I don't know when Dali was labeled as "romantic". When many people come to Dali for the first time, it is nothing more than walking around the ancient city, turning around small shops, eating milk fans and taking pictures by the Erhai Lake. It is difficult to taste the unique charm of Dali unless you come to Dali very much.

This time, I made an appointment with my good friend Cui Cui, specifically avoiding the lively National Day and Mid-Autumn Festival, avoiding the weekend, and just wanted to play quietly and relaxed for two days. And a long time ago, I was visited by Amway: Mocui Tea Room on Cangshan Mountain, which is said to be the most beautiful tea room in Dali. For me who love tea, I have long wanted to see it.

Kunming-Dali

Transportation: train K9682? 11: 55-17: 14

Dali Railway Station-Ancient City? 5 yuan/person (there are many private cars to pick people up at the gate of the station. Generally, 5 yuan is the only one who carpools, which is very cheap. The master can send them directly to the inn)

Accommodation: Yunxie Washe Travel Hotel

When we arrived at the inn in the evening, there was a light rain in the ancient city. The appearance of Yunxie Washe was unremarkable, and it was only when I walked in that I found a hole in the sky. There is a waterscape in the atrium, and the waterfront is the waterside pavilion with the characteristics of Bai folk houses. Imagine the white clouds reflected in the water when the weather is clear, echoing the waterside pavilion from a distance, and it really deserves the word "Yunxiao". We chose Yunxiao Pavilion because it is quiet outside the ancient city, but both the ancient city and the Erhai Lake are actually very noisy. Yunxiewashe feels that it has just opened, and we like the brand-new and clean inn.

we live in the east wing of the courtyard. I like the hydrophilic room, and the vegetation is just right. The room is very large, and the bathroom, toilet and washstand are separated, which is very convenient. The bed in the standard room is tatami with two mattresses on it. We all like this design very much, because it feels like sleeping in a bed, and we can talk in private after turning off the lights at night, haha. What makes me feel very satisfied with the room is sanitary ware, which is very kind with a brand used in my home. In addition, towels are individually packaged, which makes them soft and clean.

The inn also has a clean and comfortable coffee shop, and the front desk service is thoughtful and warm. After washing in the evening, I finished some work here with my laptop and went to bed early.

Transportation: bikego+Hiking

Eating: Bai's special home cooking+Silent Zhao 'an vegetarian meal (dinner is at your own expense)

Today's itinerary is to climb Cangshan Mountain. Cangshan Mountain is very big, surrounded by evergreen clouds all the year round. There is snow on the top of the mountain in winter. It is said that there are 19 peaks and 18 streams, but the mountain road is secluded and rugged. Both Cui Cui and I like outdoor activities very much. It would be great to come to Dali and exercise our hands and feet. I saw bikego's one-day tour of Cangshan on a treasure, including Mocui Tea Room, which I want to go to most, and placed an order directly.

last night, customer service and bikego leader Xiao Meng contacted us separately, and made an appointment to meet us at the inn at 9: this morning. We slept until we were satisfied and had breakfast in the cafe of the inn. The inn provides a nutritious breakfast every day, and western and Chinese styles change every other day. My favorite is fried eggs with water, which is delicious and nutritious.

at 9 o'clock sharp, I got a call from the tour leader Xiao Meng, and the bus has arrived at the entrance of the inn. Xiaomeng is a local, he looks very energetic, and he is kind and talkative. We will get to know each other soon. Next, our car was a seven-seater business car. Later, after a whole day's trip, I realized that several places I went to today were not easy to reach, and it was only convenient to drive by car. In addition, we were accompanied by a couple in their fifties. My uncle and aunt were from Inner Mongolia, and my son worked in Beijing. It was his son who booked the Cangshan trip for them online. Our five-person group had a good time all the way, chatting about the local customs and listening to the tour leader introduce us to Dali's history and humanities. It really felt like meeting people who like humanities travel as much as themselves. You know, this one-day tour is only 288 yuan, which is too valuable.

First stop: Wuwei Temple

We parked in the parking lot at the foot of Lingjiu Mountain and walked to Wuwei Temple for about 2 minutes.

Walking through the memorial arch of Lingjiu Peak, I feel that I have crossed the Nanzhao Kingdom in the Tang and Song Dynasties. The path is deep, the grass is falling, and the drizzle is silent. The air in the mountains is particularly fresh, and every deep breath seems to wash away the dust deep inside, making people forget the troubles of the world.

Wuwei Temple is one of the few temples that are completely commercialized. Not even a scenic spot. It still has a lot of monks in Qing dynasty, and the incense is very strong. When we came, we happened to meet something going on in the temple, and local residents came to worship from time to time. This is the most daily day in a Buddhist temple, with few tourists and no sales and services for tourists in the temple. We went in to pay homage like ordinary pilgrims. When you pass through the bamboo forest next to you, you can vaguely see the monks who are doing things. There is a clear spring in the back hill of the temple, named Rescue Epidemic Spring. The water quality is clear and sweet, which is much better than a bottle of mineral water of tens of yuan.

Second stop: Zhoucheng

As a native of Yunnan, when I was a child, I thought tie-dyeing was very rustic, because I had seen it too much and I was used to it. Nowadays, industrial textiles are flooding, but I miss the warmth of homespun when I was a child. I use natural fabrics dyed with grass for tea seats, table runners and coasters at home. When I came to Zhoucheng, I first understood the production process of tie-dyeing of Dali Bai people.

The tour leader took us to a small courtyard of Bai people's residence, which was already very busy and there were many foreign tourists. A Bai elder sister who was skilled in needlework was busy with her work and taught us needlework. Cui Cui, my uncle and aunt and I went into battle together, and everyone carefully finished a tie-dyed work. After drying, it was directly used as a handkerchief.

Lunch is in the Zhoucheng Hotel next door, and we don't need to order. The boss gave us a match according to our number. The Bai-style food is very local, but it's really delicious, with a good combination of meat and vegetables. This is the richest and most delicious "group meal" I have ever eaten.

Third stop: Mocui Tea Room

Mocui Tea Room is located in Taoxi Valley. We parked our car halfway up the mountain, and we can only walk from the parking lot to the teahouse. The walking time is about 1 minutes.

Although I have imagined it countless times, the first time I saw Mocui Tea Room, it made my eyes shine. It was actually an old castle built of stones, like a European pastoral farm, with a tall Camptotheca acuminata beside it and a wide viewing terrace under the shade. Sitting on the terrace, you can see the ancient city and Erhai Lake in a glance, and the scenery is beautiful.

When you come to Mocui Tea Room, you must take photos. Of course, the observation deck with excellent location is the first choice for taking panoramic photos. Secondly, we must taste a good local tea.

The weather in the mountains is changeable. Just arrived at the teahouse, it was drizzling and rustling. Listening to the rain and drinking tea is very pleasant. The organic Dianhong and Diangreen produced by the tea garden itself are washed with the spring water on the mountain, which has a clean taste and a long aftertaste.

after the rain subsided, we bypassed the teahouse and went hiking in Taoxi Valley. It is no exaggeration to describe the idyllic scenery along the way with birds and flowers. Walking through the woods and flower beds, stepping on the mossy stone path, listening to the gurgling water, my eyes are full of wild flowers and weeds. We took photos all the way, talked about the historical legend of Dali and admired it all the way. Such a natural and beautiful place, I want to recommend it to my friends to experience, but I don't want to tell too many people. I hope it can keep its natural appearance forever and will not be artificially changed and destroyed.

Fourth stop: Silent Zhao 'an

The road to Silent Zhao 'an is steep. If it weren't for an "old driver" like Xiao Meng, the team leader, it would be absolutely difficult to drive the car to the small parking lot at the gate of the temple smoothly. You can walk up without a car, but it takes a lot of time and effort.

Different from the nature of Wuwei Temple, Silent Photo Temple is obviously taken care of by someone. Inside and outside, it is spotless. Orchids are neatly placed on both sides of the path, and large hydrangeas and other plants are planted in the garden. The word "Silent Temple" is said to have been inscribed by Tang Jiyao, governor of Yunnan during the Republic of China. When I walked into the garden, I was shocked by the cuteness and fleshiness everywhere. It's the first time I've seen so much fleshy growth. This place is simply a sacred place that meat fans must come to worship. Maybe it's outstanding people, maybe it's the Buddha's light shining, maybe it's the care of a willing heart. In short, the plants and flowers in the nunnery feel much more lush than those in other places.

there is a tea hall and vegetarian food in Silent Photo Temple. Tea is free and vegetarian meals are limited. Fortunately, we made a reservation in advance, and there are not many tourists today. Dinner will be served on time at about five o'clock in the afternoon, and everyone will be 2 yuan. Just pay the money when you have a meal. Seven or eight kinds of vegetables, as well as soup and pickles, are more or less self-help, but waste is eliminated. I haven't eaten such delicious food for a long time. Every vegetable has its original flavor.

Transportation: Walking

Eating: Dali Snacks+Special Japanese Food

Today, we are going to visit the ancient city, go to the bedsheet factory in the morning, and visit Chaiduomi Market and Haishe Park in the afternoon. I have booked a Japanese-style izakaya-Erliang cuisine in the evening. This restaurant was also seen online, and commented that the ingredients in their home are very fresh and the chef is from Hong Kong. Cui Cui has no resistance to delicious food at all, and we are going to have a taste at night.

Maybe it's because the off-season is not the weekend. When we arrived at the bedsheet factory at 1: a.m., the park was empty. Fortunately, several shops were open. Cui Cui and I visited two bookstores: Zazi Wenchuang Store and Dolphin Ade Bookstore. Both bookstores have many cultural and creative products, such as postcards, independent magazines, pictures, peripheral products, etc., which are worth buying as souvenirs and can be stamped.

the chaiduomi market was only held on Saturday, and it was held on Yeyu Road. Unfortunately, we missed it. Haishe Park is in Xizhou, which is more than 2 kilometers away from the ancient city. It is not convenient to go in rainy days, so we gave up both places. At noon, we went to the most authentic restaurant near the north gate and ate a bowl of Dali grilled meat bait. In the afternoon, Cui Cui took me to Uncle Geng's house for tea.

uncle Geng's shop is called "there is tea in the park", which is located in a quiet alley next to red longjing, near Starbucks. Most people who play Zitao know Uncle Geng. He has collected many works of Jianshui Zitao craftsmen, and when he comes to his shop, he can see his taste. Several friends I know who are teahouses in Chengdu bought purple pottery from Uncle Geng. While drinking Pu 'er tea, we talked about tea and tea ware, and talked about the leisurely life in Dali. Speaking of our experience of playing yesterday, Uncle Geng said that these places are frequented by newcomers to Dali, but few tourists know about them.

The last place on the trip to Dali was the dinner cooked by Erliang. The shop is open from 5 pm to 12 pm. So don't waste your time coming over for lunch, it must not be open.

We just came around 8 pm, and there were not many people in the store. We chose the position of the bar to sit down, just to see the chef Erliang concentrate on cooking. When eating in a special restaurant, we must ask the chef to recommend the special dishes or the best ingredients of the day. Erliang recommended sashimi (two kinds of fish), sushi platter (eight sushi) and eel rice, and we added a sake and drank it slowly in a warm hip flask. Wooden tables and chairs+warm lighting+blue curtain, although the shop is small and simple, it has the feeling of Midnight Food Store. It's like coming to an unknown mysterious kitchen. A curtain above the bar is Cangshan, which is shown by the proprietress herself, with a blue background and white lines, and simple lines outline the 19 peaks of Cangshan.

The ingredients of Erliang cuisine are really fresh. The salmon comes from Norway, and the arctic shell is still alive, and it tastes excellent. You can hardly find such great food in mainland cities. If you want to come, you must make an appointment in advance. Erliang will remind you of the latest ingredients on WeChat every day. Basically, you can eat them at night.

After dinner, we will pick up our luggage from the inn and use taxi software to call a taxi. We will go from the south gate of the ancient city to the railway station, probably around 35 yuan. Go back to Kunming by sleeper. Say goodbye to a special trip to Dali.

Tips:

1. If you want to travel easily and worry-free, I suggest you find some reliable short-term travel products when you arrive in the local area, which can not only arrange flexibly according to your own itinerary, but also enjoy high-quality travel services. For example, the bikego card we used this time provides a variety of short-term itinerary options, which can be combined at will and seamlessly connected with our own arrangements, which is very convenient.

2. The difficulty coefficient of hiking Cangshan route is very low, and the hiking distance is properly arranged, which is just the most beautiful and can only be walked. Wear comfortable and warm clothes when you go. You can wear flat shoes or sports shoes. It is better to have light hiking shoes. The road in the mountain is slippery and covered with moss. Pay attention to anti-slip and anti-fall.

3. The tour leader's car has enough water, so you don't need to buy it yourself, and there are hiking sticks, which can be used if necessary.

4. There is a lot of rain in Yunnan this year, and the weather in Dali is even more cloudy and sunny. You can take a convenient umbrella and raincoat with you to avoid catching cold in the rain. Dali is also an important producing area of Pu 'er tea. It's not bad to enjoy a quiet rainy day with a pot of Pu 'er tea.

5. This hiking trip on Cangshan Mountain made me truly feel why Dali is called "Miaoxiang Buddha Country". Many temples in Cangshan are hundreds of years old, and the Bai people in Dali have their own religious beliefs.

6. Although we didn't come to Dali during the festive season, we can still see the most simple folk customs here. Looking at things in Wuwei Temple, the paper men and horses tied by residents are lifelike; In Zhoucheng, we were lucky enough to meet a local wedding, and the couple were going to worship the Lord God.