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Manufacturing method of LED electronic light box
Simple manufacturing method of LED electronic light box

1, production: using acrylic board, plastic board, or other thermal insulation materials, I mostly use black 2.5mm double-layer aluminum-plastic board. First, engrave the words to be made with single-sided adhesive tape, stick them on the aluminum-plastic board with good size, and punch holes with electric drill or engraving machine (the spacing is 10- 15mm according to the size of the words), and the size and diameter of the holes should not be too large. Write with F5 spotlight, and the hole spacing should be15 mm. Try it and you will know why. If 546 oval lamp is used, the hole spacing can be controlled between 20- 10mm, and the closer the distance, the better the effect.

2. Series connection: Connect the LEDs in series according to-,-,-,-to produce a positive electrode (labeled A) and a negative electrode (labeled K-). The connection of lamp feet needs soldering, or they can be screwed together before soldering. Remember: it must be welded. Because the legs of LED are plated with iron and silver, once the current passes, it will rust quickly, which will cause hidden dangers to the light box and bring a lot of trouble after sale. There are many conjoined lights now, which can save a lot of time and improve production efficiency, but there are only 20 lights in each row, so welding is inevitable. Note: the long leg of LED is "+"(positive pole) and the short leg is "-"(negative pole).

3. Grouping (string): Group according to the maximum number of LEDs of various colors in the schedule, for example, each string of red LEDs does not exceed 120. There is a simple reason. The output of the controller is about 2 10V, and the working voltage of the red light is about 2V, which means that each LED lamp will drop 2V. If there are too many LEDs, the output voltage of the controller can not reach the voltage required for the normal operation of the light string, and the light string is not bright or the brightness is too low.

Note: It is not recommended to use "*" in the attached table. When the number of series LEDs approaches or exceeds the number with "*", it is easy to cause circuit instability. It is suggested to divide them into two or more strings and connect them in parallel as a group.

4. Series resistors: According to the number in the attached table, connect an appropriate number of resistors in each led string. The resistor has no positive electrode and negative electrode, and can be connected in series between any two LEDs in the string. Thread where wiring is needed, saving time, effort and thread.

Note: Due to different product batches and models, the specific number and series resistance depend on the working current. The above parameters are for reference only. The current of each branch of LED should be adjusted to 19mA 1mA, and the resistance should be 1k/2W, for example, 5k. Five resistors with the resistance of 1k ohm and the power of 2W can be connected in series.

5. Connecting the controller: Connect the positive pole of each string of LEDs to the positive pole (red line) end of the controller, and connect the negative pole of each group of LEDs to the negative pole (green line) control end of the controller. The three yellow lines are the output lines of the running water side lights, which are respectively connected with the negative electrodes of the three groups of side lights. The three anodes of the side lamp are welded with the anode of the protagonist. Generally speaking, the controller has a straight and bright output line. If there is no constant light requirement, the constant light output line of the light box should be cut or glued to prevent the controller from being damaged due to open circuit with the positive electrode.

6. Debugging: The connection is correct, and it will light up after power-on. A simple way to measure the current is to measure the voltage around 15-20V (preferably less than 18V) on one of the 1K/2W resistors with a multimeter DC voltage range, and then measure it after it exceeds 20V, until it is normal. In order to facilitate debugging and measurement, the controller mode can be set to debugging state and long delay interval state, at which time the controller output is in a large proportion of long on and short off state. Now the controller has direct bright output, and constant current is beneficial to accurately measure the voltage of the resistor.

7. Maintenance: If it doesn't light up, use the multimeter DC 250V, the black stylus is connected to the green line, and the red stylus is connected to the red line. If the indication is jumping or at 200-220 volts, the controller is normal; The black stylus does not move, and the red stylus measures the voltage at both ends of each led in turn. If the voltage difference between the two legs of the LED is very large or there is no voltage, the LED is damaged. Replace it and try again.

8, light box assembly: I introduced a cheap method, using aluminum profiles is beautiful, but the cost is high, I am useless. Material: 2*. Mm wooden keel and 2 * mm aluminum angle (90) are generally available in the decorative materials market. The specific production method does not need to be elaborated.

9. Note: Newcomers often ask why green and blue lights are easy to break down. In fact, most of the reasons are not the quality of the lamp, but the novice welding technology is not fully mastered, the welding is not smooth, and the time is too long, which leads to the damage of the LED lamp. This requires improving welding technology and speed to avoid it.