"There are three blacks in Liyang, all of which are delicious: black rice, Zagan Liver, and Yan Lai Mushroom. Every fall, a mushroom smaller than the tip of your pinky finger will grow low in the pine forests along the border of Suzhou, Zhejiang and Anhui for only ten days or so. These fresh sprites will suddenly become invisible and disappear, only to wait until the geese fly south the next year."