Modern Housewives is written for middle-class readers. This time, Soyel paid more attention to frugality and used more pork as food. The main course is only 13 pork, but there are 30 beef veal dishes and 25 mutton mutton dishes. Pork dishes include roast pork leg, roast pork loin, roast ribs and roast suckling pig, roast pork loin or neck with onion mustard sauce, or roast potatoes, onions and apples. There are two cheap ways to eat: boiled bacon with broad beans and pickled pork with seasonal vegetables. Interestingly, ham is more popular than fresh meat. Soyel believes that "this is a very popular dish ... from aristocratic kitchens to peasant kitchens, there are as many as 50 cooking methods for ham, and various dishes can be made". For example, ham can be made into hot dishes-poured with juice or sprinkled with bread crumbs.
Soyel also wrote a cookbook "shilling" (formerly British monetary unit) for the wealthy working class. Compared with the first two books, pork appears more frequently in this book. He mainly recommends using cheaper pork, and the amount of vegetables is more than pork. Another cookbook, Standard Cooking, is aimed at the poorer classes-"artisans, technicians and tenant farmers"-who use a lot of pork, but mainly emphasize how to use limited pork in a more frugal way to maintain a longer life, such as pea soup bacon, carrot soup ham, seasoning pea sauce bacon and Indian baked corn paste.
/kloc-Isabella Betton, a British London writer in the 10th and 9th centuries, compiled and published Mrs. Betton's Home Guide, which collected the recipes of housewives from all over Britain, so this book should accurately reflect the family diet of the middle class in Victorian England. She despises the laziness, greed and omnivorousness of pigs, but she has to praise the advantages of pork: "Although I hate pigs, no domestic animal can compare with pork-it can make all kinds of banquets, and lard is still an essential ingredient for frying and baking."
She provided twenty-five kinds of pork recipes, equivalent to the amount of mutton, but far less than the amount of beef. Some of them are high-class dishes, such as roast pork tenderloin and legs, salted ham in sauce and roast suckling pig with exquisite dishes. Like other European regions, they must be served with applesauce. In particular, the practice of roasting pork is a typical British style-roasting with meat and skin-and the roasted pork is very crisp. Before roasting, the pigskin should be cut with a knife in advance to avoid shrinkage and deformation of pork. When serving, peel off the crispy skin first, then cut it into thin and crisp strips and put it next to the barbecue. France and the United States do this. When roasting, remove the pigskin and grease it to make the barbecue bright.
In addition, Mrs. Betton also provides a large number of menus for family dinners and formal banquets. Dinner is an important status symbol in the Victorian era: the goal of middle-class families is to have dinner once a month, while the upper class has dinner once a week; The middle class had to continue to eat overnight leftovers the next day. Pork is definitely not the first choice in the exquisite menu in the book, but it still appears frequently. Because her 18' s luxurious dinner includes four main courses and more than 20 courses, pork is usually accompanied by side dishes, such as veal as the main course, ham pie as the side dish, and roasted ham decorated with cauliflower. Dinner for ordinary families is usually two main courses and dessert, which highlights the more important position of pork.
Catherine Dickens, the wife of Charles Dickens, published a collection of Dickens' family dinner menus at 1852. Future generations can have a good understanding of the life of wealthy upper-middle class families in the middle of the19th century-they like socializing and banquets very much. The menu series includes 72 sets of dinner menus for 2-3 people, 39 sets of menus for 4-5 people, 32 sets of menus for 6-7 people, 25 sets of menus for 10 people and 5 sets of menus for 20 people.
In 72 sets of menus for 2-3 people, Mrs Dickens only prepared soup or fish, two meat dishes with vegetables or potatoes, and one or two desserts. Fresh or cured pork appears in many menus, but the quantity is less than that of poultry, mutton and beef. Among these 72 sets of menus, 12 sets are mainly pork: ribs, bacon, cured pork, veal liver and bacon, boiled pork elbow and bacon ground beef or mutton. A 7 1 set menu for 4-7 people usually includes roast poultry, mutton or beef. Even the most advanced roast suckling pig only appeared once, and it appeared on the table of exquisite dinner together with roast beef, seafood dishes and three other meat entrees. But Mrs Dickens often uses pork as a side dish, especially in a menu suitable for 8-20 people, in order to make up 28 dishes.
During her visit to France, Mrs Dickens found a dish stuffed with truffles in a restaurant in Paris, and then added it to her dinner menu in 1854. She is very particular about the quality of ham. Once she ordered a ham from London when she was on vacation, and then she ate it in three meals: the main course on the first night was stewed hooves, and the next meal was sliced ham. At the last meal, the remaining ham and veal were ground together to make the stuffing of the small pie.
The French are not interested in "pork as the main course of the banquet" either. They prefer meat to pork, and fresh meat is not common in advanced cooking. August Escofer clearly pointed out in his Complete Guide to Modern Cooking Art (1903) that "pork is more commonly used in bourgeois or family cooking than in professional kitchens." In fact, thanks to the cooking value of ham, pork has almost no place in French classical kitchens. Only ham can provide valuable resources for cooking, whether it comes from bayonne, York, Prague or westfalen.
Nevertheless, Mastering French Cooking Skills, the authoritative cookbook of American French cuisine, still contains several recipes for roast pork and pork chops. Compared with medieval recipes, the practice of roasting suckling pigs is slightly simpler, but there are more creative cooked ham practices, such as Morvan's roast ham: stir-fry carrots and onions in a casserole, then cover the ham slices, add fragrant leaves, spices, white wine and broth, and simmer for two hours; Sizing and spreading sugar powder in a hot furnace; Then collect the juice, add mushrooms, onions, madeira sauce and cream, and stew for another five minutes. Pork is more commonly used in French cuisine to flavor other dishes, such as bacon, ham or bacon, and is often used in vegetable soup, French salty pie, casserole roast chicken, stewed beef, purple cabbage and so on. Chopped ham or minced pork can be used as stuffing for beef rolls, or for boneless mutton or roasted veal.
The French discovered a long time ago that a little pork can be used to make a meal with beans. Alsace stew is actually a bad dish. A cheap main course can be made with only a catty of bacon or smoked pork, which contains a lot of vegetables. Casserole to casserole is a more exquisite "pork stewed beans." Julia Child's practice is to first cook white kidney beans with bacon, onions, boiled pigskin and fragrant leaves; Large pieces of boneless mutton, mashed sheep bones and onions are fried in lard to produce Maillard aroma; When stewing mutton, put sheep bones, garlic, tomatoes and fragrant leaves into the pot, then pour in white wine and broth, stew for one and a half hours on low heat, then remove the bones and discard them; Pour the cooked beans back into the pot and cook for 5 minutes, then put the whole pot of stew into the casserole. At this time, there are mutton and bacon in the casserole, and even roast pork tenderloin and fried sausage. It is covered with beans. Pour the stew into a casserole, sprinkle with bread crumbs and coriander, and then pour in the oil collected from roast pork. Finally, put the casserole full of stewed meat into the furnace and bake it on medium heat 1 hour.