From all perspectives, the job of commenting is so simple. We have no risks, but we stand aloof, waiting for others to present their results, or even themselves, for us to judge. We write a lot of negative criticism because it's fun to write and fun to read. Yet the bitter truth we reviewers have to face is that any piece of junk food is better than the reviews we give it. But sometimes a critic really has to take risks, and that's when he discovers and begins to champion a new food. The world is never kind to new talents, new inventions, and new needs. Last night I experienced something new, a transcendent meal whose origins were so extraordinary and unpredictable. Even if I claim that both the dinner and its chef overturned my preconceptions about fine dining, that would be an understatement. It shook me to my core. In the past, I've never hidden my disdain for Chef Gusteau's famous saying: Anyone can cook. But I realize that I never really understood what he meant until now. Not everyone can be a great artist, but great artists can come from anywhere. It is unimaginable that the chefs who cook at Guesteu have such humble backgrounds, and as a critic, I ensure that they are no worse than the best chefs in France. I will be visiting Guesteu again soon, even more hungry.

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