? Reading Mr. Liang Zhenchuan's "Traditional Cuisine of Xiaoyi", I think of a proverb in Xiaoyi dialect, which says, "The tailor lost his scissors-the ruler (eating) is clear in the dry." On the surface, this two-part allegorical saying means that a clever tailor knows well even if he loses his scissors, but because of the homonym of "ruler" and "eating" in the Book of Filial Piety, "eating while doing" means only knowing and eating. In those days of famine, food is a scarce resource, and "tick in the hotel-eat guests" is not welcome. Today, when people are pursuing a better life, eating well has become synonymous with loving life. "Eating goods" is not only not derogatory, but also positive. The book "Xiaoyi Traditional Cuisine" is written for foodies, or for diners, which meets the requirements of the times. How can a person enjoy life when he doesn't even know how to eat? In Xiaoyi, if you want to "eat cleanly", you should first read Mr. Zhenchuan's Traditional Food of Xiaoyi. Opening this book is like walking into a food city, enjoying food and watching cooking programs. It has a feeling that "a cat with a pointed nose can't taste the smell", which makes people appetite. There are not only rich four dishes and eight bowls of miscellaneous braised dishes, but also delicious mutton roast, top rubbing and top sipping, as well as refreshing shredded mustard and old pickles. There are also fruit maotai and sour plum soup between meals, and so on. I will talk about my feelings about this book from the following aspects: the beauty of food, customs, writing and implication.

? First, food sharing. What is food? The so-called "delicious" of xiaoyi people means nothing more than those foods with good color, smell and taste. Our generation grew up hungry. The delicious food in our eyes is not necessarily the raw seafood and pizza sushi, but the boiled vegetables with mutton offal and dried cakes with oil flowers. Splash (Lamian Noodles), chip cutting, oven cooking, burning, mixing bowls, fried noodles, fishing slices, dipping slices, bald bowls, pancakes and steamed buns listed in this book are all our favorites. Therefore, the so-called delicacies are all painted with local color, rural brand and folk memory. Perhaps some foods, such as tea (camellia oleifera) and oblique noodles (rhombic noodles), will not be regarded as delicacies by foreigners or young people, but people who have experienced them will always relish them. Because this kind of food has a certain regional and inheritance, this book is called "Xiaoyi Traditional Cuisine".

The scope of "xiaoyi traditional cuisine" is not limited to cooked, fried, roasted and fried foods, but also includes some food raw materials, such as xiaoyi walnut, persimmon near water, green onion in kiln garden, Xinzhuang cabbage and so on. Although these agricultural and sideline products are "naked food", they are also delicious, so there are some folk sayings, such as "the persimmon in Liangjiayuan is really delicious, and you can suck it by peeling its toes", "Xinger must be independent, with melons in the front camp, melons in the back camp, and yam eggs in the cold spring of Shaquan", and "the garlic in Wu Tong Yam Weitun is not necessary for women in Caocun". Are the women in Cao village handsome or ugly? There are many arguments among the people. As everyone knows, this is a commonly used foil art in folk proverbs, and it is also a kind of ridicule. The xiaoyi proverb "plum blossoms in the white stone cliff, women in the fish" and the Shaanxi proverb "charcoal in the slate wayaobao in Qingjian, the ternary daughter-in-law doesn't have to look at it" all use this technique. Is Sanyuan's wife handsome or ugly? According to relevant information, Sanyuan girl is not ugly, but she is sharp-tongued and picky about food, so we don't need to delve into it.

? Second, learn beautiful scenery and customs. As mentioned above, food is often branded with local and folk customs, which is a common practice, and so is the wedding reception. The article "four dishes and eight bowls of seats" describes the big meal in the wedding banquet. "When you are full and warm, you will know etiquette and know honor and disgrace." In those years of famine, even the grand wedding banquet, even the gentle Mr. Zhenchuan, neglected a lot of etiquette, so that he reached down his throat. In fact, many foods at the wedding banquet, such as "Lotus Twisting" and "Ruyi Walnut Worm", are very meaningful to ponder carefully. There are also many special foods in the mourning of filial piety, such as "hemp ball" and "head drop". Xiaoyi also has the custom of "offering sacrifices to the seventh". Every time the place of sacrifice is different, the recipes are different. Therefore, there is a saying that "the first seven cakes are steamed, the last seven cakes are burned, the last seven cakes are baked in jiaozi, and the last seven cakes are baked, so don't wait". Why do you worship a particular food on a particular day? I'm afraid they all have certain folk significance, so there is no need to sacrifice on July 7, which means telling the dead to go to heaven with peace of mind and not to stay here. Xiaoyi people don't eat acne (pull-tab) on their birthdays, for fear that the joints of life will be cut off; And to eat Lamian Noodles, to cater to longevity, or even pull a noodle to the end. In fact, among the food customs of filial piety, festival food customs are quite distinctive. For example, every year in the twelfth lunar month, various dietary customs are introduced one after another, and there is a saying that "sick children are numb and sick, and orphans save their lives". "Madou" (also called "Madou") shared by one person and god at the beginning of the twelfth lunar month is a kind of broad bean that is soaked first, then boiled and then fried. Stiff and bite-resistant, it means "bite disaster". The "Li Er" (Laba porridge) enjoyed on the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month is used to worship the eight-valley star god; On the 23rd of the twelfth lunar month, "jars" (caramel) are used to worship the kitchen god. Eating Joule (jiaozi) on the first day of New Year's Day means "making friends when you are young". On the surface, this proverb shows the eating custom of the twelfth lunar month. In fact, it refers to a specific day by referring to a specific food, which reflects the situation that debts are getting higher and tighter every day in the twelfth lunar month, so there are sayings of "getting sick", "getting sick" and "saving lives". "Children look forward to the first month, adults worry about the twelfth month", and sometimes some foods will show the specific feelings of people with twists and turns.

? In this book, teacher Zhenchuan not only talked about the quality of ingredients, but also talked about the techniques and practices, and some also talked about the cultivation methods of ingredients. A kind of mutton sheep in Xiaoyi dialect, which I wrote as "Duoyang" in the Study of Rural Dialects, was interpreted as "captive fat sheep". However, in Mr. Zhenchuan's article "Standing Sheep", it was written as "Standing Sheep". To this end, he specially interviewed three or four relatives and learned that "farmers have two ways to raise sheep: one is that sheep workers drive sheep to graze outside, commonly known as" herding sheep "and" herding sheep "; The second is to leave one or two without joining the group and raise them at home alone. This kind of sheep is called' standing sheep'. " He also said: "Standing sheep has several characteristics: First, it does not follow the group and forages at home alone; Second,' standing sheep' can only be produced in ewes who have solved the sheep and refused to give up the lamb; Third,' Zhanyang' is mostly born in the same year, established in the same year and slaughtered in the same year, so its meat is tender and fragrant, and it is the top grade of mutton. Fourth,' standing sheep' consumes food and labor from morning till night, so a family can only' stand' one or two; Fifth,' Zhanyang' is specially raised and rarely eats grass, especially exposed aquatic plants. Most of them are fed with cereals, pods and corncobs. If necessary, there are beans and other materials, so' Zhanyang' grows fast and the meat is tender and delicious. " It took a lot of effort to make such an investigation and explanation. People's interpretation of dialects is easy to take for granted, often literal translation. Therefore, there are some explanations that "national A" (capable) is "the country's first-class talent" and "postscript" (running) means "don't worry", but there is a lot of knowledge in it, which requires more thinking before a more reasonable explanation can be drawn. Mr. Zhenchuan's explanation is reasonable.

? Third, the United States and China enjoy it together. Mr. Zhenchuan is a famous writer, dramatist and journalist, so his food works do not list recipes directly, but introduce the eating methods and practices stiffly. Instead, it combines one's own life experience and research results, cleverly conceives and entrusts. It can be said that every article is a beautiful prose.

? The beauty of Liang Wen lies not only in his choice of materials, conception and fluency in language, but also in his writing of hometown events in his hometown dialect, which makes people feel the charm of traditional cuisine in simple folk language. For example, in the article "Four dishes and eight bowls of seats", he first wrote a children's song called "Children get married, women get married, four dishes and eight bowls of seats, five chief and eight horses draw fists, full of oil, wine and meat to eat, and people to support in their stomachs". This nursery rhyme is not only filial (such as "silly eating" and "supporting people"), but also describes the banquet scene in dialect, "steaming a small bowl, buckling a big bowl, pouring the original soup and serving it", which fully creates the festive atmosphere. The article "Furnace Food" directly quotes the saying in Xiaoyi dialect that "raising a girl is a snack box, and raising a girl is a gas-crooked neck", which leads to related folk food. In Xiaoyi dialect, the word "Cheng" is "Yang", the daughter is called "female" and the son is called "elder sister", so it is difficult to understand the charm. People who are not filial are more difficult to understand folk customs. In fact, filial piety is still patriarchal. This proverb is nothing more than punishing a son for being unfilial and comforting a woman for happiness.

Xiao Yi has a children's song called "Pat the Oil Cake", which is sung by children while eating and playing. The content is: "Pat, pat, pat oil cake, jujube bean oil cake, green leek, salty and smelly after eating, carrot lump meat ..." Jujube beans, green leek, carrot mutton, this is "a recipe in xiaoyi. There is an xenophobia in the language of filial piety. If locals and locals "shoot Beijing dialect", they will be scolded for "eating China's material and traveling from south to north". Mr. Zhenchuan skillfully wrote filial piety with the word filial piety, which narrowed people's emotional distance and easily aroused people's resonance. However, it is not so easy to skillfully use dialects in works, and it needs repeated scrutiny to be natural and decent, otherwise it will give people a sense of affectation. In this respect, the romantic trilogy written by Mr. Zhenchuan and others makes us look handsome, which is difficult to do without a deep language foundation.

? Fourth, the United States and Italy jointly lead. The investigation and study of local culture is a systematic project. I spent 20 or 30 years systematically describing the pronunciation, vocabulary and grammar of Xiaoyi dialect, sorting out the common sayings and proverbs circulating between Xiaohe and Yishui, thus "making Xiaoyi dialect have a new way of inheritance for the first time, and Xiaoyi people have their own language and cultural classics for the first time". This is the study of rural dialects (the record of Xiaoyi dialect) and the interpretation of proverbs (the interpretation of Yi language). If we can further collect and sort out the food in the filial wedding banquet, funeral banquet, birthday banquet and holiday banquet, we can write a comprehensive book on filial piety. The local folk culture is embodied in people's daily necessities and so on. If we take this as an example, we can fully reflect the folk culture of filial piety by collecting and sorting out the costumes, houses, holiday customs and communication methods of filial piety. "If you want to have a good bite, you must watch the red fire running." I hope people of insight can realize the importance of sorting out folk culture and shoulder the mission of saving cultural heritage. I also hope that relevant government departments can organize local scholars to complete this complex project as soon as possible. aii