A bowl of rice can not only satisfy hunger, but also be a super test paper for studying the art of diet. It is said that once upon a time, a large family tested a chef who came to apply for a job, not to watch him cook delicacies, big fish and big meat, but to test his kung fu in cooking fried rice with eggs. Therefore, Yuan Mei, a writer and gourmet in Qing Dynasty, said, "The taste of rice is above all tastes. If you know the taste, you don't need to use vegetables. " The combination of food and meal is a unique business card in Yangzhou cooking, which inherits the tradition of "floating on cooking" and "floating on mother" in the eight treasures of Zhou Dynasty. In the Book of Food, there is a record that "Yue Guo eats broken golden rice", which is the originator of Yangzhou fried rice with eggs. It is said that Yangzhou fried rice with eggs has two "brother versions". One is "broken golden rice" made in Su Yang, in which eggs are fried into filaments and mixed in a rice. Silky eggs can't be associated with a grain of rice. It is also necessary to ensure that each grain of rice must be wrapped with a certain amount of oil, which is slightly transparent and looks like broken gold. First of all, Empress Dowager Cixi's favorite fried rice with gold wrapped in silver requires that the egg liquid must be evenly wrapped on each rice. Rice is fried, with distinct particles and color like fried gold. Every grain must be "outside the county".
Yangzhou fried rice with eggs is simply an art: first, if the rice is good, choose the best white indica rice or new white japonica rice; Second, we should be good at washing and rubbing with our hands, so that the water will pour out of the basket and become clear water instead of taupe; Third, we should make good use of fireworks, put rice in boiling water, cook it with strong fire until the rice grains swell and stretch, change to slow fire to gradually dry the soup, then stew it until it is bright and moist, and break it into granules with a rice spoon after leaving the fire to prevent sticking; Fourth, we must live in harmony with water, properly dry and wet ... when frying, we must also prevent burning, dress up and use famous porcelain. There is a saying that "delicious food is beautiful". These links are still left out of the key "speculators", which really responds to Yuan Mei's saying that "porridge and rice are the foundation and leftovers are the purpose."
A few years ago, Taiwan Province singer Yu Chengqing's "fried rice with eggs" was very popular in street video stores: hey, fried rice with eggs is the simplest and most difficult, and rice should be separated from eggs; Alas, fried rice with eggs is the simplest and most difficult. The wok doesn't turn fast enough to ensure that the signboard is smashed ... It is said that it has become the signature song of Yangzhou fried rice and set off a craze for fried rice in the fashion world. Later, when it was unfortunately "wooed" by the fast food industry in various places and reduced to refrigerated food produced by packaging, this kind of "fried rice with eggs" was no longer the absolutely beautiful "fried rice with eggs" at the standard Manchu banquet. Fortunately, in 2002, Yangzhou Cuisine Association issued "Yangzhou fried rice standard", which can be regarded as a rescue for it.
I went to Yangzhou in spring. In a small restaurant on Guangling Road, I ordered a bowl of fried rice with eggs. The little girl in charge asked me if I wanted fried rice with eggs or fried rice with Yangzhou, which shocked me. She also quipped that fried rice with eggs was not from Yangzhou. The little girl said solemnly, "No, there are only eggs in the fried rice with eggs, but there are many things in the fried rice with eggs in Yangzhou, such as ham and green beans ..." It seems that the technical standards are still quite useful, so I quickly stopped and said, I want a bowl of fried rice with eggs in Yangzhou.