Wen/Danshuiquan

After thousands of years of evolution and inheritance, Fuzhou's cuisine and techniques have formed unique features. Due to the influence of geographical environment and natural resources, Fuzhou people are good at cooking seafood. In addition to paying attention to the inherent taste of ingredients, it also emphasizes elegance and tenderness, and is good at seasoning with shrimp oil to refresh. I also prefer sweet and sour, regardless of mountain treasures and sea faults, I like to use bad food most. Therefore, if the salty shrimp oil is the key to Fuzhou taste, the mellow red distiller's grains are worthy of Fuzhou taste.

It has been established that people in Fuzhou eat what food and drink in what seasons and use what seasoning. The fried clams and the fried snails seem to be at that point in midsummer. Pickled fish must also rise and fall with the wind, and only the big silver carp that opens the pond after Laba can become the emphasis on hospitality during the Spring Festival.

In Fuzhou, an ordinary piece of fried bamboo shoots may be related to the story of Fang Xiang of the four families of Lin, Chen, Huang and Zheng in Fuzhou in the late Qing Dynasty. In Min 'an Village, Tingjiang, an old man's cart sells jelly and jelly, which is irreplaceable in the hearts of many Fuzhou people who go abroad to work hard. Not far from Wan Li, we should also take a few cans to a foreign country. For them, the smell of old wine and distiller's grains in the sauce is mixed with the umami taste of the cockroach, which is the taste of Fuzhou, their hometown. The fermented small intestine cooked by the Ministry of Water will make several friends who grew up in Fuzhou relish it. Wenru No.9' s famous dish, oily eel, is crispy and tender. In addition, eel is produced in Changle Meihua and Zhanggang villages near the sea, and its bones are soft and tender, so it often becomes a must-have dish for political and business banquets. Almost all the banquets in Fujian cuisine are indispensable to the light and bad snails and drunken chickens, as well as the sweet and sour litchi meat, which has become a classic symbol of Fujian culture.

These main dishes are famous for their surnames and positions. Besides, how many warm winter daydreams will be brought to people in the cold wind by the unpretentious bad soup mutton offal hot pot and a pot of home-brewed old red wine. The light cake just baked outside Qingcheng Temple and the pork belly slices in red distiller's grains are sandwiched inside. I thought this was the Chu Qiao of Chinese hamburger in the world.

For Fuzhou people, red koji is not only a unique memory of taste buds, but also indicates the arrival of winter. Fuzhou people have the custom of brewing green wine at home. Around the winter solstice, the temperature turns cold, which is the best time to make wine. After 5 days of fermentation, it can be taken out to entertain relatives and friends during the Spring Festival. So green wine is also called spring wine.

The green red wine made from the first-class glutinous rice and red kojic rice in eastern Fujian is crystal red and green, full-bodied, with a long aftertaste, and the wine is very strong. Zhou Lianggong's "Min Xiao Ji" contains jade belt spring, Xishihong, Zhuangyuanhong and Bixia wine. It refers to the green wine in Fuzhou. After drinking green wine in Guling, Fuzhou, Yu Dafu praised green wine in his "Dripping in Fujian": "The color of wine is as red as peach juice; The bad things floating on the surface, one by one, are more like the beauty of rouge on the beauty's face. ..... After tasting a few mouthfuls, I feel that this sweet wine made of red distiller's grains is really a unique fresh and sweet wine in the world, with the taste of champagne and no Shaoxing. "

When new wine is opened, it needs to be drained. The distiller's grains deposited at the bottom of the jar are dark red in color and have a strange mixed flavor. This kind of fragrance has both wine fragrance and appetizing appetite fragrance, which is hard to describe. Fuzhou people call it bad fragrance. This kind of distiller's grains is called red distiller's grains because of its ruddy color. The red distiller's grains used in Fujian cuisine is the precipitation essence of this home-brewed green wine.

red distiller's grains are bright and fragrant. Used in the production of dishes, the wine is fragrant and memorable. In Fuzhou, there are many kinds of bad methods, such as fermented grains, fermented grains, fried grains, fermented grains, drunk grains, etc. Using red grains to make a meal is like applying bright rouge to a dish, and a glance is enough to stimulate people's appetite. It is a must in Fujian. These different cooking techniques have the functions of preserving corrosion, removing fishy smell, enhancing fragrance, adding color, appetizing and invigorating spleen, which constitute the unique flavor of Fuzhou cuisine. And this kind of food culture also affects the surrounding cities, and even in the shadow of Taiwanese food, there is still no lack of the charm of Fujian.

The red fermented glutinous rice meat that came to Taiwan Province with Fuzhou origin is the closest to the original appearance of Fuzhou made by Taiwan Province Hakkas. They call red fermented grains meat "bad mother's meat", which is mostly made in late December of the lunar calendar to worship the gods and ancestors. It is a traditional new year's dish of Hakka people. Hakka's red distiller's grains must be cooked meat, first coated with salt, then marinated in red distiller's grains for a week, and then wrapped in powder and fried. On top of the rich bouquet, it adds a bit of fried crispy flavor. There is also a special snack called red wine meatballs. Sweet and sour glutinous rice flour is covered with diced pork belly marinated in red wine grains and chopped winter bamboo shoots and mushrooms. Deep-fry in a hot oil pan until golden brown, and then soak in soup to eat. The taste is soft, waxy and elastic, sweet and sour, and slightly salty. It is also the favorite of eat drink man woman, Taiwan Province.

Food is the most important thing for people, and knowing how to eat is the greatest respect for life. Eating all over the country, every nation and every place has its own unique diet skills. In the early 198s, a light and bad piece of fragrant snail, which was presided over by Fujian cuisine master Qiangmugen and Qiangququ, not only entered the State Banquet Hall in the Great Hall of the People, but also hosted President Reagan of the United States and Prince Sihanouk of Cambodia. I also won the Golden Cup and the Grand Prize in the National Cooking Competition. Fried eel and litchi meat have also gone abroad and spread to Southeast Asia, America, Australia, Canada and other parts of the world. Nowadays, local dishes all over the country have become a return to nature after people are tired of eating big dishes. There's a certain frankness after Qian Shan walked by.

beginning of spring, who has been to a spring wine with the theme of bad fragrance, is really exciting. The chef of Juchunyuan is cooking. I heard that the ingredients alone have been prepared for many days. Looking back now, the tender and smooth yellow croaker is precious, but the drunken duck slices are the most wonderful cold meat. According to the owner's introduction, the bought duck should be fed with distiller's grains for a week. After being cleaned and dried, the boneless breast and leg meat should be slightly marinated with Moutai, fried on both sides, cooled and soaked in good bad oil to taste. The finished product has a red appearance, crisp skin and tight meat, and the mellow flavor of wine and duck meat are integrated. Su Dongpo must have eaten it before he got the poem "Red wine sour into duck, sweet with wine".

It's really the chef's skill in Juchunyuan. Three-silk mixed bad chicken has shown the subtlety of the knife work and the essence of bad health. The frog is also delicious when braised, and the double crispy fried chicken is even brighter. Drunk banana beetle, roasted laver, bad duck gizzard, mixed jellyfish, and four cold dishes are wonderful in color. The quantity is not much, but it is fine, so it can't be chewed, so we have to taste it carefully. If you like, you can also dip in some purplish sauce, and the humble cold dishes will instantly become a landscape with complete colors and flavors. I won't say much about the beauty of catchy words. It seems that every eater praised them at that time. Even if it's the home-cooked seafood with bamboo spatula, it's also cooked up, as recorded in "Ode to bad spatula", "The golden knife cuts into the frosty sky, and the more it is lined with spring fiber, the thinner it is. Hold out the artistic conception of "red wine first wants to slip away, Xiaoji is speechless and gluttonous, and she is called" smelling with plum ".

The famous "bad sheep" is said to be famous in Taiwan Province, but the family management in Fuzhou is actually more elaborate. The mutton is bought directly from Fuqing Gaoshan. Radish pieces of hob, and lettuce pieces, white is white and green is green, mutton is red and fermented, big casserole is steaming and served on the table, and speakers not far behind casually walk the aria of Fujian opera "Dream in the Garden", as if suddenly pushing the spring banquet to the depth of field of the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China. What's more, there is a clear offering of Chimonanthus praecox from Linyang Temple in the north peak, which is slightly fragrant, and unconsciously makes people feel that the casserole in this ancient house in Fujian is elegant and vulgar, carefree and accessible.

I have tasted the product of Master Qiang Zhentao in Chunhua Restaurant, but there was nothing special about it that day. It was delicious only because of exquisite knife skills and stir-fried heat. However, the chef's skills are hidden in the minimalist vegetables, and a winter bamboo shoot and water bamboo stewed in chicken oil show the terrible mystery; One side of the water and soil, the other side seems to be the most visible clue in diet.

A wonderful spring wine mainly depends on the skill of the master of Fujian cuisine and the high-quality authentic ingredients. But because of the high price, it can only be "high and low". I think a good food culture should develop in addition to precipitation. You must study culture with an attitude that others don't understand and you don't really understand, so as not to lead to the decline of cultural inheritance. From this, it is associated with Fuzhou cuisine. Although seafood cuisine is Fuzhou's strong point, there are also many well-known home-cooked dishes with easy-to-get raw materials, such as litchi meat, drunken spareribs and pale eel. As long as the drama of culture is sung in place, it is not difficult to push them to the whole country.

Unfortunately, today's streets in Fuzhou are full of Cantonese food and Sichuan food. Watching young people speak mandarin with shrimp oil flavor, eating chopped pepper fish head and spicy hot pot well. I often complain to my friends in Fuzhou catering industry that it is difficult to eat really good Fuzhou food. Like the "Buddha jumps over the wall", the old Fuzhou people probably need to ask a question mark whether they eat or not on weekdays, and the bad fish and bad meat that every family must treat during the Spring Festival and the New Year don't have to blindly pursue sweet and sour, and add a little spicy. -at least let the bad fragrance in Fujian come more warmly!