At first, I was right? Xinjiang? These two words don't have a deep concept, but they are very big. I didn't think there would be any difference between going to Urumqi and going to Kashgar. Later, I found out that the difference was big. At the home of Uighur villagers in Kashgar? Eat and live? In those days, I learned that many native Kashgar people have never left Xinjiang, and even a trip to Urumqi is their lifelong dream. Of course, this is another story. Let's start from the beginning.
Kashichu impression
On the first day I arrived in Kashgar, I settled in this small border town? Center? : Etigael Square. This is a hub, but also a? Reference? Later, whenever I met a Uighur taxi driver who didn't understand Mandarin, I asked him to send me here, from which I could quickly get to any place in the main city. The main city of Kashgar is not big, and there are two main roads. One is called Renmin Road, which starts from Kashgar Museum in the east and goes to Huanjiang New World Department Store in the west, with a total length of 3 kilometers. The other is Jiefang Road, which is 2.5 kilometers wide from Kunlun Building at the northern end to Xinyuan Building at the southern end.
What are these two routes? Cross? Form, this piece of Fiona Fang seven or eight square kilometers of Kashgar city is divided into four parts: northwest, northeast, southwest and southeast. For tourists, they represent different? What is the meaning of travel? , have their own? Tourism function? . Northeast China: Old town, old houses and snack night market, which is the most original, concentrated and well-preserved Kashgar.
Southwest: shopping malls, cinemas and fast-paced living areas, where the foreign population is the most concentrated and the most? No Kashgar flavor? Kashgar.
Southeast: Two major parks (People's Park and East Lake Park), which belong to Kashgar people? Back garden? .
Or it can be divided as follows:
A people's road? One word? Type B divides the main city of Kashgar into two regions, the north is the old city and the south is the new city.
For tourists, the most wonderful area is in the north, while for permanent residents, the most practical area is the south.
About this old city in the north of Kashgar, the official map is like a turtle. Look at the picture: the turtle's head is on the right, the turtle's shell is in the middle, and the turtle's ass and tail are on the left. It is vivid, but quiet and calm.
Today's travelogue is mainly about the northwest part of my trip to Kashgar on the first day and the second day, that is? Tortoise ass? This one. Kashgar? Landmark? build
If you want to find a landmark for Kashgar, it is the Etigar Mosque. This ancient building with a history of nearly 600 years, which was built in the Ming Dynasty, is not only second to none in Xinjiang, but also among the best in China. It is not only a temple, but also a school, which has trained many scholars devoted to the study of history and religion and enjoys a good reputation at home and abroad.
But according to my observation, people seem to prefer to stop in the big square in front of the Etigar Mosque. This square is like a small park, with its center facing the gate of the mosque, where a group of pigeons are scattered all the year round. Pigeons are not afraid of people. They walk around easily and stare at the children who are playing around. The children hold their delicious food in their hands. As soon as the small hand was opened, the pigeons gathered around, and a photographer recorded all this in the camera. There is a Uighur uncle on the side of the square near the road? Take a group photo? Before and after the annual Eid al-Adha Festival, the whole Kashgar is decorated with lanterns, and the square is full of songs and dances, and his business is extremely hot;
On the side of the square near the old street, some cultural activities are often held. On this day, I happened to catch a solo by a Uighur eldest brother. ? Life seldom has ups and downs, so we should live strong, cry and laugh. At least you and I have a pop song with Xinjiang flavor, singing "My Good Brother" in Little Shenyang.
This evening, I walked along? Stage? Boyi Road, next to Wusitang, walks into this ancient block. The sunset is a little instant, and the clouds hide behind the trees one by one. The dusk in Kashgar is picturesque, birds croak overhead, people rush home, and Uighur women's veil melts into the blue night? The song is drifting away. Like a glass of wine, like an old song
Wusitangboyi road
Is this one that can be included? Kashgar travel guide? The old street has been a bustling commercial street for thousands of years in the historical record of Kashgar as an important international commercial port on the ancient Silk Road. Just like Nanluoguxiang in Beijing and Barkhor Street in Lhasa, Boyi Road in Wusitang also has strong regional characteristics. No matter how things change, the cultural background and ethnic flavor here are the strongest and most revealing places in Kashgar.
On the second day of my trip to Kashgar, I spent the whole day visiting this street. First, I found a small restaurant and ate a bowl. Jiaozi soup? Sour and salty, very homely, typical northwest taste. The store next to me sells lumps of prickly heat. I picked a small one and soaked it in the sour soup in jiaozi. It was crisp and fragrant, but it was too big to take away, so I thought I would bring one to them when I went back to visit the Uighur villagers' home.
While eating, I watched the police uncle on duty on the roadside tease the children. Kashgar has a strict law and order. Later, I heard that many families will participate in duty. Children go to see their fathers when they are at work, and fathers can only play with their children for a while when they have a lunch break. The police uncle is an extremely noble and dignified profession for the children in Kashgar.
Around Boyi Road in Wusitang, there are many paths interwoven in 7788 places, which connect every inch of breath in this ancient block. Walking on these paths, feeling away from the real? Kashgar life? A little closer. The Uygur houses in this street are unique in form and beautifully decorated, and influenced by the special climatic conditions of dry and hot weather, less water and windy sand. People here have a very different grasp of layout and space from the spirit of architectural forms in the mainland. The houses on both sides of the street have flat roofs, and many windows are opened on the earthy walls. The windows have different shapes, some are closed with double doors, and some are carved out. Green plants climb to every extensible gap and wrap around carved wooden fences.
In Xinjiang, people refer to this kind of architecture as Ayiwang-style dwellings. It has a history of more than 2,000 years and is a folk, exquisite and practical art of life.
Later, when I looked at the photos, I found that the old city youth hostel where I stayed was actually a typical Ayiwang courtyard. The porch of this courtyard is decorated with two continuous paintings in strip shape, and there is an arched carved window in the middle of the porch column. The corridor is deep, build a row? A heatable adobe sleeping platform , can chat around, can sleep, ok? Spread it? Backpackers passing by are in a daze in this pile of red, green and green with stray cats adopted by the inn? This three-story building is semi-enclosed? U? T-shaped layout can make every room upstairs have good lighting. The whole yard is practical and beautiful. Is it an improved version? Modernization? New Uighur? Big family? Residential buildings.
This afternoon, I found another classic old building on Boyi Road in Wusitang:
Bainianlao tea house
At 3 o'clock in the afternoon in Kashgar, Beijing time, it was noon. The scorching sun shone on the road surface of Wusitang Boyi, and against the dazzling white light, I wandered aimlessly, passing by this small building, and I was attracted by it when I looked up. On the second floor corridor stood a girl dressed in red, half of her cheeks were covered by trees towering to the front of the corridor, and the shade was scattered on the side of the road. Sometimes pedestrians crossed this flickering shadow, reflecting the red and water-green teahouse exterior wall. When I walked in, I realized that it was the only century-old teahouse in Kashgar.
After staying in Kashgar for a long time, you will find that drinking tea is the daily life of Kashgar people, probably because the diet is greasy and salty. Every household here has a kind of Fuzhuan tea to relieve greasy, and it will come to a pot when eating rice, a pot when eating noodles, and a pot when eating naan. For the old Kashgar people who grew up on Boyi Road in Wusitang, drinking tea is a way of life. Almost every day, they come to the old teahouse, bring a cake they have prepared, and get together in twos and threes. While chatting, they break off a small piece of cake and dip it in tea to eat. For them, naan cake seems to be not a staple food, but a dessert of afternoon tea. Later, I learned from them, and often brought a Nan cake to the teahouse, where I was dull and dipped in tea. It happened that there was a small stall downstairs in the teahouse that had been open for many years, selling the only naan stuffed with roses and walnuts in Kashgar. It was delicious.
The atmosphere of this teahouse is very relaxed. Guests can bring not only Nan cakes, but also all kinds of fruits and snacks. The people in the teahouse are very accommodating, as long as they remember to take their garbage away. It is said that the boss is also a 70-year-old man. At present, his children and grandchildren manage the teahouse. The business is good and the tea is not expensive. An ordinary pot of tea is 10 yuan. With this pot of tea, you can sit here all afternoon until the tea is tasteless. On holidays and in the afternoon when there are many tourists, there will be a Rewap performance here. Is this piano from Kashgar? Specialty? The music played is lively, playful and powerful, coupled with tambourines, which instantly drives the enthusiasm of people in the place.
Because of interest, everyone will dance to the music for a while. Uighurs are a versatile, singing and dancing nation. In Kashgar, everyone can dance, regardless of gender, age. Often, the more enthusiastic everyone dances, the more energetic the musician plays. After a song is finished, many tourists downstairs will find the sound and squeeze into the teahouse.