■ The custom of Chaoshan people going out.

Dress-urban and rural people pay attention to dressing neatly when they go out to do business and be guests. If you are a new guest or attending a festival, you should wear the most beautiful, timely and best quality clothes. Rural people call it "making leather pants". Before the 1960s, farmers went to the market to do business, mostly barefoot. After the 1980s, more and more people went to the market to do business with shoes and socks. Young men, women and children often wear new clothes when they go out to visit relatives.

In the past, people always took food baskets and baskets with them when they went to the market. Bring flower baskets and rattan baskets from relatives. For example, when traveling, civilians use bags, some use water cloth as bags, and rich people use rattan pods and suitcases. After liberation, people used military backpacks and wallets, women's flower handbags and plastic purses in fashion. After 1980s, all kinds of handbags, backpacks and suitcases became popular.

Transportation-Before liberation, people went out on foot and took long-distance boats. Calculate the distance, take 10 as a store, and generally walk for one hour. Cars are the means of transportation for wealthy families. In towns, there are many car shops for people to use. Officials and nobles sit in sedan chairs for four people. Generally, rich people take two people to carry bamboo sedan chairs, and brides get married in sedan chairs. The sedan chair was abandoned after liberation. There are few ox carts and no horse-drawn carriages in this area. After liberation, the garrison once had a carriage, which was later replaced by a car.

Before the 20th century, inland river offshore traffic relied on wooden sailboats and covered boats, and went to Suzhou and Hangzhou, Hainan and went to sea by double-masted red-headed boats. After the opening of Shantou port, the door opened wide and foreign ships poured in. There are many foreign, overseas Chinese and domestic shipping companies, and small ships are also used in inland rivers. By the 1930s, water transportation was developed, people went abroad to do business in the north and south, and there were more boats, so the red-headed boat abdicated. Chaoshan Railway started construction on 1904, and was completed and opened to traffic on 1906, which became the traffic artery between Shantou and Chaozhou. From the end of 1920s to 1930s, cars and highways were widely built in Chaoshan cities and counties, and Shantou Airport was built in 1933. At this point, the sea, land and air traffic is completely smooth, and the rich and businessmen use it as a means of transportation. Rickshaw (rickshaw) became an important means of transportation on urban roads in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China. However, whether in urban or rural areas, short distances still depend on walking. After liberation, a large number of bicycles appeared, and many pedal tricycles also appeared in urban areas. By the 1960s and 1970s, Shantou had become the region with the highest bicycle density. After 1980s, Shantou's land and sea transportation developed in an all-round way, and motorcycles also became the highest density area in China. Highway traffic and urban public transport have also gradually developed. Whether it is long-distance or short-distance, it has become a habit for people to go out by car, boat and plane. Before crossing the river in plain areas, ferries were used, and bridges were built after liberation. There are few small ferries in rural areas.

Farewell-all relatives and friends will have farewells when they travel far away. Many hipsters go abroad to make a living, far away from their native land. When they are about to return, they are often sentimental, or give souvenirs to each other, or send money for travel, or send boiled eggs and sweet pills to remind them that it is best to ask them for everything. There used to be a concept that "parents are here and don't travel far". Now that the transportation is convenient, everyone puts career first, and their ideas are gradually changing.

Avoid it-in the past, travelers had a difficult and dangerous journey, and many of them asked God for advice and chose an auspicious day. Say auspicious words when you leave, and avoid words such as falling, sinking, turning and falling. In recent years, traffic accidents have occurred frequently, including drivers and passengers, as well as people praying for God's blessing and people suffering from depression.

■ Chaoshan people's custom of hospitality and farewell.

entertain guests

Welcome guests. When the guests arrive, the host will come forward to meet them. If the guest is a stranger, the host should introduce the guest's identity and title to the guest's family and greet the guest to sit in the appropriate position. Guests from afar, and towels for washing your face.

Jingyan tea. It is the most common custom for hipsters to respect yancha, and it is indispensable to entertain guests at home. When guests arrive, non-smokers will be eager to buy cigarettes. The hipster has a good face. Use high-grade cigarettes when offering cigarettes. If there are no high-grade cigarettes, you often say "I'm sorry" to the guests. In the past, in the countryside, farmers smoked with chimneys. When the guests come, they put cigarettes on them and light a fire. When handing the chimney, you often wipe the mouth of the chimney with your palm and hand it to the guests. Later, when cigarettes were available, they rolled up cigarettes for their guests. In the Qing Dynasty, hipsters also had the custom of honoring betel nuts. Qianlong's "Chaozhou County Records" contains: "Betel nut leaves are always placed, and relatives and friends have no wine or tea. Don't think that setting betel nut is too simple and too slow. " Later, betel nut leaves were scarce, dry tobacco prevailed, and the custom of respecting betel nut was replaced by respecting rock tea.

see a guest off

Rural Fujian is more enthusiastic. Whenever a guest comes with a gift, the host only accepts a part of it and gives it back. They respect the old saying, "It's impolite to come and not be rude." Fujian will also be sent to alleys and outside the village. In the city, there is also this custom, but it is not as particular as in the countryside.

■ Viewing chaozhou people's Dietary Customs from Chaoshan Proverbs

crayon

Chaoshan proverbs are a form of daily oral communication among hipsters, a high generalization and induction of hipsters' life experiences, and contain hipsters' philosophy of life and principles of doing things. Diet, as the most important thing in people's daily life, has naturally been widely reflected in Chaoshan proverbs, involving Chaoshan snacks, special foods, chaozhou people's dietary preferences, dietary taboos, and exquisite cooking. Chaozhou people's dietary customs are more concrete, vivid and interesting in humorous Chaoshan proverbs. It can be said that Chaoshan proverbs are also a rare and important way to explore the food customs and culture of Chaozhou people. The following summarizes the part of Chaoshan proverbs about the eating habits of hipsters as follows for reference.

1. Chaoshan snacks and specialties found in Chaoshan proverbs

Chaoshan snacks are a wonderful part of Chaoshan food culture. Folk dim sum chefs of past dynasties have learned from the strengths of many families, collected local specialties and carefully produced them, and gradually accumulated and formed colorful and unique food artworks, which are also famous for their variety, exquisite materials, fine production, unique ingredients and delicious taste. Among them, famous brands are manifested in Chaoshan proverbs:

1. Zongqiu of Malao Palace-you must know the food.

The glutinous rice balls in Malao Palace refer to Shunde glutinous rice balls near Mazu Palace (namely Malao Palace) at the head of Shengping Road in Shantou City. Because zongzi is wrapped in bamboo leaves, you don't know the taste until you open it, so there is this saying. Metaphor has already seen through people's hearts. Because hipsters have the custom of eating zongzi and racing dragon boats on the Dragon Boat Festival on the fifth day of May. Moreover, after the Dragon Boat Festival in the south, the climate began to turn hot. Therefore, there is also a proverb "Don't eat zongzi in May, don't dare to put it".

2. South Jiangsu pancakes-sweet mouth and smooth tongue

Sunan pancake is a famous snack in Chenghai District, Shantou City. It melts in the mouth and is crispy and delicious. This means that someone can talk well and boast well.

3. Jinghai beans-good voice and bad teeth

Jinghai Ba Dou is a famous snack in Huilai County, Jieyang City. It's sweet and delicious, but because of its flexible texture, people with bad teeth tend to stick between their teeth. As the saying goes, all good things will be lost.

4. Italian cake-big and thick

Yixi Cake is a famous product in Yixi Town, Chaozhou City. It is a crisp Chaozhou-style moon cake, which is bigger and thicker than the moon cakes produced in other places. This is a metaphor for a better opportunity or a richer income.

5. Mianhu Crispy Sugar-No Rice

Mianhu crisp sugar is now a famous brand of Mianhu in Jiexi County, Jieyang City, which melts at the entrance and leaves no residue. This is a metaphor for unfounded conversation.

6. Laojuntang is fragrant and rotten-insipid.

The aroma of Laojuntang is rotten. In Laojuntang, Xiadongping Road, Chaozhou, the aroma of Gusu is rotting. Hard and tough texture, need to chew slowly, chew carefully. I have a tough attitude.

7. Shrimp on Seamount-Big Insert

Dried prawns from Haishan, Sanbaimen, Raoping County, Jieyang City. This has a great source of income.

8. Lion Head Goose-Big and Elegant

Lion Goose is very famous in Chenghai District, Shantou City, with big head, elegant posture and delicious meat. As the saying goes, this is a metaphor for tall and strong people.

9. Chaozhou hit an orange bucket

Chaozhou orange is very famous in Chaoshan. It is big, juicy and delicious. It used to be exported for a long time.

10. Pipa, persimmon and red duck back

Chini and Yabaidi belong to Gui Hu Town, Chaoan County, Chaozhou City. They are all famous fruit towns, one is rich in pipa and the other is rich in persimmon.

1 1. Chen Qiao's grandmother was surprised that the old man in Guaxi was afraid of wheat.

Chen Qiao and Dong Xi belong to Chaozhou dialect, one is rich in cucumber and the other is rich in wheat, which makes people tired after eating for a long time.

12. Nanpanzhou Caitou-Pain Cave

Nanpanzhou vegetable head, a well-bred radish rich in Chenghai District of Shantou City, is big. Legend has it that a farmer went to the field one morning and found that the radish had been stolen, leaving only a big hole in the field. Faced with such a scene, the old farmer can only feel sorry for the radish stolen in the hole. This means a great loss.

13. Glutinous rice is bloated.

Fat sausage is full of glutinous rice, that is, glutinous rice sausage, Chaoshan famous snack. Made of glutinous rice and various fillings stuffed into pig intestines, the skin is thin and stuffed, and it is bulging. As the saying goes, judge a book by its cover, which means that someone is too tightly dressed to tie his limbs.

14. Mianhu dried bean curd-hot single side

Mianhu dried bean curd is a famous product in Mianhu Town, Jiexi County, Jieyang City. When eating, fry the dried beans in the oil pan, only one side, so that half of them are brown and crisp, and the other half is milky white and tender, with a unique taste. Proverbs use homophonic related techniques to describe unrequited love

15. Nothing can be done.

Sweet, trendy glutinous rice rice cakes steamed with glutinous rice and brown sugar. Because it is not easy to deteriorate, it is convenient to store, and it is resistant to digestion and can fill the stomach. It is a necessary food for migrant workers who used to go overseas by red-headed boat. Because it is a helpless move to go out to work across the ocean, I have this sigh.

Second, Chaoshan proverbs reflect chaozhou people's dietary preferences

As the saying goes, "radish and cabbage have their own love" and "one side of the soil and water will support one side". People's choice of food depends not only on their physical characteristics, the conditions of the times, the surrounding natural environment, but also on their cultural characteristics. Different cultures have different standards and consumption patterns for food. Chaoshan people who are located by the sea have their own views and preferences on food.

1. Dajian Winter Festival Black

Pointy: A fish at the intersection of the river and the sea. Wu: mullet, a kind of freshwater fish. Winter Festival: Winter solstice. These two kinds of fish are the fattest from the winter festival to the end of the year. Mullet is a kind of freshwater fish that Chaoshan people prefer to eat, and it is also very valuable, which is widely reflected in Chaoshan proverbs. Related proverbs include "cold black hot bass" (black bass in winter and summer are the most plentiful) and "mullet's gills are not willing to share" (mullet is delicious, and even the gills that cannot be eaten are not shared with others). In June, mullet went bad, but bitter gourd and mullet began to come into the market fresh, so there was a "June mullet to leave a mouth".

2. Carp's throat hits grass carp's head

Influx people say that the part between the head and stomach of carp is the best, which is more delicious than the head of grass carp. Carp is the fattest fish in June, and it is a good product when it is available. So there is also the saying "Grain Rain in June".

3. The onset of sugarcane eating disease in winter

Sugarcane is ripe in early winter, so it won't get angry when eaten.

4. faint in the east at night, sleep in the north, red mane fish, fresh thin shell

The east wind blows late and the north wind blows early, which is the season for red-maned fish and short-toothed mussels. Thin shell is a specialty of Chaoshan, which grows in the estuary. It grows most fully in June, so there is a saying that "thin shell in June-fake big head".

5. Silkworm mussel larvae-acid eaters

Money snail and mussel are two kinds of shellfish, which have little meat, are inconvenient to eat and have nothing to eat at the same time.

6. Three or four sellers of plums and five or six mowers.

Every year in March and April, Myrica rubra goes on the market, and people begin to sell Myrica rubra in the market. But "one bayberry, three fires", bayberry has hot air, it is easy to get angry, so you can't eat more. Because bayberry is not easy to preserve, after the Dragon Boat Festival, there will be no bayberry on the market. That is, "Shui Mei is no more than April and August, while Yangmei is no more than May".

It is hot in May and June every year, and people start selling grass (cold food) in the street. Grass is a heat-clearing snack sold by Chaoshan folk merchants in dog days. Usually it's in a big jar. When someone bought it, they scraped it out of the jar one by one with a spoon and put it in a bowl. At the same time, they cut it several times in the bowl and sprinkled it with sugar. A similar summer food is tofu. These are small businesses. Therefore, it is called "grass bean curd, cut ginseng and cut it" (this is small and beneficial). Related proverbs include "other people's grass, other people's sugar" (other people's things can be squandered at will), "the grass is ripe, the weather has changed" (the weather in summer is changeable), "the clouds are floating south, and the grass is sold" (it rains, but the grass cannot be sold) and so on.

7. Three or four peaches and plums and seven or eight sweet persimmons

In March and April, peaches, plums and persimmons ripened, and in July and August, Yougan and persimmons went on the market.

8. The first frost, olives fell into the urn.

Olives can be harvested at maturity during the first frost. Olives are packed in urns because they wrinkle when exposed to the wind and need to be sealed in urns for a long time.

9. Fish lovers love bamboo pod fish and pomfret fish, and theater goers love to watch Su six niang.

It is said that mackerel and pomfret are good, and the Chao Opera Su six niang is a good play. Influx people especially like delicious pomfret heads. How much do they like to eat? There is a saying that "selling land to buy pomfret nose", which exaggerates the delicacy of pomfret head.

10. Identification of food germs test

Octopus, a kind of crab, has conical shells at both ends and long feet. Influx people like to marinate raw food with raw octopus. Although it is delicious, it is bad for the stomach and easy to have diarrhea.

Thirdly, from Chaoshan proverbs, we can see the cooking stress of Chaozhou people.

Chaozhou people's cooking skills pay attention to color, fragrance and taste, and its long-standing cooking culture has long been well-known at home and abroad through Chaozhou restaurants scattered at home and abroad. Chaozhou cuisine, in particular, is famous for its seafood. Colorful cooking materials, such as shark's fin, bird's nest, internal organs of livestock and some vegetables, are rarely used in the world.

1. How to make Chaozhou cuisine

Three frying methods of Chaozhou cuisine. Cooking pays attention to "big fire and fragrant fish sauce". Preparation of four clear soups of Chaozhou cuisine. It is to soak raw fish and vegetables in hot soup, just like eating hot pot now. Among Chaozhou cuisine, soup and bubble are the most distinctive. Characterized by sweet and delicious taste, and can maintain the original flavor.

2. The "color plate" art of Chaozhou cuisine

When Chaozhou cuisine is served, the chef uses bamboo shoots, radishes and potatoes. Carve all kinds of flowers and birds or decorate vegetables on plates. Therefore, there is a saying that "Wan Jie is crowded". Lu Guan, a kind of coriander unique to Chaoshan area, is used as a vegetable head. The word "elder sister" is purely anthropomorphic honorific, and does not mean that it is a woman. This proverb is a metaphor for people and things that are moving forward.

3. Pay attention to the cooking ingredients of Chaozhou cuisine

There is a saying of "tender ginger and aged vinegar" and "raw onion and cooked garlic". Ginger for seasoning should be tender and vinegar should be aged. When using onions, you only need to chop them without frying them, and when using garlic, you need to fry them. These are all highly summarized experiences of Chaoshan chefs. Chaozhou cuisine also attaches great importance to seasoning. When each big dish is served, it should be accompanied by a "pickles", sometimes sweet sauce, sometimes plum sauce, sometimes orange juice and so on. It all depends on what dishes are served. Dip in all kinds of "sauces" and the taste is more unique.

4. Pay attention to the dishes of Chaozhou banquet

Chaozhou banquet dishes pay attention to the diversification of diet and the collocation of meat and vegetables. Therefore, there is a proverb "Eat fish and meat, but also eat vegetables".

Bibliography:

Selected Works of wang hong, the Essence of China Cooking

A collection of Chaoshan idioms edited by Cai.

A Dictionary of Idioms in Chaoshan Dialect edited by Lin Lunlun

Cai's Notes on Chaoshan Common sayings