? Editor/Produced by Ziqi/Free Temperament I like late night wine, but I love early morning porridge even more.

There is always a smell that is enough to wake you up from your sleep, either familiar or strange.

It was a porridge and a meal in the early morning, but it always reminded me of the bricks and tiles of my hometown. For a moment, it seemed that the air and the sunshine were full of the flavor of my hometown... Gudu Night Food 2019 Special Project·Early City Old Food, with

You appreciate the fireworks of the sunrise... When you mention the "magic city" Shanghai, what do you think of?

Two words come to mind: exquisite and independent.

They are used not only to describe the city of Shanghai, but also to describe the people living in Shanghai.

As a modern metropolis, Shanghai's development has far exceeded many people's expectations. While its economy is developing rapidly, it is also attracting countless young people.

But in Shanghai, no matter whether you work hard or study, you will only get three meals a day, a house and a bed.

To understand a city, start with its breakfast. What is there for breakfast in Shanghai?

Shanghainese’s Specialties If you search online about breakfast in Shanghai, the most mentioned one is Shanghai Xiao Long Bao.

The words of one of the netizens are still fresh in my mind: "Speaking of the breakfast in Ala Shanghai, the rice dumplings are still very delicious. Lift them gently, move them slowly, open the window first, and then drink the soup. The exquisiteness is the taste buds.

"Exquisite enjoyment." I don't know why, but when I saw the above paragraph, I had a picture in my mind: a Shanghai woman wearing a cheongsam, talking about Xiao Long Bao in Wu Nong's soft Shanghai dialect.

How to eat and taste.

Maybe people who don’t know better will think that this way of eating is more complicated: isn’t it just eating a steamed bun?

Lift it gently and move it slowly, there are so many things to do.

But for Shanghainese, this is actually a habit. It is a deep-seated emphasis, a pursuit of details, and respect for xiaolongbao.

Shanghai's Xiao Long Bao is rich in fillings, mostly fresh meat, making it a favorite among "carnivores".

However, Xiao Long Bao is a nationally famous breakfast. How to tell what is an authentic Shanghai Xiao Long Bao?

"When eating Xiao Long Bao, you can take a look at the soup. Shanghai Xiao Long Bao has white soup. Those with red soup are soup dumplings from other places. Those with slightly soy sauce are mostly because the meat fillings have been stored for too long.

It’s so fresh,” a friend from Shanghai told me.

Shanghai Xiaolong is indeed famous, but it does not completely represent Shanghai's breakfast. Shanghai's traditional breakfast has to be the "Four King Kongs".

Shanghai’s “Four King Kongs” For authentic Shanghainese, their day starts with snacks.

And the snack they had in the morning was Shanghai’s traditional breakfast: the Four King Kongs.

The Four King Kongs have an unshakable position in Shanghai’s breakfast scene. With the rapid development of Shanghai, a large influx of foreign delicacies has occurred, but not only have they not been eliminated, but they have become more and more timeless.

△Shanghai’s Four King Kongs + Shanghai Xiao Long Bao, they look so tempting. Rice, flatbread, fried dough sticks, and soy milk are the Four King Kongs of Shanghai. These foods are neither gorgeous nor exquisite, but they are Shanghai.

Everyone's favorite breakfast.

Soy milk, in particular, is the main force in Shanghai’s breakfast scene, but Shanghainese prefer salty soy milk to sweet soy milk.

Add dried shrimps, seaweed and pickled mustard into the original soy milk, and then add a few drops of spicy oil. It looks pleasing to the eye and tastes extremely refreshing. It is a double enjoyment of sight and taste.

△Salty soy milk, sweet soy milk, original soy milk. As the soul mate of soy milk, fried dough sticks can be said to be everywhere.

Soaked in sweet soy milk or original soy milk, the fried dough sticks retain their own flavor; drank with salty soy milk, the fried dough sticks have the effect of neutralizing the salty taste of mustard.

Of course, fried dough sticks with different flavors of soy milk have different effects, and different ways of eating them make it even more addictive.

Soaked in soy milk, the fried dough sticks have the fragrance of beans, and are crispy but also a little soft; a mouthful of soy milk and a mouthful of fried dough sticks, they merge in the mouth, and it feels amazing.

Eating a simple breakfast has a different feeling and is also a kind of happiness. What can bring people a sense of happiness are the other "two kings", rice balls and flatbreads.