■ Historical and cultural background
■ Nanluoguxiang: the well-preserved "Jasper" in the ancient capital Beijing.
Nanluoguxiang runs north and south, about 800 meters long, and there are eight hutongs in the east and west. From south to north, the eight hutongs in the west are Fuxiang Hutong, Suoyi Hutong, Yuer Hutong, Maoer Hutong, Jingyang Hutong, Shajing Hutong, Heizhima Hutong and Qianguyuan Hutong. The eight hutongs in the east are Fried Bean Hutong, Banchang Hutong, Donghuamian Hutong, Beibingmu Hutong, Qinlao Hutong, Qianyuan Ensi Hutong, Houyuan Ensi Hutong and Juer Hutong. These hutongs had no names in the Yuan Dynasty, but their names gradually evolved after the Ming Dynasty. For example, Ju 'er Hutong was called Ju 'er Hutong in Ming Dynasty, and was later renamed clementi Musician Hutong. When Xuan Tong was founded in the Qing Dynasty, it was called Ju 'er Hutong, which has continued to this day. The whole block is like a big centipede, so it is also called centipede street.
Li Fang is the basic unit of ancient residential area organization and urban planning and construction in China. In the pre-Qin period, it was called "ceremony", "law" or "legal ceremony". From the Northern Wei Dynasty, the name "Fang" appeared. Chang 'an City in Tang Dynasty was the largest city in the world at that time, with 108 squares. In the planning and design of the Yuan Dynasty, the Li Fang system was still continued. The whole city is divided into 50 squares with wide and straight streets between them, just like a chessboard.
During the Ming Dynasty, Beijing was divided into 28 squares, and the two squares were merged into "Zhao Hui Gong Jing Square". The Qing Dynasty was a yellow flag. Nanluoguxiang was once called Luoguo Lane, and the whole map drawn by Qianlong 15( 1750) was renamed Nanluoguxiang.
At present, the north of Nanluoguxiang plot is Gulou East Street, the south is Di 'anmen East Street, the west is Di 'anmenwai Street, and the east is Jiaokou South Street. The rectangular plot surrounded by these four streets is exactly the two squares in the Yuan Dynasty. It is bounded by Nanluoguxiang and "Zhao Huifang" in the east. Gong Jing Square is in the west, and Nanluoguxiang is the boundary lane between the two squares.
The Li Fang in Chang 'an in Tang Dynasty has long since disappeared, and the Li Fang structure in Yuan Dynasty has been unrecognizable in more than 800 years of historical changes. However, Nanluoguxiang area still preserves the historical relics of Li Fang in Yuan Dynasty. The pattern of hutong is so complete that all kinds of luxury houses and houses in hutong are colorful. It is indeed a well-preserved "Jasper" in the style of Beijing's ancient capital.
In the hot summer in Beijing, on a rare cool afternoon with drizzle, I came to Nanluoguxiang again. Nanluoguxiang has attracted the attention of fashionistas and foreign tourists in recent years, because since the new century, many bars have inadvertently appeared in this ancient small street. Now it has become another bar street in Beijing after Sanlitun and Shichahai.
Some people say that Sanlitun Bar Street is colored, Shichahai Bar Street is dark red and Nanluoguxiang Bar Street is emerald green. Such comments may not only refer to the colors of nature, but also point out its different cultural connotations. Every hutong here is rich in cultural accumulation, and every house is telling an ancient story.
■ Sengelinqin Wang Fu, across the Hutong of Fried Bean Board Factory.
The first alley east of the south exit of Nanluoguxiang is Fried Bean Hutong. Next to Gate 77, not far from the west entrance of Chaodou Hutong, there is a sign of key cultural relics protection units in Dongcheng District, which reads "Heshang Palace". Heshang Palace is the palace of monks in Qing Dynasty. Sanggelinqin is the Horqin Banner of Mongolia. 1825 captured the king of Horqin county, and 1855 crowned the prince. He can be good at fighting, but he is a man with mixed reputation in history. 1859 participated in the Dagu naval battle and defeated the British and French allied forces. 1863 was ordered to suppress the nian army in Shandong, Henan, Anhui and other places. 1In May, 865, he led his troops and was killed in a fierce battle between Cao Zhou and Nian Army. After his death, his son Bo Yan Nomo inherited the title of Prince Jue, so the old residents in this area also called this mansion "Bo Wang Fu". Wang Bo, a former imperial physician, was a "teacher" of Guangxu and taught Guangxu to ride horses and shoot.
The original Monk Palace was huge, with the front door in Fried Bean Hutong and the back door in Banchang Hutong, spanning two hutongs. Wang Fu is divided into three roads, namely Middle Road, East Road and West Road, and each road has four entrances. Among them, in addition to the main courtyard, there are four entrances to the East Courtyard on the East Road, forming a large building complex.
After the Republic of China, this mansion was gradually auctioned by the descendants of the prince and divided into many courtyards. The existing Fried Bean Hutong No.71No.77 (odd number) and Banchang Hutong No.30-34 (even number) are all within the original scope of Wang Fu.
The west entrance of Chaodou Hutong is the ancestral hall of the Sengqin family and a large group of buildings. The ancestral temple and the palace were built in an alley, which was rare in the Qing Dynasty. It has been converted into "Green Pine Garden Hotel". It is rare to find such a quiet and antique quadrangle hotel in a beautiful and elegant place.
■ The Central Academy of Drama was originally the former residence of the army commander-in-chief and acting prime minister Jin during the period of the government.
Go north along Nanluoguxiang, and the third alley in the east is Donghuamian Hutong. Not far from the entrance is the famous Central Academy of Drama. As the top learning stage and film and television performance institution in China, its area is really small. Including the experimental theater, it only occupies a part between Donghuamian Hutong and Beimilisi Hutong. But the temple is not big, and God is spiritual. Here, generations of China drama and film stars have been trained. Chen, Chen, Jiang Wen, Gong Li and Zhang Ziyi all studied and lived here.
This used to be Kim's old house. Jin (1877- 195 1) graduated from Beiyang Military Equipment School in his early years and worked as a staff officer of the Qing army in Yunnan 19 town. Later, he was trusted by Yuan Shikai and served as the governor of Shandong. After 19 19, he served as the chief of the army and acting prime minister of the Duan government.
After Jin bought this place, he demolished some quadrangles and built several western-style buildings. 192 1 At the end of the year, Jin resigned and lived in Tianjin for a long time. In the 1960s, there were still several old buildings in the courtyard, which were later used as office buildings and dormitories for single teachers. After another 40 years, all the old buildings were demolished, and there was no trace of the Kim family.
■ Qi Baishi, a master of Chinese painting, once lived in Yuer Hutong, which was once the private residence of a general minister in the Qing internal affairs office.
To the west of Donghuamian Hutong is Yuer Hutong, where Qi Baishi, a master of Chinese painting, once lived. Not far from the hutong, the sign of "Beijing Artists Association" is hung beside the gate of North Road 13. The gate is open, and on the left is the reception room. A middle-aged man greeted him. As usual, he asked me who I was looking for, and I explained that I wanted to see the former residence of Qi Baishi. This gentleman is even better than the waiter at the old cadre activity station. He said this is a unit and should not be visited, but you have come a long way, so let's have a brief look.
The yard is spacious and well protected. There is a big fish tank in the middle of the yard. There is no repainting here, revealing the original taste of the old house door. While watching, this gentleman also told me. He said that this was once the private residence of a minister in the Qing Dynasty. Because the materials of the palace were used privately in the construction process, the organizational system exceeded the level, so it was disintegrated and the house was sold in several parts. 13 hospital is only a part. After liberation, the Ministry of Culture bought it and Mr. Qi Baishi lived in it. However, the old man moved there soon after living in the cross-car alley in Xicheng, so now the former residence of Qi Baishi mostly refers to the cross-car alley.
■ Noble Maoer Hutong
Out of Yuer Hutong, follow Nanluoguxiang and continue to go north. Luxi is a cat alley.
I have seen a few backpackers in several hutongs in the south, but the number is small, unlike some reports. I think it may be raining these days, and Nanluoguxiang is building roads. The road is uneven and muddy, which makes it impossible for travelers to walk. But as soon as I turned into Maoer Hutong, I found myself wrong. The crowd in Maoer Hutong is bustling and very lively. Dozens of "Hutong Tour" tricycles are parked next to Hutong. A wave of foreign tourists are either listening to the tour guide's explanation, or watching and taking pictures with the flag, all of them are very focused and interested.
Keyuan: The residence and garden of Yu Wen, a college student in the late Qing Dynasty, is considered to be the most artistic garden among private gardens in Beijing in the late Qing Dynasty.
The odd-numbered courtyards from No.7 to 15 in Lubei were originally a group of large buildings, which were the residence and garden of Yu Wen, a college student in the late Qing Dynasty. Five hospitals are connected in parallel, covering an area of 1 1000 square meters. Yu Wen was a native of Zhenglan Banner in Manchuria in Qing Dynasty. He used to be the provincial judge of Sichuan, the governor of Shandong and the governor of Zhili. He was a bachelor of Wuyingtang in Guangxu 10. He accumulated a lot of wealth and carefully built his own house and garden. The park was built in 186 1 and named "Keyuan", with an area of about 4 mu. Although it is not very big, it is spacious and elegant, and it is considered to be the most artistic garden among private gardens in Beijing in the late Qing Dynasty.
It has been listed as a national key cultural relics protection unit, but it has not been opened to the outside world. Several people gathered in front of the courtyard to discuss: Gongwangfu Garden has been open for several years, but when will it be open to the public so that everyone can appreciate its "true face"?
The house has changed hands several times and experienced many vicissitudes. During the Beiyang government period, after Yuan Shikai's death, Feng bought the house when he came to Beijing from Nanjing as a president. When Japan occupied Beiping, the Feng family sold their house to Zhang Lanfeng, commander of the puppet army. After liberation, Courtyard No.9 to 1 1 used to be the North Korean Embassy in China, and later it was changed into a guest house and unit dormitory. Although it has undergone several changes, the house has been well preserved and the overall pattern has not changed much.
■ No.35 Courtyard and No.37 Courtyard in Lubei are the maiden homes of the last empress Wanrong.
Further west, Courtyard 35 and Courtyard 37 north of the road are the home of the Guo Bole family. Not many people say that Guo Bole's family may know about it. Generally speaking, it is the maiden of the last emperor, empress Xuan Tong. In the Qing Dynasty, it should be called "Hou Di". When Xuan Tong got married, it was 1 1 year of the Republic of China, but it still met the preferential conditions of the Qing royal family promulgated in the early years of the Republic of China, so it spent a lot of money to build this "back mansion" and carried out large-scale renovation. Rongyuan, a graceful father, was rated as a "third-class benefactor" according to the ritual system because of his daughter's "Houshu", and this mansion has also become a benefactor's residence, which needs large-scale reconstruction. For example, the original courtyard gate was changed to three government gates, and the inner and outer screen walls and the left and right screen doors were rebuilt.
The house we see now has three government gates, which have been surrounded by walls and turned into three houses with inverted seats for people to use. On the back cornice wall of seven south rooms, two doors were opened, which became the present No.35 and No.37.
According to some data, the west of No.45 is the prefect yamen of the Qing court. I walked forward cheerfully, but I didn't see any yamen or anything like that. Suddenly I saw the number 45, but inside it was a six-story dormitory building, just like it was built in the 1970s and 1980s. There is a ten-story building on the street. My heart sank. This may be the only high-rise building in this block, just like the dissonance suddenly appeared in a beautiful piece of music.
It is particularly worth mentioning that Mr. Zhu Jiajin, an expert on China's cultural relics and Qing history, who is known as the "national treasure" in the cultural relics field, once lived in the courtyards of Maoer Hutong 13, 15, 35 and 37 and Chaodou Hutong 7 1, and described these mansions in detail. When he lived in 13 and 15 as a child, he also witnessed the restoration and reconstruction of "Hou Di". Mr. Zhu is a researcher at the Palace Museum and a member of the National Cultural Relics Appraisal Committee. He has an in-depth study of Beijing's history, geography, cultural relics and folk customs. He passed away on September 29th, 2003, which was a great loss for the academic and cultural circles in China.
■ Several houses in Qinlao Hutong and Heizhima Hutong.
Go north after getting out of Maoer Hutong, and the east side of the road is Qinlao Hutong.
No.35 Qin Lao Hutong is also a beautiful house, which used to be the residence of Suojia, the chief minister of the Qing internal affairs office. The yard is not very big, but it is very particular. There is a small garden in front of his study called Qiyuan. There are rockeries, verandahs, pavilions and a boat-shaped open gallery in the park, which is small but far-reaching, and quite has the artistic conception of Jiangnan gardens. Standing in front of the gate, only the brick carving on the upper floor of the gate surprised me. The sculptor is extremely exquisite and well preserved. It's a rare treasure in brick carving.
Out of Qin Lao Hutong, go north, and west is Black Sesame Hutong. When I entered Hu, it suddenly rained heavily. I hurried to 13 and hid at the door from the rain. The door is on the high steps, with stones going up and down in front of it, and a tall shadow wall is opposite the door. There are two boys playing ball at the door. I asked them, "Do you live here?" "yes." "Is this yard big?" "Great!" "Do you know the great man who lived here in the past? "They shook their heads and said," Never heard of it. " A few words brought me closer to the children. I told them that this was the residence of Kuijun, governor of Sichuan and minister of war in the late Qing Dynasty, and they were very interested. I said, "Can I go in and have a look? Let's talk while walking. " The boys enthusiastically took me to the yard.
Although some huts have been built in the yard, you can still see the general pattern. A total of five courtyards, all relatively intact. I wanted to take some photos, but it rained too hard. I bid farewell to the enthusiastic children and went back to the door to take shelter from the rain. I want to take more photos next time, but will I meet such a lovely child next time and let me go in again?
The mansions I visited were all in the hutongs on both sides, not in Nanluoguxiang? At that time, the houses were all facing south, so most of them were in the east-west alley, and the big houses were all in the north of the alley. However, Nanluoguxiang was not completely absent. There is one at No.59 Nanluoguxiang, which is the residence of Hong Chengchou, a famous descendant general of the Qing Dynasty in the late Ming Dynasty. At that time, Hongfu was very big, and most of the courtyards between Shajing Hutong and Heizhima Hutong belonged to Zhai Hong, all the way to the east gate of the square brick factory. There are also people named Hong here. I wonder if they are descendants of Hong Chengchou?
■ Former Residence of Mao Dun and Hangyuan of Chiang Kai-shek
Opposite Heizhima Hutong, to the east is Hou Yuanen Temple Hutong. Not far from Hutong, 13 is the former residence of Mao Dun. Compared with many deep houses in this area, Mao Dun's former residence is too ordinary and inconspicuous, just a small courtyard with two entrances. This July is the anniversary of Mao Dun's birth 1 10. The former residence was reopened after renovation. I walked into my former residence, and a bust of Mr. Mao Dun stood in the front yard. The surrounding room is an exhibition of Mao Dun's life. Bedroom, living room, study, etc. In the backyard, it is also arranged according to the appearance of her husband before his death. After liberation, Mao Dun lived in the dormitory of the Ministry of Culture at No.203 Dongsitou, adjacent to Zhou Yang and Yang Hansheng. He moved to Houyuan 'en Temple in 1974, and died in 198 1, where he spent his last seven years.
After leaving Mao Dun's former residence, go east, and after several doors, you will see a big yard-No.7 Yuan 'en Temple Hutong. This used to be the residence of the second son of Qing Prince in Qing Dynasty. This building is a combination of Chinese and western styles, including quadrangles, western-style buildings and a big garden. There are western-style arched pavilions and fountains in the park, as well as stone carvings in Yuanmingyuan, which are also a combination of Chinese and western. The house has also changed owners several times. It was sold to the French in the Republic of China. After the victory of War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression, it became the hangyuan of Chiang Kai-shek, and Chiang Kai-shek lived here when he came to Beiping. After liberation, it became the office of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of China North China Bureau, the Yugoslav Embassy and the Chinese People's Association for Friendship with Foreign Countries. Now it is a friendly hotel.
■ Juer Hutong, which is well-known at home and abroad.
Ju 'er Hutong is an alley in the east of the northernmost part of Nanluoguxiang. It is said that he is famous at home and abroad because architect Wu Liangyong presided over the renovation project of the dangerous house in Juer Hutong, and was awarded the "Asian Architecture Gold Award" by the Asian Architecture Association in 1992 and the "World Habitat Award" in 1993.
In the middle of the hutong, there is a 2-3-story building in the north, surrounded by a small courtyard with black tiles and white walls, which not only has the beauty of Jiangnan dwellings, but also has the charm of old Beijing quadrangles and is in harmony with the surrounding architectural styles. This is the new quadrangle after the transformation of Juer Hutong. According to the urban planning theory of "organic renewal", Professor Wu believes that the old city reconstruction should keep good historical buildings, repair dangerous buildings that can still be used, dismantle dangerous buildings and gradually transition, which not only maintains the continuity of historical context, but also forms an organic overall environment. These new quadrangles have the dual characteristics of strong privacy of apartment buildings and strong sense of neighborhood of quadrangles. They are organically unified with the old hutong pattern, which protects the style of the ancient capital and is a successful exploration of the transformation of the old city of Beijing.
■ East exit of Juer Hutong, now No.3, No.5, No.7 and No.6 of Shoubi Hutong, was originally the residence of Rong Lu, governor of Zhili in Qing Dynasty.
The east exit of Juer Hutong, now No.3, No.5, No.7 and No.6 of Shoubi Hutong, was the residence of Rong Lu, governor of Zhili and minister of war in Qing Dynasty. The original house was large and divided into three parts, with western-style buildings in the west, gardens in the middle and Chinese quadrangles in the east. After liberation, part of this house was used as the Afghan Embassy, and later it was divided into several parts and turned into staff quarters. The pattern has been destroyed and the protection situation is not good.
Nanluoguxiang Bar Street
Nanluoguxiang is a very distinctive bar street in Beijing, and it is the most well-protected quadrangle area in Beijing. The whole bar street is dominated by small bungalows in quadrangles, with red lanterns hanging high in front of the door. The decoration style returns to the traditional simplicity, which conforms to the atmosphere and style of quadrangles.
Unlike Sanlitun and Houhai, most of the bars here are quiet, harmonious and natural. Living in downtown is far away from the hustle and bustle of downtown and closer to life. The guests are mainly foreign tourists, "Star of Tomorrow" Chinese opera students and mature bar lovers. Guests can experience the atmosphere of old Beijing quadrangles here, stay away from the noise and enjoy physical and mental relaxation, or read books, or take computers to work overtime, or get together with friends or even negotiate business.
It is worth mentioning that every bar in Nanluoguxiang provides free wireless Internet access. The prices of bars are generally low, and the shops also offer a variety of exquisite snacks, both western and Chinese. The boss and the waiter are very easygoing and homely.