Everyone is no stranger to Tongguan Roujiamo.

The signature of Tongguan Roujiamo has long been famous all over the world and has become a favorite delicacy among Chinese people. Therefore, it has become a gourmet business card of Tongguan. In 2011, the production skills of Tongguan Roujiamo were listed as intangible materials in Shaanxi Province.

Cultural Heritage List.

However, if you explore the history of Roujiamo, it is not difficult to find that there are many changes and persistence in this palm-sized Roujiamo.

In the small town of Crescent Moon Spring, the boss's improvement of the meat filling was a kind of modification, and this kind of modification has happened many times in the past thousand years.

Let's start from the beginning.

In Tongguan, the story of Roujiamo and Li Shimin is widely circulated.

Legend has it that in the early Tang Dynasty, when King Li Shimin of Qin passed by Tongguan, he tasted Tongguan Roujiamo and praised it profusely: "Wonderful, I didn't know there was such delicious food in the world." From this, Tongguan Roujiamo became famous all over the world.

Perhaps this is the first change.

You know, sesame cakes were not invented by the ancient Han people.

Before the Qin and Han Dynasties, Han people were accustomed to eating "soup cakes" or "steamed cakes" on the dining table. These two cakes were completely different from today's sesame cakes. One was like today's braised noodles, and the other was like today's pancakes.

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Later, around the Han Dynasty, Zhang Qian or Ban Chao connected with the Western Regions and brought back "Hu Cake", which was probably the predecessor of Shaobing, which is what we now call "Nan".

The most prosperous time for this Hu cake happened to be in the Tang Dynasty.

Perhaps, when Li Shimin, who was fighting in all directions, happened to put the cooked meat into the biscuits he carried when passing through Tongguan, this became the eternal legend of Tongguan Roujiamo.

Later, people's diet continued to develop and evolve, and later many foods that were popular with the common people appeared, such as steamed buns, steamed buns, etc.

Of course, the bun used in this Roujiamo also changed immediately.

From Hu cakes to steamed buns, this may be the second adaptation of Tongguan Roujiamo.

But no one knows when this change started, but what is certain is that during the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, the buns used in Tongguan Roujiamo were still steamed buns.

Social and economic development can promote changes in things. When the speed of social and economic development is faster, things will change faster.

The same is true for Tongguan Roujiamo.

At the beginning of the last century, Tongguan Roujiamo changed again, and the steamed buns became beef tongue cakes.

However, within a few years, after the founding of the People's Republic of China, the steamed bun changed into the round oil cake we see today.

To this day, Tongguan Roujiamo is still undergoing changes, but these changes have been relatively small. For example, this store in Yueyaquan Town uses green peppers to add flavor to the meat filling. Similar to this change, I believe it has already

There are many.

No matter how it changes, Tongguan Roujiamo is adapted to local conditions and caters to people's changing tastes.

Where there is flexibility, there is persistence. This persistence is not directed at skills, but more of a feeling.

For Tongguan people, Tongguan Roujiamo is a kind of food that they can be proud of.

In Tongguan, people are more accustomed to calling meat buns meat buns, and eating meat buns is more like an honor, a blessing, or a kind of satisfaction and pride in the hearts of Tongguan people. It can be said that it goes far beyond eating meat buns.

The concept even shows a simple and unpretentious sentiment.

Why do you say that?

A friend from Tongguan told us that this meat bun has so many stories.

Friends said that in Tongguan in the past, no matter who mentioned the meat buns, they would show a coveted expression, as if they were talking about a worldly treasure.

Even now, when conditions are better, this situation still exists.

Especially in the past, when people were arguing over something, they would use meat buns as a bet.

If one party loses, the winner will, under the "coercion" of the witness, ask the loser to buy meat buns and enjoy them together. At this time, the two parties, who had just argued so loudly that they were blushing and thick-necked, will be embarrassed by several things.

The meat buns are back together again.

Therefore, in Tongguan, it is often heard that someone ate three or five meat buns because he won a bet. In normal times, these three or five meat buns are several times his appetite.

In addition to the meat buns as a bet, there are of course many other stories.

Comrades from Tongguan County Cultural Center told us two stories like this.

The first story tells that decades ago, a young farmer took his son by train to other places to see a doctor. As a result, he met a cadre who was eating public food in the car. This cadre knew that the train would take a long time.

Before getting in the car, I bought some meat buns to eat on the road.

As a result, when he was eating, he saw the farmer's son staring at him and swallowing his saliva. So, the cadre wanted to treat the farmer's son to a meal.

When the farmers saw this, they quickly declined.

In fact, it’s not that farmers don’t want to eat it, nor that they can’t afford it. At that time, a meat bun only cost 20 cents, but farmers knew that the dozens of yuan they had were for their son’s medical treatment, and they didn’t dare to spend a penny more, so

I can only let my son endure it until he is cured and goes home.

Later, my son recovered from his illness and gradually grew up, but every time he mentioned the meat buns, he would think of it, and he would unconsciously buy two more meat buns and take them back to his father to eat.

The second story is about this comrade from the cultural center.

He told us that when he was a child, his family's conditions were not good, so every time his grandma went to the street to buy a meat bun, she would cut it into four parts with a knife, one for each of his brother, sister, himself and grandma.