Current location - Recipe Complete Network - Fat reduction meal recipes - This is how to feed this turtle, and what are the habits of this turtle?
This is how to feed this turtle, and what are the habits of this turtle?
Sweat, this is a common guest of our turtle family: small Brazilian turtle! Give you some information and my secret recipe:

Turtle turtle feeding easy to make mistakes in the common sense

Author: ransion Source: Cngui.COM Turtle Friends Home Time: 2007-11-24 22:23:12

One, the quality of the water:

Wrong 1: constantly replace the water, or even a day to replace a number of times, think this can be guarantee water quality, but do not know the turtle simply can not adapt to the constant changes in temperature, resulting in indigestion;

Solution: generally 1 day ~ 2 days to change the water 1 time is enough, as long as the water is not muddy, no odor can be. If combined with a filtration system, it is basically possible to not change the water for a long time.

Mistake 2: Using tap water to feed turtles directly, not knowing that tap water contains a lot of chlorine (caused by bleach, which is used to kill harmful microorganisms in the water), and the water quality is strongly alkaline, which will cause turtles to have rotting skins, rotting nails, and white eyes;

Resolution: To feed turtles with tap water, the tap water must be placed in the sun for more than 3 days or add baking soda to eliminate the chlorine in the water. chlorine.

Mistake 3: Feeding after the water change, thinking that the food eaten by the turtles will not be contaminated by the water, but forgetting to clean up the food residues and poop after eating, resulting in water contamination.

Solution: Change the water half an hour after feeding, and clean the container when changing the water. If the water itself is polluted, you can change the water first, but do not add too much new water, to the turtle's abdomen is enough, to be fed after half an hour and then change the water.

Two, feeding:

Error 1: food single, long-term feeding turtle food, most of the turtle food on the market now is not the quality of the quality, no nutrition is also expensive, resulting in turtle malnutrition disease, dry eyes, but also thought it was white eye disease!

Solution: feed more different kinds of food, food diversity is the guarantee of turtle health. In addition, from time to time to add some vitamins, calcium tablets, hygromycin and so on.

Mistake 2: Tortoises can eat as much as they can give as much as they can eat, resulting in excessive growth or even death of tortoises!

Solution: half starved when feeding the fundamental, the information on the amount of feeding to the tortoise 1 hour to eat up the limit, but that is the experience of the feedlot, I only give my tortoise 20 minutes to eat, eat not finished, 2 days later to talk about it. 2 days of hungry don't look for me!

Mistake 3: In order to economize on food, fish out what you can't finish this time, freeze it, and feed it next time. Lead to food deterioration, resulting in indigestion and poisoning of turtles;

Solution: Throw away what you can't eat, there is no other way, so how much feeding should be appropriate is to throw a few times to summarize, not how much percent of the body weight can be said clearly.

Mistake 4, frozen food, directly thrown to the turtle to eat, the result of what to eat what pull, indigestion. It also causes sudden changes in water temperature, colds, pneumonia, and serious illnesses!

Solution: Food must be thawed to room temperature before feeding.

Three, feeding environment:

Wrong 1: water turtles water depth is not over the back, resulting in uneven wetting of the turtle body parts, turtle growth is limited, into deformity;

Solution: the water depth is over the back, so that the nature of the water turtles swimming to release.

Mistake 2: Place cement products in the water as land. Cement has strong alkaline, resulting in water pollution, turtle rotten nails, rotting skin, white eyes. This is my experience, my home Gwi is because of this, back and forth onset of N times, finally found this problem, immediately removed, to now, Gwi are very healthy.

Solution: take out the cement products and throw them in the garbage!

Mistake #3: Letting the turtles enjoy the air conditioning together. Mostly unintentional, but this unintentional, is the turtle's fatal mistake. The family opened the air conditioning, the tortoise is placed in the home, the ambient temperature dropped 10 degrees at once! "May I ask the experts, how come my tortoise is barking?" This is a question that many turtle friends ask, how? Pneumonia! Tortoises in nature will only get pneumonia in spring and fall, but most of the ones raised artificially get pneumonia in summer, and the reason is the air conditioner.

Solution: Keep your turtle away from air conditioning.

Mistake 4: There is no sunlight in the environment for a long time, and they are not given sunlight. This causes soft nails, soft legs and malnutrition in turtles.

Solution: sunbathing at least 1 time a week (except hibernation), before 10 am or after 5 pm sun. Depending on the region, some places may not have the sun at this time, so you can grasp it yourself, and mainly pay attention to the temperature is not too high. The temperature in the sun at noon can reach 40 degrees, which will kill the turtle.

Wrong 5: half-water turtles, tortoises nest use newspaper as bedding material. This is because the ink used to print newspaper contains heavy lead, causing lead poisoning in turtles!

Solution: Refuse to use newspaper as bedding.

Mistake #6: With cold weather approaching, some turtle lovers have already started preparing their turtles for hibernation. Soak in warm water so that turtles empty the body of dirt is the first step in the preparation for hibernation, but many people do not have a concept of this warm water, use the water heater directly release water, hand feel the water temperature is not cold or hot, just give the turtles soak! Resulting in the water temperature is much higher than the ambient temperature, resulting in turtles cold, pneumonia!

Resolution: The water must be soaked with a heating rod, first set the temperature scale of the heating rod at 3 degrees above the ambient temperature scale, put the turtle into the water level over the back. Turn on the power, let the water temperature rise slowly, to the set temperature, let the water temperature constant for 10 minutes, and then adjust the set temperature 3 degrees, before and after the temperature difference control within 6 degrees, let the water temperature constant for 20 minutes. Lower the set temperature by 3 degrees, let the water temperature remain constant for 10 minutes, lower the set temperature by 3 degrees again and let the water temperature remain constant for 20 minutes. The soak is complete.

If there is a big temperature difference between indoor and outdoor, do not move the turtle between indoor and outdoor, in short, do not let the turtle experience a temperature difference of more than 6 degrees in a short period of time.

Four, treatment:

Error 1: Use salt water to disinfect the sick turtles that are kept dry. Most of the turtles we keep now are freshwater turtles and are repulsed by salt. After a day of dry feeding, the mouth is dry, suddenly there is water and not open to drink? The result is excessive salt intake, dehydration in the body or even death!

Solution: If a dry-keeping turtle needs to soak in disinfectant, first soak it in fresh water for 5~10 minutes, then soak it in disinfectant, and use salt water as little as possible.

Notice before keeping:

Many people have experience in keeping turtles, but more than half of them either die or are given away or released, which is not good for the environment and turtles, so I hope that you will think twice before buying turtles to keep at home. I hope you will think twice before you buy a tortoise, so that you will not harm the tortoise and fill the businessman's pockets.

1. Measure your financial ability (turtle + equipment + feed + medicine).

2. Ask yourself how much you know about the turtle you want to keep (habits, whether it is a conservation animal).

3. Do you have enough space (you need to calculate the size of the turtle when it grows to its maximum size).

4. Whether you have the heart and patience to raise them.

5. It's best to find an expert (at least) as a consultant.

How to buy:

If you decide to buy one or more Brazilian tortoises, the following characteristics should help you buy a red tortoise or other varieties of colorful tortoises:

One, observe the tortoise you want to buy carefully! Does it show any natural movement to escape (as long as the pot allows it to escape)? Does it try to dive to escape when a person approaches the pot? Turtles that have difficulty swimming or diving, have clogged nostrils, or have swollen, dilated eyes are at the end of their lives and should not be purchased.

Second, most healthy turtles have uninjured shells, which means that the shells are uniformly shaped and normal, with no missing links. If the shell is "soft" to the touch, it is suffering from chondromalacia. This defect can be salvaged to a limited extent, but it is a lifelong condition of having a disproportionate carapace.

Third, ask the turtle seller to feed the turtles, and watch which one or how many turtles are the first to eat, this can also determine their health. You should be careful with tortoises that refuse to eat the feed, because they are either sick or have not yet adapted to the new feed.

Four, if you still like the turtles you see, you should also consider that these cute little guys will not be little guys forever, and in the future they will need more space. If conditions are favorable, they will grow very quickly, and under your care, the carapace length will grow to twenty-five or thirty centimeters! A growing pair of red tortoises will need about 100 liters of water to swim in, and they don't look so green and cute when they grow up. However, for those who love tortoises, they will always be cute. A deficiency of calcium and vitamins can cause "rickets", which is a condition in which you can press your finger on the back of the turtle's armor, causing a small indentation in the armor. This is called "rickets".

Maintaining water quality:

While Brazilian turtles are the easiest and least fussy aquarium animals to raise, there is one drawback: they excrete too quickly, and because of the high temperatures, the leftover feed tends to rot, so the water is always smelly. Only two days after the water change, and then become a pool of muddy soup, even the Brazilian turtles are almost invisible, this is because of the single-celled algae reproduction, the water has enough nutrients, the temperature is suitable, green algae breeding extremely fast.

Several experiments have been conducted to try to keep the water clear with chemicals, but the results have not been satisfactory. The use of CHlNOSOL (one gram to 30 liters of water) kept the water clear and odorless for a week, but the debris and rotting feces stirred up by the turtles made the water even dirtier. Brazilian turtles live in this water quality for a long time, whether harmful coliform bacteria has not yet been determined, and there is no certainty that this water with chemicals have injured the internal organs of animals, so it is best not to use chemicals.

The easiest way is to change the water completely. Drain, pump and dump the old dirty water four hours after feeding. Then scrub the walls and bottom of the container with a medium-hard brush and water. To clean the container, place the turtle in a plastic tub or on land at the edge of the pool - where it can't run away, of course. Fill it with fresh water at the right temperature and then return the turtle to the water.

Some species of bog or aquatic turtles are not as comfortable with a complete water change, but the Brazilian tortoise will soon become accustomed to the practice and the disruption it causes. There is still a disadvantage of changing the water completely, it will induce the turtles to excrete feces in their intestines faster and make the water dirty again, so it is better to check the tank (pool) soon after the water change to remove the feces.

The need for light:

Many turtles need to bask in the sun, like the Brazilian turtles released in some pools are often seen stretching out their heads, feet and limbs under the scorching sun, with their eyes closed in a leisurely manner. Sunbathing kills bacteria on the shell, prevents the shell from becoming soft and brittle, and provides warmth. These functions require ultraviolet rays, which are important to turtles. Therefore, when you want your turtle to enjoy the warm sunshine, don't just let it stay in the water and try not to let it bask in the sun through the glass, because the UV green can be easily blocked. If you are afraid of letting it dry too long and forget to take it back, you can set up a half-water place so that it can be fully exposed to the sunlight as well as soaking in the water. It is best to let it sunbathe for one hour to two hours daily, and regularly brush the turtle's back with a soft toothbrush to remove parasites.

Hatchling rearing:

Hatchlings can be reared without difficulty in a flat-bottomed container, such as a plastic pot, a plastic tank or box, or an aquarium, and the water should not be too deep. A commercially available flat, shallow plastic tank with an island and a plastic coconut tree in the center is the least suitable because (1) it is too small. (2) It's impossible to add an electric heater. (3) Misleading users to use the island as a feeding place. Because Brazilian turtles feed exclusively in the water, the result could be a pile of feed on the island while the turtles starve.

There are some specific minimum requirements for an ideal breeding site. Each hatchling should have five liters of water to move around in, and the water should be no deeper than the length of the turtle, so that it can breathe at the surface with its feet on the ground. It is also important to make an island for them out of bricks and stones, floating islands are not suitable, as the hatchlings often fail to climb up them and the effort is wasted. On the other hand, be careful that the island and decorations don't become dangerous obstacles that could snag the hatchlings and cause them to drown.

The water temperature that the hatchlings can adapt to is about 25 degrees Celsius; when it's cold, the air above the container should also be warmed, and adding a cover light to the tank can help. If the water temperature is still too low, add electric heaters to the water - adjustable if possible. If you buy a higher-energy (100 to 150 watt) heater now, it will be enough to handle a larger tank when the turtles are bigger. Heaters sold at aquarium stores should be placed under the surface of the water, and care should be taken to ensure that the heater and power cord do not snag the turtle.

It is especially important that the turtles have direct access to sunlight, so place the tank on a balcony or window sill, and if that is not possible, give the hatchlings ultraviolet light once or twice a week for three to five minutes each time. The UV light should not be too close to the tortoises, so as not to harm them with too much light. Sunlight is best, but care should be taken to ensure that the glass of the container used does not filter out the necessary UV light. The hatchlings can be kept on a balcony throughout the summer. To prevent birds from picking them up, you can cover the box with a net. It is absolutely necessary to prevent the tortoises from climbing out of the breeding box, or else you may find the wiring of the heater under the bed or in a corner, or even a bridge for the tortoises to escape, because the tortoises are very skillful at crawling.

If algae (moss) grows on the tank, it's fine, but the water in the tank should not stink. The important thing is to change the water regularly, otherwise, due to the high temperature and the feces and leftover feed in the water, the hatchlings will be living in a puddle of stinky water, which will promote the growth of germs, so the water should be changed at least once a week.

Adult Turtle Husbandry:

Adult turtles require a much larger tank so that they have plenty of room to move around. To create an ideal environment, a growing pair of tortoises needs at least a hundred liters of water to move around in

The size of the tank can make the tortoises fat and sluggish very quickly, and if they are dropped on all fours, they will drown because they can't turn over.

The size of the breeding container has also been known to cause cases of tortoise nail stunting. Large plastic pots, aquariums, or large wooden containers with plastic sheeting inside can be used as turtle tanks. Tanks with drainage holes are the most convenient, as they are easy to change water and clean frequently. If the cement tank is newly made, it is prudent to paint it with safety paint or wash it several times to prevent harmful substances from leaking out of the cement, which can be dissolved in water and enter into the animal's body. There should be a fixed (not floating) "island" in the tank, which can also be suspended, and it should be easy for the turtle to climb up. It can be made of wood or plastic boards with artificial turf or brown mats on top. Or use plastic pots filled with stones or sand to put in, hanging in the tank as "land" can also be.

The part of the land or island in the tank can be filled with soil, peat or sand, and this part should be warmed up every few days. Eggs laid by females in this area will have the best chance of hatching, and it is better to shine a light on this area (when it is cold). It is best not to supplement the bottom of the tank with sand or gravel, as this will make water changes and cleaning more difficult. In addition to frequent (daily if necessary) water changes, installing filtration equipment can remove suspended matter from the water. Since dissolved substances in the water have a great impact on the turtle's health, filtration equipment cannot completely replace water changes.

In order to make the water temperature in the tank reach the temperature that the turtles like, we use the electric heaters used in aquariums, and we should prevent the equipment and wiring from getting stuck on the turtles when installing the equipment. It is also possible to place an electric felt on the bottom outside of the tank, and a synthetic resin rubber can be used as an insulating material under the electric felt. However, the water temperature should not be higher than the outside temperature (about 25 to 30 degrees Celsius), so as not to catch cold. On land, colorful tortoises also need a warm place, because they are thermophiles and need sunlight to reach the proper body temperature. If there is not enough sunlight on the balcony or in the open air, the land part should be warmed up by a lamp cover. Colorful tortoises kept indoors or in places with insufficient sunlight lack ultraviolet rays, and should be irradiated with ultraviolet lamps two or three times a week for five minutes each time. The lamp should be installed on the lid of the tank.

Diet: what do turtles actually eat? A lot of people buy when they buy the pet sellers recommend the "special turtle food", go back to find that turtles do not love to eat or even do not eat, in fact, those so-called "turtle food" is basically a scam, the traders only to make money to care about just buy a weak turtle! The dead or alive to sell that kind of turtle simply do not eat the garbage to you, they can not wait for you to raise the dead quickly go to buy another one, so do not buy the turtle recommended by the so-called "turtle food", raise the dead I'm not responsible for oh! Xixibi red ear turtles mainly eat meat, small fish and shrimp, loach, earthworms, insects, etc., I often kill flies to it as a snack, just bought a small turtle turtle's ability to eat are generally relatively weak, will not be able to capture live food, so this time you need to feed it a little bit of feeding it to it to feed to be very patient, cut the fresh meat into mung beans in size, with tweezers clamped to the small turtles and turtles slowly stretched to the front of the nose, it will be careful to sniff it to eat, and sometimes the reaction is very slow, so you can not rush to eat, so it should not be too fast. Response is very slow, so you can not be in a hurry, try a few more times practice makes perfect, generally a feed a *** feed a cigarette butt so much meat can be small time to feed more a week to feed three or four times, let it quickly adapt to the environment to grow up, because hungry for a long time it will be hibernation, too small turtles have hibernation often wake up again, so to feed more, to avoid it hibernation, to grow to a larger than a matchbox when it will generally be When it grows to be bigger than a matchbox, it will usually eat by itself, then you can put some very small fish and shrimp in the water for it to practice feeding, don't put too much, otherwise it will bite a lot of dead but don't eat, so as long as it takes up to one day the water will be stinky and unpleasant, the same goes for feeding meat, don't waste, don't let it eat as much as you want to feed it or it will be bad, my turtle used to hold up its head and limbs often and it was very funny, and it actually held up and vomited a couple of times. I can see how useless the turtle is! The result of feeding too much will also make the turtle grow too fast, and it will not be fun and cute when it grows up, unless you are keeping it for food, hehe! I have a friend and I bought a tortoise together, the results feed too much, two years less than to grow up to the bowl mouth so big, the pattern of the body all gone, gray and very ugly, but also issued a huffing and puffing sound, dinosaurs in general, so big when you can already eat a week a pot of loach, visible horror, so grow up to feed once a week on it, it's best to feed some small fish, so that you can make up for the calcium to let it grow the shell!

Daily life

Daily life: the growth of the turtle will encounter some special physiological phenomena, if not handled properly will also have a great impact, which gives me the deepest impression is molting.

Turtles and snakes are close relatives, so they also molt, but unlike snakes, turtles shed their scales! My turtle is in four years old when molting, then there is no digital camera, so there is no record of this strange look, here to warn you is the turtle turtle molting process do not help it, it will be able to deal with it, I just because I do not know "help help" it caused lifelong damage, here to the poor turtle to apologize. Here to the poor turtle to apologize, the following will be carefully introduced turtle molt is what it looks like, if your turtle turtle to the age of molt, then congratulations, this shows that you have turtle turtle in front of the correct method, otherwise it will not live to this day, huh!

Molting: the turtle's scaly armor will first skin up, just like a piece of fish scale sticking on it, pay attention! Never help it to uncover those scales! The melon ripe will naturally fall, my turtle is because to help it uncovered some seem to have to fall off the scales of the armor led to shell injury, one or two years to grow well, grow well there will leave scars, no longer have a beautiful pattern, or infected with bacterial shell rot directly to its life, molt when it will fall off the old skin, like a snake molt, but not all at once into a new, but hanging on like wearing a wedding dress. Wedding dress, quite interesting, of course, do not help it to tear down, for the same reason as above, so the turtle molt you need to do is to keep the aquarium clean, often change the water. Molting is a sign that the turtle is growing up, after molting, the color and pattern of the turtle will be worse, not the same as the ugly duckling.

Cleaning: the turtle's nest needs to be cleaned often, because not only the water will breed algae, and turtles will also be poop Oh, not only to change the water and also to give the turtle a bath, otherwise the turtle's shell will be sticky moss, because the turtle's shell is very hard to grow hard, so it is necessary to regularly maintain the turtle will not be too dirty and rot off, how to bathe it? It is to use a small brush with bristles not too hard dipped in water to brush both sides of the shell clean, it is best to use an old toothbrush, the work is very simple, but it will scare the timid tortoise enough, the head, limbs and the small tail are shrunken tight, pay attention to the brush do not brush the head, because the brush bristles may zap the eyes and nostrils of the tortoise.

If you are lucky the turtle will grow filamentous green algae on the dorsal carapace, then it will become a green hair turtle, my turtle was like this one summer, and then because of feeding meat a lot of fat stained in the green hairs, it is difficult to clean up, I brushed off the green hairs.

Disease prevention and treatment: many turtles die because of disease, some diseases are visible, such as skin ulcers, carapace rot, eye disease, some diseases are difficult to detect, such as digestive disorders, parasites, etc., because the turtles are relatively small, so once the disease is difficult to cure or no rule of law, so we can only prevention as the main. First of all, we must keep the tank clean, the water can not stink before changing, turtles moss on the shell more than one should be brushed clean, often put the turtles in the sun under the sun, feed the things to be fresh and clean, on the bought loach, small fish, water earthworms must be washed, it is best to raise a few days, the body of the dirty things clean and then give the turtles to eat.

The main diseases that can be treated are skin ulcers, carapace rot, eye disease, found after the use of potassium permanganate solution to give the turtles a bath, pay attention to the solution should not be too thick, but also be careful not to let the turtles drink, the lighter should be able to cure, the heavier it depends on luck.

You can go to Turtle Friends Home (a website, search on Baidu) to take a look.

Misunderstanding 1: It is believed that the turtle armor is something dead, just a protective device for the turtle, the same as the shell of a snail, not part of the turtle's organism.

Correction: In fact, the turtle armor (including the thin-looking rim shield) only the outermost layer of very thin layer of keratin is dead, the keratin is distributed underneath a number of nerves, blood vessels and high-density connective tissue, if you touch the turtle armor, this vibration will be transmitted to the nerves underneath the turtle armor, the turtle can feel your touch, so when I was a child I often saw people to the edge of the turtle shell holes to thread the rope, and the pain can be imagined!

Misconception 2: that turtles are not afraid of falling because they have a hard, thick shell.

Correction: According to this logic, put you in a wooden box and push you down from the fifth floor, you will be fine! Turtle is actually very afraid of falling, tortoise shell knocked generally at that time can not see the injury, but the connective tissue under the tortoise shell and even the internal organs have been strongly shocked, the result of the light is rotten armor, heavy internal injuries!

Myth 3: Turtle armor is a bone, not good growth is a lack of calcium.

Correction: turtle armor and bones are not at all related to the same side, turtle armor and turtle nails, are keratin, its composition is basically a single protein, with the lizard's scales, bird feathers, mammalian hair homologous, turtle armor is below the skeleton, lack of calcium, lack of VD3 will only affect the development of bones leading to deformities, the growth of turtle armor has no effect, you can often see the shell turtle, turtle armor is growing up and the bones do not grow, excess armor is not growing. The reason for this is that the turtle's armor grows and the bones don't grow, so the excess armor has no place to go, and can only be caused by the edge of the turtle!

Small turtles can not hibernate! LZ! Feed it immediately!

Around November-April, when the temperature is below 15 degrees, the turtle gradually stops eating, and begins to enter the hibernation period. Water turtles hibernate best not to leave the water, otherwise they will get sick and die of water loss. Into the hibernation period, the room temperature should not be too high, 0-5 degrees is the most suitable, so that the turtle is not too active, to reduce the consumption of physical energy. If the temperature is too high, the turtle has been crawling, a lot of consumption of physical energy, is not good for the turtle. The turtle should be put in a tank with water for the winter, not too much water, the water can be put into the turtle's back, you can also put a square brick or stone inside the tank. You can also put a square brick or stone inside the tank so that the turtle can climb on it when it wants to bask in the sun. Pay attention to the water must not be frozen by ice, otherwise, the turtle will be frozen to death. The turtle tank can be moved indoors, placed in a place with 1-2 hours of sunlight, sunlight can be sterilized, as long as this is done, the winter is generally not sick, pay attention to the room temperature to maintain above freezing, you can be safe through the winter.

The real hibernation method is to lay wet thick sand inside the container and cover it with newspaper, the turtle will burrow into the sand and sleep on its own, and replenish water once a week to keep the sand and newspaper moist. Hibernation is a test for domesticated turtles. First you need to make sure your baby is healthy and free of disease. Turtles in poor health should never hibernate. Small and young turtles are not recommended to hibernate, it is difficult to survive the winter! You can prepare some sand for a turtle that is going to hibernate, but don't force it in if it won't climb in. Tortoises that do not hibernate in the sand can be placed in shallow water with a layer of wet cotton gauze over them to keep them moist and insulated. For tortoises hibernating in the sand, make sure the sand is clean and free of pollution. Keep the sand moist during the hibernation period. Tortoises may wake up during hibernation, so make sure they don't wake up and crawl where you can't find them. Also, never feed a turtle that wakes up during hibernation.

When the temperature drops below 13℃, it will start to enter hibernation, and during the whole wintering period, the head, tail and limbs are shrunk into the shell, the eyes are closed tightly, and it does not eat or move or excrete until it comes out of hibernation to move its position. If the environment is not suitable, it is difficult to enter hibernation. Turtle hibernation temperature in 1-10 ℃ is suitable. Higher than 10 ℃ is easy to cause the turtle's awakening, thus consuming physical strength, and cause the turtle's physical decline in the next year's growth and reproduction are unfavorable. Repeated hibernation and awakening within a hibernation period will also cause the death of the turtle. Temperatures below 0℃ will cause frostbite or even death of the tortoise. Therefore, when setting up a hibernation place for tortoises artificially, it is necessary to consider the factors of possible temperature changes.

White eye disease and pneumonia can be crushed (with a rolling pin), 1-3 grains at a time (according to the size of the turtle medicine), soaked in water. Sprinkle on it is better. But take it for what it's worth, oxytetracycline is so potent that putting it on without disease will poison the turtle! I have experienced! Or put medicine in the food, but the food should be small, is the turtle can swallow in one bite, or it will tear the food will not eat the medicine! Rotten nails can be sterilized with alcohol by sprinkling medicine (amoxicillin, oxytetracycline, cephalosporin are all good), or you can use a sterilized needle and dig up the rotten area and then sprinkle the medicine (it's a bit harsh, but you can't use this method on matchbox sized tortoises and smaller, it has to be a hand sized tortoise or larger to use this method). I hope this helps you! And turtles can hibernate by covering them with sand, exposing their heads, and putting in less water as long as it stays moist! Sprinkle some water when you see it dry! Turtle can be placed next to the heater, but do not move its position, easy to make it cold!

PS. There may be a problem with the water, do not use tap water, tap water should be exposed to the sun for three days! You can use cool white water or use mineral water! You can soak it with hygromycin or apply alcohol to sterilize it .

And don't cut the turtle's nails!!!!