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The origin of the four great foods in Edo! Why is the name of Pu-roasted eel related to cattail flower?

There are different opinions about the origin of the word Pu Shao. There are three main opinions in the Edo period. The first is the "birch burning theory" advocated by Kurokawa Daoyou: the roasted eel is very similar in color to birch bark ("Annals of Yongchuan Prefecture", enjoying the first year); The second is the "Fragrant Disease Theory 32" advocated by Shandong Jingchuan, Koyamada and Qing: the aroma overflows when it is baked (Gu Dong Ji, eleven years of culture, 1814; Notes on Matsuya, the last year of culture-the second year of Honghua, 1818-1845); The third is cattail flower theory. Analysis of historical documents, the last statement is more likely.

Thirty-two translation notes: Xiang disease is pronounced the same as Pu Shao.

The word "Pu Shao" first appeared in the cookbook "Da Cao Jia Cuisine Book" (at the end of Muromachi period, it was 136-1573): "It means Uji Maruko Pu Shao. The whole eel is roasted and cut into pieces. The sauce is soy sauce and wine or mountain pepper miso. " Uji Maru refers to eels in Ujigawa.

The whole eel is barbecued vertically with bamboo sticks, which looks like the flower shape and color of cattail, so it is called "Pushao". This is the third kind of cattail flower. In his book Textual Research on Modern Things (1848, the fifth year of Honghua), Hisashi advocated cattail flowers, saying, "The contemporary way of cutting eels open for barbecue is called Pushao, which is far from the previous practice.

In the past, the whole eel was vertically penetrated with bamboo sticks and barbecued with salt. Shaped like cattail flowers growing by the river, it got its name. Contemporary practice began recently. Although the shape of the current practice does not match the name, it still uses the old name.

In his book "The Afterglow of Brandon" (in the fourth year of Honghua, 1847), Hiroshi Saito also advocated that cattail flowers should be said: "In the past, Pushao was barbecued with bamboo sticks from the fish mouth to the fish tail, which was similar to cattail flowers, hence the name. Nowadays, Pu Shao is not like cattail flowers at all, but like the sleeves of armor. The book also tries to show that the shape of Pu Shao changes with the times.

in the edo period, the practice of pu-Shao changed to cut open the back or abdomen of eels and insert bamboo sticks for barbecue. Although the shape is quite different, the name of Pu Shao has been passed down.