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Long Reading: Exclusive Excerpt —— Beauty Cosmetics in Elizabethan Times published by Charles Bookstore
Editor's Note: This long article is taken from Beauty and Cosmetics, which is a new title of Charles's book.

The rainbow portrait of Elizabeth I (Frederigo Zuchero, about 1570). Elizabeth is committed to shaping her iconic image and promoting her beauty. She was called the queen of fairyland by edmund spenser (1590 and 1596): "the queen girl shining with the light of Titan/a stone as beautiful as gold and Perez."

The Queen of Wonderland 65438+the Venetian ambassador who visited Tudor dynasty in the early 6th century commented on the natural skin color of British women. Unlike the Venetian sisters, they still pay attention to the church like washing their faces. They may not have colored their faces, but they are getting better and better at making facial cleansers and lotions to improve their skin color, and using their knowledge of herbs to make family medicines. The recipe is perfect, passed down from mother to daughter, and circulated in Italy and France as pamphlets or books until the end of 15. Fournier's "La Decor Aion d 'Humaine Nauere" arrived in England on 1530, which is full of exotic French recipes, including skin color improvers made of water lilies and roses. This is probably the favorite of Henry VIII's wives, because it has an additional advantage-water lilies are * * *, and red roses improve fertility.

Since the coronation of Elizabeth I in June 5438 +05591October +65438 +05, a strong visual declaration has been issued. She looks very young and pure, with an ivory face, oval Phnom Penh frames and elegant red and blond hair. She dedicated herself to the English bride. Loyal to polarization, she wants her supporters and critics to understand that she is a good daughter of King Harry. Even as a child, she was admired by people for her pale face and golden red hair. She also acted according to her own image, avoiding the simple headdress usually worn in court and making her supreme glory look loose and girlish.

She also needs to be separated from her mother, anne boleyn, who is accused of being a wizard because this stain is thought to be related to her blood. Tudor's general view is that witches are ugly or deformed, so Elizabeth's beauty is particularly important, especially many people also hold Castiglio's view:

I said that beauty comes from God ... so without goodness, people can't have beauty. Therefore, evil souls rarely live in beautiful bodies, so external beauty is the real sign of inner goodness.

37-year-old Queen Mary I (1553) was at the engagement ceremony. Elizabeth I was determined to distinguish herself from her infamous half-sister, bloody Mary, and created her iconic beauty to prove her kindness, because Tudor believed that "external beauty is the real sign of inner kindness".

Queen Elizabeth I wore a coronation dress (English school, about 1559- 1600). From her first appearance on the world stage, Elizabeth, with pale face and flowing hair, declared herself a virgin bride in England.

Unfortunately, many people think that it is against God to put a woman on the throne, and their fears can be forgiven by imitating her half-sister bloody Mary. Mary ruled the country with a cold attitude, which was reflected in her appearance. Even at her 1554 wedding, Ambassador Venice described her as "a saint without eyebrows". She is badly dressed. "Mary stuck to a rut and showed her religious loyalty to her mother with her early holy eyebrow. Elizabeth shows her faith to her people by shaping herself and idols. " Elizabeth saw the power of beauty and the dedication it inspired. She is willing to do her best to make herself. In Volpon, Enqiong described in detail the cosmetic advertisement of a product, claiming that it was "the powder that made Venus a goddess (given to her by Apollo), which made her forever young, eliminated wrinkles, strengthened gums, filled the skin [and] dyed her hair"! "1570, Elizabeth's nobles wore badges to depict her in miniature. 1570, Elizabeth's idol status was consolidated in order to resist the expulsion of the Pope. Portraits of Flemish artists are copied everywhere. Elizabeth may be the first person to present such a wide range of portraits, not a religious god. Many portraits include phoenix, mink, crescent moon, rose and pearl, which were once related to the Virgin Mary, but now they have been usurped by Elizabeth, who calls herself the new Virgin Queen Gloriana. Especially in her later years, portraits were copied from other portraits, sometimes with very different interpretations; This explains the remarkable difference in her appearance to some extent.

With the worship of Gloriana deeply rooted in people's hearts, her bright face not only represents the beauty of her kingdom of heaven, but also represents her pure and demagogic status. Because the strength of the country is closely linked to her own material destiny, she is under great pressure to remain young and beautiful. Any sign of age is a weakness and must be hidden immediately. Life expectancy is generally short, and 40 years old is the door to a short old age. However, even though her contemporaries are planning their funeral parade, Elizabeth is still required to look lively and suitable for marriage. In order to keep her beauty, she piled her clothes on the "bench"; The terrible irony is that when silverware gives people the illusion of flawless skin, toxic lead will erode the skin, leaving scars and uneven places on the skin. Of course, the only thing that can make it look perfect is another layer.

From left: Queen Elizabeth (miniature painting by Nicholas hilliard, about1572); Queen Elizabeth (miniature painting by Nicholas Hilliard, about1595-1600); Queen Elizabeth (miniature painting by Issac Oliver, about 1590- 1592). It is hard to imagine that the Queen will be happy with Issac Oliver's indomitable portrait, and it is not surprising that it was not completed. 1596, the Privy Council ordered the destruction of all her portraits, which she thought was "a great offense" and also a monopoly of Hilead, because Elizabeth's Limna was re-established on1August/599 17.

The ladies and some gentlemen in the court respected Queen Elizabeth in the way that the ancients respected the goddess, and shaped themselves in her image. Like Europe, blonde hair has always been the ideal hairstyle, until the rise of Elizabeth created the red gold fashion. Her hair and beard were dyed red to imitate her, and her face showed the brilliance of her white paint. In the following years, when her hair turned gray, she still wore a wig, just like in court, and sometimes the shadows of scarlet and purple were surprising. However, this rare circle with more knowledge and contact with other European courts is far away from the local land class. For people outside Gloria's circle, the terrible orders of Puritans like stubbs still reverberate in condemnation.

Many women often decorate their faces with candles, candles, candles and candles. They think their beauty is very charming, but they don't think their souls will not be deformed because of it. ...

A small portrait of Elizabeth I (1592, young Marcus Gelleritz). By the age of 60, Elizabeth's extensive use of white ceramics was obvious, but in order to make herself look more natural and young, she highlighted the blood vessels in her temples in blue to show her white translucent skin, and her cheeks were covered with a layer of hazel.

As John Harington reported in 1594, even Soubise had to stop criticizing the monarch, and the consequences could be terrible:

O One Sunday (last April), my master preached to Her Majesty the Queen in London, as if he had touched vanity in Deting. She solemnly told the ladies that if the bishop said these questions again, she would be fit to send him to heaven.

Robert Deverux, the second earl of King Essex (Issac Oliver, about 1590), is the queen's "favorite". He dyed his beard red to show his respect for her. The miniature of this portrait (named "Dawn") can be traced back to 1588, when he was wearing garters.

Elizabeth occupies a central position in the luxurious and gorgeous stage of Tudor dynasty. Sometimes, as the theater becomes more and more popular, several plays by Shakespeare premiered for her, which is a very realistic epitome. A play rarely performed during Elizabeth's reign was Hamlet (about 1600). In this play, the prince sounds like stubbs. He said to Ophelia, "I also have your head, which is very well painted;" God gave you one face and you made another. " Elizabeth often has hundreds of well-dressed fairies or mythical animals dedicated to her on the stage. When leaving the stage to dance with the audience, the masked players introduced an exciting dreamy and mysterious element, which courtiers were keen to imagine for themselves.

"vizard" (or "visard") mask is an oval black velvet or silk with eyes and mouth, and the nose is close to the face. It was first recorded by Barclays in 1508. He wrote in the book "World Folklore of People Wearing Black Masks during Carnival":

So, playne rouh tells us,

Worse than Hedfler in hell.

More like a bird, it is thought that it is often lined with fragrant Spanish leather, and the mask is fixed by buttons clenched between teeth. This makes the speech impossible and only adds mystery. Vizade mask became popular after 1572, when women wore it in the street to protect their skin color or try to protect cosmetics from getting dirty.

This kind of mask can even be bought in all provinces. In Shakespeare's A Winter's Tale (about 1609), mobile vendors like Auto Lukas use them to sell ribbons and trinkets. They sang:

... gloves are as sweet as brocade roses;

Mask, face and nose;

Horn bud, amber necklace,

Ladies perfume ...

In this case, Vizade may have another purpose, which is to hide a face with makeup in public. Outside the palace circle, Vizade is known to complain about women who they think are not properly dressed. In Cory Ollanu (about 1607- 1608), Shakespeare gave the most probable reason why masks are used to protect the wearer from the sun:

... our veiled woman.

exist

There was a war between white and satin, and their open cheeks were wantonly destroyed.

That's Phoebe's kiss.

Russell was a doctor and alchemist in the/kloc-6th century and lived in Alexis, Piedmont. One of the most innovative beauty treatments is chemical peeling with eggs, vinegar, turpentine, sugar, camphor, alum, mercury, lemon juice, tartar and white onion. Make it into a paste and give instructions: "When you sleep at night, put the ingredients on your face, neck and * * * and let it dry by itself." Incredibly, this was left over from the "eight stops". Although you may feel that this article burned or peeled off the skin on your face, you may not be able to remove it all. Probably because the removal method involves another complicated formula and steaming face, which is combined with the skin. Obviously, the result is profound, because he added a warning: "Pay attention, after eight days, don't go to an open-air airport abroad, and don't get too close to the fire, lest you be fined again, burn your tender skin, or get any harm." His article is taken from Beauty and Cosmetics by Charles Bookstore:

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