important. These are all the ways to eat in Ningbo. Su Qing, as a native of Ningbo, cooks and makes pies, which shows the Ningbo people's "slightly particular" diet view incisively and vividly: Su Qing said, "I can't afford to eat things that are too expensive, and I refuse to eat things that are too unclean". "When you are unhappy with your food, you can eat some dessert to make up for it." "I make pots and bowls for snacks, and I will never mix them with cooking and soup, so as to avoid the smell of greasy meat." "I like to use all kinds of exquisite dishes to set snacks, so it seems that I will feel more delicious because I look good when I eat them." Cooking "I love to use Zhoushan Luosi oil, but as for cooking wine, I don't hesitate to ask the number one flower carving to give in." These Ningbo food customs, together with the delicacy of Ningbo cuisine, have a subtle influence on every household in Shanghai, and over time, they have become the eating habits and tastes of Shanghainese. You see, Shanghainese drink and pursue "happy stomach", didn't they learn it from Ningbo people? In the inaugural issue of Shanghai Culture, Wang Zengqi wrote an essay entitled "Xiaolewei", which cited the dietary characteristics of Shanghainese and was vivid and interesting. As long as you look carefully, it is not difficult to find that this is entirely the habit of Ningbo people. Although Su Qing also eats Cantonese food, Fujian food and Sichuan food, she said: "When I get sick, I want to eat my own local food, especially the local products in the country (referring to Ningbo). I used to eat them when I was a child, but I don't have a taste when I think about it." This is caused by nostalgia, and it is often easy to think of the food in my childhood hometown. Zhou Zuoren is not obsessed with Shaoxing Zhou Dehe's tofu. What Su Qing said was spontaneous and casual. She has a bold and straightforward personality, and has a self-awareness and self-assertion that does not change because of people. Therefore, her introduction of Ningbo cuisine and Ningbo food culture in Shanghai also made Shanghainese regard Ningbo cuisine as the cuisine of Ala Shanghainese, which gave birth to the combination of Shanghai cuisine and Ningbo cuisine. Such as "small yellow croaker, the battle is bright, and the triangle ocean cymbals sell one or two! ..... Tougu fresh, no matter how good Amy is on the road "("Two Fish ")-who can tell whether this is Ningbo dialect or Shanghai dialect when selling yellow croaker? Another example is Su Qing's hobby, which is Shanghai cuisine or Ningbo cuisine? Shanghai people like pickled potatoes and fresh vegetables, but the way to adjust the tripod-"the combination of fresh and salty" is the cooking method of Ningbo people. Benedict is Ningbo dialect, which means simmering slowly; Salted and fresh compound mostly uses bamboo shoots as cooking, and bamboo shoots are Ningbo delicacies, and winter bamboo shoots and spring bamboo shoots are all available. The emergence of this food culture phenomenon shows that a cuisine is sometimes composed of two or more similar food customs and flavors, and at the same time, the eating habits of one cuisine are similar to those of another cuisine, and the food culture circles overlap and merge. Shanghai cuisine is composed of Yong, Su and Yang, and the dishes from all over the world certainly radiate to Shanghai. But it has absorbed the cooking skills of Ningbo cuisine in particular. Just as Shanghai dialect is a mixture of Shanghai local language, Ningbo dialect and Su Bai. In the new period, Ningbo people and their descendants in Shanghai also made extraordinary contributions to the promotion of Ningbo cuisine. Among them, Hong Pimo, known as one of the "Three Musketeers of Food" in Shanghai, has made indelible achievements. Hong Pimo is in Shanghai, and his heart is in Ningbo. His food articles: "Ningbo cuisine is popular in Shanghai" and "hometown flavor of Ningbo cuisine" promote the delicacy of Ningbo cuisine. He especially appreciates the cabbage soup yellow croaker, yellow croaker soup and Sanhuang soup. He said: "The soup of snow cabbage and yellow croaker is bigger. When eating, I scooped a bowl and then another bowl, which is enough." This is the mouth of Ningbo people. Eating yellow croaker soup, he said, fresh and tender fish, together with shrimp, sea cucumber, egg drop, diced ham and diced mushrooms, rippled in the soup, and the spoon was fresh, wonderful and easy to digest. He added: "The Ningbo seafood restaurants that have come to Shanghai include Hantong Seafood Hotel and Harvest Day Seafood Hotel. The free from worry of these restaurants is so magnificent that Ningbo restaurants such as Zhuangyuan Building in Yongjiang and Old Ningbo Restaurant in Hongqiao Hotel are dwarfed." It can be seen that his advocacy for the popularity of Ningbo cuisine in Shanghai is all due to the nostalgia of Ningbo people. Ningbo fellow villagers visited the "111-foot old house" in Shanghai Hongshi apartment, and the light meal he hosted was Ningbo cuisine; The fellow villagers in Ningbo sent him "Hantong Catering", and he returned a postcard with a picture of a Ningbo fish, with the postscript that "more than a year is more than a year". A glimpse of Ningbo complex. Can it be said that Hong Pimo's lingering homesickness is not only a nostalgia for Ningbo culture, but also a natural enrichment of Ningbo culture, especially Ningbo food culture. Su Qing and Hong Pimo, Ningbo literati in Shanghai, introduced Ningbo cuisine, which undoubtedly promoted the rise and popularity of Ningbo cuisine in Shanghai.