Forwarding an article written by a netizen - Suzhou Guanqian Street Food Guide. Delicious and affordable, I am drooling as I write this travel note. Thank you for your help. Just came back from Suzhou today. I was under too much pressure from work, and I just wanted to take advantage of the arrival of spring to go out for a walk, so I chose Suzhou and also went to the Humble Administrator’s Garden. I took the 8:00 train in the morning and arrived at 8:40. It was very chaotic when I went out, and everyone was right. There were people pulling carts everywhere, and I didn’t dare to sit on them. I originally wanted to take 202 to the Humble Administrator's Garden, but there are very few 202 buses, with an average bus frequency of 15 minutes, so I chose the 138 bus. In fact, just behind the 202 station, across a bridge, there are many cars going to various places to play. You just need to pay more attention and you can pull over. After getting off the car, there is a pedestrian street leading to the Humble Administrator's Garden. On the way to the Humble Administrator's Garden, you can pass by the famous Suzhou Museum. It's worth a visit. Personally, I think it's not that the cultural relics inside are so great, but that its architectural design is so beautiful. When we arrived at the Humble Administrator's Garden, there were so many people. Since it was a free trip, I walked around and looked at the small bridges, flowing water, pavilions and gardens. . . By the way, you can listen to the tour guide's explanation from the tour group next door, and you can generally take in the various scenery of the Humble Administrator's Garden. In the afternoon I went to Guanqian Street, eating and shopping along the way! Regarding the food on Guanqian Street, I am completely based on the introductions of netizens: Lu Gaojian (Wuxi Sauce Pork Ribs and Sauce Pork are 28 yuan a box, the taste is okay.) Address: No. 8 Guanqian Street, Suzhou (near Changfa Commercial Building ) Price: RMB 23 per person Introduction: A time-honored brand, the various cooked foods here taste very authentic, and the texture of the various meats is simply "spicy as hell". Recommended: vegetarian chicken, Wuxi sauce pork ribs, sauce meat, braised pork, sauce duck, egg pine. Huang Tianyuan Cake Shop (There were a lot of people, so I bought red and green cakes that I don’t know the names of. Anyway, when there were more people, they all tasted delicious.) Address: No. 86 Guanqian Street, Suzhou Price: 12 yuan per person Introduction: Very good A famous time-honored brand. The cake dumplings are “No. 1 in Suzhou” and are very popular. Recommended: mint cake, pan-fried pancake, lard cake, sponge cake. Caizhizhai (Candy and preserves are very affordable, very suitable for little girls, and taste delicious.) Address: Guanqian Street, Suzhou Price: 21 yuan per person Introduction: A time-honored brand that supplies a variety of Su-style candies, preserves and dry goods . In particular, the zongzi candy has a very traditional taste and is not expensive. You can take some back home. Recommended: Zongzi candy, dried tofu, Fritillaria candy, bean curd candy, mint candy. Babao Porridge Shop (Look here to find it...) Address: South side of Xuanmiao Temple, Guanqian Street, Suzhou Price: 7 yuan per capita Introduction: Babao Porridge is a very typical Suzhou snack. The porridge shop has an inconspicuous appearance, but the porridge is good and very traditional. A taste. Recommended: Eight-treasure porridge, chicken head rice. Fenghuang Street Yipinxiang (I bought pickle buns for 1.5 yuan. Other buns seem to be the same price. The pickle buns are delicious.) Address: Many chain stores in Suzhou (Fenghuang Street, Ganjiang Road...) Price: 8 yuan per person Introduction: A very famous steamed bun and deli chain store. Its fried chicken was famous in Sioux City more than ten years ago, and the food inside is still as delicious as ever. Recommended: Sanding buns, pickle buns, green vegetable buns, tiger skin chicken feet, and duck feet. Huaxi King (I passed by but didn’t go in, there seemed to be a lot of people when I got to the dining area) Address: Fenghuang Street, Suzhou Price: 11 yuan per person Introduction: A small shop specializing in Guizhou rice noodles. The soup has thick ingredients, pure taste and is very authentic. Business is so good that there are long lines for meals. Recommended: Beef powder, beef offal powder, family portrait, Zheer root. Zhu Hongxing Noodle House (has been demolished) Address: No. 23, Fenghuang Street, Suzhou Price: 9 yuan per person Introduction: A century-old restaurant with good soup and good toppings. The noodles are very good, but the price is cheap. Recommended: Braised pork noodles, large steak noodles. Xishengyuan (Xiaolong) and red soup spicy wontons are both delicious. Xiaolong is the authentic Wuxi flavor, sweet. Wontons are open-flavored with fresh meat, which is very delicious. But the so-called spicy red soup is white soup. + Chili pepper, a little disappointed. I thought it was cooked in red soup, sweat...) Address: No. 43, Fenghuang Street, Suzhou (between Shiquan Street and Shizi Street) Price: 7 yuan per capita Introduction: He Wuxi Xishengyuan The snack bar in Tongzong only sells Xiaolong and wontons. Xiao Long is the authentic Sunan flavor. The wontons are also very delicious, and the spicy wontons in red soup taste the best. If you go to eat, it's best to avoid the dining rush hours, otherwise you won't be able to get a seat. Recommended: Xiaolong, red soup spicy wontons, white soup wontons. Note: (This is also the second purpose of writing this travelogue).
1. Address of Zhu Hongxing Noodle House: No. 23, Fenghuang Street, Suzhou. It is no longer available. Please be careful and don’t follow my example. You have gone down the wrong path! In fact, there is Zhu Hongxing Noodle House next to Guanqian Street, but it is under renovation. 2. Suzhou’s public transportation and air-conditioned buses cost 3 yuan. Although you can get a 10% discount with a transportation card, it is still more expensive than in Shanghai. Why? I don’t understand... 3. In fact, the rickshaws in Suzhou are very convenient. Just like the rickshaws in Shanghai, they will stop when you see a wave. Negotiate the price and leave if it suits you. My travel expenses: 10 yuan from Humble Administrator's Garden to Guanqian Street. Phoenix Street - Guanqian Street 5 yuan 4. Personal opinion: Fenghuang Street is actually a very ordinary road. There are no big shops and it is not very lively. There are all kinds of small restaurants and there is nothing worth recommending. If it were not for seeing Guanqian Street The Zhu Hongxing Noodle House next to Qian Street was under renovation, and I had the idea of ??going to Suzhou without eating noodles (but in the end I still didn’t eat noodles...), so I didn’t think I would go. But I discovered Xisheng Yuan's steamed dumplings and wontons make up for the regret of not eating the above! There are gains and losses. 5. There is also Daoxiang Village on Guanqian Street. They sell fresh meat mooncakes at the door for 2 yuan. They are delicious and juicy. Yes. And their fresh meat mooncakes are long. But I have a question, doesn’t Daoxiang Village in Shanghai sell duck liver? But I didn’t even see the shadow of duck in Daoxiang Village in Suzhou. I was confused... You can’t go to Suzhou without visiting Guanqian Street, just like you can’t go to Tianjin without visiting Binjiang Road. This is a centralized place for Suzhou people to go shopping. Various department stores, specialty stores, and traditional snacks are all gathered here. Looking at this archway, it feels like the past and present lives are intertwined, and I have returned to the Qing Dynasty when horseshoes and silver bells were heard all the time.
Located at the entrance of Guanqian Street, this is Suzhou people’s favorite fried buns - Dumb Pan-fried Buns. The plaque in front of the door is very simple. There are people sitting inside and outside the store, which is very popular. The golden crispy skin is topped with emerald green scallion leaves. You must bite slowly, otherwise the soup inside will spray all over you. Take a closer look at these tempting pan-fried buns. In fact, I like to eat the outer skin the most. It's fried crispy and fragrant, but I don't eat much and it's a bit greasy. Although it is more popular locally, when I arrived in Shanghai and ate another famous Shengjian in Shanghai, I no longer missed Duba Shengjian.
Lu Gaojian, this is a time-honored shop in Suzhou. I went there because of its reputation and found that it turned out to be a butcher shop. It was similar to Yueshengzhai in Tianjin. I thought it sold snacks. Such big meat, look. I have no appetite. However, it is very popular locally and people queue up to buy it.
This is another time-honored store in Suzhou, Caizhizhai Candy Shop. Specializing in snacks such as candies, Suzhou-style dried tofu can also be purchased here. The food in Suzhou is relatively sweet. Caizhizhai’s pine nut rice dumpling candies and braised dried tofu are more popular. But only compared to other flavors of candies, in fact, none of them are delicious. However, the teahouse above Caizhizhai is not bad. You can listen to Pingtan. Please listen to the next chapter for details.
Huang Tianyuan is a shop specializing in cake dumplings. They are all time-honored traditional snacks. There are also other items in it. Sweets and local specialties. Many people come here when traveling or bring some special candies back from Caizhizhai, but in my opinion, they are not as delicious as chocolate. The store was always crowded with people, queuing up to buy cakes. Everyone bought a lot of cakes and took them back. I don’t think the shelf life of this kind of stuff is more than a week. Don’t you get tired of eating it every day? I was surprised to buy so many. Because the cakes are relatively heavy, if I look at them up close and look at them, I feel sick... How can I eat them when they are so red? I don’t want to eat it even if it’s for free, I just want to watch it. In the early morning, Suzhou arrived. Based on my study of the map yesterday, I took a taxi directly to Guanqian Street. It was too early, the streets were still deserted, and several hotels were full. I hired a tricycle driver to take me to a newly opened guest house nearby, which was very good. After taking a shower, I washed all the dirty clothes in the store’s washing machine and walked out looking brand new.
There is a "Zhu Hongxing" branch at the door, which is very ordinary. Regarding Suzhou, I only know about the Humble Administrator's Garden, Xuanmiao Temple, Lu Gaojian, Deyue Tower, and Zhu Hongxing. Lu Wenfu repeatedly mentioned Zhu Hongxing in "Gourmet", which became famous in the 1980s. The gourmet Zhu Zhizhi, who was described by Mr. Lu as a negative, the first thing he did when he got up every morning was to rush to Zhu Hongxing to eat "Tou Noodles". In that era, gourmets were ridiculed. Everyone was busy with the "four modernizations", and you were thinking about eating all day long. But in the 1990s, I heard that Mr. Lu also opened a restaurant himself.
It takes three minutes to walk from the guest house to the Humble Administrator's Garden, and two minutes to Guanqian Street. First, we arrived at Guanqian Street, and our eyes were immediately opened. It was a spacious pedestrian street with tall and neat shops. Facing it was the time-honored "Lu Gao Jian" that specializes in selling meat. Walking inside, we saw Suzhou Caizhizhai, Daoxiangcun, and Huang Tianyuan Cake Ball Shop. , Deyuelou, Songhelou, Wangsi Restaurant, Wufangzhai, Zhuhongxing, Luyang Wonton and other time-honored brands.
Zhu Hongxing is located at the crossroads, opposite Wufangzhai. Wufangzhai is famous for its rice dumplings, and Zhu Hongxing is famous for its noodles. But after going in and looking around, I found that the main products of both restaurants are noodles and steamed buns. Zhu Hongxing's crab noodle, braised pork noodles, and eel paste noodles are signature dishes, while Wufangzhai is known as the "Series of Fengzhen Noodles," including meat noodles, fried fish noodles, etc.
And outside the store door, there is a special sign in big letters that says "Crab Meal Xiaolong is on the market!"
Of all the Xiaolongbaos I have ever eaten, the most delicious one is not Nanxiang, Zhiweiguan, or Wangxingji. It’s not from Zhu Hongxing, but from “Green Yang Wonton”. This is something I didn't expect myself.
I was walking on the food street of Guanqian Street, and what attracted me the most was Zhu Hongxing. I couldn’t help it, it has been lingering in my memory for more than ten years. Although I reminded myself to calm down and take a turn first, I quickly got into Zhu Hongxing. The store is not big and there are not many people. I ordered a bowl of crab noodles and a bowl of steamed buns. The woman cooking the noodles asked me: "Do you want green noodles?" I didn't understand. The waiter next to me explained: "Free greens means no green onions, garlic, coriander and the like."
Then "free greens" Well, the crab flavor is enough.
After a while, the meeting came, a big bowl with ordinary noodles in it, with a ball of red and white crab meat poured on it. There are two ways to eat this bowl of crab noodles. One is to stir the noodles and crab noodles together, similar to eating noodles with soybean paste; the other is to carefully pick up the noodles and put them into your mouth together with the crab noodles. The difference is that in the former, crab powder is soaked in noodle soup, which makes it enjoyable to eat, but the taste is diluted. I strictly followed the second method, and my movements were regular. I seemed to see the noodle cook nodding in approval.
One bite of noodles, delicious! It's really fresh and special. Generally speaking, the freshness of noodles is all in the soup. This one is the freshness of crab noodles, which covers everything. Using a crab as a lining for a bowl of noodles can be regarded as a high-end dish. It reminds me of the can of abalone noodles Liang Shiqiu exchanged for two soda flakes.
Oil-boiled steamed steamed buns are steamed steamed buns cooked in oil in a pot over low heat. They look inconspicuous. He picked one up with chopsticks and put it in his mouth. The waitress next to him said: "Be careful!" It was already too late. First, the teeth cut into a layer of sweet crispiness, and then the lips came into contact with a smooth and tender mass. All tastes The system was sending out the "on time" signal, and a delicious torrent suddenly rushed over the tongue. Then, the upper jaw seemed to be burned by the fire - causing the soup in the soup bag to burn off a layer of skin.
After leaving Zhuhongxing, I bought an ice cream cone at KFC to soothe the fire in my throat. Suzhou is not a big city, but KFC and McDonald's seem to be everywhere. In Hangzhou, Italian pizzerias are springing up like mushrooms after a spring rain, and men and women line up in front of Pizza Hut.
I bought a pack of fried ginkgo in Daoxiang Village, got on a tricycle, and ate while heading to the Humble Administrator's Garden. It was May, and the Humble Administrator's Garden was crowded with tourists. The garden was not big, and it was supposed to be quiet and beautiful, but nothing could be seen. At noon, we went to the Lion Forest not far away. This time there were not many people, but it felt like an ordinary garden.
I returned to Guanqian Street in the afternoon and first went to Huang Tianyuan Cake Shop to eat cakes. There were about six or seven kinds, colorful and very beautiful. I bought one to try, and almost none of them were delicious, far worse than Shanghai Shen Dacheng. I had no choice but to go to Wufangzhai again to eat Fengzhen noodles.
Fengzhen is the Fengqiao where "Fengqiao Night Mooring" takes place, and it is also the location of Hanshan Temple. I didn’t go to Hanshan Temple, so I don’t know whether Wufangzhai’s Fengzhen noodles are authentic. But the bowl of braised pork and fried fish noodles I ordered was not as good as Zhu Hongxing's or Zhiwei Guan's. There was just a large piece of cold braised pork and a piece of fried grass carp on top. There is a clear line between noodles and toppings. The fish refuses to moisturize the noodles, and the hotness of the noodles fails to melt the coldness of the fish.
The time-honored shops on Guanqian Street can be divided into two categories: one is Zhu Hongxing, Wufangzhai, Luyang Wonton, Yuyuan Snacks, which mainly focus on pasta, and their signature dishes are Xiaolongbao and noodles, the price is quite cheap. For example, the most expensive crab noodles are only 18 yuan, and the xiaolongbao is less than 5 yuan, which can be said to be of high quality and low price; the other category is famous restaurants such as Deyuelou, Songhelou, and Wangsi Restaurant, which sell various Su Bang famous restaurants. Dishes such as squirrel mandarin fish, beggar's chicken, cherry meat, etc. are almost expensive.
I only had one dish of cherry meat at Deyuelou, and there was also Suzhou boat restaurant. The price was acceptable, but the craftsmanship could only be described as numb. But the "famous dish" on the menu page with a four-digit value is something I can't eat, and I don't think people from Suzhou can eat it either. I don't know who prepared it for me. I went in and came out of Songhelou. A dish of squirrel mandarin fish costs more than 100 yuan, and the price is also very imaginative. I wasn't planning to go into Wangsi Restaurant at first, but when I saw the special price of Beggar's Chicken for 68 yuan, I wanted to compare it with Hangzhou Louwailou. I felt it was slightly better.
The facade of Caizhizhai in Suzhou is more beautiful than that in Hangzhou, but the quality of the goods inside may be inferior. The Hangzhou store has a lot of fresh products produced on the same day, such as the mung bean cakes and various pastries I mentioned. The Suzhou store mainly sells various beautifully packaged finished products, such as Suzhou-style date paste sesame cakes and pine nut candies. However, Suzhou has Jinjin brand dried tofu, which is fresh and sweet, and shrimp and tuna, which has a special taste and is a great dish to go with wine or porridge. However, what impressed me the most was the fermented rice cake.
Every year from Qingming Festival to mid-May, an electric baking pan will be placed in front of pastry shops in Suzhou, specializing in selling seasonal snacks such as fermented rice cakes. The appearance of this cake is similar to that of moon cakes. It comes in two varieties: red bean paste and rose. The dough is made with sake fermented rice. Due to the climate, it can only be sold during this season. When this kind of cake is freshly baked, the whole street is filled with the aroma of fermented rice. The skin is soft and glutinous, and the filling is sweet and glutinous, making it intoxicating. Almost every food store on Guanqian Street sells fermented rice cakes at the door. From the Food Building in Guanxi to Lu Gaojian in Guandong, they cost 8 cents each. After tasting all the way, Cai Zhi Zhai came out on top.
Especially the ones filled with roses, with white skin and red flesh, which seem to seep into the skin layer by layer, giving it a youthful flavor of red apricots coming out of the wall. However, it is better to eat it while it is hot and not to accumulate it. Once it cools down, its lively rhythm will be lost, just like the cold feeling of a resentful woman. Before I went to Zhouzhuang, I bought ten fermented rice cakes and ten fresh meat mooncakes to enjoy on the road. It turned out that my teeth were very smart and I only wanted to rub them with the latter.
On the last day, I came back tired from Canglang Pavilion and wandered in the setting sun on Guanqian Street. I saw the smooth stone road, the tall and simple houses, the Gusu woman eating snacks, and the calm old man smoking. , together present a light and calm feeling in the backlight, and also resemble the soothing rhythm of Wu Su's soft words.
I sat down at the Luyang Wonton Shop and ordered a bowl of crab meat wontons in chicken soup. A basket of freshly packed crab meat dumplings cost Ocean 9 yuan a pound. The wontons came first, and they looked very good, with thick skin, big fillings, clear soup, and a few thin strands of dried tofu. The soup is as clear as water, without a trace of flour turbidity, but without losing its freshness. The filling is soft and has a sauce flavor, which is a combination of southern style and northern style. Then there are the xiaolongbao, four in a cage. They are bigger than Nanxiang and smaller than Goubuli. They are upright, with delicate skin and plump figure, making people want to get close to them. When you come up to it and give it a wolf kiss, the skin seems to be growing and slightly raised; in addition to the freshness of crab, the filling also has the thickness of soy sauce and the sweetness of sugar.
After eating, I asked a woman who was making soup dumplings for advice, and she replied with a smile: "This is called a fermented soup dumpling. The dough is only slightly risen, and crab oil and marinade are added to the filling to make the skin." Frozen. ”
Slightly fermented dough is somewhere between yeasted dough and hard dough. It is unobtrusive, informal, and natural, yet seems to imply ingenuity. This feeling is exactly our impression of Guanqian Street in Suzhou.
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