Shanghai Songjiang perch is famous for its delicious taste, tender meat and special cooking skills, and has always been regarded as a superior delicacy. Fan Chengda, a poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, said in a poem: "There are fish in the orange, and the west wind blows four gills and bass;" When it is crisp and greasy, it is everywhere except Songjiang. "Praise Songjiang bass heartily.

According to legend, Emperor Qianlong of Qing Dynasty went to Jiangnan to taste Songjiang perch and named it "the first fish in Jiangnan". Since then, Songjiang Prefecture has paid tribute to the imperial court every year.

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Songjiang perch is plump, with a body length of 10 cm and a weight of 100 g. Its head is big and flat, its mouth is wide and its eyes are small, and it is yellowish brown, covered with several black stripes and slightly black spots.

What is even more surprising is that there is still water in the gill cavity after the fish comes out of the water. If put in rice chaff, it can live for four or five days. This fish has concave ridges on the front and back of its gills, which are shaped like gill holes, colored like gill holes, and orange-red stripes on the gill cover, which are shaped like four exposed gill leaves, so it is called "four-gill bass".