Real Local Food - Eleven Album
Qinling-Huaihe
is the geographic boundary between north and south in China
This line is compatible with north and south because of its special location
Across the Qinling, you will find the boldness of Northwest China, and the flavors of Bashu
The Huaihe River, the thickness of the Central Plains, and the freshness of Huaiyang, which will make the National Day and Autumn Festival holidays a great opportunity to see the richness of China's Central Plains and the flavor of Huaiyang.
Bengbu, Anhui
The Huaihe River, one of the ancient "Four Dukes of the Sea," flows discreetly between its two mothers: the Yellow River and the Yangtze River. The river is not too wide or too narrow, separating the south and the north of China. It is the east-west of the "Finger of Softness".
Beijing-Shanghai Line, which connects two major international cities: Beijing and Shanghai. Each stop is a famous city, and the railroad tracks link up the history of the past and present. It's north-south steel.
This rigidity and gentleness have created a city that spans north and south, east and west, and at the same time is strong and soft and swaying - Bengbu.
Bengbu, the "ancient pearl-mining place", is a typical "water-dependent" place. Bengbu's flavor, first of all, is the flavor of the Huaihe River.
This temperamental mother river has given Bengbu people a not-so-abundant produce and a very optimistic character, the latter will be the value of the former to play to the extreme:
Suitable for soup is the lively " Cao fish. Cao fish Shell bones" (small crucian carp); suitable for braising is a sheet of "crooked" (mussels); "乌喽牛子" (snail) is best spicy, slowly picked with a toothpick; and "big ant shrimp" (crayfish) is thirteen spices, oil explosion, steaming each have their own wonderful.
There are five rivers in Lake Tuohu crabs , not big, but the meat is sweet; golden eye circle silverfish , made into silverfish holding eggs, is the old man, the children are greedy for home cooking. These rivers and lakes, and "fat" some distance, but it is Bengbu people eat out of the fun and flavor.
The train carries a thousand flavors
In 1912, the Jinpu Railway was opened. Bengbu became a "stop" for trains to add water and coal, and for travelers to get off the train and rest. There were also merchant ships coming from Hongze Lake, loaded with Banpu Huaihua salt, in this collection and distribution. The former small town, became a bustling transportation hub, commercial town.
People who speak with different accents also bring different flavors.
In the early twentieth century in Bengbu, there were restaurants such as Jiangzhuikuan, Dongtianju and Hongqinglou, which could prepare a variety of dishes from the four major cuisines of Beijing and Tianjin, Huaiyang, Sichuan and Anhui. Hongqinglou is also said to have been helmed by an imperial chef who had been displaced from the Qing Palace ("Bengbu Market View").
With the opening of the Jinpu Railway and the Shanghai-Nanjing Line, the cosmopolitan lifestyle that was popular in Shanghai made its way to Bengbu along the railroad tracks. Some of the local restaurants began to serve Western food on the side, making salads, hams, pork chops, and other Western delicacies. After the founding of New China, Bengbu's restaurant industry flourished due to the inheritance of traditions and conscious importation of learning.
The temptation of southern sweetness and northern saltiness begins in the morning
There are countless ways to open the breakfast of Bengbu people. But the tone of each is cozy and warm. Sweet in the south, salty in the north, spicy in the east and sour in the west, the richness of the city's flavors begins to show from a slow breakfast.
What soup?
It's not uncommon to see two big words at a breakfast stand in Bengbu:
The complicated strokes are confusing: what soup is this? Yes, it's sá soup.
In the junction of Shandong, Jining, Zaozhuang, and Anhui, Suzhou, Mengcheng, etc., there is also the habit of drinking "sá soup" for breakfast. Shandong is written as "grits", Anhui is written as "month?" (one word).
As early as in the "Rituals - Nei Zi" is recorded: "grits, take cattle, sheep, boar meat, three as one, small cuts, and rice. Rice two, meat one, combined as a bait, fried." It can be seen that the main ingredients of sá soup are meat and cereals, which is a long history of Middle Kingdom flavor.
But unlike other regions where mutton and beef are used, Bengbu's sá soup is mainly cooked with chicken, and in some cases, with cock. Often it takes a day to select the ingredients, put the chicken, wheat seeds, and various spices into a cauldron, and simmer for more than ten hours before the hot sá soup is served on the table the next morning.
But the process of making sá soup doesn't end in the kitchen.
Often, the owner of a breakfast restaurant will crack an egg into a bowl, whisk it, and then wash it down with a big spoonful of boiling sá soup in front of the customer. When the egg in the soup noodle wisps of diffusion, diners have long been hungry, but the boss is still not slow to point on the sesame oil, sprinkle pepper, an overflowing meat and eggs and wheat flavor of the morning before the real start.
The heat, flavor, and freshness of sá soup give it its versatility. It is both the protagonist and the base in breakfast. Whether it's the savory aroma of Beef Pancake Buns, the freshness of Small Dumpling Soup Buns, or the crispiness of the fritters, it's easy to navigate and complement each other.
Four-color Lanterns in Wine Soup: The Blind Box of Desserts
Because of the development of trade and transportation, the people of Bengbu have a long history of eating sweets. One of the most unique and widely spread is the four-color Lanterns in Wine Soup.
The so-called "four colors" of the "color", not in the skin, but in the filling. The four fillings - hawthorn, bean paste, sesame, and osmanthus - are rolled in the same cauldron. The four-color Yuanxiao with wine in muddy soup is made in clear soup and boiled in muddy soup. After the first boil, the amber-colored sugar oil made from sugar, wine wine, and sugar osmanthus is added, and the clear broth turns into a thick, sweet, pink-colored broth. Egg-sized Lanterns, white and chubby, four will be full of a bowl, each one a filling, a bowl of exactly four.
It's a mystery how the staff recognize the different fillings in the same pot. This is the store's philosophy of life: to know what flavor the next Lantern will be, you have to try it yourself with a casual mindset. The surprise is just between the lips and teeth.
Beef Box: Carbohydrate Pandora
Beef Box, which also has a place in breakfast.
Beef and vermicelli filling full to hold up the crust, pan-fried until half-cooked, and cracked with a duck egg. The oily, fragrant box of beef is truly - bigger than your face. Eaten with a light cowpea ragout, the satisfaction lasts all morning.
Many people who have eaten Bengbu's beef box are reminded of Tianjin's famous beef pies. This is as natural as people familiar with the dialects of the two cities marveling at the similarities between the Tianjin and Bengbu dialects.
At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, Zhu Di, the King of Yan, after the "war of pacification", had deployed a large number of people from northern Anhui and northern Jiangsu to guard the Tianjin guards; at the end of the Qing Dynasty, a large number of Tianjin railroad workers went down to the south to build the Tsinpu Railway. The bloodline between the two cities has a long history of kinship.
A south and a north, so similar to the two foods. Is it the hometown memories of the soldiers in the north, or is it the food style of the workers in the south? The secret of Carbohydrate Pandora has to be further unraveled.
Gluten Bubble: I'm not a doughnut
When it comes to doughnuts, almost all Chinese people in the north and south of the Yangtze River can say a few words about the legend of the "deep-fried Qin Hui". Bengbu has a breakfast that is a close relative of the doughnut.
With two thin braziers, the batter is hooked up, and the batter is constantly hooked back and forth in a hot frying pan, where it rolls and expands to become doughnut-like, but shorter and thicker gluten bubbles.
The process of picking the noodles is the key to making gluten bubbles. The whole process is like magic, and the brazier is the wand that directs the gluten to change. From white to golden, from sinewy to loose, each hook is the accumulation of qualitative changes. At the end of the magic, a brazier cuts through the middle of the gluten bubble and injects a bright yellow egg wash, creating a crispy and tender gluten bubble soul.
After kicking off a metamorphic morning in a thousand different ways, rice or noodles for lunch and dinner? This is never a question in Bengbu. As for which kind of rice to eat, again there is an optimal solution. Bengbu's Bailianpo Tribute Rice has a national geographical indication. The white rice porridge boiled out is fragrant and can produce three layers of "rice oil". This is a good medicine for Bengbu people to calm their nerves and sober up.
Bengbu people's eternal nostalgia: baklava sandwich ridge
No matter how the trend changes, and how many "Netflix" came and went, there is a food that always stands in the pyramid of the Bengbu food on the tip. Bengbu people will smile: roasted pancake with tenderloin .
The overly grounded name is the first obstacle to the charm of this cuisine. Admittedly, this simple meal doesn't have a long history or a beautiful legend. The secret to comforting Bengbu people's stomachs lies in the endless possibilities.
For the baklava, some prefer the crispy, thin Hugou baklava, while others prefer the thick, sinewy Jiaoliangpianzi. But this is not the most important. It's just a piece of "drawing paper", on which the "spine" is the focus. Tenderloin is not so much an ingredient as it is a name for a variety of ingredients.
Here, the baklava holds everything: meat, vegetables, mushrooms, beans, and, most beloved by Bengbu people, thin slices of tenderloin. After being deep-fried in a frying pan, the crispy carb coated with toothsome protein meets the biscuits to create a marvelous taste experience.
The "sandwich" is equally important. The addition of sauces can make the combination of ingredients more harmonious and smooth. Bengbu people tend to be "bold" again, "sweet and spicy, with a little cumin".
Which is the best bakery in Bengbu? A thousand people in Bengbu have a thousand answers. But they might suggest pairing it with a glass of adzuki bean iced wine brew to let the different flavors play out in the mouth, eventually coming down to a cool refreshing taste. Just as countless styles of food collide and intersect here, they come full circle in unexpected ways.
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Writer 丨 He Han
Editor 丨 Zheng Li
Map Editor 丨 F50BB
The first time I saw this, I was in the middle of a long journey, and it was the first time I saw it.