At the beginning of the founding of Tsinghua University, someone adapted the school song like this: "The shovels are clanging, the bells are clanging, all the students come to the cafeteria. Chicken, duck and fish are stewed on a plate. Everyone raises chopsticks and cups. The rice bucket comes to a distant place, the food bucket comes to a distant place, and there is no food left. You have to grab it, and I have to grab it, because I have to grab it.”
In 1911. In the Tsinghua University cafeteria, the dining table for eight people has become a place where eating speed and skills are competed. The cafeteria is contracted to provide three meals a day to foreign businessmen. As soon as the meal bell rings, students lining up at the door rush in and sit on the seats with their student numbers. Some lower their heads and say nothing, just eating hard, while others will Play some tricks: pretend to let the people at the table tell a joke while you pick up the food like crazy.
After 14-year-old Liang Shiqiu entered Tsinghua University, he went from the "Middle School" cafeteria to the "Higher School" cafeteria for eight years. During this period, he bet with his roommates on a competition and set a record. A record of eating twelve steamed buns and three large bowls of noodles. He described in his novel "Chest War": "Dang Cang! Dang Cang! The ringing of the bell is ringing, and it's lunch time. As soon as it reaches Li Sheng's ears, he rushes out and goes straight to the canteen. He eats five bowls in a row and comes out with a bulging belly. . ” It seems to be a true reflection of myself. Liang Shiqiu had a rough life, but he was never ambiguous on the issue of "eating". He described himself as "a glutton for governing times and a breadwinner for troubled times." Wang Xuebin described him in his book "Confidence of the Republic of China": "When you are rich, you do whatever you want, spend money like water, and work hard. When you are poor, you find new ways and are ingenious. Spending a small amount of money can still make things on the plate come alive."
Liang Shiqiu is already a leader among foodies, but there are still people in Tsinghua who are not satisfied. Zhao Yuanren’s wife Yang Buwei wrote in her autobiography: “There are two large kitchens in Tsinghua University, and they always have the same dishes, and my own cook is not easy to use. Yuanren felt tired of it after a few days... I worked with a few The two wives discussed why not hire some good cooks, and everyone agreed. On March 14, 1927, Yang Buwei hired a chef from "Wufangzhai", a small restaurant on the right in front of the gate of Tsinghua University and opposite the south courtyard. A restaurant opened by the river with a small bridge on the river, so it was named "Xiaoqiao Restaurant".
In Beiping, which still has a strong feudal atmosphere, many people do not agree with this practice of "Wen Jun serves as a monk", but Dongming, the Queen of the Kingdom, was very impressed by this past event: "Xiaoqiao Food Society" Most of the dishes served were southern dishes. I only remember a kind of sesame cake, which was crispy and crispy, much like the current crab shells. Compared with Beijing's tough sesame sauce sesame cake, it had a completely different flavor. "Because Yang Buwei was too hospitable and hospitable. The social costs were higher than the income, and it closed after a few months.
In addition to Yang Buwei, physics professor Ye Qisun is also a provider of delicious food. After coming to Tsinghua in 1925, Ye Qisun has been living at No. 7, Tsinghua North Park, which was originally a residence for foreign professors. A coworker was responsible for taking care of his life. According to the memory of Ye Qisun's nephew Ye Minghan: "This co-worker can cook, and several professors who are single or do not live in Beijing eat there." The professors took the opportunity to have meals to discuss the school's education reform issues, which was called "Beiyuan" Rice Ball No. 7”. There are also academic celebrities such as Jin Yuelin and Ye Gongchao in this group, which can be regarded as an example of "taotie may not necessarily be a real celebrity". Before 2006, Tsinghua canteens were numbered directly from Canteen No. 1 to Canteen No. 15. The well-known blogger "North Point Mountain Demon" said: "The eggplants in Canteen No. 7 and the pasta in Canteen No. 6 seriously affected everyone's understanding of the restaurant. The taste of gourmet food. To this day, garlic must be added when eating roasted eggplant.”
But then these numerical names gradually faded out of our sight: the Eight Canteens were changed to bowling alleys, and now they are Quantum Information. center; the ninth cafeteria was converted into a laboratory for the Department of Automotive; the twelfth cafeteria was converted into a table tennis hall and a student employment center. Before 2006, Tsinghua University’s canteens 1-2 were faculty canteens and 3-15 were student canteens. Today, canteens 3, 4, 5, 6, and 12 no longer exist. The buildings of canteens 8, 9, and 15 still exist, but they have been used for other purposes. The old canteens still operating in the student area include: Canteen 7 (Qingfenyuan), Canteen 10 (Tingtao Garden), Canteen 11 (Wenxinyuan), Canteen 13 (Qingqing Fast Food), Canteen 14 (Dingxiangyuan).
On the wall tiles of Tingtao Garden, you can clearly see its evolution history: "Completed in July 1981, it was originally named Shishitang and was renamed Tingtao Garden in December 2006. ... Qingfeng When Xu arrived, the teachers and students listened to Lin Tao in the distance and watched the water waves while eating. "
In 2006, the Fourteenth Canteen and the Flavor Restaurant were renamed Lilac Garden and Qingfen Garden respectively. After the demolition and merging of the No. 3, No. 4, No. 5 and No. 6 canteens, the food plaza, Ten Canteen and Taoyuan Restaurant are named after Guan, Ting and Wen. The east and west lines are Guanchou, Tingtao and Wenxin respectively. All new names have been carefully considered by the school. Wenxinyuan comes from the saying in "Shuowen Jiezi" that "Xin is the one who smells the fragrance from afar". Qingfenyuan is taken from "the clear fragrance is tall and beautiful, Chinese "Zenghui" stone carving.
Before this, the faculty canteens had been named Lotus Garden, Yuyuan, South Garden, North Garden, etc. The names of several canteens in the north of the school form a pattern dominated by flowers and plants: Bauhinia, Lilac, Peach and Plum, Zhilan, and Yushu.
Teacher Wang Jianhua from the School of Journalism and Communication said: “Nowadays, many old Tsinghua alumni come back to look for the Seven Canteens and ask students on the way. Almost no one knows where it is, and the sense of history seems to be gone.
"There are many old alumni who feel this way. Guo Ning, a 2002 student in the Department of Engineering Physics, said in Renren's diary in 2009: "I really miss the days when numbers were used to sort numbers. It was simple, catchy, easy to remember, and had history. feel. It's not that I can't remember the new name, but I really don't want to forget the old name. Can alumni who have graduated decades ago come back and follow their names to find the place that held so many memories? ”
Most Tsinghua students today cannot understand the deep remembrance of old alumni, but they will remember the long queues before Qingfen Garden was renovated. In the spring semester of 2013, Qingfen closed down and the new The students from the three-character class and the four-character class who came here only knew about the "Southern District Student Canteen Renovation Project" surrounded by the intersection, but they had no chance to meet those early mornings while memorizing vocabulary while waiting for Xiao Long Bao.
But when enjoying delicious food, the name of the cafeteria is not important. What we remember is Taoli’s pancakes and Zijing’s iron plate, Tingtao’s fried noodles and Yushu’s hollow noodles, even though Lanyuan and Yuyuan are far away from the dormitory. Wu Ping, a 2012 undergraduate student in the Department of Engineering Physics, still often goes there to satisfy his cravings. "The boiled fish and boiled meat in Lanyuan taste good, and the Shaanxi flavor in Yuyuan is very authentic. There are no subsidies for these two canteens, and they are not as good in terms of price or location." Advantages, but I still eat it occasionally. Liang Xiao, a 2013 undergraduate student at the Graduate School of Education, entered Tsinghua University as a graduate student. Her most direct impression of Tsinghua’s cafeteria is that “there are many varieties and a lot of choices.” Taoli and Bauhinia are now major student centers. The reputation of the fourth floor has always been very good, and the scrambled eggs with tomatoes, meat slices, and potatoes are all very good," she said. "Making it delicious is king, but in the end, what you eat is all about emotion. " Among the things that Tsinghua people are proud of, the "Production address: On the campus of Tsinghua University" printed on the soymilk should be considered one of them.
The busy Xinmin Road and Xuetang Road during the day are at night. It was peaceful and quiet, and the trucks that drove into the campus did not disturb the sweet dreams of the students after a busy day. The story of breakfast in the garden started with the large trucks delivering ingredients.
The original No. 15 Canteen is now. In the soy products and dairy production workshop, all the magical chemical reactions between soybeans and brine take place here. Around one o'clock in the morning, the staff are fully equipped with dark blue work clothes, hats, gloves, and waterproof boots. The garden is the sweetest at night. The place is right here. The strong bean aroma is mixed with the slightly astringent brine. After several processing and packaging processes, it is processed in the soy product filling room into the warm and fragrant bottled soy milk that we hold in our hands in the early morning. It has been sent to various canteens at 5 o'clock.
In Tsinghua, food runs on the production line significantly faster than in other places. Most food processing workshops use automated production lines, and the ingredients in each canteen are centralized. Processing to ensure an adequate supply of delicious food.
Summer is about to begin, and the homemade ice cream with "Tsinghua Cold Drink" in the carton has been placed in the canteen's freezer, including fresh milk, drinking water, white sugar, and egg powder. Edible vegetable oil... simple food ingredients, but combined with a whole summer of memories for Tsinghua people. The ice cream workshop in the Tsinghua canteen uses a stainless steel fully enclosed automated production line with a daily production capacity of 2 tons.
Compared to ice cream. Girls who are afraid of getting fat may prefer yogurt and sour plum soup. In 2014, the cafeteria launched a new sweet-scented osmanthus plum soup. The sales volume in the peak season can reach 5,000 cups a day. When the heat is unbearable, you can drink a cup of sour plum soup in one go and your taste buds will be hit by the sour plum. Kissed. According to statistics from the food center in 2014, the sales of homemade sour plum soup and yogurt accounted for 70% of the total sales of various drinks in the canteen.
Dumplings also happily run on the assembly line every time they are in season. During the winter solstice, the supply of dumplings is often in short supply. In 2011, the catering center established a dumpling production line. It used to require more than 60 employees to supply dumplings in each cafeteria, but now only 9 people can basically complete it. During the winter solstice, students in the north always eat dumplings. It feels like home. The warmest thing at this moment is to take a bite of the thin-skinned pork and green onion dumplings, take out your mobile phone and ask your family members in your hometown, "Pack on more clothes when the weather is cold."
Tsinghua University. The food ingredients in the canteen come from a wide range of sources, and we are very likely to eat green food transported from our hometown. In June 2005, the catering service center established the first green food procurement base in the Changbai Mountain area, mainly supplying fungus. 12 bases have been established in Qing'an, Heilongjiang, Ulanqab, Inner Mongolia, Mengyin, Shandong, and Zhongning, Ningxia. The direct supply of raw materials such as meat, flour, eggs, potatoes, carrots, etc. has kept prices in Tsinghua canteens stable. In 2007, the Beijing News even ran the headline "The price of food in Peking University canteens has increased, and some students go to Tsinghua University to eat."
"I remember that night when summer entered Zicao, the lighted bridge and the moonlight were just right," sang the theme song "Youth Who Knows the Laughter" of "Hui Xiao Tian Xia". In April, when the delicious food in various canteens is constantly teasing the tongue, there is also a long queue in front of the bridge at night, with many bicycles parked silently waiting for their owners. From squid and crab steaks to quail eggs and tofu, they are delivered from the "sizzling" iron plate into the greedy mouth, and the fragrance floats across the bridge and flows into the moonlight. Sometimes we get tired of the same "China's ninth major cuisine" canteen dishes. Fortunately, new canteens or new dishes can always appease us in time.
“We went there at around 4:30 in the afternoon and got the number 1. We finally waited!” said Li Mingqian from the three-character class in the School of Life Sciences.
The Zhilanyuan Hotpot, which has been waiting for a long time, has been open for business since April 3 and is very popular among students. "We went there around 5 pm on the first day of the trial opening. We waited in line for more than half an hour and still didn't get there," she recalled. "We went there again last weekend night. There were too many people, and we were frustrated foodies. Way!"
Li Mingqian and her boyfriend Qiu Shi from the Department of Civil Engineering are both food lovers. In her words, "As two foodies, wherever new products are released, we will be there. Yushu Er She has tried almost all the dishes in the restaurant.” Taking stock of Yushu delicacies, she said: “I recommend the red bean glutinous rice balls for late night snacks. All kinds of porridge are good, and all kinds of noodles are soft and good. The glutinous rice chicken is spicy and oily, but the meat is very good. "The mushroom buns look good."
From eating Xiangguo to Laowan Fish, going to Qingqing Pizza to Yushu Pai for late-night snacks, Li Mingqian said with a smile: "The cafeteria is our second matchmaker. After we get together, we eat together whenever we want to, which can effectively increase the frequency of our meetings. We spend time together in a garden filled with delicious food. Love and food are something we can’t live up to, and then we live up to my weight.”
As early as 2001, the school intentionally introduced fast food brands to campus to meet the needs of teachers and students. However, in order to ensure a favorable price, the catering center opened Tsinghua's own Western-style fast food restaurant in 2002. It was named Qingqing Fast Food Restaurant after taking the word "Qing" from Tsinghua and the word "Qing" from Qinghua. Since then, Qingqing Yonghe based on King Yonghe, Qingqing Pizza based on Pizza Hut, Qingqing Casual Restaurant based on Xianzonglin, Zhilan Buffet, Qingqing Noodle Bar, and Yushu-style fast food have also appeared on campus.
The activities of "Celebrity Chefs Entering Tsinghua University" and "Chinese Snacks and Food Festival" have left some reservation windows amidst the strong voices of students. In recent months, Shengquan's WeChat public account "Ai Shengquan" "On the canteen, new notices came one after another. Guo Ye, director of the life and rights department of the school student union, said: "It may be that there were fewer reports before, but the school has indeed accelerated the speed of providing new dishes recently, and the cafeteria is very attentive."
"Communication with the school food center The channels are very open. If you have any problems, please report them directly to the teacher, and students will also communicate with the teacher about their needs for new dishes,” Guo Ye said. At the first reception day for school leaders this year, Sheng Quan proposed a proposal to “increase the supply of fresh milk in the canteen.” And when Tsinghua celebrated its 104th anniversary at the end of April, pure milk was already lying at the beverage window in the cafeteria. In the intersection between Tsinghua students and the canteen, there is now another bag of warm milk. In Tsinghua, food is like a talisman, protecting us even when we go to the ends of the world and overcome obstacles, but we still never forget it. The oily and spicy hotpot is filled with the fragrance of the little lamb; the crispy fried milk can be eaten in one bite, and you can have a dessert again; the delicious green onion soup in the old earthenware pot can no longer contain the deliciousness... They are there every day We are waiting for you in every corner of the cafeteria, waiting to meet and get to know you who love life.
Judging the quality of a university from the quality of its cafeteria seems to be a somewhat absurd analysis, but you have to admit that when you look back at university, there are always many memories related to the cafeteria. Those voices calling for friends and the anxiously waiting team made all the time feel palpable. The food is changing, the location and name of the canteen are changing, and the people passing by are changing. The youth story that is inseparable from the canteen is played out in the student days of every Tsinghua student.