Diet is the basic condition for the existence of human society and the most important material civilization. Its regional feature is to form different tastes according to a certain geographical environment, and at the same time accept foreign new or advanced food culture with the constant changes of the times and life. Residents who moved to other places have maintained their original eating habits for quite some time. The influence of the catering industry in Tokyo (now Kaifeng), the capital of the Northern Song Dynasty, on Lin 'an (now Hangzhou), the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty, is the most concentrated embodiment.
During the Song Dynasty, there were only a dozen or two or three registered permanent residences in Hangzhou after the war. Northwest settlements are many times indigenous. " Today's rich people are often. (Record of Yan Jian years (Volume 173)) The original diet customs and catering industry can no longer adapt to the changes in the population structure and the sharp increase in the number of people as the capital, so the catering industry in Lin 'an in the Southern Song Dynasty set off a revolution and got great development. Northerners in Beijing, Tokyo and other places live in other places, and are also engaged in the catering industry for their livelihood. The unique smell of Huihuan District in Tokyo in the Northern Song Dynasty was well known in the kitchen (preface to Dream in Tokyo), and it had profound attainments and exquisite cooking skills in food aesthetics, so the food store founded by Tokyo people quickly occupied a dominant position in the catering industry in Lin 'an in the Southern Song Dynasty. According to "Jisheng Restaurant in Beijing", "Most restaurants in Beijing are run by people in the old capital. For example, the mutton restaurant also sells wine ... pork, pancreas and Hu cake. Since ZTE, only three restaurants in Tokyo have one, which is at the corner of Taiping Square every night. Those that have been effective recently. " It can be seen that Tokyo diet has occupied Lin 'an market and is developing continuously.
Yolanda pointed out, "Old Kyoko geisha is great. That is, the case of boiling rock and roll was renamed "What a good name". Lin 'an in the Southern Song Dynasty, "Fish soup on the lake, Wusao in Song Dynasty, Yang Li, Wang family in dairy house, and Song Xiaobao in blood belly soup are all worth counting" (on the volume of Maple Window). They are all restaurants of Tokyo people in Dunan Nankai, and Lin 'an is very famous in the Southern Song Dynasty.
These restaurants opened by Tokyo people are often generously given by the rulers of the Southern Song Dynasty. Song Gaozong Chen, the first emperor of Southern Song Dynasty, was behind Xiaozong and retired to Deshou Palace. He often entertains filial piety and old ministers who come to mourn with traditional Tokyo dishes. In the fifth year of Cherishing Spring (1 178), on the first day of February, Xiaozong personally went to Deshou Palace to pay his respects to Emperor Tai Shang, and Zhao Gou sent an in-house waiter to the folk food market to "announce" the dishes cooked by Tokyo people, including Li Po mixed vegetable soup, He Sizhi noodles, Zangzhu San Yi Hu cakes, and Gejia sweet food. During the dinner, Emperor Gaozong deliberately explained to the guests, "This is a famous dish for the elderly in Beijing". In case of traditional festivals, the court often "announces market food" and eats Tokyo-style snacks. Longxing period (1 163 to 1 164), according to the record of "Return to the Heart and Miscellaneous Knowledge", was watched at the Palace in China. After midnight, it tasted the fish soup of Nanwa and Li, and gave preferential prices. The fish soup made by Tokyo chef Song Wusao, who lives in Su Causeway, was praised by Qin Shihuang and became a much-told story.
Like the royal atmosphere that enveloped Lin 'an, Tokyo food culture quickly became fashionable in Lin 'an in the Southern Song Dynasty and was imitated by Lin 'an restaurants. According to "Dream of Liang Lu" volume 16 "Tea Shop", "Most restaurants in Hang Cheng are people who study the capital, and when they open, they also have an impact on the style of imperial chefs, which is expensive for officials." The food culture in Tokyo in the Northern Song Dynasty has an inherent political and cultural meaning that is not found in other places, that is, the style of the capital and the color of the court. With the help of the royal sacred prestige, people have a spiritual pursuit, which caters to people's psychology of climbing the dragon and attaching the phoenix and gives people metaphysical satisfaction. Song people often say, "wuyue is vulgar in Shang Hua" and "Ren Hang always likes to brag". It also made the Tokyo diet popular and respected in Lin 'an in the Southern Song Dynasty.
As a part of food culture, the interior decoration art of Tokyo food store was also popular in Lin 'an during the Southern Song Dynasty. According to Dream of Liang Lu, Volume 6, Tea Shop, Bianjing Deli Shop is decorated with famous paintings, so it attracts visitors and keeps diners. Nowadays, Hang Cheng tea shops are doing the same thing, planting flowers of the four seasons, painting by celebrities and decorating their storefronts. Displaying wonderful paintings and fragrant flowers in the dining room adds a touch of elegant culture to the secular world of mortals. Attracted by this, customers come to the door one after another and linger, which improves the attendance rate and can also feast their eyes. This kind of management was carried forward in Lin 'an in the Southern Song Dynasty, not only in delicatessens, but also in tea shops.
Facade decoration is the signboard and advertisement of the store, which plays an attractive leading role. Smart and grandiose Tokyo businessmen have long been committed to this. After Guo Wei, the founding emperor of the Five Dynasties and the following week, went to Panlou in Tokyo, hotels in Tokyo set up "red handkerchiefs, fringed curtains, gardenia lanterns with golden red tulle, etc." And naturally spread to Lin' an after crossing the south in the Song Dynasty. According to Naideon, "it has become a custom so far" (Jisheng Restaurant in the capital).
The catering industry should pay attention to hygiene, otherwise it will turn off its appetite and affect its business. The catering industry in Tokyo in the Northern Song Dynasty attached great importance to the neatness and exquisiteness of eating utensils, which was inherited by Lin 'an catering industry in the Southern Song Dynasty. According to "Dream of Liang Lu" (volume 18) and "Folklore", it is recorded: "In Hang Cheng, people who sell food and drink in department stores mostly decorate car covers and install new and exquisite utensils to hide their eyes and ears." Gaixiao learned about the weather in Bianjing, and because Gao Zongnan often called for a market after crossing the south, he dared not eat simply or rashly. "Accustomed to the diet in Tokyo, Song Gaozong often sent people to the market to buy food after arriving in Lin 'an. In order to cater to the emperor and make its products enter the palace, local businessmen imitated Tokyo style and tried their best to decorate all the utensils and carefully cooked catering projects. The catering industry in Lin 'an improved the service quality and product quality. Even street vendors who sell snacks and sweets are smart to follow the fashion: "There are ten kinds of sweets to be sold with benchmarks and ten kinds of sweets to be learned from ancient books in Beijing." Those businessmen who have tasted the taste of the Emperor are even more complacent, and even the hawking voice has become a Tokyo accent: "Even Shi Yu cars selling sugar-mud milk cakes have been announced, and all of them have taken effect in the hawking of the capital" (Menglianglu 13 Night Market) to show authenticity and goodwill.
Zhejiang and Zhejiang provinces in the Song Dynasty, with Hangzhou as the center, have always been famous for their exquisite diet. When it comes to local customs, Geography of the History of Song Dynasty IV points out that "thickness is more important than taste". There is also a folk proverb that spreads all over the country, and it is called "You can't break your word until you reach Zhejiang", which can also prove this point. The introduction of high-end catering culture in Tokyo caters to its customs, thus expanding the broader market and further improving the status of Lin 'an catering industry.
Tokyo food culture, which represents the north, goes south, and combines with Lin 'an food culture, which represents the south, so that the north and south food cultures can be combined in Lin 'an. In the Northern Song Dynasty, Tokyo cuisine was divided into three major cuisines: Northern Cuisine and Southern Noodle Restaurant and Sichuan Rice and Tea, which served southern officials and business travelers in Beijing. In other words, in the Northern Song Dynasty, the diet was not unified. However, "after crossing the south for more than 200 years, there is no difference between the north and the south because of the habits of water and soil and the chaotic diet" (Record of Meng Liang 16, noodle restaurant). The southern cuisine in the north only enriches the catering industry in Tokyo as a special food, while the northern cuisine in the south unifies the catering industry in Lin 'an.