Why do you like a person, after all, it may just be because of the right flavor.
The most important thing for me to know about why I fell in love with a city is the right flavor.
For a long time, I've felt like I've been drifting from city to city. But here, the ordinary, everyday flavors, the friendly people, like the city's long and low-key temperament, inexplicably attracted me to want to stop.
This is Chaozhou.
Chaozhou Dining 3 Days
D1
High-speed Railway Guangzhou East - Chaoshan Station Arrive at Chaozhou at about 12:00 pm
Lunch: Guantang Niu Comrade Beef Hot Pot
Afternoon: check in Ancient City Stroll
Dinner: Pinnacle Freshman Fish Sashimi Theme Restaurant
Evening: Guangji Bridge Guangji City Tower Night view and riverside walk
Late-night fruit: Lao Bing seven-conged pine licorice fruit
D2
Morning tea/lunch: Han Shanglou Restaurant
Afternoon: Kicking Peach Café Jaoyang Tea House
Afternoon: Rao Zongyi Art Museum
Dinner: Fatty's white congee
D3
Breakfast: Jaiyang intestines noodle
Morning: Kaiyuan Temple
Lunch: Ding Shang Chao Goose
Afternoon: Yu Shi Milk Ice
Return to Guangzhou
Two nights' accommodation: Oasis Garden B&B, Chaozhou
Michelin Guide's criteria for judging a restaurant is in fact directly related to whether or not it is worth the drive, with one star being worth stopping to try, two stars being worth the detour, and three stars being worth the drive. stars are worth a detour, and three stars are worth a special trip - that is, a restaurant worth making a special trip for just to eat.
If you use this criterion to judge the city, Chaozhou is definitely a three-star food destination, in order to even eat a few days of Chaozhou food, fly a few thousand kilometers are not a thing, and even want to fly next time to eat a degree.
Chaozhou cuisine has a long history, dating back to the Han Dynasty, the development of the Tang Dynasty, has been Han Yu praised as "...... chapter lifting the horse armor column, so the strange eyes presented. The rest of the dozens of species, no one can not marvel."
In modern times, due to trade and the influence of the Chao Chinese, the traditional dishes are integrated into the essence of the cuisine at home and abroad, and gradually fused into a unique modern Chao cuisine.
With more than 500 kilometers of coastline and the Han River running through the city, Chaozhou is very good at cooking seafood and river food.
At the same time, Teochew is a cuisine that attaches great importance to a sense of balance, with salty and sweet, meat and vegetarian, soup and vegetable, all having their place at the table. The basic flavor profile advocates lightness and the pursuit of original flavor, but at the same time pays great attention to sauce-dish seasoning, one dish, one plate, bean paste, southern ginger, plum paste, fish sauce, red soy sauce, sacha sauce, salty, sweet, sour and spicy, each with its own match.
In addition to the main meal, there are more than 200 kinds of snacks and countless kinds of kuey teow, which are made of coarse grains such as round-grained polished japonica rice, glutinous rice, sweet potatoes, potatoes, mung beans, red beans, wheat and so on, produced in the mountains and fields, and then processed into delicate and meticulous snacks.
Late-night snacks are the place to be in Teochew, where you can order a bowl of congee at the stalls, with fish rice, raw marinade, brine, oyster roasting, and a variety of small dishes, and that's the right way to start the night.
If you want to seriously drink congee for breakfast, you can't count on a lot of saltiness with the Chaozhou white congee, and there are more than 100 kinds of it. The last tour in Chaoshan specifically experienced this breakfast, had to marvel at the people here on the matter of eating seriously.
Simply summarized here, then officially start eating it ~
"Look, that dish of beef it is glowing"
The first meal in Chaozhou, we chose the long-awaited beef hot pot. Then, we were directly shocked by the chef's freshly cut beef.
Not only is the portion affordable and amazing, the fresh beef simply comes with a filter, believe me, this is really the original picture straight out of the scene without any beauty and color.
Look, it's really glowing!
Shabu shabu hot pot is probably the highest courtesy the Chaoshan people can give to beef. Unlike modern dining that deals with the beef's acid-drainage process, Teochew beef hot pot, is all about the word "fresh".
The chefs must race against the clock, the day now slaughtered yellow cattle within three years of age in the Southwest mountains, in just four hours, you have to complete all the decomposition of the beef, sent to the table of the diners, in order to avoid the buildup of lactic acid, to eat the beef the most tender flavor.
This is also the reason why Chaoshan beef hot pot is only the best in the local area, the most complete industrial chain and the most skilled chef, in order to support the requirements of the time and freshness of beef hot pot.
The soup base usually uses beef bone broth with cool bitter gourd, corn, and white radish to neutralize the warm attributes of the beef. There are also some restaurants that confidently use a clear water pot base directly to highlight the extreme freshness of the original beef flavor.
After the water rolls, the heat is lowered appropriately, and the beef is immersed in water that maintains a small boil for about 10 seconds, with two or three ups and downs of the colander in the pot, and the beef is browned and ready to be salvaged for serving.
Except for individual ingredients such as Chest Neighbourhood Pastry, most of the beef parts don't need to be shabu-shabu for too long, which will cause the meat to get old and affect the taste!
In the world of hotpot, dipping sauce is an irreplaceable soul. The Sichuan-style garlic oil dish/chili dry dish, and the Beijing-style sesame sauce, fermented bean curd and chive flower, are representative of their respective flavors.
The dipping sauces of Teochew Beef Hot Pot are also unique, the most classic is of course the sacha sauce and Teochew chili sauce, but you can also choose soy sauce, Puning bean sauce, fried garlic oil, cilantro, ginger and other flavors to make your own.
Teochew chefs break down beef extremely finely, and a cow can be broken down into dozens of different parts, of which only about 35% can be used for shabu-shabu, while the rest is made into beef meatballs, beef tendon meatballs, beef patties, and so on.
The best parts, however, are the ones that only yield a few plates per cow. For example, gourmets would never miss out on - Chest Pasture.
Although the name of "Chest Neighbourhood Pastry" resembles fat, it is actually a layer of soft tissue in cow's chest. After being sautéed in a pot for about 3 minutes, the taste will become crispy and the more you chew, the more delicious and full of fragrance you will get.
Name: Comrade Cow Beef Hot Pot
Address: Shop 9, 1/F, back row, Block E, 23 Shui Mun Street, Taiping Road
"Sweet, just the way it was when I was a kid."
With a full stomach from the Beef Hot Pot, it's only natural to take a mid-afternoon The first thing you need to do is to take a walk. A leisurely walk around the Pai Fang Street, the century-old store Hu Rongquan so unexpectedly appeared.
As we all know, sweets are not the same as regular meals, they are packed in another stomach. Even if you are full, it will not affect the share of eating sweets.
So, just sit down on the street and have a bowl of sweet soup!
As one of the two major branches of traditional Guangdong desserts, Teochew Sweet Soup and Canton Style Sugar Water actually have their own strengths. Canton style sweet soup uses beans, nuts and fruits as the main ingredients, such as red bean paste, green bean paste, sesame paste, papaya and snow fungus.
Teochew sweet soup is sweeter and thicker, drinking full of happiness, such as taro soup, golden melon taro puree, green bean cooler, clear heart pills, paste roasted white fruit and so on.
In the Hu Rongquan Sweet Soup is the traditional white fruit and snow fungus, and quail eggs that have been boiled to an amber color with sugar, and the mother duck twist has a cute little pointy beak.
It can be served with a savory spring roll with the same mung bean filling to neutralize the heat of the fried exterior. If you can still stomach it, there's a variety of kuey teow to choose from too.
Name: Hu Rongquan
Address: 183-185 Taiping Road
"The wind is blowing from the north, and it's time for sashimi."
Sashimi, or "chopped fish" as it was known in ancient times, is a dish made from slices of fresh fish and shellfish, dipped in a sauce and eaten as a meal. When the wind blows from the north and the water cools, the fish becomes firmer, making it the perfect season for sashimi.
In Guangdong, Shunde, Chaoshan and Hakka have different ways of eating sashimi. Shunde sashimi is well knifed, with a wide range of ingredients and refreshing seasoning; Hakka sashimi is served in a rough style, accompanied by leftover mash from brewing or garlic vinegar, which is sweet and sour in the mouth; and Teochew sashimi pursues a dry fish meat with a soft texture, a complex flavor profile of sauces, and more variations between the texture and taste of the accompanying dishes.
We ordered a platter of sashimi with shrimp sashimi. The grass carp is skinless and boned, and after careful suspension and air-drying, the fish is soft and tough with a very special texture after the water content in the fish is reduced. The contrast between the thinly sliced, cicada-wing-like fish and the thickly sliced, smooth, and full-bodied fish is a perfect example of the nuances of taste.
Soybean paste, sesame oil, soy sauce, cilantro, celery, onion, shredded radish, peanut rice, preserved vegetables, poppy seeds, garlic flakes, chili peppers ...... Two or three of these flavors can be blended to create a change in taste, and there are crispy, crisp, and moist with different variations in texture, which is literally an infinite number of combinations possible.
Especially the sweet and sour water tender popcorn, crisp and fresh flavor of the preserved vegetables, between the many ingredients, brushing out their own unique sense of presence, and sashimi collision with the sparks make a particularly impressive.
If you're familiar with the novels of Jin Yong, you may recall Huang Rong's famous dish, which uses five meats to create a complex change in taste, alluding to the number of plum blossoms in the five-five plum blossom "who's the flute to listen to the falling plum".
In addition to the sashimi, the other extreme flavor comes from the thin shells - also known as seaweed - an extremely small, but extremely tasty small seafood that is a natural match for the special aroma of the gold.
Hand-peeling the thin shells is a great test of patience, but there is plenty of patience for this delicious bite. In order to preserve the freshness of the thin shells for a longer period of time, after "dicing", "soaking", "beating", "fishing", "fishing", "shelling", and "peeling", we can make the thin shells by hand, and then we can make the thin shells by hand, and then we can make the thin shells by hand.
Half a bowl of fried thin-shelled rice mixed with half a bowl of white rice is human happiness.
In Chaozhou, thin-shelled rice is not rice, and fish rice is not rice.
Fish rice is the practice of fishermen to salvage fresh sea fish for easy preservation and cook it directly with seawater. It is the simplest way of processing and retains the original fishermen's flavor.
One layer of salt and one layer of fish are put into a traditional bamboo basket and then boiled in a specific proportion of salted water, which takes away the water from the fish and stimulates a more distinctive sweet flavor, and then naturally cools down to become fish rice.
The seemingly plain Barangay fish rice, served with a small dish of Puning soy milk, is soft and tender, with delicate flavors, and can be said to be a representative of the culinary world of the road to simplicity.
Shop name: Pin Xianke - Fish Sang Theme Restaurant
Address: No. 23, Sheung Shui Men Street, in the cultural and creative park in the old part of the Fu Xue
"The scene shocked the restaurant"
In the Han Shanglou, you can eat the orthodox Cantonese morning tea, and also taste the traditional Chaozhou cuisine. traditional Chaozhou cuisine, and if you're not in a hurry, you can opt for morning tea + lunch straight down the line.
As soon as I came in, I was overwhelmed by the grandeur of the two halls, and if I hadn't arrived a little earlier, I might have had to wait for a seat.
A porridge and a bag of savory and sweet snacks, the product is very stable, is closed eyes point can not go wrong.
Goji Berry Pork Liver Congee, pork liver to maintain just the right degree of ripeness, crisp and tender, no fishy flavor, the aroma of wolfberry leaves by the hot congee to stimulate, very suitable for the morning appetite.
Pan-fried taro silk cake, the appearance of fried to crispy, a bite is a rich taro flavor, salty and not greasy. The charm of traditional dim sum never fades with time, but depends on how modern chefs reinterpret it wonderfully.
After the fried dim sum, there is another dish of boiled mustard greens. Also a traditional dish, the mustard greens are boiled softly in a broth that is sweet and fresh, just right for the early fall fire.
Fried kuey teow meat, panko cut into small dices and seasoned, wrapped in preserved skin, steamed and then deep-fried, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, fragrant but not greasy. The main ingredients of shrimp jujube are sea shrimp and pork, both of which are traditional Chaoshan snacks that can be served with a sweet and refreshing orange oil sauce to relieve the greasiness. Yes that's right, another new sauce has emerged.
Name: Han Shanglou Restaurant
Address: Fenghuang Chau Park, West Fenghuang Chau Road
"It all starts with a bowl of white congee."
Remember the fish and rice mentioned earlier? The fact that the snack hits cold is where it really belongs.
Pledges and sea bowls in the stalls in rows stand rich and neat, most of the food is prepared in advance, to a bowl of white porridge, with a few favorite small dishes, is a perfect late-night snack.
The black is olive groceries, the gold is fried tofu, and the heart has long been longing to come to Chaozhou must not miss - raw pickles. If you haven't eaten raw pickles, you haven't really touched the soul of Teochew cuisine.
Raw marinade is also an ancient cooking method, fishermen from the Chaoshan region, soy sauce as the base, add onion, ginger and garlic, chili, fish sauce, coriander, sesame oil, etc., in accordance with a certain proportion of the marinade, will be cleaned seafood into the soaking, as little as half an hour, as much as a day, can be on the table.
Crab, shrimp, shrimp, oysters, blood clams, clams and various shellfish, many seafood can be made into a raw marinade to eat. Under the stimulation of spices, the "freshness" of raw pickled seafood can be maximally preserved, forming a unique flavor that is quite mouth-watering, and has been jokingly referred to as "Chaoshan poison". For raw pickle lovers, as soon as you take the first bite of raw pickle, you start to enter the realm of all other things are floating clouds.
Raw pickles are more heavily flavored, and some are slightly chilled in advance to sterilize them and add a chilly texture. So it's best to start enjoying raw marinades at the middle or end of a late-night meal, to avoid immediate gastrointestinal irritation and to avoid letting the heavy flavoring interfere with the rest of the meal.
For a seriously filling meal, order the Fried Kuey Teow and Oyster Roast.
The Teochew region refers to all kinds of processed food made from rice flour, flour and potato flour as kuey teow. Kuey teow is made by grinding rice into powder, adding water to make slurry, then steaming it into thin slices, and finally cutting it into strips. It is one of the important staple foods in Chaoshan, and fried kuey teow, kuey teow soup, or dry salted kuey teow are all very common ways to make it.
The fried kuey teow is soft and chewy, the bean sprouts are refreshing, and the chopped green onions are flavorful, in a very stall-like style.
The Oyster Roast is fresh oysters mixed with potato flour, fried with egg until crispy, sprinkled with chopped green onion and cilantro, and served hot with fish sauce. The skin is crispy and the oysters are smooth and tender, and the contrast in texture brings out the freshness of the oysters themselves.
Name: Fat Sister's White Congee
Address: 50 meters south of the intersection of Xirong Road and Jingrong Road
"Though they are all called intestinal noodles, we are not the same."
Intestinal noodles are a fairly common food in the Guangdong area, but they are obviously the same. intestinal noodles, when it comes to Chiu Chow has its own characteristics from the filling to the sauce.
The Cantonese style bowel tie tends to have more skin and less filling, and the filling ingredients are not too complicated, whether it is egg sausage, beef sausage or shrimp sausage, it is simple and original, and the point of the store's own sauce sauce to enhance the flavor.
Teochew rice noodle is a thin skin wrapped with a lot of fillings, this Zaiyang rice noodle with cabbage, bamboo shoots, enoki mushrooms, dried shiitake mushrooms, dried vegetables as fillings, poured with thick marinade, more inclined to the thick and fragrant style.
Name: Zai Yang Vermicelli
Address: No. 5, Zai Yang Lane, Taiping Road
"No goose has ever left Chaoshan alive"
In Chaoshan, if shabu-shabu is the highest form of honor for a cow, then it's the highest form of honor to make marinated noodles. In Chaozhou, if shabu-shabu is the highest honor for a cow, then making marinated goose is the greatest respect for a goose.
Unlike Sichuan marinade, which is spicy, and Cantonese marinade, which is salty and sweet, Teochew marinade has a mellow, rich flavor and a sweet aftertaste. Each of the old store's aged brine soup, is the soul of the brine goose, every day when the deployment of the will be slightly adjusted, relying on the owner's experience accumulated over the years.
Chaozhou marinated goose with local lion head goose, large, slightly rough meat. But after brining, the goose liver texture tender, melt in the mouth, with a dish of fresh and sour taste of garlic vinegar, fragrant but not greasy. The goose meat is delicate, the goose wings are crisp, the kidneys are soft, and each part of the foie gras maximizes its flavorful flair.
Especially the old goose head, rich in collagen, the thin skin fully absorbed the complex smell of spices in the marinade, long flavor, gourmets will choose to pair with high-quality aged whisky, so that the aroma of both get more fully released.
A platter to fully experience the deliciousness of the marinated goose, followed by a bowl of aromatic and slightly spicy kuey teow, or a bowl of refreshing beef ball soup, is a very satisfying meal.
Shop name: Ding Shang Chao Goose
Address: Huan Cheng North Road, color porcelain dormitory, building 13, door No. 3-4
"the collision of tradition and modernity"
Teochew is a traditional customs and cuisine, the inheritance of the place very well. Young people returning to their hometowns and foreign tourists have also brought modern delicacies. Tea houses and cafes can co-exist here, and traditional snacks and exotic desserts are equally loved.
Order a pot of Teochew kung fu tea and listen to Teochew opera and old favorites at the traditional Jai Yang Tea House.
Name: Jaiyang Teahouse
Address: 6 Yingju Lane, Yi'an Road (Bamboo and Wooden Door)
Try a cup of coffee with phoenix monocotyledon at Kicking Peach Coffee, a converted old mansion, and linger on the rooftop looking at the undulating roofs of the old house.
Shop name: Titalk cafe Kick Peach Coffee
Address: 19 Zao Lane
On the bustling Pai Fang Street, try grass kuey teow, a traditional heat-cleansing snack, or pack a sweet and sour licorice fruit.
Stroll to the other side of the Kaiyuan Temple, you can also find the young people's favorite sea salt cheese milk mango sheer ice, smooth cheese, ice bottom delicate, completely not lose the north of the net red dessert store.
Guangji Bridge and Kaiyuan Temple do not intend to say too much, the classical beauty of the building itself is worth a look, the river after night, the Zen Temple in the early morning, are my favorite atmosphere, suitable for a quiet day slowly stroll.
Now I think of the most impressive, may be the lotus wind chime of the Kaiyuan Temple? True. The sound of Sanskrit curls.
Live in the B&B is the Chaozhou Oasis courtyard, the owner of the Moroccan trip back to the inspiration, remodeling a local old Republican mansion, a lot of small details are very thoughtful.
The two cats are so cute that, as I said at the beginning, apart from going out to forage for food, the greatest pleasure is to stay in the courtyard and laze around with the cats.
This is probably my favorite state of residence, not necessarily luxury, but certainly comfortable, so that people want to stay.
To conclude, let's talk about Chaozhou food. History and fashion meet in this thousand-year-old city, and accidentally collide with more delicious possibilities, perhaps this is the unique charm of Chaozhou.
In Chiu Chow, food is both urban and sophisticated, traditional and trendy, with luxurious restaurants and unimpressive night snack stalls, each with its own taste and texture, and the battlefield is only at the tip of the diner's tongue.
At least for me, it's a "no-brainer" to eat in Chiu Chow.
Less is More
Aesthetics of Simple Living
The first step in the process is to create a new, more simple, and more efficient way of living.