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Why do I have a soft spot for the Beijing alley delicacy "burly belly"?

Padu, one of the old Beijing snacks. Many people think that Paodu is beef tripe and sheep tripe. In fact, there are thirteen different varieties of Paodu, which are also called "Thirteen Paodu eats".

In the TV series "Mansion Gate", after an argument between Bai Qiye and his grandson, they went to a small shop that specializes in fried tripe. The grandson and grandson ate 15 plates of fried tripe in one go, and their anger disappeared. , this is the impression that my belly had on me as a foodie before I came to Beijing.

I have been drifting in Beijing for almost ten years, and I have a special liking for Baodu, a Beijing-style "alley delicacy".

The so-called fried tripe is to cut the fresh tripe of cow or sheep into thin strips, "explode" it with boiling water and eat it with the prepared condiments. Although it uses beef and sheep offal, it is fragrant but not smelly and tastes great.

Paodu was first recorded in the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. Most of them were operated by Hui compatriots. Paodu was originally a snack and delicacy that the poor could afford. But since the end of the Qing Dynasty, eunuch families, children of the Eight Banners, especially people in Liyuan, have been eating to their stomachs. Liyuan celebrities such as Mei Lanfang, Ma Lianliang, Xiao Mushroom, Xiao Bai Yushuang, and Li Wanchun all love fried belly.

Anyone who has eaten Paodu knows that Paodu is also divided into Baiye, Duren, Sandan, Duling, Duban, etc. The one that is eaten more often is Baiye. Fry it in boiling water and eat it with the prepared sesame sauce. The texture is fresh and tender, the taste is crispy, and it pays attention to the "tooth feel". There is a saying called "Thirteen Eats of Burled Belly". It is said that during the Manchu and Qing Dynasties, many "Beile Ye" "in the flag" had different tastes and different "parts" that they liked to burst, so gradually formed ten Three different varieties of belly pops. Buried tripe is divided into bursting beef tripe and bursting lamb tripe. Beef tripe can usually be divided into four types: tripe kernel, thick head, louver, and louver tip; sheep tripe is divided into nine types: tripe kernel, tripe, tripe collar, mushroom head, tripe silk, tripe plate, food letter, mushroom, and gourd. Different parts have different tastes. If you have a good tooth, you can order tripe, shiitake, mushrooms and gourds to ensure you have a satisfying chew.

When popping, add onion, ginger, and peppercorn cooking wine to remove the fishy smell. Coriander, you must not be polite and risk your life to say hello. Eat the fried belly as you go. Don't pop too much at once. When you eat it, the bottom part will be cold. Because the fried belly cannot be re-cooked, it will be too old to chew. So each time you only need half a small bowl, about two taels. . When eating fried belly, you usually only take one piece in one mouthful. You should smear the bottom of the bowl with the coriander and green onions to dip into the sauce. If people around you think you're chewing a piece of gherkin, don't worry, you're already a seasoned connoisseur.

There is a saying in Beijing: "Beijing's snacks are in Xuanwu (now Xuanwu has been merged into Xicheng), and Xuanwu's snacks are in Niujie." There are many time-honored brands in Niujie, regardless of their "oddly small" appearance. But there are long queues every day, just to get a bite of delicious food. In Niujie, eating fried tripe is the first choice. The three Niujie fried tripe restaurants, Feng Man and Zhang, are all famous in Beijing. Let’s just say that although Lao Bao Du Man is a takeout stall at the input alley of Niujie Street, there is always a long queue every day, rain or shine!

The old restaurant is now located at No. 11 Niujie. Due to demolition in 2017, the old store originally located at No. 98-1 Nanheng West Street, Niujie was moved here. If you want to eat their fried belly, you have to be patient and get it right when it’s time to eat. Usually around 5pm, Laobaoduman shop starts to get busy. No need to shout out, new and old diners come here in droves. In addition to Niujie, there are also Baodu Shi in Tianqiao, Baodu Wang in Dong'an Market, Baodu Zhang in the back door, as well as Baoduwan, Baoduhuang, Baodu Ren, Baodu Yu, Baodu Wai, etc.

The fried tripe is crispy and fresh, not greasy and not greasy. It is said that it can also cure stomach problems. There is a saying among the people that what you eat is what you need to nourish yourself. The fried tripe is mainly beef tripe and lamb tripe. Beef tripe and sheep tripe replenish qi, detoxify, and nourish the spleen and stomach. Therefore, eating fried tripe has the effect of nourishing the stomach.

It is best to have some wine with the Baodu restaurant (of course, if it is a Halal-run Baodu restaurant, liquor is prohibited). The wine is of course "Bainiu Er", which is Niulanshan Erguotou in a white bottle. Drink Erliang Niu. Lanshan Erguotou, a plate of delicious food with a bottle of white wine, and two freshly baked sesame cakes is indeed one of the great pleasures in life, extremely carefree. The best time to eat belly fat is after a rain in the Beginning of Autumn, when it is neither cold nor hot. Old Beijingers will choose such a day to "eat autumn fat" and eat autumn fat. "Eat autumn fat" and eat autumn fat must have belly fat.

A plate of fried tripe, a bowl of side dishes, a plate of roast beef and mutton or a few sesame cakes with roast beef and mutton, this is the authentic taste of old Beijing.