I have a soft spot for gourd head, because I ate gourd head in a restaurant in Xiaonanmen 1990. That summer, my friend invited me to eat gourd head at Xiaonanmen. At that time, there were two rows of crude tile houses in Xiaonanmen, and several Hulutou shops were distributed on the east side of the road. The shop is very simple, the storefront is not big, and a shed is set up outside the shop. There is a big pot in front of the shop. There is a console table beside the cauldron. There are five or six bowls with white background and blue flowers. There are all kinds of seasonings in the bowl. This is the operation room of the shop. Although the store is very simple, you can watch the store make delicious food and feel at ease when eating it. We saw a dozen people standing in front of a Hulutou store watching the master's operation. We thought the store should be good, so we leaned over.
Standing in front of the cauldron was an old master in his sixties, short and thin, with a crew cut, a blue and white apron and a mossy cigarette in his mouth. Next to him stood a slightly obese helper in his thirties, who looked like an old man's apprentice. The apprentice put a bowl of steamed bread smashed by customers on the console table and put it in front of the master.
The master stood by the cauldron, picked up the bowl filled with broken steamed buns in his left hand, wiped it with a spoon in his right hand, raised the bowl and drew two circles on the steaming pot like rolling dice, then put the bottom of the bowl against the pot, and with a hard wrist, the bowl drew a circle on the pot, and the diners around him gave a sigh of surprise. At this moment, the broth in the pot is steaming and rolling. He scooped a spoonful of soup with a spoon, poured it into the bun, patted it with the back of the spoon, poured another spoonful and patted it again. At this time, his movements suddenly stopped and he looked up at the onlookers. Just when everyone was wondering, suddenly, he put the bun in the bowl with a spoon and raised his hand with the bowl. At this time, the soup in the bowl drew an arc, and a drop of water flew up and fell into the boiling soup in the pot, just like pearls of all sizes fell into a plate of jade. His hand was held high and exaggerated, but the soup he held didn't fall into the pot at all, nor did it spill. Just as everyone was still amazed at his actions, he put the bottom of the bowl on the edge of the pot, pushed it hard to the left with his hand holding the bowl, and suddenly stabbed it, and the bowl rotated 180 degrees on the edge of the pot. After turning the corner, the bowl is still tightly grasped in the hand. At this time, his eyes were fixed on the bowl. He quickly scooped up another spoonful of soup and scraped the bowl straight with the spoon. There is another hot soup and another 180 degree bowl in the air. Before people shut up in surprise, he picked up the bowl, scooped up two spoonfuls of soup, turned slightly, faced the console table with spices, and scooped the spices into the bowl as quickly as a chicken pecked with a spoon. Salt, monosodium glutamate, coriander, all the ingredients seem to have been measured, put them into the bowl evenly, then pour half a spoonful of soup into the bowl and say, "End the steamed stuffed bun!" " Bowls were distributed. The apprentice next to him immediately took the bowl and left.
The onlookers were stunned by his performance, and it was not until the apprentice took the bowl away that everyone seemed to wake up. The host then leisurely smoked a few more cigarettes and picked up the bowl.
We watched the master's performance and were busy asking about the origin of this man. Someone next to him said that he was the master of the shopkeeper, known as Zhang San, the gourd head, and was an authentic descendant of the gourd head. Today, he came to support his disciples. Watching the master's performance and eating his carefully operated gourd head, I thought to myself: I'm glad you came.
Later, we went several times, but we never saw the master again. Without the master's wonderful performance, the taste of gourd head would not be so good.
Now, the rows of tile houses in Xiaonanmen have been demolished. I wonder if Master Zhang San is still alive. I was always impressed by his wonderful performance of dancing in front of the cauldron and explaining the operation process of the gourd head. Later, I went all over the streets of Xi 'an with gratitude to look for that kind of performance, but I never saw it again.
□ Author Ren Zhan
Xi Evening News 201August 08 12 Editor: Xi Geography
The authentic one should be Nanyuan Menchun. But now I have not inherited the tradition. Tradition should be four intestines, two stomachs, a piece of fat and thin white meat and vermicelli. This is the authentic practice from before liberation to the spring of the 1990s. Not anymore. Because I am a stranger in the south yard. The soup has been ok since the spring, and it tastes good.
In the past spring, paomo tasted good, the soup was good, and the taste was really good, except for a small amount of intestines! However, since Xi 'an Catering Company introduced mutton bread in soup to no avail, it came up with the idea of gourd bread in soup, and spring has changed. The first is that the price has changed dramatically. In spring, there used to be a dish called Chrysanthemum Fat Intestines, which paid attention to cooking and was not easy to cook. It tastes really delicious!
But now this dish has been lost, and no one can cook it in spring. Paomo tastes wrong, too. Steamed bread is hard, too, and soup is not good. They are not as mature as before. Western drinks, you ruined the authentic Chinese hamburger in Fan Shi, the mutton bread in the soup of Lao Sun, Baiyun Zhang jiaozi and Defachang jiaozi.
As a native of Xi, I did some research and went to all the Hulutou shops I could go to. It's hard to answer which one is true. Hulutou Paomo originated in the prosperous Tang Dynasty and was cleverly directed by Sun Simiao, the "King of Medicine". It has been passed down for thousands of years. At present, the longest recorded spring is about 100 years old. Because of the big pot of rice, the product is far from being so famous.
Gourd head is mainly composed of bone soup, large intestine, cake and seasoning water.
Gourd head pays attention to the freshness of soup, so enough bones can be guaranteed. In many shops, bones are changed every two or three days, and the quality is difficult to guarantee. Moreover, it is best to add soup when the soup is reduced, but it is rare to cook soup in two pots. Responsible businesses add boiling water, and some directly add cold water with faucets.
As the main component, the large intestine is really difficult to handle. I found that all the businesses that cook large intestine are good, and many of them are specialized in delivery, and sometimes the quality is difficult to guarantee. The cake is delicious. Seasoned water is the secret of every family. It is said that dozens of kinds of star anise are used, but sometimes we can't take it too seriously.
A bowl of delicious gourd head should be made of soup, large intestine, cake, seasoning water and oil, including chef's skills. Only when everything is satisfied can we make a satisfactory gourd head. If you find any authentic gourd head, please trust me. Focus on Shaanxi snacks gourd head, favorite pig's trotters, thank you for your attention, welcome to communicate.
I am a native of Qu Wei. Since I went to work at 65438-0996 Qiangzi Road, Beiguan, I have almost eaten Xi with my friends, classmates, unit leaders and colleagues. Speaking of eating gourd head paomo, I have been to several famous local old shops in Xi, but since I ate our gourd head paomo (Huangchengxuan) at Quwei West Street Cross in 2009, I don't want to run far anymore! Intestines are really delicious, soup is really bone soup, and steamed bread is more traditional. Especially in recent years, the boss has improved the skills of stewing pig's trotters, adding delicious food! I have a classmate who moved to Shanghai with his family many years ago and came back to visit relatives this year. He likes this one, too. After I took him to taste it, he said it felt better than the gourd head in the south yard! To tell the truth, as long as you do it with your heart, don't be too commercialized and eager for quick success, you can do it well and you will definitely catch the stomach of diners!
Shaanxi Xi's traditional snacks ~ Hulutou paomo
Hulutou has a long history, also known as "fried white sausage". Its basic raw materials are pig large intestine and pig belly. Because the pig's large intestine is thick in oil and looks like a gourd, it is called gourd head. Hulutou has been circulated for thousands of years and has been famous in Chang 'an since ancient times.
Hulutou steamed buns are characterized by white color, tender meat and fresh soup, fat but not greasy, and rich aroma. Eating with kimchi is refreshing and the oil is delicious, which is suitable for all ages.
Xi people have their own tastes when eating gourd heads. In the lush years, they like meat and rich soup, which is spicy and spicy. Female friends like to eat clear soup alone. Clear soup is good for the intestines and refreshing, so as to taste its fragrance. Old people like the beauty of its shape, color, taste and taste. Gourd head not only tastes delicious, but also has the value of eating and chatting, so it can be eaten for a long time and is deeply loved by the public. Share a few Xi gourd head dishes for reference only.
1. Zhu Xiuying Bangbangrou Hulutou
His large intestine is clean and the soup is delicious. Kimchi looks unremarkable. It is crisp and refreshing in the mouth, accompanied by smoked stick meat. Sipping wine is really enjoyable.
2. Spring is coming.
An old-fashioned Hulutou paomo restaurant has a bright environment and rich side dishes, including meat, sausages, pig ears and smoked tofu. The pig's large intestine and belly are soft, rotten, fat and waxy, without any peculiar smell. The soup base is well cooked, and the soup head is milky white and delicious.
Thirty years ago, the most awesome gourd head in the city was the gourd head near the public toilet in the south of Luoma City, followed by Zhujia on Liu Jiahe Road in Baishulin. These families are gone now, and Hulutou pays attention to craftsmanship and roots. As for this "root", what is it? No one can tell. What I understand is that in addition to steaming steamed bread, there is also a bowl of bright oil on the pot, which contains a secret recipe. Now you can only eat the gourd head with roots in Jiandong Street near Leju Factory, "Zhangji Sauced Meat Hulutou in Xiaocha Market", which is also next to a public toilet. There is also a gourd head beside the gate of the subsidiary factory of Xianyang Changqing Foundation, which is sprinkled with braised pork and chives, and it is worth eating. The first one is Zhang Ji's and the second one is Xianyang's. In fact, there is basically no exclusive secret recipe for gourd head now. Everything in the commercial society is transparent and smells bad, but it is impossible to find the old taste of the past! Because there are no more days of hunger and cold.
Xi 'an's gourd head has a long history, so there are delicious gourd heads in all directions. Personally, I prefer the germination of Hutchison Street in Xiaonanmen and the spring of Fenxiang time-honored brand. In the past, in addition to Beiguan, Dongguan Hulutou, Xiguan Hulutou and Nanguan Hulutou all occupied a dominant position in various regions. Including these stores now, business is still good. In addition, the gourd head at the intersection of Bianjia Village and South Seismological Bureau tastes good. In recent years, driven by big meat, Wenchang Men Site ruins, Zhang★★★ (name can't be remembered, I'm sorry), Xiaonanmen and Bangbangrou Hulutou gradually began to be accepted and recognized by everyone. I used to sit in the shop and ask for some cold dishes, bottles of beer and a hot sausage. This is a supreme enjoyment. There are not many really delicious warm-mixed fat sausages now, and every shop has great meat. . .
There are only so many personal comments. Due to personal habits, I can't provide pictures. Please forgive me. I'm just a native of Xi. This is not gourmet coffee or anything. I hope you can forgive the defects in the article. . .
Speaking of Hulutou paomo, it is very popular in Xi, but it is rare outside Shaanxi. There are less than 20 famous gourd heads in Xi 'an, and the most famous in this city is spring. There are several small south gates, and there are also several Wenchang Men Site ruins. There is the first bowl in Shaanxi in the west, Xiguan Hulutou in the north, Brother Hulutou in the east, and Old Dongguan in the east. My taste is fragrant, Li Family Courtyard, Koujia in the south, and Nibo in Chang 'an District and Imperial City. I also ate a lot. Personally, I think the most authentic ones are Laodongguan in Dongguan South Street and Huangchengxuan in Qu Wei North Street.
If you want to taste the authentic gourd head, you should still germinate in the sky. But compared with the 1970s, it tastes different. Eat his soup, no Chili, and have a little taste of the past. The intestines are well handled. Stick meat should be eaten intact. It tastes much better now. Everyone has his own hobbies. But the only thing that can make the old flavor of the 1970s reappear is germination.