Ducks in Chengdu Plain are mostly kept in dams, ponds, ditches and rice fields, feeding on insects, fish, shrimps and grains, and mature in autumn. Ma duck grows naturally because of its natural habits, and its meat is delicate and beautiful. From the beginning, it was delicious among Sichuanese and delicious on the table. More than a hundred years ago, there were dozens of popular duck dishes in Chengdu, such as salted duck, roasted duck, roast duck, marinated duck, fried duck, sauced duck, wooden bucket duck, bad duck, salted duck and sweet-skinned duck. In the menu of the restaurant, there are 100 kinds of duck dishes.
In Xiyu Street, Chengdu, Wang Pangya, who moved to Banbianqiao Street in Chengdu in the mid-1970s, has been hanging roast duck for more than 100 years and was the only halal duck restaurant in Chengdu at that time. Founder Wang Fuxing, fat and smart. His soft roast duck is characterized by exquisite selection of materials, diverse ingredients, fine production, crisp and fragrant duck skin, tender meat and fresh and moist taste, which has won many people's love, and people have named it "Wang Fat Duck". Interestingly, Chengdu people collectively refer to the smoked ducks as "roasted ducks". The most famous ones are roasted ducks, Zhangcha ducks, Qingshiqiao roast ducks and Qinglongchang warm ducks.
After more than a hundred years, the warm duck has been passed down from generation to generation, and the technology is improving day by day, and the flavor is unique and exquisite. The duck which has grown for six or seven months is selected and treated, pickled, air-dried, smoked and marinated for a total of 12 procedures. The finished product is golden and shiny in color, perfect and plump in shape, salty and fresh in taste, salty and fragrant, tender and smooth in mouth, and most suitable for drinking with wine, so it has become a delicious duck dish deeply loved by Chengdu people for hundreds of years. Then there is the roast duck of Qingshiqiao Zhang roast duck, which makes my mouth water when I think about it. Qingshiqiao also has warm duck, Qinglongchang warm duck, Ronghua Temple Zhuang duck, Pixian Tangchang salted duck, Pengzhou Jiuchi salted duck and Qionglai fried duck. However, the most famous is Chengdu Rat Cave Tea Duck, which is well-known at home and abroad.
In towns all over Sichuan, especially in the streets and alleys of Chengdu, the smell of duck dishes is floating in the air from morning till night. Luggage case street vendors, temporary stalls, specialty stores and other comprehensive marinated shops can be seen everywhere. All kinds of duck dishes and small parts of ducks, such as duck wings, duck feet, duck neck, duck tongue, dried duck, duck skull and so on. It has always been a good dish for men in Chengdu and a casual snack for beautiful women. In recent years, the skulls of salted ducks in Chengdu are flying all over the sky, and the air is filled with pungent and suffocating smell. But the most shameful thing is Zhangcha duck, smoked duck, crispy duck and roast duck.
Over the past hundred years, Zhangcha Duck has become famous at home and abroad, not only fragrant to ordinary people's homes, but also a delicious and spicy leisure food for Sichuanese. It is also a taste for both refined and popular tastes, intoxicating, glamorous and friendly. Zhangcha duck is perfect in shape and bright in color, supplemented by lotus leaf cake and onion pickles, and becomes a feast dish after the first course. Its duck skin is crisp, the meat is delicious, fat but not stuffy, tender but toothless, tender and slag; The taste is seven flavors, fresh and sweet, mellow and long; Lotus leaf cake is white and elegant, soft and soft, which makes people feel comfortable and refreshing. Eating Zhangcha duck pays attention to frying and eating now, serving it while it is hot, and fully feeling its elegant and mellow taste. If a glass of wine is sucked slowly and vomited slowly, it is the fragrance of duck wine, the strong wine, the lingering fragrance of mouth and teeth, and the intestinal entertainment for the stomach. In A.D. 1930, the famous chef of Sichuan cuisine in the Huang Dynasty was famous for his delicious tea duck in Shanghai.
Before the1950s and early 1960s, the famous Sichuan cuisine teachers Kong Daosheng and Chen Zhigang were sent to the China Hotel in Prague, the capital of Czechoslovakia, to teach Czech chefs the cooking techniques of Sichuan cuisine, among which the camphor tea duck was highly praised by Czech politicians and celebrities. 1979, famous Sichuan cuisine teachers went to Hong Kong to perform, and Zhangcha duck became a golden dish that sensationalized Xiangjiang River. 1983165438+10, the first national famous chef's cooking performance. Zeng Qichang, a master of Sichuan cuisine, won the title of national excellent chef for his famous Sichuan dishes such as Zhangcha duck.
Sichuan classic duck dish also has a crispy duck, which is similar to Zhangcha duck. This kind of duck is first coated with spiced powder, Shaoxing wine and Sichuan salt, and then marinated in a casserole for 40 minutes. Take out the crushed ginger and put it in a steaming big bowl, tie the scallion and pepper into knots, put them on the duck, put them in a cage and steam them until they are soft; Remove, drain, cool, put in an 80% hot oil pan, fry until the skin is crisp and golden, and remove; Then cut into pieces according to different parts, put them into duck shapes, brush fragrant rapeseed, and serve with scallion pickles. There is no smoking process in the production of crispy duck, that is, pickling, steaming and harrowing, and frying crispy. This duck dish is characterized by its unique crispness, rich aroma, tangy aroma, crisp but not firewood, crisp but not oily. During the period of 1954, the former chef of Beijing Hotel accompanied Premier Zhou Enlai to attend the World Peace Conference. After the meeting, Zhou Enlai hosted a banquet in honor of Swiss celebrities, famous film performance artists and humorous master Chaplin. After eating the crispy duck, he was full of praise, lamented that it was "delicious food that will never be forgotten" and asked Zhou Enlai to send him one to share with his family. During the dinner, Chaplin also specially met with Kang Jun, a fan, and said humorously, "I'm going to Beijing to learn how to make crispy ducks with you." The two sides laughed, showing Chaplin's deep love for crispy ducks.
However, many diners nowadays, especially Sichuan cuisine lovers, are still infatuated with some famous Sichuan restaurants, but they don't know that these famous "old brands" are really old-fashioned, and their flavor characteristics have long since become a thing of the past. In fact, some traditional Sichuan restaurants in Chengdu, such as Zhangcha Duck in Xuanxuan Courtyard in Kuanxiang, Zhang Roast Duck in Qingshiqiao, Warm Duck in Qinglongchang, Duck in Ronghua Temple Village and Leaf Duck in Jianghan Road, are very authentic. It is worth mentioning that Zhang duck in Qingshiqiao has been fragrant for almost 30 years since the 1980s. Always adhere to the traditional local roast method, not only is the old-timer of local roast duck, but also its huge local oven Cyclobalanopsis charcoal roast method is the only roast duck in Chengdu at present.
There are also crispy ducks, fried ducks, roasted ducks, marinated ducks, smoked ducks, sauced ducks, bad ducks and roasted ducks made by individual households scattered in small streets and vegetable markets, which are also delicious. Delicious ducks in towns and villages around Chengdu can be seen naturally, and you can taste them with your mouth open. Moreover, the materials are true, the production is exquisite, the technology is traditional and the flavor is authentic. For example, Tangchang salted duck in Pixian county, Jiuchi salted duck in Pengzhou, Ma You native duck in Xinchang ancient town of Dayi, Chongzhou native duck, Liujiang fried sauce duck, Leshan sweet-skinned duck and so on.
Sichuanese have always had a soft spot for local specialty Ma Duck. Except duck feathers used to make down jackets and pillows, a duck eats from head to toe, from inside to outside, even the blood of the duck is not spared. In the eyes of Sichuanese, duck blood is higher than pig blood. Don't be surprised if the store tells you that his hair blood powder is duck blood instead of pig blood. Besides, duck skull, duck neck, duck feet and duck wings are absolutely indispensable delicacies for spicy griddle, spicy incense pot, cold cup and night beer. Especially the spicy duck head, duck neck, duck wings and duck feet are the favorite dishes of Chuanmeizi and a good dish of Chuanmeizi.
Another big hobby of Chengdu people is eating ducks. They like to eat roast duck, duck intestines and duck blood. The word "Mao" was originally created by Sichuanese in Sichuan dialect, that is, all kinds of vegetarian dishes are put into bamboo baskets, then boiled in spicy and fragrant brine soup pots for two or three minutes until they are hot or cooked, and then poured into bowls filled with a small amount of simple seasonings for eating. Among them, roast duck, duck intestines and duck blood are unique. Maocai roast duck can be said to be one of the highlights of Chengdu's unique civilian food culture, and even become a special flavor dish in restaurants. Qingshiqiao Zhang roast duck and Jianghan deer wild duck are famous for their roast duck, duck intestines and duck blood.
Not only that, there are dozens of famous duck dishes in traditional Sichuan cuisine. Old diners are familiar with Cordyceps duck, Cordyceps duck tongue, angel duck, Taibai duck, gourd duck, white sauce duck roll, crystal duck square, bean paste duck and so on. Generally, they know silk duck, sour radish old duck soup, fried duck tongue with green pepper sauce, konjac roast duck, roasted duck with green beans, fried duck with ginger and so on. In many classic Sichuan dishes that have never been heard or seen before, the' fairy duck' becomes a' fairy' if it is accidentally eaten. The fairy duck in Sichuan cuisine, also called southern duck, is a traditional classic dish. It is famous for its awe-inspiring atmosphere, elegant shape, bright red color, soft meat, tender residue, delicious taste, thick juice and suitability for all ages. Because of its old age and long life, the' living immortal' who has lost his teeth can chew and swallow, hence the name' fairy duck'.
Ladies and gentlemen, look at this duckling. It is insignificant, insignificant, but with its delicious mouth, a pair of skillful hands and cooking skills, it has become an unparalleled human delicacy. No matter its color, fragrance and taste, it can't help but be amazing, applauded and memorable. The interesting experience of this famous duck born in the rat hole, as well as the local customs of western sichuan bazi, make foodies linger. It can be concluded that Donald Duck and Rubber Duck absolutely dare not go to even the land of abundance that people on the earth long for.
Sichuan province annals? Deputy Editor-in-Chief of the Editorial Committee of Sichuan Annals; Sichuan cultural person; Sichuan writer.