Mr. Lu Xun has a famous saying about crabs: "People who eat crabs for the first time are admirable. They are not warriors. Who dares to eat? " There is some truth in this statement. Not only does the crab look strange and scary, but its hard shell is like armor. How can a soldier not want to eat its meat? However, after the first person became a warrior because of eating crabs, the second or even the nth person who ate crabs can only be diners, and there is at most a distinction between elegance and vulgarity.
Crab is really a poetic thing. Since Wei and Jin Dynasties, eating crabs in autumn has become a symbol of fashion and elegance. "Shi Shuo Xin Yu" clearly wrote: "Bi Yun:' It is enough to hold wine with crab claws and pat the floating wine pool. ""Since then, eating crabs, drinking, enjoying chrysanthemums and writing poems have become the business of celebrities in autumn.
In A Dream of Red Mansions, Cao Xueqin also spent a lot of space describing the elegance of eating crabs and writing poems in the 38th poem "Poem of Lin Xiaoxiang's Taking Chrysanthemums and Ridiculous Poems on Crabs": the novel first wrote that Li Wan and Feng were waiting for Grandma and Aunt Xue to peel crab meat, and then ordered the maid to take mung bean noodles smoked with chrysanthemum and osmanthus flowers and prepare to wash their hands. Pinger tried to wipe Amber's face with a fishy hand while joking. Amber dodged and rubbed it on Xifeng's face, which caused everyone to laugh. Baoyu, the affectionate seed of Jia family, said, "There is no poem today, so you can't enjoy the laurel with crabs. I have sung it, who dares to do it? " Unexpectedly, Baoyu's poem about crabs was not well written. Later, Xue Baochai's poem said, "After reading it, everyone said it was the swan song of eating crabs." The poem says, "Gui sits in the shade and raises his hand, while Chang 'an looks forward to Chongyang. There is no warp and weft in front of my eyes, and my skin is black and yellow in spring and autumn. Chrysanthemum should also be used when the wine is not fishy, and ginger must be used to prevent cold accumulation. What's the good of falling into the kettle today? Yuepu has a leisurely meal. "
Now the agricultural breeding technology is developed, crabs are not only fat in autumn, but also fat all year round, and some of them are exaggerated. Under this premise, people eating crabs has become a fashion that has passed away. Don't you know that some decent restaurants nowadays don't have spicy crabs and other dishes on their menus? As for writing poems while eating crabs, it has long been an ancient irreversible behavior.
In my opinion, the reason why eating crabs has become a fashion and trend is not that it tastes good, because there are many delicious things today, but few crabs can last for thousands of years. Eating crabs is a slow job and requires excellent leisure. If a person is hungry for three days, he will definitely choose the best spicy crab and a bowl of fried egg noodles. In this way, eating crabs has a premise: full and not hungry. In other words, diners can easily take crab meat out of its hard shell only if they are not hungry (in fact, it takes half a day, but only enough to eat one bite). When Feng Zikai wrote about his father, he recalled that one of his old people's hobbies was to drink yellow wine with a crab for several hours. In fact, the meaning of drunkenness does not lie in drinking and eating crabs, but in the elegance that can be rendered or put on airs. Therefore, when some people want to pick up girls, they often call and say, "I'll treat you to spicy crabs tonight." It seems that with a spicy crab in his hand, people can immediately become petty bourgeoisie white-collar workers.
Zhang Dai, a scholar in the late Ming Dynasty, once wrote a short article about crabs, talking about his elegance when he was young: "Salt-free food is mussels and river crabs. In 10, the crab is as fat as rice and its shell is as big as a plate ... Open its shell, and the paste is greasy and accumulates like jade, which will stick together, although it is not as precious as eight treasures. 1- 10, I made an appointment with my friends and brothers to arrive in the afternoon and cooked crab dishes for six people. I'm afraid of cold and fishy, and I cook it repeatedly. Boil cabbage from fat preserved duck, cow cheese, amber drunk crab, and duck juice like jade rice. Fruit bitter with orange, chestnut with wind, ling with wind. Drink jade jug ice, pit bamboo shoots with military dishes, use Xinyu Bai Hang rice, and wash with Lan Xue tea. With today's thinking, it is really like a celestial sacrifice, drunk and full, and ashamed. "
Zhang Dai was a rich boy in his early years, but in his later years his country was ruined and his hair was thrown into the mountains. In the evening scene where he almost starved to death, this gentleman talked about the crab feast in his early years, which made people feel sad. In any era, if the wind of luxury is so rampant, there is almost no reason not to die.