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Shop exploration: What is Guo Jiacai in Degang Guo?

When eating out, there are not many restaurants run by celebrities. For one thing, it's long past idolize's age, and for another, it's disappointing to have been to one or two restaurants before. Whether it's management or food, it's quite satisfactory at best. If it's really objective, it won't happen again. Opening a restaurant also needs to be fun. It is really not enough to have money. Of course, those who are not afraid of losing money are another matter. But Degang Guo is different. It should be natural for him to open a restaurant. Just kidding, there are "pots" and "jars" in the name. If he doesn't open a restaurant, who will? Frankly speaking, listening to some of his cross talk jokes is very professional when it comes to eating. I once chatted with the chef of a hotel, and he said, Is Degang Guo a cook before? Why do some people know more than professional chefs? It's not known whether Degang Guo was a chef or not, but the restaurant he opened is really there. The restaurant is named Guo Jiacai, which is quite a bit of a "private kitchen". Where is the "Guo Jiacai"? I think many "Gangsi" can be found with their eyes closed, just opposite the Yaxiu clothing market in Sanlitun Gongti North Road, a white single-family building. The ugly scarlet letter on the gold background of Deyun Society is clear at a glance. A wooden tablet with the words "Guo Jiacai" written on it is on a Chinese-style beam. The words "Guo Jiacai" were inscribed by Degang Guo himself, and it does have his own style, horizontal and vertical, honest and simple. Although "Guo Jiacai" and Deyunshe Theater are located on the same floor, Degang Guo insists that there is no such thing as "giving tickets for meals and tickets for the theatre". "Eating is eating, so you should buy tickets for cross talk in a down-to-earth manner, no matter how big you are, you will not break this rule". "Guo Jiacai" has an overall area of more than 3, square meters, which is suitable for performance, dining and clothing (Deyun Huafu). When you open the curtain of cotton cloth, the feeling inside is very Degang Guo. You enter the front hall, with blue brick floors, wooden beams and four patios, and the traditional decorations complement each other. The exhibition and sales area of Deyun Huafu is on the left and right, and the gilded statue of Guan Yu is enshrined in the middle of the front hall, with corridors on the left and right. The left hand goes upstairs to the Sanlitun Sub-Theater of Deyun Society, and the right hand turns left to be Guo Jiacai Restaurant. Accurately speaking, "Guo Jiacai" is on the side of the first floor of the new drama building of Deyun Society. The old Beijing mood at the door separates the feeling of entering the door from the noise outside, and the heart suddenly quietens down. In addition to the scattered seats in the hall, there are 14 ordinary private rooms and 2 luxury rooms around the restaurant. The luxury rooms are suites with high-end furniture in the old Beijing style. All the private rooms are named after famous cross talk jokes, which is very interesting. If you hear the waiter say, "Spitting Lotus" serves food and so on, don't hide. That's not to spit at you before serving you food. When you book that private room, your code name will become "Spitting Lotus". Eating here can be said that humor is everywhere, so you can think about it. It is worth mentioning that the bathroom is also quite creative. The washbasin of bluestone is paved with blue bricks, which is antique and antique. The door of the bathroom is also thoughtful. There is no writing about men and women or pipe high heels, but two Peking Opera villains, a niche and a Hua Dan in Tsing Yi, are still traditionally posted. They don't have a basic knowledge of opera, so they have to recognize it for a while before they dare to take their legs. Hehe, it is considered to popularize Peking Opera culture. Putting the dishes shared with family on the table for more people to share, presumably, is one of the original intentions of Degang Guo to open a restaurant. This point was confirmed by Rao Jianhua, the chef of Guo Jiacai. The signature dishes seen on the menu of "Guo Jiacai", such as Guo Jia's throwing meatballs, home-boiled mullet, rotten fish and rotten shrimp, and Shi Niang's noodles with gravy, are mostly cooked by Degang Guo himself. According to Degang Guo's own words, this "Guo Jiacai" is the dish that he likes to eat and cook at home at ordinary times. "I have accumulated one or two hundred dishes, so I think this can be shared. On this basis, I added some Tianjin dishes and Shandong dishes, which are the main cuisines of the so-called" Guo Jiacai ". Considering the surrounding environment of Sanlitun, in order to attract the taste of those who wear suits and ties, Cantonese cuisine has been added. Because Mrs. Degang Guo is a Muslim, Muslim cuisine also occupies a certain proportion here. From this perspective, the name of the restaurant is absolutely deserved. In addition, some dishes are extremely traditional and even on the verge of extinction, which were developed by Degang Guo and his team of chefs. This is the same as his aim of crosstalk-no matter how innovative, what our ancestors left behind cannot be lost. For such a truly private dish, I am particularly curious about the chef. The chef must get the essence of the Guo cuisine, or at least be a relative of the Guo family. Actually, my guess is wrong. The chef is not only not a relative of Degang Guo, but even has no family name with him. This naturally involves a problem. In the past, I often talked about this problem when chatting with many chefs. That is, the boss often influenced the chefs if he didn't understand it. Sometimes, with the "participation" of the boss, the dishes that he was good at didn't know what to do. I'm lucky to catch up with the monthly photo archive of innovative dishes here. The chef and photographer are exchanging the shooting angles of dishes, so I also try to find out. If people ignore me, I'll withdraw, and I won't lose anything. Perhaps the above three dishes will be written into the menu in the future? Chef Rao Jianhua is very easy-going. He not only invited me to sit down, but even asked me to give advice and suggestions for new dishes, which made me a little embarrassed. However, it is just what I want, and I can have a deeper understanding of "Guo Jiacai". Rao Chu said that Degang Guo really understands cooking, and his opinions and suggestions are definitely "gourmet" level, but he will not interfere with the chef's work, and every dish here is developed by Degang Guo together with him. Some dishes are handed down from Degang Guo's family, others are my suggestions, but what was finally decided was that Degang Guo thought it could be fully integrated with the concept of "Guo Jiacai". Before the opening of "Guo Jiacai", the chef was selected for more than three months. Rao Chu said that he was attracted by Degang Guo not only because he was from Tianjin, but also because he had been making efforts to preserve and maintain traditional dishes. Although creative dishes are very popular now, many chefs have almost lost their traditions while innovating. This is what Degang Guo also deplores. Rao Chu said that tradition must not be lost, and tradition is fundamental. It can be said that at present, many restaurants take creativity and creativity as their business philosophy, so our traditional dishes are virtually an "innovation" in the end. Others can't cook traditional dishes, and they all discard them. Instead, we are the latest and most fashionable. However, Rao Chu also said that innovation is also the inevitable law of the development of the catering industry. He and Degang Guo have a * * * knowledge, that is, they can't do without innovation, but no matter how they innovate, they must be based on tradition and inheritance, which will never compromise. Just like there is a dish with a high click-through rate, which is called "black and white dishes". Whether it is the name of the dish or the collocation of ingredients, it is very innovative. The black one is Monopterus albus, and the white gambling is yellow throat, but the cooking method we use is the most traditional one. After the launch, diners gave a high evaluation. Speaking of the names of dishes, Rao Chu said that he admired Degang Guo very much. Most of the dishes in the menu were named by Degang Guo, such as "black and white dishes" mentioned just now, as well as "Guo Jia throwing meatballs", "black and white dishes", "private twisted fish", "Guo Jia Wang Wang Ball", "rich eel roll", "life-saving dishes", "three treasures of plum blossom" and "wealth". Black and white imperial edicts to Guo Guwang Wangqiu are always difficult for everyone to eat, but Degang Guo has a saying that he has a sharp mouth. If he thinks delicious food, a group of people should have no problem. However, for his own restaurant, it sounds a bit boastful, but I think Mr. Guo's words are quite reliable. It seems that I'm a little suspicious of "trusting". It doesn't matter. Whether it's delicious or not, it's up to the eater after all. If you want to know the taste of pears, you have to taste them yourself. Just like I asked chef Rao, what's the best food here? He said it's all delicious. Hehe, what should I do? Let's order two dishes and try them yourself. The Guo family threw meatballs to "Guo Jiacai", and "Guo family threw meatballs" can't be ignored. This dish was developed by Guo Degang himself, and the inspiration is said to come from Tianjin's old "three cares" (similar to Beijing's old Tianqiao area). In the old days, many restaurants there had this dish, but the meatballs were all small meatballs, and the "Guo's wrestling meatballs" weighed a catty, which was definitely enough to serve you. The most amazing thing is the practice. The meatballs are not made of meat stuffing, but 1% pure pork belly. Just think about it. It is still difficult to beat meatballs with meat stuffing, and this pork belly is even more difficult. Chef Rao said that this dish is pork belly except seasoning, and there is absolutely no other ingredients to help it. What is needed is craftsmanship and kung fu. Every day, two chefs throw balls for at least one and a half hours, plus frying and simmering. It is impossible without five hours. If you hear the sound of "ping-pong" coming from the back kitchen during the meal, don't think that the cooks are fighting, they are throwing meatballs! According to the waiter, this dish is almost a must for every table. As for the taste, as far as I'm concerned, it's fat but not greasy, slippery and slightly elastic, which is a bit like rice flour meat, but not completely. To sum up, it's four words: soft, waxy and smooth, really good. The dish of private twist fish should also belong to the category of kung fu dishes. If I don't tell you that it is made of fish, you will definitely think that it is an authentic twist. The reason why it is called fish with twist is that this dish is made of fresh mandarin fish, which is scaled, peeled, boned and pricked, cut into strips, marinated, dipped in sesame seeds, braided into the shape of twist, fried and watered. This dish is delicious with fresh fish, rich sweet and sour taste, and the fragrance of sesame seeds. Well, it is a classic. Teacher Niang's noodles with gravy Guo Degang's wife Wang Hui makes noodles with gravy, which is a must. Degang Guo's disciples don't like it, which is also the origin of the dish. The reason why I call this staple food a dish is that it is not only noodles with gravy in a sense, but also eight cold dishes and at least four hot dishes, besides the marinade cooked with yellow flowers, fungus, mushrooms, eggs and other ingredients. The hot dishes include sweet and sour gluten silk made of sugar gluten, yellow vegetables (scrambled eggs), dried fried pork and green fried shrimp. Noodles are shredded cucumber, shredded laver, mung bean sprouts, vermicelli, shredded carrot, shredded cabbage and green soybean. It's really complete. Chef Rao reminds me that this noodle is enough for 4-6 people. If two or three people come, it's not recommended to order it. Let's eat the master Zhajiang Noodles. After listening to me, would you like to eat in such a restaurant? Or are you willing to eat? Or are you willing to eat ...