Many people learned about Shaoxing through Lu Xun's articles: Wupeng Boat, Felt Hat, Social Opera, Kong Yiji, Fennel Bean, etc. Although many things have disappeared, many essences of food culture still exist.
Shaoxing cuisine is divided into three series: pickled vegetables, stinky vegetables and moldy vegetables. Listen to me.
Shaoxing people seem to have a special liking for the word "mildew", such as dried vegetables, thousands of pieces of mildew, moldy edamame, moldy tofu, etc. Dried vegetables are authentic Shaoxing traditional dishes, and Zhejiang dried vegetables are the most authentic in Shaoxing. The dried moldy vegetables are soaked in water, then drained, dry-stewed and fermented. When you want to eat, put the dried mushrooms in a bowl, put a few slices of Jinhua ham or pork belly on the surface, a few slices of bamboo shoots, light a few drops of daughter red (yellow wine), and steam thoroughly in the pot. When you put a chopstick on it, you can feel the smell of meat and the sweetness of bamboo shoots seeping into the dried vegetables. It is delicious, fat but not greasy, and it is a delicacy for next meal. Dried moldy vegetables must be eaten while it is hot, with rice or steamed bread, which is tempting and can really make people eat more than half a bowl of rice.
Pickles and pickles, Shaoxing likes to make Laiyao dishes by pickling with sauce, that is, fish, chickens and ducks, all kinds of internal organs, or sauce or pickling, are exposed to the sun and wind outdoors until the water is dried. On the edge of the twelfth lunar month, in the streets, in front of every house and under every porch, pickled products are hung on the poles, which adds a new year atmosphere to the water town. Dried fish in sauce, after steaming out of the pot, is full of fragrance and tastes wonderful. The meat of dried fish in sauce is not as hard as that of chicken and duck in sauce, and it is easy to plug teeth. After heating, it is soft and delicious, chewed carefully and has a unique taste.
The stinky vegetables include stinky white gourd, sweet potato stalks, stinky dried tofu, and so on. When we arrived at the gate of Xianheng Hotel, the smell coming from our nose was the smell of fried stinky tofu. Stinky tofu can be described as extremely unpleasant to the nose, but as long as you have the courage to eat the first piece, you will find it crisp and Marie Laure Gigon, smelly and charming, and even more attractive when you put on hot sauce and sweet sauce, and you will have an indissoluble bond with it from then on. The smell of fried stinky tofu often comes from the streets and deep alleys of Shaoxing, so many people willingly stand on the street and eat fried stinky tofu with the smell of nasal flushing.
Shaoxing wine is a low-alcohol wine made of pure grain, with moderate sugar and acid and rich nutrition. Moderate drinking can promote fluid production and blood circulation, promote metabolism, and has the effects of refreshing, appetizing and relieving fatigue. Drinking method of yellow rice wine: The drinking method of Shaoxing wine is quite particular. In the summer and summer season, add some ice cubes to the glass, inject a small amount of yellow wine, and finally dilute it with water. Some people can also put a slice of lemon into the cup, which is called cold drink. Warm drink in winter, put the wine container in hot water to heat it, or heat it up from the fire. Warm drinking is characterized by rich wine aroma and soft wine taste. But the heating time should not be too long, otherwise the alcohol will evaporate, but it will be tasteless. When heated, the wine is rich in color and aroma, and it warms the stomach and promotes blood circulation after drinking, which is very refreshing.
Good wine accompaniment: When drinking, you can appreciate the unique flavor of yellow wine with different dishes. Take Shaoxing wine as an example: dry Yuan red wine should be accompanied with cold dishes such as vegetables and jellyfish; Semi-dry rice wine is suitable for meat and hairy crabs; Semi-sweet good wine, suitable for chickens and ducks;
taidiao wine is a registered patent yellow rice wine of Shaoxing Xianheng hotel. After more than eight years of aging storage and blending by the best method, the wine is pure and mellow, with rich aroma and endless aftertaste. 5 kg jar is too carved for 19~288 yuan.
We went to Xianheng Hotel FB this time because the leaders of our company came to inspect and the customers got a dinner. We still insisted on local dishes, and ordered braised pork with moldy dried vegetables, moldy thousand pieces, moldy edamame, moldy tofu, drunken chicken cans, stinky steamed tofu, steamed fish, fried stinky dried tofu, boiled shrimp, ham and corn soup, etc., 1 kg of eight-year-old carved rice with pickled vegetables (here, Understand some of the essence of Shaoxing food culture.
The degree of yellow rice wine is not high (11~15 degrees), but it has great stamina. Don't drink too much and drink too much, and get drunk.
restaurants, pubs, tea shops and snack bars in Shaoxing are characterized by large quantity, dispersion and small scale. In 1949, there were 844 restaurants in Shaoxing with a population of only 1,. Shaoxing county has a population of over one million, and there are as many as 2,46 restaurants. Shaoxing has a well-developed wine-making and tea-making industry, with a large output and excellent quality. People have a traditional habit of drinking and drinking tea, and there are many pubs and tea shops. Restaurants are mostly distributed in urban and rural market towns or traffic arteries. There are many varieties and unique cooking methods in the cooking of dishes related to restaurants. The traditional cooking techniques include 32 kinds of techniques, such as simmering, simmering, drunkenness, stewing, mildew and salting, which are various and lead the way. In 199, there were 6,152 catering enterprises with 13,95 employees.
Section 1 Restaurant Snack Bar
Shaoxing cooking has a long history. Biography of Huo Zhi in Historical Records records that "the land of Chu and Yue ... rice, rice, soup and fish". In the Southern Song Dynasty, Yue Jian, a Shaoxing boy, wrote the secret book "Tiaoding Collection", which has influenced it to this day.
During the reign of Tongzhi in the Qing Dynasty (1862 ~ 1874), the Orchid Pavilion in Shaoxing City (changed from a stall to a shop) opened at the foot of Dajiang Bridge, with a shop area of nearly 2 square meters and 22 dining tables. The owner, surnamed Zhao, mainly deals in door-plank rice, with moderate fresh and salty dishes and cheap prices. At noon alone, there are more than a dozen batches of people who take turns to have meals. The rice needs to be cooked for more than 2 stones (15 kilograms) and about 2, customers are received. This store specializes in cooking fish with vinegar, Shao-style small buttons and single rot, and has become a famous dish in Shaoxing and has been passed down to this day.
In Guangxu period (1875 ~ 198), Wangjianglou Steamed Bread Shop was opened in Nongkou, Xinhe, the urban area. The "Shoukou Steamed Bread" made by it was thin-skinned, stuffed, smooth, tough and fragrant, with a delicious taste and good business. During the period of the Republic of China, the famous restaurants in the urban area were the pavilion with several pavilions, Xinglin Building, Xinhe Lane Zhiweiguan Building, Tongchun Building, Kaminooji Duoyi Building, Xiaojiangqiao Daqing Building, Chang 'anmen Juchang Building and so on. Among them, the new stores pay attention to ostentation and extravagance, clean and wide, well-equipped, and use a full set of silver tableware for the banquet, with exquisite cooking skills and unique flavor, which is well-known, and many citizens gather here for dinner and banquet.
In 1925, Rongluchun Dim Sum Shop opened in Xuantingkou, and its "small steamed baozi" was praised by customers for its thin skin, filling and fresh juice.
In the 25th year of the Republic of China, there were 83 restaurants in Shaoxing city with a capital of 9,351 yuan and an annual turnover of 27,729 yuan. There are 2 Chinese and Western restaurants with a capital of 7,21 yuan and an annual turnover of 3,623 yuan. There are 29 rice cake shops with a capital of 5,175 yuan and an annual turnover of 9,498 yuan. There are 27 fried dough sticks biscuit shops with a capital of 2,58 yuan and an annual turnover of 7, yuan.
During War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression's period, all trades were depressed, and the catering business was sluggish, so most restaurants and restaurants closed or switched jobs. After War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression's victory, the catering industry recovered slightly.
in 35 years of the Republic of China (1946), when the Chamber of Commerce was registered, there were 37 restaurants and 25 pastry shops, excluding vendors.
in the early 195s, there were 772 restaurants in the whole region. Due to the low living standard of the people, frugality, frugality and extravagance, the catering business was light, with a turnover of more than 9, yuan, most of them could only operate at breakeven.
in p>1956, Shaoxing catering company was established, and various counties also set up catering companies one after another, and carried out socialist transformation of private catering industry. In the urban area, eight food restaurants, such as Rongluchun, Tongxin Building, Wuweihe, Lanxiang Pavilion, Phoenix Pavilion, Zhangliuji, Zhangshengji, Shengyuanxing, were cleared for assets and capital verification, and the shares were purchased at a fixed price, and the interest was paid according to the national redemption policy. The staff continued to work and implemented a public-private partnership. There are four public-private partnerships in Shaoxing's dim sum industry: Shen Guiji, Heping jiaozi Store, Wang Chengji (Wangjianglou) and Gao Deji. There are four pastry groups: Ding Daxing Shengji, Ding Daxing Mark, Baoxing and Wu Laiyun. In addition, 237 small shops will be organized into 28 management groups in a cooperative manner, operating independently and taking responsibility for their own profits and losses; 433 vendors will be formed into 48 cooperative groups.
in the climax of "commune" in p>1958, the catering industry changed greatly, changing decentralized management into centralized management, merging outlets and delegating personnel. Due to the compression of food supply index and insufficient supply capacity, in order to save food, the catering industry promotes substitutes, in which fried dough sticks are made of 75% standard flour and 25% sweet potato flour; Noodles are made of 7% standard flour and 3% sweet potato flour. In the early 196s, when grain production was reduced, it entered a difficult period of "substituting melons and vegetables", and the catering industry was once in trouble. Only coarse grains can be carefully cultivated and supplied together. In order to meet the needs of different levels, Shaoxing restaurant was set up in Shaoxing city for high-priced vegetable rice.
in p>1965, when the economic situation improved, Shaoxing restaurant cancelled the high-priced vegetable rice, and gradually diversified its supply varieties, and began to attach importance to restoring traditional dishes. During the "Cultural Revolution", the traditional skills and management characteristics of the catering industry were regarded as "closed, funded and repaired" and cancelled; Adapting to the diverse needs of consumers is said to be "serving the bourgeois minority"; The famous Lanxiang Pavilion was renamed the Hotel of Workers, Peasants and Soldiers, and Rongluchun was changed to Dongfanghong Hotel. Individual catering industry is regarded as "the tail of capitalism" and cut off.
in p>1972, there were 31 restaurants in Shaoxing city, a decrease of 4.4% compared with 1965. Advocating "do-it-yourself service" for customers' meals, the variety of meals is single, the quality is declining, the famous dishes are out of order, and the cooking technology is not connected. In 1978, there were 64 restaurants in the whole region, with 5179 employees. Among them, there are 86 catering businesses in Shaoxing city, with 5,24 business seats and 1,536 employees, with an annual turnover of 7.262 million yuan and a profit of 421, yuan.
since p>1978, the catering industry has implemented the policy of "adjustment, reform, rectification and improvement" and developed the collective and individual catering industry. In the case of enlivening the catering industry and fierce competition, the state-owned catering industry has reformed its management mode, divided small accounting units, implemented the contract responsibility system, and small state-owned enterprises have implemented the transformation operation, or are owned by the state and operated collectively; Or directly into collective ownership enterprises; Or leased to the operator for personal operation. At the same time, reform the wage form, implement floating wages and commission wages, and promote the rapid development of the catering industry.
in p>1983, there were 2,721 restaurants in the city with 7,245 employees. Among them, there are 125 catering businesses with 747 seats and 1741 employees in Shaoxing city, with an annual turnover of 13.142 million yuan and a profit of 953, yuan, respectively increasing by 45.3%, 43.5%, 13.3%, 8.9% and 126% compared with 1978. In order to adapt to the opening up and make Shaoxing, a famous historical and cultural city, attract many tourists from home and abroad, a number of famous hotels (restaurants) with modern characteristics, such as Chaoyang Hotel, Shen Yonghe Restaurant, Rong Lu Spring Restaurant, Overseas Chinese Hotel and Lanxiang Restaurant, have been built and rebuilt, and efforts have been made to restore traditional famous dishes, highlight traditional flavor, pay attention to the quality of dishes and improve service attitude. City catering service companies set up technical schools to train young workers.
In p>199, there were 1 special third-class chef, 12 first-class chefs, 29 second-class chefs and 53 third-class chefs in the city's commercial system. There are 3 third-level west point teachers; Three pastry chefs. By the end of the year, there were 5,464 catering businesses in the city, with 11,723 employees and an annual turnover of 88.94 million yuan. Among them, there are 85 restaurants in the urban area with 5663 employees (including 95 commercial systems with 1218 employees), with a registered capital of 15.46 million yuan (fixed capital of 9.93 million yuan and working capital of 5.53 million yuan), an annual turnover of 25.956 million yuan and a profit of 1.517 million yuan.
pub tea shop
pub
Shaoxing wine is famous, and Shaoxing people are also famous for drinking. In the Southern Song Dynasty, Shaoxing had "a hundred wines in the city" (Lu You's poems).
during the Ming and Qing dynasties, there were many restaurants and restaurants in urban and rural areas, which was called "everywhere restaurants" (Xu Weishi).
Around the 2th year of Guangxu reign (1894), Lu Xun's uncle Zhou Zhongxiang opened Xianheng Hotel in Duchangfangkou. Its layout is the same as that of other Shaoxing hotels: there are curved counters facing the street, with Qinglong brand on it, and the words "Liu Ling stops" and "Taibai legacy" are written on it; On the horizontal cabinet facing the street, the "wine embryo" is displayed; The shop has built-in small board tables and long benches, which are simple in equipment and elegant but not vulgar.
During the Republic of China, the famous hotels in the urban area included Shen Yonghe Nanhao, Zhang Qinghe, Fu Youji, etc., which were well equipped with private rooms, and their employers were mostly middle and upper class people. The wine dishes are mainly cold dishes. If customers need to stir-fry, the owner will send someone to buy them. "Wine embryo" is changed all year round, and cold dishes are served in spring, including sauce duck, bad chicken, dried fish, happy eggs, smoked goose, etc. In summer, it is jellyfish, fresh broad beans, fresh arhat beans, preserved eggs, boiled chicken, steamed pork, fried peanuts, etc. In autumn, there are osmanthus chestnuts and Yangcheng Lake crabs, which are packed in wire cages and placed on the counter for customers to choose. Now they are eaten now, and a small dish of minced ginger and vinegar is prepared. In winter, there are chopped goose, steamed stuffed bun with bean curd skin, beef, salted boiled peanuts and so on. Shaoxing wine should be drunk warm, and the hotel has a warm wine cylinder (commonly known as a barrel). When the customer sits down, it will be served warm wine. Most of the small hotels are husband-and-wife shops, which are all over the streets. Most of the wine embryos are celery, pig's head, vegetarian chicken, fennel beans, dried fragrant herbs, etc. Their customers are ordinary citizens, foil workers and other small handicraft workers.
according to the statistics in the 25th year of the Republic of China (1936), there were 367 Shaoxing hotels with a capital of 194,156 yuan and an annual turnover of 482,523 yuan.
in p>3 years, Shaoxing fell, and hotels were closed due to extortion by the Japanese puppet army and police. After War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression's victory, he recovered a little.
in p>35 years, when Shaoxing county chamber of commerce investigated, there were 129 hotels. ?
in p>1952, Shaoxing? ① According to the statistics of the monopoly branch, there are 151 hotels and 84 vendors.
In p>1956, the private catering industry was transformed into a socialist one, and Shen Yonghe Restaurant was transformed into a public-private partnership.
by the climax of "commune" in 1958, all hotels and vendors were organized into 14 cooperative stores with decentralized operation and negative profits and losses according to regions (Fushan, Mangshan, Beihai and Tashan). During the "Cultural Revolution" period, the hotel business was light and difficult to maintain, so it had to run vegetables, rice and snacks concurrently and develop into comprehensive management. In 1978, there was only one "Dongjie Zero Hotel" left in the pure hotel in the urban area.
in p>1981, on the eve of the 1th anniversary of the birth of Mr. Lu Xun, Xianheng Hotel, which had been closed for many years, reopened. Three brick and wood storefronts with white walls and white tiles and stone slabs paved with bluestone were all antique. The furnishings in the store are still the same as before: rectangular counters, large and small tubes, small board tables, white bamboo chopsticks, blue-edged soup bowls and so on. The store serves Shaoxing wine of Yuanhong, Jiafan, Shanniang and Xiangxue, which is full of customers all day long, and receives more than 1, Chinese and foreign tourists every year on average.
in p>1988, a restaurant and a canteen were newly built with an area of 5 square meters, and a number of supporting facilities such as square tables and domino stools were added. At the same time, Xianheng Hotel (semicolon) was opened in Beijing, Tianjin, Hangzhou, Ningbo and Guangzhou. People come to Xianheng Hotel to drink a glass of Shaoxing wine and taste a dish of fennel beans, so they can taste the Shaoxing style written by Lu Xun.
tea shop?
Tea shops, also known as teahouses, belong to the traditional catering industry and sell boiled water and bowls of tea.
During the Republic of China, the Shilu Tea Room in Huaxiang Cloth Guild Hall was the most famous in Shaoxing, with a wide courtyard, spacious windows, dozens of corridors and tea rooms around, comfortable chairs and couches, and a small pot of tea, which was a meeting place for wealthy children, businessmen and other upper-class people. Every ten days, on the afternoon of every Wednesday and 8th, Shaoxing traditional folk art "Pinghu Tune" plays and sings. On the first floor of the West Bridge in the city, Tianxiangge, the Yueming Tea Room at the foot of Dajiang Bridge, is dominated by bowls of tea. Most of the customers are old customers. Everyone has a fixed seat, and they will come every day, rain or shine. They often talk about state affairs, negotiate business, and sometimes play chess for fun. The chess game is not finished.