To add to the LS masters, klasse w is an OEM product of Fujifilm Rollei. There are two types of Rolleiflex and Fujifilm. The lens bodies are the same. The difference is that they are used in Rollei. Rollei coating is not available in Fuji. The quality of this machine is average. Later, Fuji re-optimized it based on Rollei and launched Klasse S. The market response was also average. The film produced by this machine is relatively meaty, slightly better than T2, but much worse than T3.

Natura looks like a toy, but the lens is a good thing, but it has great limitations. It is suitable for shooting at night and in low light, and the body is not durable. There are many 1600 films, and Shanghai Starlight has a lot of them, but they are all ordinary 1600, with many and thick grains. Natura actually needs to use the Moonlight 1600 film specially developed by Fujifilm, but it is only sold in Japan, and very few in China. I have used it once, and the particles are very small, about the same as a 400 roll. If it is not a dedicated Moonlight 1600 roll, the film quality is actually not that interesting, it is just a fun game.

The maximum shutter value of Qiaosi AF is 1/250, not 1/500, and the minimum aperture is F22, which is a bit difficult during the day. At noon in July or in seaside scenes, F22+1/250 is actually not enough , you also need to wear a 2-stop DN light filter. The common shutter button of Qiaosi AF is oxidized and does not respond when pressed. You can disassemble it and clean it yourself, or replace the protruding shutter potentiometer of Canon 350D. If you replace it with another potentiometer, the height difference is 1MM. It can be used, but the feel is much different. . This lens is said to be able to compete with the Leica 35/2, which happens to be the Leica Seven Sisters. After comparison, it goes without saying that the color cannot be the same as the Leica. The difference in the out-of-focus is also relatively large. The center resolution is not as good as the Leica 35, and the edges are not as good as the Leica 35/2. It's a bit inferior, but the sense of space and three-dimensionality are similar. When shooting people at the maximum aperture, the background blur makes the characters look particularly three-dimensional.

I haven’t used the TC-1, so I can’t say, but I’ve seen on the Internet that there are a lot of problems with the aperture cable. It can be repaired in Taiwan, but it costs about 1,500 per repair, and there are very few spare parts. I have the 28-inch screw mount lens from G ROKKOR. How can I put it this way? This lens can be called the king at the 28 focal length of the PS camera. It is a well-deserved king. It is a high-contrast lens. The details in the dark parts are very clear. The light vignetting can especially enhance the atmosphere. , it can be said that if you only have one PS machine, it is absolutely right to choose TC-1. If that lens is made into a large lens and used for competition in the M system, it will be just a 28mm lens with decent quality. I also have the Ricoh GR28. It can dominate the PS machine, but it will be like that when transferred to a large machine. It's just a production of 1,000 pieces, so it has high collection value. If you really want to use it, there won't be many good ones. In addition, this lens has red shift and vignetting when used on the NEX series, and it is even more terrifying when used on the A7.

I have never used the GR1V, but I have used the GR1S for three years. Let’s not talk about the lack of strokes on the LCD. There must be cataracts in the viewfinder. I also encountered cataracts in the viewfinder. It is not that the viewfinder is white. , but the liquid crystal in the viewfinder turns black, a translucent black spot, which actually does not have a big impact on the view, but affects the mood. But everyone on the Internet talks about cataracts, so many people think it is white, but it is actually very white. also. The color of this machine is relatively strong, not quite like the Japanese machine. The lens distortion is quite severe, the center resolution is good, and the edges are average. Hyperfocal distance shooting is very easy to use. You don’t need to find the viewfinder to focus. You just raise your hand to shoot. This is why the strokes are missing. The reason why I could continue to use the cataract for three years was that the film winding motor broke down, so I took it and decapitated the lens. I changed it to an F5.6 fixed-aperture hyperfocal length lens and used it on the NEX. This lens was modified and used on the NEX. There are vignetting across the entire frame, with no solution. But the GR1 series has the best feel. It has a magnesium-aluminum alloy body. The metal is matte and has a grainy feel. It feels good in the hand. The body is very flat and very comfortable to hold. The power button is next to the viewfinder, making it easy to hold. It is very easy to accidentally press the phone when using the machine, especially when it is placed in a leather case. Sometimes the power button is accidentally pressed and the lens protrudes and is blocked by the leather case, causing mechanical damage. The solution is simple, just put a hard card in the leather case to block the back of the fuselage. Also, the words printed on this machine are very easy to come off. The words on the edge of the viewfinder and the power button can be removed for up to three months. The winding process of this machine is also quite interesting. It is to roll out all 37 pieces of film first, and then roll them out in the last step. Start taking pictures, then roll them one by one into the film box. This design ensures that the photos you have taken will not be damaged due to other reasons. The disadvantage is that you can take out the rolls midway through the shooting, which is more troublesome to use with other cameras. You cannot Evaluate the length of film shot.

As for the contax T3, I bought more than 10 units in order to get a complete set of accessories. The accessories for the T3 are very special, rarely available, and very expensive. For example, if you want to install a UV, you must first install an original UV adapter ring, otherwise there will be no threads on the lens for you to install. If you want to install a hood, you have to find a TVS special hood. Otherwise, there is no other The lens hood is available in this size.

The resolution of this lens is super high, in the style of modern Zeiss, and the colors are bright. Compared with the classical color style of T2, it is very different. T2 is a classical color, the resolution is not high, the maximum aperture is thicker, but the colors are very thick and rich. , most suitable for shooting after rain, dusk, and morning, the colors are intoxicating. The color of T3 is much lighter than that of T3, and the contrast of the lens is also higher, which is in line with the aesthetic taste of modern people. The T3 body is very small, and the grip is not very good. I usually stick a piece of leather on the right side of the body to improve the feel. In addition, the shutter lag is relatively long, so after pressing the shutter and hearing the sound, I have to hold it for a while. Know the posture. Compared with T2, T3 has a shutter speed up to 1/1000, while T2 has a shutter speed of 1/500, which means the usable leeway is much larger. As for the problem of single and double teeth, many people misunderstood it as a gear. No, it is actually a small protrusion on the winding shaft. The early T3 winding shaft only had a small protruding tooth. Many people were careless when loading the film. If the hole of the film is not aligned with the small protrusion, it is possible that the small protrusion does not catch the hole of the film. Because the diameter of each layer of film is different when the film is rolled, the space on the film will be blocked by the film behind it. This causes the small protruding teeth to keep rubbing against the film when winding the film, and will wear out over time. The solution is also very simple. Take a small screw of about the same size, make a small hole in the position of the small protruding tooth, and screw it in to replace the function of the small protruding tooth. Even if it is completely worn out, it can still be used. The force of the pressing plate on the take-up shaft can actually be used to hold down the film (the take-up shaft of Konica AF has no teeth, and the take-up shaft of RF does not have teeth either. The film shaft of CONTAX G1\G2 also has no teeth and relies on pressure to wind the film.) As long as you keep using new film, rather than using the film that is half-shot and then rolled back, because the new film has a very loose interior and little damping, the pull The film that is taken out and then rolled back is very tight inside, and if the damping is too great, the film may not be wound. The T3 in the mid-to-late period improved this situation and added a small protruding tooth to ensure that it can be hung with the film. As long as you are careful when loading the roll, there will be no problem. At the same time, you can remove the pressure plate and strengthen the pressure of the spring. It is also very useful. I took more than 200 rolls with a single-tooth T3. The teeth are still strong. It can be seen that many people have never used the T3 before, and have not even looked at the real machine carefully. They just follow what others say, and the more rumors spread, the more mysterious it becomes. A common problem with the T3 is the lens curtain problem, which is that sometimes the lens curtain will not close or open automatically. Only after taking the photo do you realize that the lens curtain is not fully opened, or dust easily enters. The main problem is that there are two sets of rubber rings inside the T3 lens. Because the T3 lens is two-stage, there is a rubber ring in each section to seal and block dust. Over time, the rubber ages and is moved by the movement of the lens. , causing the lens curtain to become misaligned, just open the casing of the fuselage and remove the aging rubber ring, or when the lens curtain does not open or close, tap the lens lightly with your finger, and it will be fine immediately. Another problem with T3 is that the power management is not good, that is, there is no so-called low-battery reminder, and the battery will be used up directly. This often leads to a situation where you can take a good shot one second, but then immediately run out of power and shut down the camera the next second. Without entering the fuselage, you can only replace the battery with a new one at this time. It is not feasible to take out the conventional battery and put it back for a while. In addition, the AE lock of this machine is very strange. The AE lock of other machines locks the exposure first and then focuses. The T3 is actually a focus lock. It locks the focus point first, then moves the lens to meter, half-press the shutter to lock the meter, shoot, and use It is a little different from conventional cameras, but it is very consistent with the usage habits of PS machines, that is, when taking street snapshots, the focus is directly locked.

The Leica MINILUX is a good machine, but not everyone will like the 40 focal length lens. This machine is notorious for its E02 problem. The cable arrangement is unreasonable and easy to break. However, this problem can be solved by Wuji's titanium knife. He went to the factory to make hundreds of cables, thickened ones, and covered with a layer of black glue, which is absolutely wear-resistant. The lens of this machine continues the consistent Leica style. The color, imaging, etc. are very Leica-like. I have seen several Wuji players remove the lens of this machine and send it to Japan to find Miyagi to change it into an M-mount lens. For comparison Other M-mount lenses produce films that are no less impressive. All in all, except that this machine is a bit larger and the cable arrangement is a little fragile, it is the cheapest Leica-flavored experience. The price of 1K to 2K is basically the same as cabbage price. MINILUX, which solves the cable arrangement problem, is definitely worth buying. Think about the cheapest Leica lenses cost 4\5000, but as long as the price is less than 2K, the camera body is also included. It is made entirely in Germany. What else can you be dissatisfied with? The disadvantage of this machine is that every time you turn it on, you have to turn off the flash, because the flash cannot be turned off by default. If you forget to turn it off when you turn it on, you won't be able to notice that it is not working when the light is sufficient. It will be embarrassing when the light is low. You flash, it will blind the dog's eyes.

There are a few more games on PS that are worth playing.

NIKON’s 28TI and 35TI are definitely models for all PS cameras in terms of appearance design. They have a very classical design. All data displays use old-fashioned instrument panels instead of LCD or LED. The color of the lens image is also typical. Nikon style, the lens itself is designed to be a low-contrast lens, which is different from other PS cameras. Low-contrast means that the grayscale is richer when shooting black and white, but there is not such strong color thickness in color photos. Look carefully. If you do this, the transitions and layers of colors will be more abundant, and you need to savor it carefully to feel it. If you compare it with the imaging of other PS machines, when shooting flowers, girls in floral clothes, etc., at first glance, they are not as good as other films. It is bright and eye-catching. If you take pictures of the faces of the elderly, the power of the 35TI will come into play. The richness of wrinkles will be astonishing, and the gap with other cameras will immediately widen. I only played with the 35TI for a week. I borrowed it from a friend and took less than one roll. It took so long that I kind of forgot the characteristics of this machine. The most powerful part of the 28TI and 35TI series is the metering, which adopts a 3D six-zone matrix metering system. It has 883 levels of focus at a time, which is close to stepless metering. Even the metering levels of many digital SLRs are worse now. However, the light metering of T3 is only 128 levels, and the metering of Ingenious is only 200 levels. Therefore, this machine is really invincible when shooting reversal films. The requirements for light metering of reversal films are very strict. The measurement of this machine is The light accuracy is even more accurate than the Shiguang 308S light meter currently priced at over 1,000 yuan. There are no major problems with this machine. The minor problem is that the pointer on the instrument display panel will shift inaccurately after being used for a long time. It needs to be calibrated by itself. There is a special calibration process. It does not need to be disassembled. Just press the button a few times. I have not calibrated it. Online There are tutorials.

When it comes to Minolta's CLE, it is not appropriate to call it a PS camera because it can change the lens, but if the lens is not included, its body is smaller than the CONTAX T2. If you replace it with Leica's retractable lens, when the lens is retracted, it will really be smaller than the T2. The advantage of this machine is that it can use Leica M-mount lenses. It is also the world's first M-mount camera with aperture priority, 20 years earlier than the Leica M7. Moreover, this camera is also the first to use TTL metering. It is more than ten years earlier than the M6. Like Leica, it uses a vertical curtain shutter. The shooting vibration is very small. The film is manually advanced. Only two LR44s are used to drive the shutter and meter. Batteries cost one dollar each and can be used casually without any worries. Its predecessor, the Minolta CL, was a product closely related to Leica. Minolta helped Leica produce it. The one with the Leica logo was called the Leica CL, and the one with the Minolta logo was called the Minolta CL. Because the sales of CL were so good, it affected the sales of the Leica M5. So the two parties later terminated their cooperation, and Minolta later launched the fully automatic CLE based on the CL. It comes with three original lenses, 28, 40, and 90, all Leica M-mounts, and they can all be used on Leica. Needless to say, the quality of the lenses is completely Leica design. The only difference is that the early lenses were made of glass provided by Leica. It was assembled by Minolta and later produced by Minolta itself. It has long been concluded that the CLE lenses produced by Minolta are of higher quality than the early Leica glass.