If you ask a citizen of Quzhou what is the famous food that best represents Quzhou, many people will tell you that it is "three heads and one palm" (rabbit head, duck head, fish head and duck palm). In Quzhou, "three heads and one palm" is an indispensable food, whether it is a high-end hotel or a street stall. At the Zhejiang Agricultural Fair not long ago, Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" all sold well. It can be said that-

Local snacks's "flag"

In the past, ordinary people bought leftovers to satisfy their desires, and now it has become a "flag" in local snacks.

Every afternoon 1 30, Lv Shuixiang's small restaurant on Rende Road will be slightly empty. At this time, all she has to do is to pickle the rabbit head, duck head and duck feet that will be used at night and the next day. "Pickling takes about 3 hours. These things are found in almost every hotel, and many guests come to' three heads and one palm'. " 12 14 in the afternoon, she told the reporter while watching the marinated duck head in stainless steel pot. As soon as the lid was opened, a strong pot-stewed aroma came to the nose. "When making duck heads and rabbit heads, we should pay attention to ingredients, including fennel, orange peel, pepper, cinnamon, yellow wine and other good accessories, and the fish head should be stewed in' stock' for a long time. The practice of fish head is a bit different, usually chopped pepper or braised. " Lu Shuixiang said.

Lv Shuixiang's small restaurant is called "Daoxiang Food Stall", which has a history of 10 years. "Evening is the busiest time. When there are many, you can sell hundreds of duck heads a day. " Lv Shuixiang said that some guests even drove from Shanghai. During the Spring Festival, Quzhou people who work in other places and return home for the Spring Festival often crowded small restaurants.

Although the weather is a little cold, Lu Shuixiang still pickled these special snacks as usual, waiting for the arrival of guests. The mist from stainless steel pot bypassed the signboard in front of the store and brought the fragrance to the street. "The soup stock I used here has been used for 10 years. Every time there is less soup, I add some yellow wine, but I haven't changed the formula. As long as I can attract customers, I will not change this special taste. " Lu Shuixiang said.

Quzhou has more than 7,000 catering units. Walking on the streets of Qucheng, you will see scenes similar to Lv Shuixiang's shop in many small restaurants and food stalls. There is a stove in front of the door, and there is a big iron pot on it. Red peppers are floating on the water, and there are thick soup, rabbit heads, duck heads and duck feet in the pot. There are waves of unique and strong fragrance floating in the street.

How did the little-known "three heads and one palm" come step by step and become famous all over the world? Its origin is actually not glamorous, but because people's lives were tight at that time.

Since the 1950s, there has been a refrigeration plant specializing in killing rabbits in Shuangshuiqiao, Qucheng. Residents buy rabbit heads at a price of 3 cents per catty and burn them. After eating the rabbit's head, they dried the bones at a price of 7 cents per catty and sold them. The money from selling bones went to buy rabbit heads to eat. Therefore, the trend of eating rabbit heads in Quzhou is flourishing. "'three heads and one palm' is a unique element and symbol in Quzhou. Quzhou people's habit of eating' three heads and one palm' was formed from then on. First, there was a halogen rabbit head, and later there was a halogen product of duck head and duck feet. " Mao Xianlong, deputy general manager of Yizhi Food Co., Ltd. said.

With the improvement of people's living standards, food stalls and small restaurants on the streets of Qucheng gradually increased in the 1980s and 1990s, and "leftovers" originally bought by residents to cook at home began to become the main brand of supper.

Since the late 1990s, "three heads and one palm" have blossomed everywhere in Quzhou, and it has really "caught fire". On summer nights, the popularity of Qucheng food stalls is always stronger than that of hotels and restaurants. Order some side dishes, eat some rabbit heads and drink some cold beer. Customers come to these places just to enjoy the hearty feeling brought by "three heads and one palm".

With more and more people in Quzhou, Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" was taken outside to take root and sprout. Coupled with the life pressure of modern urbanites, there has been a trend of eating spicy food in the north and south of the Yangtze River, and "three heads and one palm" has also become popular in large and small cities through this trend of eating spicy food. Especially in Shanghai, Hangzhou, Ningbo, Wenzhou and other places with many people in Quzhou, hotels with Quzhou signs abound. Walking on the streets of Hangzhou, if you don't pay attention, you will meet a small restaurant opened by Quzhou people. Although the area is small, due to the supply of "three heads and one palm", it is often crowded with customers who come here.

There is neither the nobility of local cuisine nor the fashion of western-style catering here, but Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" has its own world. Nowadays, "Quzhou Rabbit Head" has been on an equal footing with famous products such as "Jinhua Ham" and "Jiaxing Wufangzhai Zongzi" and has been included in "Top Ten Famous Snacks in Zhejiang".

The ugly duckling becomes very beautiful.

On the basis of preserving the original flavor as much as possible, catering institutions and production enterprises in our city have made innovative articles on "three heads and one palm".

Once upon a time, "three heads and one palm" was just an "ugly duckling" on the table of ordinary people. With the development of catering industry, Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" has not only made a new leap in internal quality, but also become more elegant. Snacks, which were originally difficult to be elegant, have not only become special dishes for entertaining guests, but also become gifts that people can get when visiting relatives and friends.

The Oriental Hotel is frequented by many foreign guests who come to Quzhou. Mr. Zhang, the executive chef of the hotel, said: "In the Oriental Hotel,' three heads and one palm' is mainly ordered by foreign customers. In order to promote the special snacks in Quzhou, we combined the rabbit head, duck head and duck feet in the' three heads and one palm' to make a special dish called' Nankong Special Braised Three Pins'. "

At the same time, some restaurants and food enterprises with foresight and brand awareness began to build their own brands and develop packaging products.

Zhiyi was born in 1989, and began to burn "three heads and one palm" in the 1990s. Since 2003, "three heads and one palm" vacuum packaging has been introduced, which is convenient for customers to carry. Since 2008, "One Word Paper" has established its own production base and started to produce "three heads and one palm" single product packaging, gift box packaging and other products. "now, the output of' three heads and one palm' is about 15 tons per month, which is several times higher than the original. In addition to being sold all over the country, the products have also gone abroad and entered markets such as Japan, South Korea and Singapore. " Mao Xianlong said that at present, the scale of the company is still expanding, from a single "three heads and one palm" product to a variety of halogen products. At this year's Zhejiang Agricultural Expo, Quzhou Yizhizhi Food Co., Ltd. held a special investment promotion one day before the opening, and the sales in two hours reached more than 3,000 yuan. Just replenishing the goods several times shows the popularity of Quzhou's "three heads and one palm".

Starting from a food stall in Xinqiao Street, Zhang now has not only restaurants, but also packaged products that can enter the supermarket. "Last year, we registered a trademark and began to produce first-class foods such as rabbit head ducks. Now the products are sold in local supermarkets in Jinhua and Zhangzhou. " Zhang said to him.

This company, which originally focused on chicken products, solved the problem that fish heads are not easy to package. Last year, it began to combine "three heads and one palm" into a brand of "taking the head as the palm", and the specialty store can sell hundreds of gift boxes every week. "Our rabbit's head, duck's head and duck's feet have continued the traditional marinating process in Quzhou, and added 28 Chinese herbal medicines unique to the old gods." Zheng Huiwen, manager of the standardization department of the company, said that "three heads and one palm" are usually sold in the form of soup, and the company makes the packaged products closer to the taste in the production process. In the future, Bulao Shen plans to open specialty stores in major scenic spots in Quzhou, and gradually develop to other scenic spots.

Where is the road to "going out"?

Uneven quality and no unified brand identity are the bottlenecks for the further development of "three heads and one palm".

It is a good wish of Quzhou people that "three heads and one palm" can go to the whole country, but there are thousands of special snacks all over the country. In the face of fierce competitors, how should Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" break through?

At present, "three heads and one palm" is still very popular in Zhejiang Province, mainly cooking in small restaurants. Due to different hotel practices, there is no uniform logo. At the same time, this industry is also shoddy to some extent. Most of the raw materials of Quzhou rabbit head and duck head come from Shandong and other places, but the purchasing standards of each hotel are different, which leads to differences in the freshness of raw materials. These are the bottlenecks for the further development of the "three heads and one palm" industry. It is understood that although the ingredients of rabbit heads, duck heads and duck feet in various restaurants are similar, they are not consistent. There are more than a dozen exquisite dishes, only three or four of which are not very particular. Moreover, with the prevalence of eating "three heads and one palm" everywhere, the unfamiliar duck heads and feet in Quzhou have also joined the ranks.

Not only local people in Quzhou like to eat "three heads and one palm", but even foreigners in Hangzhou and other places also relish the "three heads and one palm" in Quzhou. Chu Yin Chun is a white-collar worker in a unit in Hangzhou. Although her hometown is Zhoushan, she especially likes to eat rabbit heads and duck heads in Quzhou. "I think Quzhou cuisine is very distinctive and very spicy. "Chu Yin Chun said that although there are many restaurants that cook Quzhou cuisine, most of them are small in scale and low in grade, each with its own signboard and no unified standard. "Like Shaxian snacks, although they are all small facades, the signs and color schemes used are the same. I think the hotel with' three heads and one palm' can unify the facade first. "

"Without a unified logo and a unified store design, the impression of' three heads and one palm' is really a bit confusing." Industry insiders suggest that "three heads and one palm" can refer to the storefront design of Shaxian Snacks, Lanzhou Lamian Noodles and other restaurants to display Quzhou culture in a unified way. "People know from dozens of meters away that this is a restaurant selling Quzhou's' three heads and one palm'."

Some insiders also said that every hotel and every enterprise should develop its own characteristics in order to start the brand of "three heads and one palm". Quzhou cuisine, located in the west of Zhejiang, has a fundamentally different flavor from some big cities. Quzhou's spicy is different from Sichuan spicy and Hunan spicy, spicy and warm, spicy and soft. The rabbit's head, duck's head and duck's feet in Quzhou have thus formed a fresh, fragrant and mellow feature. "Quzhou's' three heads and one palm' is famous for its unique taste. After years of development, the public taste has been formed, so don't change it easily." The executive chef of the Oriental Hotel said. "Because each chef uses different ingredients and cutting order, the' three heads and one palm' cooked has its own flavor. The formula of each enterprise is also different. Under the premise of ensuring similar quality and similar taste, it is not bad for hotels and enterprises to try to make some innovations. "

Many people think that "three heads and one palm" belongs to Quzhou, and only when everyone is innovating can this industry develop healthily. "Whether it is to unify the logo or develop its own characteristics, in short,' three heads and one palm' is the pride of Quzhou people, and everyone should cherish it. The food industry is a conscience project. Only when everyone pays attention to quality and has a long-term development vision can we make the' three heads and one palm' industry bigger and better. " Insiders said.

Economic Review: Learn from Shaxian people to be a brand.

No matter which city we go to, we can see Shaxian snacks. Its rich variety and unified store design left a deep impression on people. It is understood that more than 52,000 Shaxian people have opened more than 1.8 million stores in major cities across the country, which has become a major channel to solve the employment problem of Shaxian people.

How do Shaxian people make local snacks bloom everywhere? Many people think that Shaxian snack is a franchise chain restaurant, but in fact, the brand of Shaxian snack is applied by Shaxian government and can be used by everyone in the county, and each store is independent. 1997, Shaxian government took the lead in establishing Shaxian snack industry association and registered the graphic trademark of Shaxian snack service. 1999 Shaxian snack industry development service center was established to hold training courses with different skills and training contents, such as snack production, chain management knowledge and practical operation, so as to strengthen brand awareness from the aspects of business philosophy and health management. After training and assessment, employees can obtain the standard license and trademark plaque of Shaxian snack vendors. Shaxian snack enjoys a worldwide reputation with the model of "government guidance+unified brand+independent management".

At the same time, Shaxian also held the China Snack Tourism Culture Festival and founded Shaxian Snack Network, which not only publicized Shaxian snacks, but also publicized Shaxian's development achievements and tourism industry.

Shaxian's experience is worth learning from enterprises in Quzhou, which manage "three heads and one palm". Developing Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" industry can not only promote Quzhou snacks, but also be a good way to solve Quzhou people's employment.

The author believes that the establishment of "three heads and one palm" industrial association can play a role in this regard. For example, through the industrial association to develop "three heads and one palm" procurement and production standards, and training, so that customers in any city can taste the authentic taste of Quzhou; Another example is to design a logo that can be used by Quzhou catering institutions and production enterprises for free, so that the impression of "three heads and one palm" is more unified and stronger; Then, trade associations can coordinate trademark disputes. Before, unpleasant things happened in Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" industry because of trademark problems, and similar things can be solved through industry associations.

The strength of an industry is always greater than that of an enterprise. I hope that in the near future, "three heads and one palm" operators will no longer "fight alone"