According to Notes of Song People, the time-honored famous shops at that time included Tiepianlou Hotel, Cao Meat Pie, Lisi Powder Tea, Lujia Steamed Bun, Oil Cake Shop, Wanjia Steamed Bread, Mang Soup, Boiled Food and so on. Famous dishes include lion candy, yangjiaoyaozi, roasted dumplings, winter moon rabbits, litchi paste, sliced sheep's head, golden belly soup, red silk crystal soup and so on.
Goulanwa store, teahouse and restaurant are full of fragrance and crowded with diners from all walks of life, which is the most lively market style of that era. It can be seen how much Song people love to eat. So Su Dongpo, as the national husband of DaSong, naturally wants to lead the food trend. It is definitely the best in eating goods.
I once wrote in an article that when Dongpo was demoted, he stole cattle as an appetizer, gathered people to drink, got as drunk as a fiddler, and climbed the mountain gate to sing in the middle of the night. You can't kill cattle in Song Dynasty. Cattle is the national labor force, so among those who eat in Shuihuli restaurant, the guy who dares to ask Xiao Er to bring me two Jin of beef must not be a good crop. Some readers asked me that Dongpo, as a local official, actually mixed with hooligans, knew how to kill cattle and acted bohemian, unlike a rigorous scholar. I was speechless for a moment. On the contrary, it aroused my curiosity and imagination about Bao Gong, a diner. So I decided to write a cookbook of Su Dongpo, a senior foodie.
Lu You wrote an article called "Dongpo eats soup cakes", saying that Su Shi and Su Zhe were demoted and ate soup cakes on the road. Su Zhe felt terrible and couldn't eat any more. Su Shi finished eating in a short time and said, you eat so slowly, don't you want to taste it carefully?
Soup cake is a kind of food in Song Dynasty. Flour jiaozi was sliced and boiled in soup, similar to Daoxiao Noodles today. Ordinary people often eat soup cakes, while officials and scholars eat less. They are meat eaters. Later, the traitor Cai Jing loved quail soup, and quail feathers piled up in his backyard. Pogong likes to eat every soup cake, which shows that he has a good appetite, loves to eat, and has unlimited tastes for simple food.
In Tang poetry and Song poetry, there are people who eat wine as a meal, people who eat sorrow as a meal, and people who really eat rice as a meal. The first one is in-laws. Where should I start? Let's start with when he was born.
In the third year of Jing You, Pogong was born in Meishan, Sichuan. Pepper was not introduced to China in Song Dynasty, when Sichuanese ate lightly. When Pogong was a child, he ate "Three Whites". What is "Three Whites"? It's just a bowl of white rice, a dish of white radish and a spoonful of coarse salt. It can be seen that when he was a child, his luck in eating was not very good. He can only fill his stomach.
In the sixth year of Jiayou, 26-year-old Pogong became an official for the first time, and became a nine-level sesame official who evaluated Dali affairs and signed books for Fengxiang House. Fengxiang House is in Shaanxi, Pogong is in Fengxiang, and life is full of interest. This tastes a little strong. I wrote in a poem: there is bear wax in the dragon, and Qin only cooks mutton soup. Gansu has dried bear meat and Shaanxi has mutton soup. The former does not explain, and the latter explains a little. This delicious food was called mutton soup in Song Dynasty, and now it is mutton bread in soup.
In the ninth year of Xining, Mid-Autumn Festival in Mizhou, Pogong wrote the poem "Water Turn Around". This poem is really good, and it can be regarded as the finale of Song Ci. As the ancients said, when Dongpo mink first came out, the rest of the words were useless. Although the Mid-Autumn Festival poetry is touted too high, it does not have the right of mink head. The most brilliant masterpiece of his life was that he finished it with a glass. Look, "when will there be a bright moon? Asking for wine from heaven ",the word sequence is" Chen Bing Mid-Autumn Festival, drunk, drunk, writing this article, pregnant ".
It seems that he can drink well, but it is not the case. They are all in the till. I raise my glass and ask the moon. In-laws certainly don't drink as much as Li Bai, and they don't particularly like drinking, but they love making wine, including bamboo leaf green wine, bixiang wine, honey wine and crisp wine. Later, he made wine with oranges, boasting that it was delicious, and asked his friends to drink it. As a result, his friends drank all the diarrhea.
In the tenth year of Xining, Pogong was in Xuzhou. One year, the Yellow River burst its banks and floods raged. Pogong led the people of the whole city to fight floods and provide disaster relief. It took more than three months to finally solve the flood risk. The people are grateful to their parents, killing pigs and sheep, and picking out a bunch of officials such as Po Gong. Po Gong, who has always been incorruptible, naturally laughed it off. He used his own research method to stew braised pork, which was super delicious. He ordered it to continue and sent someone. After eating it, the people praised it and it was delicious! Sue won the flood magic and boiled small fresh, which is amazing! This dish is called "Hui Guo rou" and has been handed down from generation to generation. Sichuan style pork has become a famous dish in Xuzhou.
Xuzhou, also known as Pengcheng, is rich in aquatic products, and the food that women in that river eat is refreshing. He wrote a letter to Sima Guang who wrote Zi Tong Zhi Jian in Luoyang. There was a sentence in it, "Pengcheng has beautiful mountains and waters, and fish and crabs pretend to be rivers and lakes." Let brother Sima envy him.
In the second year of Yuanfeng, after the ordeal of Wutai Poetry Case, Pogong moved his family to Huangzhou and arrived in Huangzhou. The first thing to do is to find delicious food. I wrote a poem "First Arriving in Huangzhou". There is a line in the poem, "The Yangtze River knows the beauty of fish around the country, and bamboo shoots live in Xiangshan." At that time, Po Gong was depressed to the extreme. Fortunately, the fish here are good, and so are the bamboo shoots. Fish soup, fried bamboo shoots, gee! Pork is better. Write a "pork song" and sing "Huangzhou good pork, the price is as low as dirt. The rich refuse to eat, and the poor don't know how to cook. Get up in the morning and play two bowls, eat enough, and ignore your husband. " I also made the secret recipe of cooking pork into a ballad, "The clean pot is short of water, and firewood can't be smoked." Don't rush him when he is ripe, he will be beautiful when the heat is enough. "Pork stuffed with bamboo shoots is more beautiful, and look at Po Gong's doggerel" No bamboo makes people vulgar, no meat makes people thin, not vulgar and not thin, and bamboo shoots stew pork ". Here, he improved the method of stewing pork in Xuzhou, and finally developed Dongpo meat which is popular all over the world.
These days in Huangzhou, my salary has been halved, and there are many mouths to eat at home. At that time, after witnessing the poverty of Pogong, some people felt that "the bachelor was poor to the bone". He planted vegetables on a slope in the east of Huangzhou, calling himself Dongpo lay man, hence the name. "It's ridiculous to laugh all your life, and it's ridiculous to be old." Po Gong summed up his first half of life like this. His big mouth is really hard to control. He not only offended the emperor and his colleagues, but also kept eating and getting along in the situation of land reclamation.
In the eighth year of Yuanfeng, Su Shi traveled to Jiangyin and saw Hui Chong's famous painting "Night Scene of the Spring River". He stood in front of the painting and looked at the scenery in the painting, thinking: Spring is so beautiful! Fat duck is delicious! Artemisia annua is so delicious! Reed buds are delicious! The puffer fish is delicious! There is a poem in the painting, "There are three or two peach blossoms outside the bamboo, and the duck prophet in the spring water heating. Artemisia sphaerocephala is full of short reed buds, which is the time for puffer fish to go up. "
In the ninth year of Yuan You, Pogong wrote a "Gourmet Fu" in Huizhou. Gourmet is the most delicious among the nine sons of Longsheng, and Gourmet Fu means "Old Gourmet Fu". Edgar Allan Poe generally believes that eating should be economical and applicable, and must not be extravagant and wasteful. A table with pig neck, autumn crab, preserved meat, mutton, clams and bad crabs is enough. He also claimed that "the beauty of polymers is to feed my gluttony". The delicious food in the world is to feed me, an old foodie!
I also wrote a book "Tang Fu", which is a guide to eating wild vegetables. He can eat all kinds of wild vegetables, boiled, salted, cold, vinegar and soy sauce. Pogong's potherb banquet is comparable to the state banquet.
In Huizhou, tropical fruits are eaten as meals, so cool that I proudly wrote, "It is spring at four o'clock in Luofu Mountain, and oranges and bayberry are new." 300 lychees a day, I will grow up to be a Lingnan person without hesitation. "Ah! You are always in exile, at least show some sad attitude towards exile. There is no such delicious and delicious exile as you!
Born four years less, Pogong was in Danzhou, and was finally banished to the ends of the earth, a wild land. This time, he really couldn't find anything delicious. I had to learn from the natives. "The natives eat potatoes and taro for every meal, and recommend smoking rats and burning bats." When I first heard the honey pumping, I was a little close to the custom of toads. "Potatoes, mice, bats and frogs eat whatever they catch. Later, I ate oysters and wrote to my son happily. Don't let your court uncles know that I ate such delicious food in Hainan, or they will come here to rob me.
Finally, Dongpo sang in Tianya Haijiao: Life is not only poetry and distance, but also food!