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Eating Noodles in Wang Zengqi's Prose
"Jumping noodles" is a home-cooked snack in Gaoyou. Wang Zengqi described it like this:

It turns out that our noodle restaurant in jiaozi sells "jumping noodles". Dig a hole in the wall, insert a wooden pole in the hole and put a table under the wooden pole. The wooden pole is pressed against a very hard surface, and people sit on the wooden pole and press the surface repeatedly. Because you have to jump step by step when pressing the noodles, it is called "jumping the noodles". "Jumping noodles" can be cut very finely, and the soup is not turbid in the pot. It tastes hard and soft. The soup is only shrimp, cooked lard, soy sauce and chopped green onion, but it is very fresh. If you don't add soup, just put the noodles in the seasoning. This is called "dry mixing", You Mei.

-"Wu Monk and Seven and a Half Fists"

"tiaomian" is a strange dialect word for ordinary readers. But after Wang Zengqi's enthusiastic introduction and description, it suddenly became vivid. This kind of local snacks with bright oil and chopped green onion makes people feel wonderful and drooling. The impression of Gaoyou instantly melts in the delicious noodle soup, which is fascinating.

The original text of "Wu Monk and Seven Fists and a Half":

Wang Zengqi

My hometown has the habit of "late tea". At four or five o'clock in the afternoon, you should eat a snack, a bowl of noodles, or two baked wheat cakes or an "oil chopping block". 198 1 year, I returned to my hometown after being away for more than 40 years, and my hometown people still maintain this habit. One afternoon, "evening tea" was baked wheat cake. I asked, "Is this the sesame seed cake in the alley?" The niece said, "It's made of seven and a half fists." "Seven and a half fists" is of course a nickname. It describes the man as short, only seven and a half fists high. This nickname is very vivid. I don't know which sharp-tongued and extremely clever person gave it to him.

I'm eating sesame seed cake. It's delicious and tastes the same as it did more than forty years ago, just like monk Wu did. So I thought of the monk.

In addition to the front door and side door, there is also a back door in my house. This back door opens on the back wall of the monk's house. Open the back door and cross the Wu family to the alley. Sometimes when we go in and out through the back door, we can see the situation of the monk's house clearly.

Monk Wu Da (this is a nickname, many people in our place have big names, but they only use the nickname "Xing" all their lives) to open a pastry shop.

We have two kinds of biscuits here. One is called "Straw oven biscuit", which is baked with straw in a high oven. Noodles are thick, few layers and cheap, which are bought by country people when they go to town. One is called "barrel furnace sesame seed cake". In a big wooden barrel, there is a layer of mud in it, coal is burning at the bottom of the barrel, and sesame seeds are roasted on the wall of the furnace. The bowl of "barrel furnace sesame seed cake" is thin and multi-layered, with many sesame seeds on the cake surface and salty taste. If you add money, you can also "insert crisp", that is, add more "oil noodles" when rolling sesame cakes and bake them, which is particularly soft. If you take lard residue and dried mushrooms at home, you can make dried mushroom oil residue sesame cake with unique flavor. "White Deer Plain" made by Master Wu.

It turns out that our noodle restaurant in jiaozi sells "jumping noodles". Dig a hole in the wall, insert a wooden pole in the hole and put a table under the wooden pole. The wooden pole is pressed against a very hard surface, and people sit on the wooden pole and press the surface repeatedly. Because you have to jump step by step when pressing the noodles, it is called "jumping the noodles". "Jumping noodles" can be cut very finely, and the soup is not turbid in the pot. It tastes hard and soft. The soup is only shrimp, cooked lard, soy sauce and chopped green onion, but it is very fresh. If you don't add soup, just put the noodles in the seasoning. This is called "dry mixing", You Mei. We call wonton jiaozi. The Wu family also sells jiaozi. But more people eat "jiaozi noodles", that is, half wonton and half noodles. I remember that forty years ago, the jiaozi noodles of the monk's house were 120/bowl, which means that twelve were ten coppers.

The pattern of the Wu family is a bit special. My home is in the east of the alley, that is, outside the back door of my house, but opposite the shop. In addition to the barrel stove for baking sesame cakes, there are pots and pans in the shop, which are used to sell noodles and jiaozi. There is also a square table (only one) for customers to eat noodles. Everything is clean.

The Wu family has a simple population. The monk has a young wife who takes care of Jiaozi and his subordinates. His young wife is not tall, but very slim. The skin color is slightly black. Long and narrow eyes and thick eyelashes are the so-called "peach eyes". There is a small scar on the upper eyelid of the left eye. I think it's a childhood sore. This little scar makes her look beautiful. But she never flirts with customers or prostitutes, just lowers her head and does things quietly. It's also very simple to wear, just green cloth and pants. She gave birth to a child with a monk and is still breastfeeding. The monk has a mother who is not idle all day, rummaging through the family's cotton-padded jacket pants, patting the soles of shoes and shaking her grandson sleeping in the cradle. In addition, there is a little buddy, "jumping noodles" and burning fire. On the surface, the family seems to be calm and there is no dispute. Actually, it is not. Monk Wu often beats his wife at night because she "cheats". Where we call an affair with someone "stealing others". It is so heavy that we can hear it go through the wall when chopping wood. This little woman is stubborn, she doesn't cry or shout, and she doesn't say a word.

Get up early the next day and do as usual. Monk Wu rolled sesame cakes and baked them. His wife got off in jiaozi.

Finally, one day, the young wife of the monk disappeared and ran away, leaving the child on the nipple and disappeared. We don't know who her "orphan" is (here we call illegitimate daughter and savage "orphans").

I have been full of respect for this woman since I was a child. I always remember her appearance, her peach eyes and the small scar on her left eye.

The monk and this peach-eyed kannika nimtragol are probably dead. Now, there is a biscuit shop with seven fists and a half in this alley. I always feel that seven fists and a half have some connection with the monk Wu Da, which causes me some unclear feelings.

Seven and a half fists are not surprisingly short. I estimate that he is about 1.56 meters, and he is a very aggressive young man. He is a veritable "self-employed", and he is the only one in the whole store. It is not difficult for him to become a million yuan household. Maybe he is already a million yuan household. His biscuits are so delicious and his business is so good. I think for no reason that he will marry the most beautiful girl in this street, and this girl will really love him and be considerate of him. I looked at the appearance of seven fists and a half baked cakes in the furnace, and I felt that he was full of confidence in it.

The two people who make sesame cakes live in different times. I believe that a life of seven and a half fists will be more reasonable and better than that of a monk.

Maybe this is just my hope.

1988 65438+February 7th

Appreciation of Wu Da Monk and Seven and a Half Fists;

"Wu Da Monk and Seven and a Half Fists" is Wang Zengqi's essay in 1980s. This article, like his other essays, is plain and simple, just a matter of writing. Both language and structure are sparse. You see, the author started with tea and sesame cakes, and immediately mentioned the monk Wu who made sesame cakes more than forty years ago. Then he introduced in detail the two kinds of sesame cakes and the practice of "jumping noodles" there, and then talked about the pattern of the Wu family, family situation and the experience of the monk Wu. Finally, he came back and wrote seven and a half fists. At first glance, this article gives the impression that the author's writing is sloppy and disorganized. Putting monk Wu and seven fists and a half together seems to make no sense, just like gossiping. When Zhang San talks about Li Si, he talks about Li Si because of the speaker's interest, and there is no overall consideration. It seems that too much pen and ink is used to write sesame cakes and jump noodles. This unconventional layout is unacceptable for a while. In fact, this is exactly what Wang Zengqi called "random" and what we call structural "sparse" characteristics.

When the author writes like this, there seems to be no rules. In fact, the rules and regulations are deeply hidden in the author's mind, but what the author pursues is to set up a vivid pen inadvertently and touch the infinite charm of simplicity and nature at will. (Published inNo. 19, China Daily, High School Edition 20 12)