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Dongpo knows the taste best —— The relegation journey of gourmets
A generation of literary giant Su Dongpo wrote in the self-titled "Portrait of Jinshan": The heart is like gray wood, and the body is like a boat. I asked about your occupation, Danzhou, Huizhou, Huangzhou. Dongpo had reached the end of his life when he wrote this poem. The poet's life in his later years, if not drifting alone, has mixed feelings. However, unlike Du Fu's "misfortune is a blessing, pain in the heart, tiredness, and thick dust in the wine", Perilla still keeps her true colors and only laughs at her life achievements three times. This sense of humor in self-mockery is just the seasoning of Su Dongpo's bumpy life. It can be seen that his optimism and broadmindedness are extraordinary. It is no wonder that Mr. Lin Yutang praised in Su Dongpo's Biography: "Su Shi's great personality and wisdom in life are more prominent than any writer in China, and are more completely engraved in his life and character."

To say that Dongpo is broad-minded, it should be that he can turn grief into appetite from the beginning! Not only does he like eating, but he also cooks it himself. Things that others dare not eat or are not delicious have been transformed into well-known dishes by him, and some of them are still circulating today. I searched Baidu casually. Dongpo's names are Dongpo Meat, Dongpo Elbow, Dongpo Tofu and Dongpo Crisp ... Su Dongpo, an immortal genius, is remembered by future generations not only for his literary talent, but also for his cooking. Is he the only person who can have this honor since ancient times? Yes, that's him.

Yellow porridge tablets

Dongpo was demoted to Huangzhou, dusty. He hasn't settled down a wandering heart yet, but the scenery in Huangzhou has brought him unexpected surprises. And read his poem "First Arriving at Huangzhou":

Laughing all your life will be ridiculous when you get old.

All over the Yangtze River, fish is beautiful, bamboo is good, mountain is fragrant.

Besides, the poet is an example of Shui Caolang.

Unfortunately, it didn't help at all, and it was still a waste of time for the housekeeper to press the wine bag.

Shoulian lamented that any idle job he came here at the age of 43 was because of sin, shaking his head again and again and lamenting this absurdity. Zhuan Xu wrote a shocking scene. Huangzhou is facing the river on three sides, with green hills on both sides and beautiful scenery. Dongpo thought of the delicious fish in the vast Yangtze River around the city, looking at the mountains and repairing bamboo, and feeling the fragrance of bamboo shoots. Thinking about food from the beautiful scenery seems to forget the bitterness of the journey in an instant, and only think that the life of "fish and bamboo shoots" should be very good. For Dongpo, who loves life, eating is a great thought and pleasure in life when he is frustrated. Fish in the river and bamboo shoots in the mountains are excellent appetizers. Su Shi loves to eat fish, and there are many poems about fish in his poems. For example, the well-known "Hui Chong Riverside Scenery" says: "Peach blossoms are three or two outside the bamboo, and the duck prophet warms the riverside. Artemisia sphaerocephala has short reed buds all over the ground, which is the time for puffer fish to go up. " This seven-character quatrain is written about bamboo shoots, fat ducks and delicious puffer fish in spring, and the breath of life comes to my face. In Dongpo Zhi Lin (Volume 9) and Boiled Fish Soup, Su Dongpo proudly mentioned that the fish soup he made won the appreciation of the guests: "If you give it to Dongpo, try holding a gun and dagger, and cook fish soup for guests. If the guests don't applaud, it's easy!" Today out of Qiantang, the land and water are tired. Today, I occasionally eat with Zhongfu Youzhi, Wang and Qin, and then do it. The guests said that this soup is detached and has a high rhyme, which is beyond the reach of secular people. "

When Dongpo exiled Huangzhou, he cooked fish soup for his guests, and all he tasted were praised. Later, when I came to Hangzhou as mayor, I was tired of eating big fish and big meat. It happened that he had a party with some friends, and on a whim, he cooked in person and stewed a pot of fish soup as usual. Friends all praised perilla fish soup as "detached and elegant", which is really wonderful! The fish soup is extraordinary, and Lao Su said proudly, this fish soup can be cooked by ordinary chefs! Delicious fish are not blown out! There are Dongpo's secrets of cooking fish in Su Shi's Collected Works:

"Use fresh crucian carp or carp, cold water and salt as usual, use the heart of water shield, still reach the muddy onion stems, and do not stir. Medium-cooked, add a little ginger, radish juice and wine, and mix well. When cooked, eat it when you enter the orange peel line. "

Come to a fresh crucian carp or carp, scrape the scales and buckle the cheeks, take out the internal organs, do not marinate or fry, put the pot in cold water, put salt in the pot as usual, add half a cabbage and a few onions, cover the pot and start stewing, don't turn it with a spoon, cook it until it is half cooked, and then add ginger juice, radish juice and cooking wine. These three ingredients are prepared in the same amount, mixed in a bowl, and then poured into fish soup for stew. When the pot is almost cooked, sprinkle a few pieces of orange peaches and you can stop eating. Oh, my saliva accidentally dripped on the keyboard. ...

Dongpo was demoted to Huangzhou. Although he didn't have much money, he really changed his tricks to soothe his stomach. For Su Dongpo at that time, it was definitely not an idiotic dream. Although he was poor at that time, pork in Song Dynasty was far less expensive than ours today. He said in "Ode to Pork" that "Huangzhou's good pork is as cheap as dirt. The rich refuse to eat and the poor don't know how to cook. " People with status feel that eating pork simply reduces their value, and the poor don't know how to cook pork delicious. Dongpo invented the practice of pork. He "washes the pot, lacks water, and can't afford firewood." . Don't rush him when he is ripe, he will be beautiful when the heat is enough. "After Lao Su bought pork, he washed the pot, drained a little water, burned firewood and weeds to contain the fire, and simmered with a virtual fire that didn't emit flames. When it is cooked slowly and the heat is enough, it will naturally be delicious. I have to say that Su Dongpo not only loves to eat, but also knows how to eat! Really a senior foodie!

It is said that Su Dongpo later went to Hangzhou, where people were diligent and loved the people, so the locals gave him a lot of pork on holidays. As usual, he stewed pork belly into crispy and delicious, fat but not greasy braised pork and shared it with the people. From then on, the people named this braised pork "Dongpo Meat" and became a traditional dish.

Huizhou goods

In the eighth year of Song Zhezong (1093), Su Dongpo was banished to Huizhou in Lingnan again. For others, this is a smoky place, just to kill you, old Suman. But for old Lai Su, it was just a sweet demotion.

It was late autumn, and Su Shi saw that the tree beside the post station was still green, so he asked the little official who greeted him what kind of tree it was, and the little official replied that it was a litchi tree. Su was overjoyed and said, "After eating litchi, you can live in Lingnan." . We are now familiar with the phrase "300 lychees a day, I will not hesitate to be a Lingnan person", which should be said by Dongpo lying under the lychee tree and patting his stomach with satisfaction! Lingnan is located in the subtropical zone. Vegetables, fruits and vegetables grow rapidly and have a wide variety. Seeing that the vegetables he cultivated were about to be harvested, he happily wrote a poem: "Qiu Lai is full of frost and dew, and reeds give birth to children and grandchildren. I am as full as he hates, and I don't know why I want to eat chicken and dolphins. " Dongpo's homemade vegetable soup is also unique. In his opinion, it is much more delicious than meat. A poem says, "Hu Feng has rattan vegetables, which seems to be better than enemy soup."

In Huizhou, Su Dongpo also compiled many good articles related to diet, such as Poems on Eating Pork, Douhua Meat and so on. In "Gourmet Fu", Su Dongpo ridiculed himself as a "gourmet" and jokingly declared that polymers are beautiful enough to support my gourmet! In other words, all the delicious food in the world exists for Dongpo, an old glutton!

Su Shi spent three sweet years in the fragrance of melons and fruits, and Huizhou left him a good memory, just as he wrote in "Ding Feng Bo Nan Hai to Wang Dingguo to serve people and foster mothers": "How is Lingnan?" However, this peace of mind is my hometown. "