The development of brewing technology in China can be divided into two stages. The first stage is natural fermentation, which has gone through thousands of years, and the traditional fermentation technology has developed from gestation to maturity. Even in modern times, natural fermentation technology has not completely disappeared. Some of these mysteries remain to be solved. People mainly make wine by experience, and the production scale is generally small, which is basically manual operation. There is no reliable detection index to ensure the quality of wine.
The second stage began in the Republic of China. Due to the introduction of western scientific and technological knowledge, especially microbiology, biochemistry and engineering knowledge, the traditional brewing technology has undergone tremendous changes. People understand the mystery of the micro-world of brewing, the labor intensity in production is greatly reduced, the level of mechanization is improved, and the quality of wine is more guaranteed.
China's yellow rice wine, also known as rice wine, belongs to brewing and occupies an important position in the world's three major winemaking (yellow rice wine, wine and beer). Brewing technology is unique and has become a typical representative and model of oriental brewing industry.
First, yellow rice wine brewing raw materials:
Yellow rice wine is a kind of wine brewed with grain and wheat koji or Xiaoqu as saccharifying starter. In history, the raw material for producing yellow rice wine was millet (scientific name: Setaria italica, which was the general name of glutinous rice, sorghum, millet and millet in ancient times, sometimes called Liang, and now it is also called millet, millet after hulling). In the south, rice (especially glutinous rice) is widely used as raw material for brewing yellow rice wine. Since the Song Dynasty, the political, cultural and economic centers have moved south, and the production of yellow rice wine is limited to several southern provinces. The production of shochu began in the Southern Song Dynasty, and it became popular in the North in the Yuan Dynasty. The output of yellow rice wine in the north is gradually shrinking, and drinking soju in the south is not as common as that in the north. In the south, the production of yellow rice wine was preserved. During the Qing Dynasty, Shaoxing yellow rice wine in the south dominated both at home and abroad. At present, rice wine production is mainly concentrated in Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Shanghai, Fujian, Jiangxi, Guangdong, Anhui and other places, with a small amount of production in Shandong, Shaanxi and Dalian. Second, the name of yellow rice wine
Yellow rice wine belongs to brewing wine, and its alcohol content is generally around 15 degrees.
Yellow rice wine, as its name implies, is yellow rice wine. So some people translated the name of yellow rice wine into "yellow rice wine". In fact, this is not appropriate. The color of rice wine is not always yellow. In ancient times, when the filtration technology of wine was not mature, wine was turbid, which was called "white wine" or turbid wine at that time. The color of yellow rice wine is black and red even now, which can't be understood literally. The essence of rice wine should be made of grain, and it is more appropriate to call it "rice wine" because it can represent grain. Nowadays, "yellow rice wine" is widely used to represent yellow rice wine.
In modern times, yellow rice wine is the general name of grain-brewed wine. Liquor brewed from grain (excluding distilled liquor) can be classified as yellow rice wine. Although yellow rice wine is the general name of grain-brewed wine, some folk areas still retain some traditional names of local brewed and sold wines, such as Jiangxi Shuijiu, Shaanxi Thick Wine, Tibet Highland Barley Wine and so on. If they insist on yellow rice wine, the locals may not accept it.
In ancient times, "wine" was the general term for all wines. In the historical period before the emergence of distilled liquor, "wine" was brewing. After distilled shochu appeared, it became more complicated. The name "wine" is not only the general name of all wines, but also the general name of grain-brewed wines in some occasions, such as Li Shizhen? lt； & lt； At that time, liquor was divided into three categories: liquor, shochu and wine. Among them, the "wine" part is all the wine brewed by grain. Since wine is not only the general name of all wines, but also the general name of grain-brewed wine, after all, there should be a general name that only includes grain-brewed wine. Therefore, it is not accidental that yellow rice wine appears as a special name for grain brewing wine.
"Yellow rice wine" in Ming Dynasty may refer to rice wine with long brewing time and deep color, which is different from "white wine". The "white wine" of the Ming Dynasty is not distilled shochu now. For example, there was "Sanjiu Liquor" in the Ming Dynasty, which was brewed with white rice, white koji and white water, and the brewing time was short. The wine is cloudy and white. The formation of yellow (or dark brown) of wine is mainly due to Maillard reaction between sugar and amino acids during cooking or storage of wine, resulting in pigment. There are also some pigments made of caramel (called "sugar color") to deepen its color. Dai, editor-in-chief of Ming Dynasty & gt Volume 11 has: "If you add less soju to yellow rice wine and white wine, it will not be sour overnight". From this formulation, we can clearly see the difference between yellow wine, white wine and shochu. Yellow rice wine refers to old wine with long brewing time, and white wine refers to rice wine with short brewing time (generally, white koji, that is, rice koji, is used as saccharifying starter). In the Ming dynasty, the specificity of the name yellow rice wine was not very strict. Although it can't contain all the grain-brewed wines, at least large-scale wines brewed in southern China can be included in the brewing process. In the Qing Dynasty, although the production of brewing wine was retained in various places, Shaoxing's old wine and rice wine were popular all over the country. This kind of wine was sold all over the country at that time, with high quality and dark color, which may have something to do with the final establishment of the name "yellow rice wine". Because the Qing emperor had a special interest in Shaoxing wine. Did it happen in the Qing dynasty? Quot there is no shochu, only yellow wine. " By the time of the Republic of China, yellow rice wine as the general name of grain brewing wine had been basically determined. Yellow rice wine belongs to local wine (domestic wine is called local wine to show that it corresponds to foreign wine in Borapin).
The development of brewing technology in China can be divided into two stages. The first stage is natural fermentation, which has gone through thousands of years, and the traditional fermentation technology has developed from gestation to maturity. Even in modern times, natural fermentation technology has not completely disappeared. Some of these mysteries remain to be solved. People mainly make wine by experience, and the production scale is generally small, which is basically manual operation. There is no reliable detection index to ensure the quality of wine. The second stage began in the Republic of China. Due to the introduction of western scientific and technological knowledge, especially microbiology, biochemistry and engineering knowledge, the traditional brewing technology has undergone tremendous changes. People understand the mystery of the micro-world of brewing, the labor intensity in production is greatly reduced, the level of mechanization is improved, and the quality of wine is more guaranteed.
Brewing technology before Han dynasty
Because of the long history, it is difficult to tell the true face of how wine-making technology developed before the Han Dynasty, and we can only speculate from sporadic written materials and archaeological materials.
First of all, look at wine-making from ancient wine-making instruments:
The brewing technology before written records can only be analyzed from its brewing apparatus. Fortunately, in 1979, an archaeologist from China discovered a complete set of wine-making utensils dating back 5,000 years in Dawenkou cultural tomb of Lingyin River in Juxian County, Shandong Province, which provided extremely valuable information for uncovering the mystery of wine-making technology at that time. This set of wine-making equipment includes a pot for cooking, a big mouth for fermentation, a leaky pot for filtering wine and a pot for storing wine. In the same place, more than 100 drinking utensils were found, such as single-ear cups, clamshell cups and high-handle cups. According to the analysis of archaeologists, the tomb owner may have been a professional winemaker before his death. (Wang Shuming: Brewing in the Late Dawenkou Culture, << Cooking in China >>, 1987 No.9).
1974 and 1985, archaeologists discovered a complete brewing workshop in Taixi, Gaocheng, Hebei Province. The facilities are similar to Dawenkou culture period.
Judging from the configuration of brewing equipment, in ancient times, the basic process of brewing included cooking, fermentation, filtration and wine storage of grain. Steamed raw materials are convenient for microbial koji making, and are also easy to be decomposed by enzymes, fermented into wine, and then filtered to remove distiller's grains to obtain wine liquid (it is not excluded that the prepared wine mash can be eaten directly). These techniques and these simple utensils are the most basic elements of wine making. It is basically consistent with the types of objects depicted in the murals of the tomb of the king of the fifth dynasty in ancient Egypt. Because there are cooking utensils (pottery ding or general helmet) in the combination of brewing instruments, it shows that the brewing raw materials are cooked first and then brewed, and it can be further speculated that brewing with koji may be one of the brewing methods five thousand years ago. Because the cooked raw materials basically no longer germinate, they can be cultured into koji. According to the combination of brewing equipment, of course, the method of tillering to brew grain cannot be ruled out. & lt& lt Huangdi Neijing Lingshu >; There is a passage in the book that also shows that cooking materials are one of the ancient steps. Its text reads: "The drinker, ..., the liquid of cooked grain is also." In <<>'s On Soup and Fermented Grains, "The Yellow Emperor asked,' What can we do with the soup and fermented grains of five grains?' "Zeebe said to him,' The rice should be cooked, the rice should be done well, and the rice salary should be firm'. This also shows that when brewing glutinous rice, rice should be cooked with rice salary. In a word, brewing wine with cooked raw materials shows that koji is very common. Liquor-making by Qu was one of the main methods of liquor-making in China later. Of course & gt was written by later generations, and it is still difficult to confirm whether these statements can really reflect the ancient situation.
2. Brewing in Shang and Zhou Dynasties:
1, Shang Dynasty
Drinking was very popular among nobles in Shang dynasty, which can be confirmed by a large number of bronze wine vessels that have been excavated. At that time, alcoholic beverages included wine, beer and beer.
Tillering beer brewing may also be one of the brewing techniques in ancient China. Oracle Bone Inscriptions in Shang Dynasty recorded grains and tillers. This content can refer to the first chapter of the Origin of Wine.
2. < Zhou Li >> "Five Appliances" and "Three Wines" in China, a set of institutions was established in the Western Zhou Dynasty to strictly manage brewing and the use of wine. First of all, in this institution, there are specialized technical personnel, fixed winemaking methods and wine quality standards. Just like & gt book records: "Nine Righteousness, Four Sergeant, Eight Corporal, Two Magistrates, Eight History". "Wine is the law in charge of wine, and the material of wine is awarded by Fa Shang ... The name of five qi is Pan Qi, Qi Qi, Angqi, Qi Qi and Shen Qi." Distinguish three kinds of wine, one is wine, the other is old wine and the third is sake. "Five Qi" can be understood as five stages in the brewing process, and in some cases, it can also be understood as five different specifications of wine.
"Three wines", namely, physical wine, past wine and sake. Probably the classification of palace wines in the Western Zhou Dynasty. Event wine is specially prepared for sacrifice. It is brewed temporarily when something happens, so the brewing cycle is short. After brewing, the wine can be used immediately without storage. Yesterday's wine was stored wine. Sake is probably the highest-grade wine, and it probably has to go through the steps of filtration and clarification. This shows that the brewing technology is relatively perfect. Because for a long time in ancient times, wine and distiller's grains were eaten directly without separation.
3. < < The Book of Rites >; "Six musts" in the book.
The Book of Rites, which reflected various etiquette systems before Qin and Han Dynasties, was written in the Western Han Dynasty, with the comments of Zheng Xuan in the Eastern Han Dynasty. It records a passage that is still regarded as the essence of brewing technology: "Midwinter Moon is the chief, rice must be neat, tillering must be timely, Nian Chi must be clean, water springs must be fragrant, pottery must be good, fire must win, and six things can be done at the same time. It makes no difference (>) that the chief supervises it. "Although there are not many words, the" Six Exquisites "involve a wide range of contents and are indispensable, which are the six principles to be mastered in brewing. From now on, these six principles still have guiding significance.
4. Ancient Jiujiu
"Wine" is a kind of high-grade wine in ancient times. & lt& lt The Book of Rites and the Monthly Order; Among them: "The moon in Qiu Meng, the son of heaven drinks". News & gt The explanation is that wine is triple wine. Does triple wine mean adding secondary rice koji or secondary brewed wine to the wine mash? There is no clear explanation in the record, but one feature of fermented wine is that it is more mellow than ordinary wine, so there are two possibilities. However, from the pre-Qin era, according to the Chinese brewing method, adding good wine three times to the obtained mash is probably the brewing method of mash.
Third, the oldest record of the brewing process.
Although there are many words about wine in Oracle Bone Inscriptions in Shang Dynasty, it is difficult to find a complete record of the wine-making process. As for the brewing technology of the Zhou Dynasty, we can only speculate based on a few words.
Silk Books Unearthed from the Tomb of the Western Han Dynasty in Mawangdui, Changsha & gt And> We can see the earliest record of wine-making technology found in China so far.
Among them, there is an example of the production method of "Lao Li Zhong", which includes ten processes.
Because this is the earliest complete written record of brewing technology in China, and everything reflected in the book is from the pre-Qin period, it has high research value. The general process is as follows:
Medicinal materials → Chopping → Soaking (boiling) to get juice → Brewing ← (water).
│ ↓
│ bibimbap/cooked rice/cooked rice
└─→↓
ferment
↓
Wine mash/medicinal materials
↓
Good wine → Continue to ferment.
↓
medicinal liquor
From the above, we can find that the wine-making in the pre-Qin period has the following characteristics: using two kinds of koji, first soaking koji and making wine with koji juice. In the later stage of fermentation, good wine was added into the mash three times. Is this an old saying? Quot "three degrees of wine", that is, the unique technology of "fermented wine"
Brewing technology from Han Dynasty to Sui Dynasty
First, the brewing technology of the Han Dynasty
Since the Qin and Han Dynasties, due to political unity, social productive forces have developed rapidly and the level of agricultural production has been greatly improved, which has provided a material basis for the prosperity of the wine industry.
Han Dynasty stone reliefs unearthed from a balcony in Zhucheng, Shandong Province, have pictures of kitchens. Some pictures depict the situation of wine making and show the whole process of wine making at that time. A man was kneeling and pounding music, and there was a clay pot beside him for making music. One person is cooking with firewood, one is chopping firewood, one is fiddling with rice at the edge of retort, and one is responsible for filtering koji juice into rice and stirring the fermented mash evenly. There are two people in charge of filtering the wine, and one person is holding a spoon, probably to put the wine into the bottle. Below are the big barrels for fermentation, all of which are put in the wine cellar. Probably a man drank wine secretly and was being beaten after being found. The wine is probably filtered in silk bags and squeezed dry by hand. The filtered wine is put into a small bottle for further aging.
According to this picture, we can sort out the wine-making process route in the Eastern Han Dynasty:
Qukuai liquor-making raw materials
↓ ↓
Mashed and steamed
↓ ↓
Immersion cooling
↓ ↓
Filter the koji juice-→ put it in a vat for fermentation (wine cellar)
↓
filter
↓
Small mouth bottle
This wine-making process route can be said to be the main operation method of wine-making in the Han Dynasty and a long historical period before it.
Wang Mang, the new Han Dynasty, came to power and restored the monopoly of wine in the Western Han Dynasty. For this reason, the detailed proportion of brewing raw materials was formulated, that is, two kinds of coarse rice were used for one brewing and one kind of yeast was used for six kinds of wine. The wine yield is 220%, which is close to the present. It can also be seen that the amount of koji is very large (accounting for 50% of the rice used for brewing), indicating that the saccharification and fermentation ability of koji is not high.
At the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, Cao Cao found that the home brewing method of the late county magistrate in his hometown (Jiuyun Spring Wine Method) was novel and unique, and the wine produced was extremely mellow. Dedicate this side to Emperor Xian of Han Dynasty. This method is an important fed-batch fermentation method in the history of brewing and even fermentation. This method, modern said? Quot "Fed-batch fermentation" in fermentation engineering is classified as "fed-batch fermentation". Later, fed-batch fermentation became the most important feeding method for China yellow rice wine brewing. This method is widely used in winemaking in Qi Shu Yao Min.
"Jiuyun Spring Wine Method" means that in a fermentation cycle, the raw materials are not added all at once, but are put in nine times. This method is included in Qi Shu Yao Min. In this method, the starter is soaked first, and then added with a stone meter for the first time, and then added with a stone meter every three days, for a total of nine times. Cao Cao claimed that the quality of the wine brewed by this method was very good. So I recommended this method to the emperor at that time.
In addition to the above, what are the supplementary methods in Qi and Shu? Quot In addition to the decreasing feeding method, there are also increasing feeding methods. For example, the "_ _ rice wine law" of the "French wine 67" country adds 3 barrels of 3 liters for the first time, 6 barrels of 6 liters for the second time, 2 barrels of 2 liters for the third time and 2 barrels of 6 liters for the fourth time. The most important thing is to determine the feeding amount according to the strength of the heat.
Feeding was adopted in the Han Dynasty. Judging from the function of qu, it improves the quality of qu. This may be related to the street music that was widely used at that time. The number of Rhizopus and yeast in block koji is relatively more than that in Sanqu. Because these two kinds of microorganisms can reproduce in the fermentation broth, it is not necessary to use too many koji, and the culture can be expanded step by step. In essence, the feeding method also has the function of expanding culture step by step. The fact that Divine Comedy is rarely used in Qi Yao Min's Book illustrates this point.
According to Miscellanies of Xijing: Han system: ancestral temple drinks alcohol in August and uses nine grains too fast. The emperor served the shrine, making wine in the first month and in August. Called wine, called nine grains, is a kind of alcoholic liquor. "
Second, the brewing technology in Qi Shu Yao Min
Jia Sixie of the Northern Wei Dynasty wrote an immortal monograph on agricultural technology, Qi Yao Min Shu. As one of the agricultural and sideline products, wine production technology occupies a certain space. Among them, there were eight cases of koji making and more than forty cases of wine making. In fact, the winemaking methods collected in various regions (mainly in the north) since the Han Dynasty are the first time in the history of China to systematically summarize winemaking techniques. The technical route of wine-making is roughly the same as that of the Han Dynasty summarized above. But what's more commendable is that Qi Yaomin's Book summarizes many principles of wine-making technology, which still play a guiding role in modern times. 1, using the curved method
Liquor-making with Qu is a characteristic of our country, and how the ancients used Qu is worth studying. Qu is a saccharifying starter. In ancient times, it was regarded as the starter of fermentation. In ancient times, one of the key steps in brewing was to make koji into this kind of base material first, and the proper use of koji often decided the success or failure of brewing. Because Guqu is naturally inoculated with microorganisms, it is easy to pollute miscellaneous bacteria.
In ancient times, there were two ways to use qu. First, the koji is soaked in water, and after the koji starts (that is, after the enzyme preparation in the koji is dissolved and activated), the koji juice is filtered, and then the rice is put into it to start fermentation, which is called the koji soaking method. The other is to mash koji into fine powder and mix it directly with rice, which may be called "the method of bibimbap at the end of koji". The soaking method may be older than the bibimbap method at the end of koji. The soaking koji-making method is probably transformed from the soaking saccharification and fermentation of tillers (grain buds). Immersion is the most commonly used method in Han Dynasty and even Northern Wei Dynasty, which can be seen from the extensive use of immersion in Qi Yao Min Shu.
In ancient times, people learned that the water for brewing koji should be treated separately according to different seasons. The water brewed in winter can be directly soaked in distiller's yeast; After spring, when the temperature is high and the water is not clean, it is necessary to boil water. Boiled water cannot directly soak distiller's yeast, and it needs to be cooled before soaking distiller's yeast (boiling water will burn microorganisms in distiller's yeast and inactivate enzymes).
When soaking koji, it should also be noted that the soaking time should be determined according to the season and water temperature. To ensure the effect of dipping.
2, the use of acidic pulp
Saccharomyces cerevisiae likes to grow in acidic environment, and the optimum pH value is between 4.2 and 5.0. Some microorganisms, such as bacteria, grow easily in a neutral pH environment. It will be inhibited in the environment with low pH value. After adding water to rice, its pH value is often not in the range of 4.2-5.0. In order to overcome this contradiction, the ancients not only chose to make wine in winter when the temperature was low, but also adopted a bold and wise strategy of "treating acid with acid": sour pulp method. Originally, the taboo of wine-making was that the wine turned sour. However, the ancients skillfully used the strategy of acidification first and then brewing, which made the acidic environment in wine mash beneficial to the growth of beneficial bacteria, not conducive to the growth of spoilage bacteria (bacteria), but could inhibit the rancidity of wine. The earliest record of this method is Qi's Yao Min Shu. In "Qi Shu Yao Min", there are three cases in which the brewing method adopts the acid pulp method.
3. One of the important characteristics of solid and semi-solid fermentation of China yellow rice wine is the high concentration of solid matter in the fermented mash. Compared with foreign wine fermentation and beer fermentation, this feature is more obvious. Beer is also made of grain, and the ratio of malt to water in its mash is about 1:4.3. The mash of whisky is about 1:5.
The biography of Han Ping Dang is like a spring note: "A bucket of rice and a bucket of wine is the most important, a bucket of millet and a bucket of wine are the most important." A barrel of rice produces a barrel of wine, which shows that the concentration of uncooked rice in fermented mash is definitely high when brewing.
The ratio of brewing rice koji in the Wangmang period of the New Han Dynasty was 2: 1:6.6. This ratio is relatively common in China. The solid concentration in fermented mash is also much higher than that in beer fermented mash.
The solid concentration of fermented mash in Qi Yao Min Shu can be roughly divided into three types: one is extremely high concentration, such as _ _ yellow rice wine and _ _ yellow rice wine. The ratio of solid to water is 1:0.7-0.8, and the middle is about 1: 1. The rarest is Xiajiming wine, which is about 1:3. The fermentation time of this wine is less than 24 hours. It doesn't matter if you brew it at night and sell it the next morning. But anyway, most wines are stronger than beer.
According to Qi Yao Min's Book, the wine with the least water consumption is "_ _ rice wine" (a kind of French wine), but in fact, the least water is added, and the highest concentration should be several fermented wines. The characteristic of fermented rice wine is that it does not adopt the common dipping method and the common cooking method, but it is ground into powder and then steamed. Mix koji powder with steamed rice flour, and put it in a vat for fermentation, which is almost solid fermentation. Another feature of fermented wine method is that the brewing time is as long as seven or eight months, and the fermentation is basically carried out under closed conditions, that is, when rice flour is added with a small amount of water, it is put into an urn, which is relatively sealed and does not leak. Because the entry of foreign oxygen is basically isolated, fermentation is always in an anaerobic state. Conducive to alcohol fermentation. The wine brewed in this way is as thick as sesame oil. Those who can drink a barrel of good wine first will only be banned from drinking half a liter, or they will die if they don't drink three liters. Ordinary people will get as drunk as a fiddler, and twenty people will get drunk in a barrel of wine. Winners are paid. "
5. Temperature control
The ancients and modern people are nothing more than different expressions of the physical quantity temperature. To be exact, ancient people did not use numerical values, but used human body temperature or boiling water temperature as a reference to roughly determine what temperature range should be controlled during brewing. China people have mastered the key points of temperature control in each key link in the brewing process, which is fully reflected in Qi Yaomin's Book. This is the temperature control in the impregnation process; Temperature control during rice sowing: keeping proper fermentation temperature. 6. Brewing post-treatment technology
In the Northern Wei Dynasty, the post-processing technology of brewing was relatively simple. From the "kitchen map" on the stone reliefs in the Eastern Han Dynasty, it can be seen that wine is naturally filtered in silk bags and then squeezed by hand.
Qi Yao Min Shu mentioned the method of "swearing to drink". But how to "pledge" is not clear. For example, in "japonica rice wine", it is done like this: "If you make it clear, cover it with a pot and seal it with dense mud. After seven days, it was extremely clear, and the person who made it clear was taken down and sworn? quot。 First, let the liquor be clarified naturally. After sake is taken, the following distiller's grains are further pawned. In ancient Chinese characters, "pressing" means pressing from top to bottom with heavy objects. Press the distiller's grains dry. You can use a press plate and some kind of filter medium as matches to press down the distiller's grains, and a slightly clear liquor will be displayed again. I wonder if there were any special wooden pressing tools at that time.
Brewing technology in Tang and Song Dynasties
Firstly, the literature is briefly introduced.
The Tang and Song Dynasties were the most brilliant development period of yellow rice wine brewing technology in China. After thousands of years of practice, the traditional brewing experience has been sublimated and formed the traditional brewing theory. The traditional brewing technology, technical measures and main technological equipment of yellow rice wine have been basically finalized at the latest in the Song Dynasty. There are few complete literature on brewing technology left over from the Tang Dynasty, but scattered materials in other historical books are extremely rich. The literature of brewing technology in Song Dynasty is not only rich, but also rich in content and high in theoretical level.
In the history of China ancient brewing, the academic level is the highest, which can fully reflect the essence of China yellow wine brewing technology, and the most instructive monograph in brewing practice is Beishan Jiujing at the end of Northern Song Dynasty.
Beishan Jiujing is divided into three volumes, the first volume is Jingjing, which summarizes the important theories of winemaking in past dynasties and outlines the winemaking and koji-making in the whole book. The middle volume discusses the koji-making technology, including the formulas and preparation methods of more than ten kinds of koji. The second volume discusses brewing technology. Compared with the contents about koji-making and wine-making in Qi Yaomin's Book, Beishan Jiujing has obviously gone a step further. This paper not only lists the methods of koji-making and wine-making, but also analyzes the reasons. Therefore, it has more theoretical guiding significance.
If the Nine Classics of Beishan is a model to explain the brewing technology of large-scale brewing workshops, then Su Shi's Nine Classics at the same time with Zhu's arm is a masterpiece to describe family brewing. Su Shi's "The Classic of Wine" is concise and frightening, which fully embodies the brewing methods he has learned in hundreds of words. Su Shi also has many poems about wine-making, such as Honey Wine Song, Real Wine and Guijiu.
There are a lot of materials about distiller's yeast and medicinal liquor in Qu Ben Cao written by Tian in the Northern Song Dynasty, especially the records of Soju in Siam (where Thailand is now located) at that time, which provide valuable historical materials for studying the origin of distilled Soju.
Probably because of the special status of wine in the Song Dynasty, there is an urgent need for an encyclopedia about wine in the society. During the Northern Song Dynasty, Dou Ping wrote a book "The Classic of Wine", citing a large number of historical materials related to wine, including the origin, name, events, merits and demerits of wine, Ke Wen (referring to moderate drinking), disorderly morality (referring to excessive drinking) and abstinence (abstinence).
The Book of Wine Names was probably written in the Southern Song Dynasty, which comprehensively recorded more than 100 kinds of famous wines throughout the country during the Northern Song Dynasty. Some of these wines are brewed by the royal family, some by famous officials, some from famous hotels and wine cellars, and some from the people. What is particularly interesting is that most of these wine names are extremely elegant.
Second, the brewing theory in Beishan Jiujing
Beishan Liquor Classic uses the theory of "Five Elements" to explain the process of changing grains into wine.
"Five elements" refer to five substances: fire, water, wood, gold and earth. Ancient thinkers in China tried to explain the origin and diversity of everything in the world with the five substances used in daily life mentioned above. In the Nine Classics of Beishan, Zhu Junyong explained the process of transforming grain into wine with the theory of five elements. Zhu Mian believes: "The name of wine is based on sweetness, Jin Mu interval, soil as the medium, sweetness from sour, sweetness from sweet, and wine has become what it is now (rice is sour, so it is sweet)." As the saying goes, it's sweet to borrow soil, sour to combine water, pungent to combine soil and water, and it's also pungent to know who will vote. "
"Soil" is where grains grow. "Taking soil as the medium" can be understood as the production of grain by using soil as the medium, and the "soil" here can also refer to grain. "Gan" stands for a sweet substance, and the sweetness of earth means changing from grain to sugar. "Xin" stands for substances with wine aroma, and "acid" stands for acid pulp, which is one of the substances that must be added in the brewing process. By combing Zhu's point of view, we can find that the process of brewing at that time can be represented by the following schematic diagram: soil → grain → sweet → spicy.
↓ ↑ ↑
Water-→ acid-
In this process, it can be clearly seen that wine-making can be divided into two stages, that is, first grain becomes sugar (sweet), and then sugar becomes wine. (Sweet becomes bitter).
Modern brewing theory expounds the mechanism and specific steps of grain brewing process. Generally speaking, it is also divided into two stages, one is the stage of starch conversion into sugar, which is completed by amylase, glucoamylase and so on; The second stage is the fermentation of sugar into alcohol (ethanol), which is completed by a series of enzymes (also known as alcoholases).
Modern theory and ancient theory are interlinked, but the former is expounded from the molecular level and the mechanism of enzyme action, while the latter is inferred from the taste of wine.