1. Reasonable garden construction
The cultivation area of red grape should be free of air and water pollution and have a good water environment. The terrain is higher, preferably sunny and ventilated slope, without large buildings around, dry soil and good watering conditions.
2. Choose high-quality strong seedlings
(1) No virus. Although virus disease can't kill the damaged plants in a short time, it can hinder their growth and development, which can seriously reduce the yield by 2 1.5%-65.8% and reduce the sugar content and quality. Therefore, it is necessary to build the garden through cuttings without big virus collected from vineyards or seedlings supplied by seedling companies.
(2) The variety is pure. Variety purity must be above 98%.
(3) The seedlings are robust. No matter whether it is a self-rooted seedling or a grafted seedling, there should be 5-6 mature segments and well-developed winter buds above the new shoots or grafted parts, and the width of the middle branches should be greater than 0.7 cm. The root system is good, with more than 6 thick roots of 0.2 cm; There are many fibrous roots, which are evenly distributed.
3. Time and method of seedling raising
(1) planting time. Autumn sowing in the north is better than spring sowing, but in order to protect the safety of newly planted seedlings, it is best to sow in spring in cold winter in the north under the condition of convenient irrigation.
(2) Soil preparation before planting. Before planting, a planting ditch with a width of 1 m and a depth of 0.6-0.8 m should be dug according to the row spacing (fence frame 2.5 m, shed frame 4.5-5 m). Backfill organic mixture (wheat straw, chopped corn straw, fallen leaves, sawdust, etc.). ) and soil (according to the ratio of 1: 1- 1: 2) from the bottom of the ditch to about 30 cm above the ground, and then fully irrigated. After the filled soil sinks, it is filled to the ground with a mixture of decomposed manure (4000-5000 kg per mu) and soil. If sowing in spring, the above preparations should be completed in the autumn of the previous year.
(3) Planting method. Before planting, each seedling should be selected and renovated. For seedlings that meet the quality standards, generally cut 3-4 full buds from the buds, cut off the root system from the chopped and moldy parts, and soak the bud branches with 5-degree sulfur mixed solution or 200 times thiram arsenic for 2-3 minutes to eliminate germs and pests on the buds.
In the pre-prepared planting rows, dig 30×30×30 (cm) planting pits every 1.2m, and add 0.3kg urea and 0.2kg diamide to each plant. After the seedlings are into the pit, aim at the row direction, stretch the roots, fill the soil and step on it, and lift it up gently, so that the roots are in close contact with the soil. The suitable planting depth is 65438+ 0-2 buds at the base of branches. Water is permeable after planting. After a few days, loosen the soil and cover it with plastic film (film width 0.8- 1.0) to keep warm and moisturize, so as to facilitate the vigorous growth of seedlings in that year.
4. Fertilizer and water management
It is necessary to adhere to the moderate and reasonable application of nitrogen fertilizer in large chemical fertilizers and increase the proportion of phosphorus and potassium. When preparing soil, apply 5000 kilograms of decomposed farmyard manure per mu, and topdressing nitrogen fertilizer in the growing season; Spraying fertilizer and 3% zinc sulfate on the leaves before germination; Spraying 0.3-0.5% urea and 0.2-0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate in the growing season. Water 1 time after each fertilization, but not too much, so as to avoid high humidity and increase the incidence.
Step 5: plastic trimming
(1) shaping and framing: the main vine is kept at about 1.5m, and 10- 12 fruiting branches are evenly distributed on both sides of the front end, leaving 1 fruiting branches every 20cm, and arranging 1 vegetative branches.
(2) Pruning
(1) Pruning in winter: it should be pruned again in the first 1 year, leaving 1 mother branch with a length of 20 cm, and 1 m main vine in the second year, with 3-5 bearing branches on it, each bearing branch 1 ear. In the third year, the shed has been covered. At this time, the main vine of 1.5-2 meters is left, and the bearing branches of 10- 12 are left on it, and half of them bear fruit. Each fruiting branch has 2-3 buds, the vegetative branch and the preparatory branch are cut off, and 1-2 buds are left for re-cutting.
(2) Pruning in summer: tie the vines, fix the new tips on the scaffolding, distribute them evenly, and occupy space reasonably. In view of the small leaves of Red Earth, leaving 7-8 leaves for coring can control vigorous growth and improve photosynthetic efficiency. For thinning inflorescence and heading, according to the principle of 2: 1 between vegetative branches and fruiting branches, the inflorescence should be thinned on vegetative branches, and the spike tip should be pinched off to make the spike shape inverted trapezoid. When the spike is crowded, some fruit grains should be thinned.