After the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Fujian cuisine gradually formed its own characteristics. Flavor snacks are famous in China for their many colors and good taste, and form different regional characteristics. \x0d\ In terms of hospitality customs, Fujian people are famous for their hospitality. Besides inviting guests to tea, it is also a common custom to treat them with boiled eggs. In terms of banquet customs, in modern times, it has become increasingly luxurious and has many rules. Among the people, there are still many dietary taboos. People in Fujian drink and drink tea for thousands of years. Especially drinking tea has become an indispensable part of people's daily life. Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, the wind of "fighting tea" has prevailed, and the "tea ceremony" in southern Fujian and the "smashing tea" in Hakka dialect are well-known at home and abroad. \x0d\ staple food \x0d\ 1. Rice \x0d\ Rice is the main staple food in Fujian. Since ancient times, rice has been the crown of grain cultivation in Bamin. \x0d\ Many counties in northern Fujian are famous grain-producing areas in history, and rice is the staple food of three meals. Qing Jiaqing's "Nanping County Records" contains: "Nanping has three meals on weekdays, and eating porridge is a shame. Only in the evening of summer, the person who eats is Ru. " (Qing Jiaqing's Nanping County Records, Volume 8, Customs) In rural areas such as Pucheng and Jianyang, some places still keep the habit of not eating three meals, while in Fuzhou, porridge is usually used in the morning and evening, and lunch is dry, and a "two dry and one thin" diet system is implemented. In Pingtan, Fuqing and some non-grain-producing areas along the coast of southern Fujian, there are people who eat porridge three times a day. Although there is no custom of "being ashamed of eating porridge" at present, Fujian people pay attention to "fullness" and "reality" in their diet. The so-called porridge is different from the "porridge" in the north, but it is very thick. \x0d\ Every busy farming season, such as spring ploughing and autumn harvest, some people in northern Fujian, northwestern Fujian and eastern Fujian eat four, five or even six meals a day because they have to get up early and grab the seeds in the dark to harvest. Some women who believe in God in southern Fujian want to skip breakfast on the first and fifteenth day of the lunar calendar or on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Wednesdays, which means to save food for future generations to enjoy. \x0d\ Rice processing is mainly based on steaming, stewing and fishing. In rural areas, it is common to fish and grow rice. Use bamboo grates to remove half-cooked rice, remove rice grains for lunch and dinner, and cook the remaining rice soup and rice grains into porridge for breakfast. \x0d\ People in some places in southern Fujian like to eat "minced meat porridge". Add minced meat, razor clam, onion and ginger, and a little salt and soy sauce to porridge for breakfast or dinner. Farmers in Liancheng, western Fujian, have dry rice for breakfast, porridge for lunch and dinner, and like to cook porridge with vegetables, taro and melon beans. Bamboo is produced in Taining, Jianning and other counties in northwest Fujian, and locals like to steam rice with bamboo tubes. Braised rice with bamboo joints is more interesting. When local people go up the mountain to work, they often cut a bamboo, put the washed rice in the bamboo seam, seal it, and collect firewood and barbecue on the spot. The bamboo cracked and the rice was cooked. The "dustpan rice" in Wuping, western Fujian, uses a dustpan to scoop rice pulp, steam it into rice skin, make it into small pieces, and wrap it with bean sprouts, lean meat and shrimp. In Nanjing, when farmers go to work in the fields or walk away from vendors, they are used to cooking rice balls with straw-woven small bags of rice, commonly known as "stem rice". Nanping in northern Fujian also has the custom of steaming rice with straw bags, commonly known as "straw bag rice". Fujian people are also very fond of "Ciba" and "Baiguo" processed with glutinous rice and japonica rice, and the production methods and forms have obvious regional differences. Fuzhou is mostly dragon; South Fujian is mostly blocky and oblate; Most of eastern Fujian and northern Fujian are spindle-shaped, but they are eaten in a similar way. They can be cooked and fried, and can be used as a staple food or as an accompaniment. \x0d\ 2。 Sweet potato \x0d\ is also called "sweet potato", "sweet potato" and "sweet potato". During the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, sweet potatoes were introduced into China from the Philippines. Xiao Min Ji, written by Zhou Lianggong in Qing Dynasty, recorded the story of sweet potato entering Fujian: "During the Wanli period, all the foreigners and barren sandy land acquired by Fujian people can be planted, first in Zhang Jun County, then gradually in Quanpu, and recently in Changle and Fuqing. When I first entered Fujian, I was hungry and one year old. " As soon as sweet potato was introduced, it made a great contribution to the relief of famine in Fujian. Fujian people built a "potato pavilion" in Wushan, Fuzhou to commemorate it. So "children, beggars, chickens and dogs all eat." And with its "raw food such as pueraria lobata, cooked food such as honey, its taste like cooked water chestnut", there is honey stored in the room, and there is an odor in the room. "("Xiao Minji "Volume III" Sweet Potato ") and become a pet on the dining table of Fujian residents. In Putian and some areas in southern Fujian, the old sweet potato has even become a household food, known as "universal food". Before 1949, in the "Dadong area" east of Da Qiao Town, Gutian County, there was a saying: Dadong has three treasures, "Sweet potato rice is used as grain and grass, bamboo chips are used as lamps, and fire cages are used as cotton-padded jackets" \x0d\ Hui 'an County in southern Fujian is sandy and moraine, with a large proportion of dry land, mainly planting sweet potatoes, and historically "sweet potatoes" In the past, people in this county mainly lived on sweet potatoes, and farmers even ate sweet potatoes three times a day, and only had a few meals of rice on holidays. After the sweet potato is harvested every year, except for a small amount of convenience food, most of it is processed into powder or cut into filiform or flaky "sweet potato rice" and "sweet potato slices", which are eaten all year round. \x0d\ As an alternative staple food supplement to rice, the most common way to eat sweet potato is to cook it with rice. During the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, Jiang, an admirer of Hui 'an samurai, took the topic of "Boiling sweet potatoes in a new kettle" and said: "The water bones are white for thousands of years, and the melon heart is like Dan. Although the rice soup turns black, it is not necessarily bitter. " (Special Issue on the 50th Anniversary of Sin Chew Huian CCBA) I appreciate sweet potato rice very much. There is also a saying in Fuzhou Old Records that "three meals are all rice, and villagers may mix potatoes and rice." (Records of Gutian County in the Republic of China (Volume 2 1 Records of Etiquette and Custom). \x0d\ Sweet potato is processed by boiling, steaming, baking and airing. In recent decades, with the improvement of living standards, the phenomenon of taking sweet potato rice as the staple food in the province has gradually decreased, but sweet potatoes are still widely used for brewing in urban and rural areas, and potato flour is used for accompanying meals and making various snacks. \x0d\ 3。 Pasta \x0d\ In addition to rice and sweet potato, pasta has been included in the pedigree of Fujian people's staple food since modern times. Flour processed from wheat used to be commonly known as "powder ash" in northern Fujian, but it was often called "foreign ash" before the Anti-Japanese War, meaning imported products. The most common types of pasta are dried noodles processed by the grain department, such as "Yangchun noodles", "Mid-Autumn Festival noodles" and "egg noodles", while folk products include "Daoxiao Noodles", "Fish noodles" and dough-bumps, bread, steamed bread, pancakes, jiaozi, meat buns, cakes and fried dough sticks. \x0d\ non-staple food \x0d\ Fujian is one of the main producing areas of fish, meat, vegetables and fruits in the south, so non-staple food has the characteristics of many colors, complete varieties and fine workmanship. Fujian people are mainly Han people, so they usually eat meat and vegetables. Daily non-staple food, meat mainly includes pork, beef, mutton, dog meat and so on. Birds include chickens, ducks, geese and pigeons. Fish are silver carp, crucian carp, eel, carp, grass carp, catfish and so on. Seafood includes yellow croaker, hairtail, pomfret, mackerel and salmon. Shellfish such as crabs, shrimps, clams, clams, oysters, etc. are also on the residents' plate. Beans in vegetables include soybeans, lentils, peas, black beans, mung beans, cowpeas, mung beans and various tender beans, and Mi Dou includes red beans and black beans; Vegetables mainly include Chinese cabbage, cabbage, mustard, leek, spinach, sunflower, water spinach, day lily, cabbage, kale, amaranth, rape, tomato, cauliflower, celery, bean sprouts, radish, carrot, onion, garlic, ginger and so on. Melons mainly include wax gourd, towel gourd, cucumber, pumpkin, gourd (gourd) and so on. There are also sweet potatoes, potatoes (potato), betel nut taro and so on. In addition, wild bamboo shoots and tobacco; Loach, eel, snail, etc. In the paddy field; Soft-shelled turtle, frog, slug (Echinothorax frog), etc. In streams and valleys; Snakes, wild boar, goats, muntjac, etc. Sometimes in the mountains. There are many kinds of bean products, such as tofu, dried tofu, bean skin, and refined yuba. Oils include vegetable oil, peanut oil, tea oil, lard and sesame oil. \x0d\ Fujian people always pay attention to the cooking of vegetarian dishes and are good at everything. In ancient times, there were different cooking methods such as frying, frying, frying, steaming, frying and swinging. The taste of food varies slightly from place to place. In Fuzhou, shrimp oil, sugar and wine are used as condiments for cooking, and sweetness, alcohol and fragrance are its styles, especially "sweetness". Mr. Yu Dafu once vividly described: "The taste of Fuzhou cuisine is mostly heavy sugar; There are four chickens and ducks cooked by several real restaurants in Fuzhou, just like canned candied fruit, and there is no salt flower. " (eat drink man woman in Fuzhou, Volume 4, Collected Works of Yu Dafu +050) Shrimp oil is forbidden in southern Fujian, which is light and emphasizes the original flavor. Chinese herbs such as angelica, codonopsis pilosula and medlar are often added to the soup. Some areas in southern Fujian like to eat salty food, and Nan 'an has the saying that it is neither salty nor sweet, and salty is sweet (light) and tasteless. The mountainous areas in northern Fujian and northwestern Fujian are affected by neighboring provinces, and the mountains are high and water-cooled. When cooking, there is more salt and pepper, and the flavor of the dish is stronger. \x0d\ The cooking skills of Fujian cuisine have four characteristics: \x0d\ First, the knife method is clever, interesting and aesthetic. It uses exquisite knife methods such as slicing, cutting and cutting to make cooking materials equal in size, uniform in thickness, consistent in length and uniform in cutting. No matter the texture is solid, crisp and tender, it can achieve the effect of deep penetration, generous shape and consistent appearance, and the appearance is beautiful and interesting. For example, dishes such as "light-grained snail slices" and "golden taro with the head of a chicken" give people the aesthetic feeling of picking flowers like lychee, shredding like hair, making the slices as thin as paper, leaving cheeks and fragrance, and having a mellow aftertaste. \x0d\ Second, the soup is exquisite, changeable and unique. Fujian cuisine emphasizes soup, emphasizing the original flavor. Seafood is mostly used as raw material, and it is skillfully cooked by carefully selecting various main and auxiliary materials, so as to remove the inherent smell of raw materials, astringency and fishy smell, and retain its original flavor, so that the soup tastes of dishes with different textures have their own characteristics, so there is a saying that "one soup becomes ten flavors". Such as "braised mutton elbow with taro" and "roasted tendon with onion", or the soup is clear as water, or white as milk, or golden and transparent, fresh and sweet. \x0d\ Third, the seasoning is unique, sweet and sour, and light. There is one difference in the seasoning of Fujian cuisine: make good use of sugar to remove fishy smell with sweetness; Clever use of vinegar and acid can refresh the mind. Moreover, it is famous for being sweet but not greasy, sour but not astringent, and light but not thin. In addition, Fujian cuisine also makes good use of red grain, sand tea, mustard and other seasonings. Only red distiller's grains have several uses, such as fermented distiller's grains, fried distiller's grains, drunk distiller's grains and so on. The seasoning has the functions of removing fishy smell, keeping fresh, enhancing fragrance, adjusting color, invigorating spleen, stimulating appetite, and helping digestion. , and thus constitutes the unique flavor of Fujian cuisine. Such as "drunken chicken", "shredded chicken with mustard tuber" and "duck with sand tea". All of them properly reflect the sweet and sour flavor characteristics of Bamin. \x0d\ IV. Exquisite cooking, elegance and generosity, and excellent color, fragrance, taste and shape. The cooking techniques of Fujian cuisine mainly include frying, frying, frying, steaming, stewing, stewing and so on. The delicacy of cooking is manifested in the fine selection of ingredients, proper soaking, accurate seasoning, exquisite soup and suitable cooking. Such as "Fish Fin in Pouch" and "Buddha Jumping over the Wall" all have this feature. Elegance and generosity are reflected in maintaining the colorful natural beauty of dishes and small and exquisite dishes. The delicacies such as "anchovies with dragon body", "white fried fresh sole", "raw fried yellow snail slices" and "ten brocade honeycomb tofu" all reflect elegant natural color and good color, fragrance and shape.