Poetry culture and diet culture are the most famous representatives of China's Millennium farming civilization. I don't know if you think that poetry also contains the pursuit of food that continues in the blood of Chinese people-it's not my fault to eat food, it's already written down in the gene.

In 215, Sun Shijia of shaanxi university of technology College of Literature published a paper focusing on the relationship between New Year's Eve poetry and food culture in the Song Dynasty. Here are some excerpts to share with you.

Dream of China in Tokyo, written by Meng Yuanlao in the Northern Song Dynasty for more than 2 years, vividly describes the details of understanding the prosperity and luxury of Tokyo city and citizens' life in the late Northern Song Dynasty. In the preface, it is said that "the treasures of the four seas are all returned to the market; The peculiar smell in the Huihuan area is noted in the kitchen. " The general idea is that at that time, in the capital of the Northern Song Dynasty, there were all kinds of ingredients of delicacies and seafood, and the chefs who could cook all kinds of dishes were also skilled and could make you a taste. Therefore, this book has been renamed by the current "gourmets", called "Eating in Kaifeng".

The custom of New Year's Eve in the Song Dynasty was much more grand and enthusiastic than it is now. Eating is no exception. According to Mr. Cai Zhenchu's statistics in the book A Study of Song Ci Culture, "There are 31 New Year's Eve words in Song Ci, including more than 2 New Year's Eve food words". Two-thirds of them are talking about eating, and my country of eating goods really deserves its reputation. So, what exactly are the "special diets" on New Year's Eve in the Song Dynasty?

1. Xin Pan

The so-called "Xin Pan" refers to spicy food, which was recorded as early as the Warring States period. Xin Pan, also known as "Five Xin Pan". There is a record of "Five Incentives" in the Chronicle of Jingchu Years Old written by Liang Zonggu in the Southern Dynasties:

The first day of the first month is the day of three yuan. So the young and the old, knowing that they are dressed, pay homage to each other, drink pepper and cypress wine, drink peach soup, drink Tu Su wine, glue teeth, put five spicy dishes, apply them to powder, take ghost pills, and each take a chicken egg.

The five spices here refer to five kinds of food, namely garlic, small garlic, leek, Yuntai and coriander, which are mixed and eaten, and have the meaning of saying goodbye to the old and welcoming the new, so they are called five spice dishes.

2. night snack Fruit

The word "night snack Fruit" first appeared in the Southern Song Dynasty and appeared in the works of poets in the Southern Song Dynasty many times. Such as Yong Xue's "Jade Case"? Shou sui ". Word cloud:

a plate of night snack Jiangnan fruit. Eat fruit and read, just sit still. Sin plum blossoms take care of me. One year's worries, half a year's imprisonment, all to tonight.

I am a mountain man. It's a pity to come out of the mountain. Hand-planted pine should be big. It's next year when I'm tied to the depths of Mao and go home with my piano.

according to the records in the old story of Wulin in the song dynasty, there were fine fruits, seasonal fruits, candied fruit, fried sugar and market food, such as ten kinds of sugar, fine sand dumplings, jujube cakes, crispy abalone, crispy market cakes, sugar-fried chestnuts, ginkgo and other exquisite snacks.

-all high-calorie sweets! The ancients were not afraid of getting fat after supper. What are we afraid of? Foodies, let's go!

3. Jiaobai liquor

Jiaobai liquor is the combined name of Jiaobai liquor and Baijiu, which mainly refers to Jiaojiu, that is, the liquor made by soaking peppers. Because the liquor is also called pulp, it is called Jiaojiu as pepper pulp. In ancient times, it was often used to offer sacrifices to ancestors or to parents to express the meaning of birthday and congratulations. Li Chuquan's Nanxiangzi? Do it again in addition to the night. Word cloud:

Harmony is spring. It's been a cold day. Time flies, people are getting old, and China is jumping. Being cold in the gallbladder lasts longer and never sleeps. Save things and reflect peppers. Baijiu fragrant floating white jade boat. I urge everyone to wish each other well. I hope this year is better than last year.

This word is Li Chuquan's work on New Year's Eve, in which "saving things reflects the pepper dish". "Bai wine smells like floating white jade boat" shows that it was a universal custom to drink pepper and cypress wine on New Year's Eve.

4. Tu Su wine

On New Year's Eve, there is a custom of drinking Tu Su wine besides pepper and cypress wine. In the Song Dynasty, Chen Yuanliang's "Guang Ji at the Age of Years" quoted five clouds from "Hua Ji Li at the Age of Years":

It is said that those who slaughtered the Soviet Union were also named as grass temples. Once upon a time, there was a hermitage, and on every New Year's Eve, there was a note of medicine left in it, so that the capsule was immersed in the well, and on the Yuan day, the water was placed in a wine bottle, and the family drank it, so that it was not sick of the plague. Today, people have a good prescription and don't know their names, but it is called Tu Su.

In ancient times, people had the custom of drinking Tu Su wine at the end of the year, not only to make fun of the wine, but also to ward off evil spirits and prevent diseases. Due to the limited medical conditions at that time, people were afraid of the plague, so the custom of drinking Tu Su wine spread rapidly.

Diet and culture

Since ancient times, people have not only increased the variety and quality of holiday food, but also started to pursue spiritual enjoyment beyond diet. "This kind of spiritual enjoyment means that diet has been endowed with aesthetics, humanities, philosophy, moral cultivation and other connotations.

In all kinds of diets introduced above, Jiaobai wine has the purpose of prolonging life and celebrating birthday, and Tu Su wine has the meaning of curing diseases and praying for blessings, offering wine fruit for the six gods and praying for their protection, etc., which reflects the deep cultural connotation of diet in Song Dynasty's New Year's Eve words.

The diet on New Year's Eve reflects the psychology of Song Renzhen's love for life, belief in ancestors and yearning for a better life. At the same time, the eating activities on New Year's Eve also provide a good stage for emotional communication between family members or friends, and enhance their feelings. This is also the cultural accumulation of the working people in China.