Su Dongpo, a generation of literary giants, can be called the spokesman of the literary and art circles in the Northern Song Dynasty. Now if you enter Su Dongpo's entry casually in Baidu, you will get the following information: Su Shi, Zi Zizhan,No. Dongpo Jushi, known as Su Dongpo in the world, Han nationality, a native of Meishan, Meizhou, Northern Song Dynasty (now Meishan, Sichuan), a famous writer, calligrapher and painter in Northern Song Dynasty. ......
However, Su Dongpo's image among the people is not so rigid. On the contrary, because he is good at literature and art, good at cooking, and humorous and open-minded, he left a warm-hearted and lovely uncle image to future generations.
Words can give off a rose-like fragrance and sublimate things in the world into bright stars, thus spreading through the ages. Similarly, in the face of a gluttonous feast, Su Dongpo's cultural eating method is not called eating, but called food.
Taking books as wings, let's take such an interesting soul through thousands of years ago and through his delicious kitchen.
In Su Dongpo's style, if we can have dinner with him, we should not be invited to eat: steamed mutton, steamed bear's paw, steamed deer's tail, roast duck, roast chicken, roasted goose, braised salted duck, sauce chicken, pine belly, sausage and so on. One is too expensive and the other is too vulgar.
Because he is the unique Su Dongpo, the dishes on his dining table will certainly bloom with the same charm as poetry.
1: Braised pork and Dongpo pork;
Clean the pot, no water, no firewood.
Don't rush him when he is ripe, he will be beautiful when the heat is enough.
Huangzhou good pork, the price is as cheap as dirt.
If you refuse to eat, the poor can't cook.
Get up in the morning and play two bowls, which are full, so don't worry at all.
-"ode to pork"
In the third year of Yuanfeng in Song Shenzong (A.D. 1080), Su Dongpo was demoted to Huangzhou (present-day Huanggang Dynasty in Hubei) because he was trapped in five poetry cases. At that time, the society was dominated by mutton, and Huangzhou was isolated and poor. The people could not afford mutton and did not know the cooking method of pork. After Su Dongpo took office, he personally staged a happy kitchen show: a big iron pot and a slow fire. A delicious and cheap meal was taught to the people by personal practice, and later evolved into fat but not greasy Dongpo meat, so there was such a song "Ode to Pork".
Nowadays, Dongpo meat sold in street shops can be seen everywhere in Su Dongpo's hometown Meishan. History has once again proved that store signs, no matter how grandiose, are not as good as cultural brands with connotations.
2: Boiled fish
Still in Huangzhou, because the land is on the river bank, Huangzhou is rich in aquatic products. When Su Dongpo was in Huangzhou, he wrote The Method of Cooking Fish:
"In Huangzhou, it is good to cook fish yourself. Methods: Fresh crucian carp or carp were used to treat fish in cold water. If you put salt in the classroom, you can write with water shield, but it's still mud. Scallion stalks, uncovered, boiled. Ginger, radish juice, wine, each a little, the three equal, mix well. When it is ripe, eating orange peel will be delicious. "
The content is very detailed, which is basically equivalent to a recipe. However, the practice of "river boiled fish" still circulating in the Yangtze River in Hubei Province is exactly the same as that of Su Dongpo thousands of years ago: clean up the fresh fish, cut the fish into knives, put them in a boiling water pot and stew them with low fire. At the same time, add seasonings such as ginger, onion and orange peel to the pot, and add salt when taking out the pot to make the soup white, smooth and delicious.
3: Stewed puffer fish
Two or three peach blossoms outside the bamboo forest and ducks in the water first noticed the warm spring.
The beach is covered with wormwood, asparagus is beginning to sprout, and puffer fish are preparing to swim upstream from the sea back to the river.
This is a poem written by Su Dongpo for his friend Hui Chong's painting "Night Scene of the Spring River", which has also appeared in the Chinese textbook of junior middle school people's education edition. But there is no puffer fish in the original painting. The so-called "just when the puffer fish wants to reach the top" is just a deep memory of Su Dongpo's delicious food.
Because when Su Dongpo was in Changzhou, he left a joke about eating puffer fish to death. Sun Yi, a contemporary of Su Dongpo, recorded such an interesting story in his book Xiuzi:
Dongpo lives in Changzhou, and is quite addicted to puffer fish, but the scholar-officials are good at cooking fish, so it is necessary to recruit Dongpo to enjoy it. Women and children gathered behind the screen to smell a word. Dongpo chewed for a long time and was silent. The host was gloomy, and the scenery behind the screen was disappointed and took care of each other. Dongpo suddenly sighed loudly: "Death is worth it!" We are very happy together.
However, Changzhou, located in the south of the Yangtze River, now has a sweet diet. I don't know whether the puffer fish Su Dongpo ate at that time was braised or stewed. According to his student Zhang Lei in Ming Dow magazine, the natives in the Yangtze River eat puffer fish, "but it is cooked with Artemisia selengensis and bamboo shoots, that is, reed buds and water shield." Therefore, if Su Dongpo hadn't personally tasted the three-fresh stewed puffer fish, it would not have been possible to write that "the reed buds on the ground are short, and it is the time when puffer fish want to go up." Such a poem.
4: Roasted lamb chops
During Shao Shengyuan's reign in Song Zhezong (A.D. 1094), Su Dongpo was demoted to Huizhou, Guangdong Province because of the dispute between the new party and the old party. Guangdong in the Song Dynasty was not today's reform and opening-up city, but it was also a wild place at that time. There are very few people selling pork in Huizhou city, and the only vegetable market only kills one sheep every day. Su Dongpo said that he "did not dare to compete with officials to buy".
However, based on his obsession with food, Su Dongpo creatively invented a new way to eat. Because the gap between sheep bones is small, the mutton between spines can't be picked up at all. After Su Dongpo bought sheep bones at a low price, he cooked them first, then poured cooking wine, dipped them in salt and put them on the fire for barbecue. Because there is little meat in sheep bones, you need to pick it with bamboo sticks and eat it slowly after roasting, so you should "pick it all day" and taste like a crab.
Su Dongpo, who is in adversity, does not forget to share it with his younger brother Su Zhe at this time. He wrote excitedly: Huizhou is vast and sparsely populated, but a sheep is killed every day. There is still a little meat between the bones. When cooked, sprinkle with hot air, bake with wine and salt at will, eat lightly, and pick your teeth all day, such as crab claws. My son has been in church for three years. He is full of teeth and bones. How did you know the smell after bullying him? Although this is a joke, it is very useful. But being fed by a dog is not pleasant.
He not only introduced the method of making roast lamb chops in detail, but also remembered his humor at last, because his righteous words offended his colleagues in the court. He even offended all the dogs in Huizhou because of a lamb chop. The river of no return, how many people can be so calm in adversity?
Step 5 stew oysters:
Three years later, Su Dongpo was exiled to Hainan Island, which was a poetic corner of countless people's hearts. But what Su Dongpo saw in those days was the endless sea and the Li nationality whose life was almost primitive.
The local aborigines may not have much interest in this stranger's poems and paintings, but Su Dongpo's optimistic and open-minded nature finally infected them. Under their guidance, Su Dongpo, a literary giant who had been living in the inland before, taught himself oysters and felt the delicious seafood from then on. He even wrote to a friend to introduce oysters, and he did not forget to ridicule: "If doctors in China and North Korea don't know about this, they will be afraid to migrate to the south to share the taste."
Now it seems that Su Dongpo is obviously a carnivore who pursues appetite. Psychologically speaking, carnivores are usually easy to get along with, optimistic and open-minded, and have a strong romantic character, which is undoubtedly the best interpretation of Su Dongpo's character.
The world of mortals is long and life is short. Su Dongpo not only left us delicious food, but more importantly, he set a benchmark for modern people with his words and deeds: in the face of unexpected setbacks in life, he needs to talk to life with some calmness. Practice the open-mindedness of life with a little detachment, blend into the excitement of life with a little calmness, appreciate the breadth of life with a little calmness, and live the infinite meditation of life with a little calmness. ...