In front of the Red House Square is a long and narrow ring road, which is very old. Across the road is the Malacca River, known as Little Jiangnan, and the ancient residential area surrounded by it.

There are green trees and flowers everywhere along both sides of the river. The river is not wide, and the clear blue water flows gently with clear waves. A huge windmill on the shore slowly rotates in the wind against a row of wooden houses.

The buildings on both sides of the Taiwan Strait are scattered in height and in different styles. Surrounded by grass, trees and flowers. Rows of buildings with different shapes have a gorgeous and exotic atmosphere. It has both the nobility and elegance of modern architecture and the nostalgia of the white walls and black tiles that are common in water towns in the south of the Yangtze River in China. Especially the Chinese-colored paintings and Chinese calligraphy on the white walls are very reminiscent of the water town style in southern my country.

Strolling along the Malacca River, you will find the ancient fort surrounded by broken walls and ruins not far away under the blue sky and white clouds. Ancient cannons stood there with their heads held high. Under the cover of a patch of verdant tropical grass and trees and colorful flowers, it tells people the scars that the smoke of history has brought to this ancient city.

Malacca is an ancient city that has experienced many wars.

There is a maritime museum a little far away from the ancient city. There is a huge sailing ship there, which is a replica of the prototype of the Portuguese galleon "Flower of the Sea".

In 1502, the Flower of the Sea was launched in Lisbon, Portugal. This huge ship was the largest ship in the world at the time. It later participated in many battles and conquered the Malacca Sultanate with its fleet. While returning home with loot, it sank off the coast of Malacca.

Looking at it, you can appreciate the stormy life of our ancestors. Full of emotion. Can’t help but pray for peace. Have a peaceful and peaceful life today. We can sit here, rest and watch the Red House Square in front of us and the bustling and energetic tourists.

In front of you, floats shuttle back and forth from time to time, which is dazzling. These tricycle-modified floats are colorful. It was decorated with flowers, flags and deafening music. The coachmen were dressed in colorful clothes, showing their dark arms and faces, and were looking for customers everywhere. They speak several languages ??and are good at asking for prices. He also serves as a tour guide, soliciting guests for the hotel.

Previous article Chinese Jonker Street

The Malacca River is crystal clear, and boats slowly pass by from time to time. Sitting on the hot shore, listening to the chirping of birds in the trees, and the gentle breeze blowing, it really feels like being in the south of the Yangtze River in our country.

Crossing the small bridge over the Malacca River is the famous Jonker Street. This is an ancient city where Chinese people gather. Antique and full of charm.

Jonker Street is a very bustling street. It has a history of more than 300 years. Its original meaning is derived from the Hokkien word "street street", because more than 600 years ago, the famous Chinese navigator Zheng He made seven voyages to the West and stationed in Malacca five times (some say six times). Jonker Street and its more than 20 surrounding streets and alleys became the earliest concentration of Chinese immigrants in Southeast Asia.

Walking here will give people the illusion of traveling through time and space.

As soon as you enter Jonker Street, almost all of them are Chinese faces, with eye-catching Chinese characters and red lanterns. It's like going back to the ancient times of China.

The houses are very unique. You can see ancient Chinese streets everywhere. The streets are not wide and are lined with old-fashioned arcades. Many are two-story old-fashioned buildings with a history of more than a hundred years. The old streets and old houses are filled with the vicissitudes of history. Many of the door lintels facing the street have plaques with Chinese characters engraved on them. Brand names such as "Tongfa" and "Fengshun" are all left by the Chinese ancestors at that time. There are Fujian Huayuan, Hainan Huayuan, Yongchun Huayuan, Yongan Huayuan, Cantonese Huayuan, and various religious temples. It seems like I have returned to my hometown in the South. Makes people feel more friendly.

Fujian Huayuan and Hainan Huayuan have a history of more than 200 years. In particular, the ancient architecture of the Fujian Guild Hall is a classic. The bracketed cornices and the two lifelike colorful three-dimensional dragon columns standing at the door are truly art treasures. With obvious southern characteristics.

In addition to the many ancient Chinese Nanyang-style buildings that can be seen everywhere in Jonker Street, there are also bustling markets. There are many shopping stores, antique shops, cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops and various stalls on the street. Sells various daily necessities, clothing, handicrafts, Chinese herbal medicines, and famous local products. There are also beautiful foods and special snacks, where you can feel the rich Nanyang flavor.

There are not many people here during the day, and its golden hour is at night.

Every weekend, a night market is held here. There are usually some theatrical performances.

As the lanterns come on, Jonker Street becomes lively. The narrow old street is lined with stalls selling all kinds of goods. Shops and restaurants, big and small, are also brightly lit. Tourists of all colors rub shoulders with each other, making it very lively. Those novel snacks and unknown fruits that you have never seen before will make people want to taste them. The most popular thing among tourists is the various pastries. The time-honored San Shu Gong Pastry Shop on the street still maintains its ancient style. Always packed with customers. Its pastries are favorite takeaway gifts.

Strolling along Jonker Street, you will find a small garden on the roadside. The area is not large. It is completely Chinese architectural style and gardening style. The flowers, trees, and art sculptures inside are pleasing to the eye.

It is a place for local residents to relax. It is really interesting to find tranquility in such a noisy street.

There is a stage at the end of Jonker Street. On evenings when there are events, city residents will gather there to watch various cultural and artistic performances with a strong rural flavor. People were sitting under the stage watching and chatting, enjoying the joy of life.

Although Jonker Street is old, it feels novel. Despite the hustle and bustle, it was delightful. I feel the strong Chinese rural flavor here.

Next article The Former Residence of Babas and Nyonya

The former Jonker Street and surrounding streets were home to many rich and powerful Babas and Nyonya in Malacca. Its unique "Nyonya culture" is an important part of tourists' curiosity.

Baba and Nyonya are mainly terms used exclusively in Southeast Asian countries. Specifically refers to the Ming Dynasty Chinese immigrants and local aborigines who came to Malacca, Singapore and other places in the early 15th century, mainly the mixed descendants of Malays after intermarriage. Also known as Peranakan or Straits Chinese. Fundamentally speaking, it is generally believed that it mainly stems from two parts.

According to legend, Zheng He, the navigator of the Ming Dynasty, made seven voyages to the West and was stationed in Malacca. There will be people left. After the last death at sea, the Ming army stationed on the Malay Peninsula stayed, and the children born from intermarriage with local indigenous people were called "Baba" for men and "Nyonya" for women. This is a widely circulated and generally accepted statement.

In addition, it is said that the "Malay Annals" records that Princess Han Libao of the Ming Dynasty of China married the Sultan of Malacca. Bring 500 attendants. These people later intermarried with local nobles. It is widely spread in the local area. But there is no record in Chinese literature. Not recognized by scholars.

In fact, whether it is the people left behind by Zheng He’s fleet or the people brought by the dissident Han Libao, even if they exist, they are only part of the Baba and Nyonya ancestors.

In fact, as early as before or during the same period, there were Chinese people from Guangdong, Fujian and other places in China who came to Nanyang to make a living. Especially at the end of the Yuan Dynasty and the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, there were frequent domestic wars. Many people were displaced and forced to go to Southeast Asia. It is said that the earliest Chinese arrivals in Southeast Asia can be traced back to the Tang and Song dynasties. These people should be part of their ancestors after intermarriage with local people.

I once met a Chinese named Yun in Singapore. He calls himself a Mongolian and has been here for many generations. The history of immigration is already hazy.

Scholars have different opinions on the term Nanyang Peranakan or Straits Chinese. But it generally refers to the descendants of the earliest Chinese who came to China and the intermarriage between local people. To distinguish them from the latecomers of traditional Chinese who are called Xinke.

These Chinese descendants generally live in Malacca, Penang, and Singapore.

Although they have lived here for many generations. Far away from mainland China, it inherits the traditional customs of the Chinese nation. Pay attention to filial piety and etiquette. We respect Chinese traditions in terms of culture and customs. They integrated the local language, clothing and food habits into their daily lives, and also absorbed the local Malay culture and customs. Whether it is language, food, clothing or wedding ceremonies, they all show the characteristics of the integration of Chinese and Malaysian cultures. Especially in food and clothing, it has formed its own unique characteristics. Its unique and various Nyonya delicacies have become a major feature of Baba and Nyonya culture. Hundreds of years have passed, and most of these people no longer speak Chinese, and some have switched to English. Or a mixed language that combines Chinese Fujian dialect and Malay, called Baba. Today these people have integrated into the local population.

In the ancient city, we visited the representative Baba and Nyonya Ancestral House Museum.

This is a private residence. It is the ancestral home of a wealthy local Baba family. The current owner is the fourth generation.

The museum is located next to a quiet and not very wide street. Not very impressive. There is a plaque above the door. As requested, we rang the doorbell and a thin old woman came to open the door.

On the surface, the building of this former residence is simple and ordinary. It doesn't stand out on this street. No one would have thought that walking in would be like entering a beautifully carved, magnificent and dazzling history museum. This kind of family is not unique in the ancient city.

What is a wealthy businessman? What is a wealthy family? What is a noble house? You'll never know until you go in.

This building has been owned by the Tseng family since 1861. Four generations of the Zeng family have lived here, and now the whole family has moved out. It was changed to today's museum in 1985. The descendants of the Tseng family are still in charge of this family business.

It is said that the Singapore TV series "Little Nyonya" was filmed here. Photos of Ou Xuan, the Little Nyonya actor, are displayed in the room.

The architectural pattern of houses is extremely particular.

Standing outside the living room, you can see a square hole above the roof. It is the observation hole used by the owner to observe outside the building on the second floor. You can directly observe the situation outside the hall door. The function is similar to the cat's eye on today's security door. This shows the thoroughness of the original design.

The first thing you feel after entering the lobby is the luxurious design style and decoration. This building shows the multiculturalism and fashion sense of the era when wealthy people lived.

The interior decoration is basically Chinese style. Extensive use of gold lacquer wood carving techniques from southern China. It also incorporates elements of Dutch and British Victorian architectural styles.

In addition to carved beams and painted buildings, exquisitely carved and inlaid wood carvings can be seen everywhere. Such as eaves, door leaves, corridors, screens, etc. All kinds of wooden furniture, such as cabinets, beds, tables, chairs, stools, ornaments, etc., also show the meticulous craftsmanship. The themes of carvings are basically rocks, flowers, cranes, branches and leaves, etc. Many are decorated with mother-of-pearl and marble.

Some furniture is also inlaid with many pearls and shellfish, and at the same time, blooming cherry flowers and various rare birds are inlaid with various unnamed rare materials.

The furniture is made of luxurious materials. The carving area is deep and wide, and the grinding and inlaying are fine. At the same time, the technique of round sculpture is used. The carving is lifelike.

A plaque reading "Chasing the Distance" hangs above the living room. On the wall are photos of generations of ancestors of the main family. There is the first generation of Malay women in this family. There is a gentle Chinese male host. There are also photos of couples from several generations, including the first and second generations of Baba and Nyonya in the family.

There are many exquisite gold and silver porcelain and Western fancy handicrafts in the hall, which is breathtaking.

There are many exquisite ceramic crafts from a long time ago in the hall and rooms. Both the ornaments and utensils were custom-imported from famous porcelain manufacturers in Jiangxi and Guangdong, China.

There are many embroideries hanging on the walls of the living room. If you don't pay attention, you might think they are paintings. Most of the patterns have the auspicious meanings of wealth and good fortune, such as pine trees and cranes prolonging life. It is said that the materials were shipped from China and asked to be embroidered locally by embroiderers from Suzhou, China. It has a history of more than 100 years.

The furniture used in the entire building, whether in the living room or bedroom, including the Eight Immortals table, Taishi chair, Arhat bed, coffee table, chests, etc., have been passed down for generations. All have a history of more than a hundred years.

All furniture, doors, windows, columns, and even stairs are made of high-quality Chinese mahogany. The marble inlaid on the furniture comes from Dali, Yunnan, China, and is inlaid with beautiful shells. All tables and chairs are connected with wooden lasts, not a single nail. Even the stairs are nail-free. It is said that the owner invited craftsmen from China and made them locally.

The most amazing thing is that the golden patterns on the furniture, doors and windows are all made of gold foil. In fact, all the gold and silver decorative patterns throughout the house are made of gold and silver foil.

From today's perspective, every item in the entire building is a valuable work of art.

What I saw in front of me was really shocking. What's amazing about them is not their age or their splendor. It's not about the fine workmanship and the extravagance of spending money like water. The reason is that these exquisite craftsmanship, precious materials and even the craftsmen of great countries traveled across the ocean and came from China in an era when transportation was not convenient and the distances were very long. It can't help but be deeply moved.

The screen door between the living room and the hall is inlaid with translucent glass. This was also a luxury item at the time. A large lantern hangs above the hall, which is the name of the main family - Zeng Mansion

There is a leisure patio outside the hall. There is a stone fish carved on the wall of the patio. It is not only a decoration, but also a drainage outlet. When it rains, the rainwater from the roof flows down through the water pipe in the wall, and then flows out from the fish mouth. What a sight.

The kitchen is very spacious. There are many daily utensils of the family on display inside.

The most jaw-dropping thing is the four sets of dishes. They are used in different situations and have different functions.

The most beautiful set of doucai is used by the host family for weddings and celebrations. The most plain blue and white ones are used for funerals. A red-edged set for when guests come. A set of white colors is used for daily meals. The four sets of tableware are used separately according to the occasion. This is the rule of wealthy people.

The staircase leading from the lobby to the second floor is made of thick Chinese mahogany. The back of the stairs is carved with exquisite patterns and decorated with gold. It is said that this luxurious staircase is the only one of its kind.

Go up the stairs to the second floor, where you will find the master's bedroom. It mainly displays the clothes and utensils worn by Baba and Nyonya during their wedding. A pair of models in the room are wearing the traditional wedding costumes of Baba and Nyonya. Opposite are the wedding utensils.

It is said that Nyonya’s wedding clothes are usually made by themselves. In the old days, wealthy families had many criteria for selecting wives. In addition to cooking skills, another important condition is female celebrity. Therefore, little Nyonya generally can make Nyonya cakes and other delicacies. Their needlework directly affects their lives.

Opposite the new house is the longevity hall. There are some shrouds, utensils and other items used by families for funerals on display.

What is impressive is that there are two thick fence doors at the stair exit on the second floor. The two doors can seal the entire stair exit when closed. At that time, the key was kept by the mistress of the house. Every day after dinner, the little Nyonyas would go back to their houses to do beadwork and needlework. The owner closes the door and locks the stairs. In this way, gangsters outside at night can be prevented from breaking into the upstairs to do evil. At the same time, young Nyonyas cannot sneak out to go shopping or meet lovers. It reflects strict traditional family rules and tutoring.

With the passage of time and changes in local social conditions, the Baba and Nyonya cultures have actually gradually declined. However, the history of Chinese people's struggle, development and contribution in Nanyang will always be admired by future generations.

2021.12.16.