After a hard day, I saw a new subway advertisement in Shanghai when I left the station. The natural birch forest is full of dry and golden autumn breath. Think about the autumn when my friends are painting recently. I owe you a travel note, which was finally handed in on1February.
Want to see the brightest colors, listen to the best songs, and be the most generous gourmet. Go to Hulunbeier in October. The autumn in Hulunbeier is especially clear, quiet and sad.
Time: seven days.
Location: Not only the famous grassland scenery of Hulunbeier, but also the forests, rivers, wetlands, lakes and mountains of Hulunbeier. ...
Scenery: Reed swamp and red-crowned crane in Zhalong Wetland, Arxan Forest Park, long river sunset in Xinbaerhu Grassland, bright lights in Manzhouli, Feimazhuang in Montenegro, colorful wetlands in Ergon, long birch trees in Wumengshiwei, quiet and peaceful border port, autumn in Mordaoga, and the first snow in Genhe Town of Aoluguya tribe.
Mode of travel: 1 1. Go back to your hometown with a contempt chain → travel with a group → travel on the road → the second level of outbound travel-travel with a group.
Why not go back to your hometown? Because I want to see the scenery in other places; Why not drive? I am embarrassed that I have to drive five or six hundred kilometers every day for the whole trip. Why not leave the country? Because of poverty.
Last question, why choose Hulunbeier? Because there are few people, the west lake during the eleventh period is like this.
The bund is like this
Even the crescent spring is like this.
Seeing these news, you will be very glad that you have come to this place where you can hardly see any tourists.
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I dragged my suitcase from Shanghai to catch the plane. It was 12: 30 pm when we landed in Harbin. Harbin airport is far from the city. Seeing that I didn't eat, the taxi driver enthusiastically took out soda cookies to share with me. He has a good impression on this city.
The biggest advantage of joining a tour group is definitely peace of mind. The luckiest thing about Hulunbeier's trip is to join a relatively good tour group. From accommodation to travel, from group members to scenic spots, he is not picky. Even Aershan, the hardest worker the next day, was very satisfied with his stay and couldn't help calling for the ranger.
Imagine that you are free and easy, running five or six hundred kilometers to a strange environment every day. It will waste a lot of energy to find a comfortable place to live while doing a scenic spot strategy. It is better to take it out to explore the beauty of a strange environment, explore local food, and sit down and chat with the locals.
Day 1 Harbin-Zhalong Wetland-Zhalantun Zhalong Wetland is famous for its red-crowned cranes. Red-crowned cranes are stationed in Zhalong wetland in summer, fly from Zhalong wetland to Yancheng in winter, spend the winter there and fly back the next year. Zhalong Wetland is located near Qiqihar City. After breakfast in the hotel, we started from Harbin and passed Daqing, and we could already see the endless grasslands/swamps on both sides of the road. The blue sky and white clouds are sunny, and the tadpole machine moves up and down. I'm sorry for the good weather without changing into a festive mood.
Autumn comes early in Daxing 'anling. During the National Day, it was already late autumn. First feel the dry autumn sound reflected by the blue sky and white clouds in Zhalong Wetland.
(This picture is from fellow group members, the source cannot be found, and it has been deleted. )
At present, there are only about 2,000 red-crowned cranes in the world, and there are 346 in Zhalong Wetland. Unfortunately, wild red-crowned cranes have flown to Yancheng for the winter in 10, and only artificially raised red-crowned cranes can be seen.
There will be a crane performance every two hours in Zhalong Wetland, mainly to train the flying ability of red-crowned cranes. I just took a casual look, but when a group of red-crowned cranes spread their wings and circled for nine days, their hearts still sprouted a sense of openness.
At this time, the BGM in my mind turned out to be Master Park's Blue Lotus: your life is unrestrained and your heart is carefree.
(Photo courtesy of Master Feng, thanks for the beautiful scenery taken all the way)
Although Zhalong Wetland is famous for its red-crowned cranes, I love the endless reeds in autumn more. It is said that there is the largest wetland in the north.
When water meets light, golden reeds rustle in the wind, but shine in the sun. The world is vast and there is only one person left. On both sides of the road, there are reeds. There is wind in the cloud flight. In Zhalong Wetland, people can really stand as a thinking reed.
The wind is very strong in the reeds, so you must wear windproof and warm clothes. 1 1 Hulunbeier is already very cold. Besides wearing thick clothes and preparing hats and gloves, shoes must be comfortable and warm. Don't ask me why. I'll tell you the answer when I stare at Martin boots and snow boots with only a pair of loafers.
I live in Zhalantun at night, because it is too cold during the day, and I especially want to eat hot things. The group decided to drink mutton offal soup.
Chunqiang authentic mutton soup is recommended (/shop/95 140 14). Shopkeepers are super-conscience. A 48 yuan mutton offal soup can be continued indefinitely. Mutton offal is not bad at all. The mutton soup is tender and tastes just right. If you can add some potatoes, it should be warmer and more waxy.
Day2 Zhalantun-Aershan National Forest Park began to wash eyes and set off from Zhalantun to Aershan National Forest Park.
All the way through the overlapping autumn colors of birch forest and larch forest. White birch is like snow, and pine tree is golden yellow. It stands upright in the mountains and plains, and has its own unique style, which is as beautiful as refined.
I've been through this scenery all day.
This is the most satisfactory photo taken on this trip. At the door of the humble toilet on the roadside, a king who closed his eyes and enjoyed the autumn wind and autumn leaves stood behind a golden ocean. This is what autumn should look like.
Arrive at Aershan around 1 in the afternoon. It's really cold on the mountain, and winter comes earlier than other places. Fortunately, the first snow in Aershan this winter has just fallen the day before yesterday, and Aershan in the snow has a unique flavor; It's a pity that the pine needles have almost come to an end, and there is dark yellow everywhere, not the bright and strong golden yellow on the road.
Aershan National Forest Park is located on the west side of Daxing 'anling, belonging to volcanic lava landform. Due to volcanic eruption, lava blockage and water cutting, a series of mosaic truncated cone volcanoes and lava lakes have been formed.
Tickets for Aershan Scenic Area are valid for 48 hours, including tickets and internal scenic bus. If you drive, you can apply to bring your car in. Because the scenic spot is too big, and the last bus in the scenic spot is at 4 pm, if you drive to Aershan, it is strongly recommended to enter the park by car, which will save a lot of roads and be more free.
(map of aershan scenic spot)
Aershan has two main entrances, Chaihe and Aershan. We entered from Chaihe River and went to the Grand Canyon, the Tianchi Lake in Hump Ridge and the Dujuan Lake that day.
The Grand Canyon belongs to the volcanic lava fault zone. The canyon is covered with dark volcanic rocks, and it is snowy in winter. The scenic spot has closed the stairs leading to the canyon and can only be overlooked from the top of the mountain. It's a little regrettable. Fortunately, the first snow in the forest, stepping on thick pine needles, listening to the creaking sound of the first snow this winter and watching the gentle sunshine of the remaining pine needles, has a unique flavor.
I wanted to take this opportunity to take a cool aerial photo, but the wind was so strong that I broke Mavic's arm on the first flight that I could only cry when I saw the big S-bend of the Ergon River. Friendly reminder, aerial photography is risky, so be careful when camouflage.
(Pretend to have aerial photography here)
The Tianchi Lake in Tuofengling is a high lake formed by accumulated water in the crater. There is a deep pool surrounded by trees above the mountain. Because the sun shines in different directions, it has different sapphire luster, which is unique and unique, and only feels beautiful.
Yan Dao said that Tianchi in Hump Ridge is better than Tianchi in Aershan, but in their northeast view, both are big blisters, so if you have seen Tianchi in Baitou Mountain, you don't have to expect too much from Tianchi in Aershan.
The last stop of the day is to meet Dufu Lake. The most beautiful time in Dufu Lake should be February and March. There are azaleas all over the mountains. Under a snow, the white snow reflects the azaleas all over the mountains. Only naked azaleas can be seen in October, and the rest can only be imagined.
I can't describe the sunset in Du Fu Lake, but I saw a sunset spreading in the water. Half of the river rustled and half was red. Looking back at the opposite side, the new moon has risen, which is really lovely. Every sunset on this trip gives people a strong burning feeling.
Spend the night at Lanting Villa in Aershan Xing 'an Service Area. The accommodation environment in the mountains is not good. This family is still relatively good, at least clean and tidy, with electric blankets under the bed and enough warmth in the room. For dinner, I specially tasted a local specialty. Ants scrambled eggs. Ants taste a little sour. It is said that they can treat rheumatism and arthritis. The fried eggs are slightly smaller. Although it looks heavy, it really doesn't feel anything.
On the third day, Arxan National Forest Park-Xinbaerhu Prairie-Manzhouli got up in the morning, and there was a thick layer of water drops on the window. Open the door, the air is dry and cold, and the breakfast stall at the door is steaming. If you can live like this in the mountains for a few days, you should be particularly comfortable and open. Due to the time problem, we didn't visit all the scenic spots in Aershan. Today we went to Shitanglin, Santanxia and Wusu Langzi Lake.
Shitang forest in Aershan is a relic left by Quaternary volcanic eruption, which was formed by magma flow after volcanic eruption. Looking around, the black stone head is folded in time, telling an ancient story. Nostalgia for the past and nostalgia for the past is also a grand view.
If Shitanglin is tough, Santanxia is obviously much softer, because the Haraha River flows through here. The best autumn in Santanxia should be in mid-September. At that time, the colors of the leaves in generate are full of autumn colors, and yellow, white, red and green are intertwined, which is really pleasing to the eye.
During the 11th Five-Year Plan period, most trees and leaves were lost, leaving only bare branches. The mountain is covered with a layer of Bo Xue, against the background of blue sky and white clouds. It's sunny after snow, suitable for relaxation.
Starting from Santanxia, heading for Aershan City, and passing through Wusu prodigal lake, the vision suddenly widened. This is a rare large-scale open water area in Daxinganling forest area, and it doesn't need tickets, so it suddenly appears, which fits the name of this place. Just be a prodigal son and be free and easy. I checked the origin of Wusu prodigal lake. It is said that there was a drought in the grassland during the Qianlong period. At that time, a descendant family of Genghis Khan gave birth to a son. Because of their thirst for water, they named their child Wusu (Mongolian for water), hoping that he would bring prosperity to the grassland. Little Wusu always liked to play when he was just sensible, and he refused to graze and work until he was in his twenties.
People call him "Wusu prodigal son" because he does nothing right. One year, there was a drought in the grassland, and Wusu struggled to find water. Herdsmen call Wusu Langzi Lake, the water source, and the lake formed by the stream through which the lake flows as Wulan River. Sounds like the story of the prodigal son returning.
Leaving Wusu prodigal lake, Aershan will say goodbye. Passing by Aershan Railway Station, it is said that it is only as small as two rows of seats, but it is beautiful. I found a picture from the Internet to give you a feeling because I can only take a look at it from a distance with the group.
Starting from Aershan, go straight to Manzhouli and drive all the way in the afternoon. On both sides are endless open grasslands. Walking in it, there is quite a feeling that the road is in sight.
On both sides of the road, grass rolls stroll lazily on the grassland and can be seen everywhere. The happiest and most regrettable thing about this trip is that I can't sit under these grass rolls and smell the grass.
Walking through the new Balhu grassland, stuck in the sunset, open the car door, outside is the long river of condensing yen.
Because these two days have been walking through the natural environment, after sunset, the grasslands on both sides tend to be dim and the trip tends to be boring. Being hit by a bright light suddenly, violently and defenseless is like walking in the desert for a long time and suddenly seeing a mirage. Manzhouli is such a city. There is a local saying that "there is heaven above and Suzhou and Hangzhou below, which is not as bright as Manzhouli", as if I had walked through the boundless forest and endless grassland before I saw this brightly lit city.
(Manzhouli Landmark-Taowa Square)
As a land port city, Manzhouli's architecture is typical of Russian style, and streets and shops of all sizes are marked in Chinese, Mongolian and Russian. I shot an advertisement in Russian, but I can't tell it's from the border town of China. It's quite interesting.
The most famous in Manchuria are Russian food and barbecue. Loubry Western Restaurant is famous for Russian food, but there were too many people waiting in line that day, so I gave up. I chose a well-known local barbecue shop, Meng Xiangyuan Barbecue (/shop/67070620). The lamb chops are rich in oil, but not greasy at all. It is especially satisfying to eat meat with a big mouth. The barbecue is delicious, so be sure to pay attention to the quantity.
On the fourth day, Manzhouli-Ergon-Heishantou Manzhouli is famous for Guomen Scenic Area and Taowa Square. I'm not interested in Guomen Scenic Spot, which belongs to the scenic spot of pure punching. Boarding the country and overlooking the Russian town of Lake Baikal, I saw the rumbling train passing through the country and heading for Siberia, and I had another feeling about this small border town.
Standing in the square in front of the national gate, I saw a lonely little house in the distance. Master Feng took a very clear picture.
There is a Sino-Russian duty-free trade zone in Guomen Scenic Area, which is the only trade zone between countries in China. I want to see the prosperous trade inside, because I have to apply for a border pass, and my time with the group is really limited, so I only took a look at the door. The duty-free trade zone is similar to a supermarket, where people come and go to buy a lot of food to go back, and it is filled with a shopping atmosphere similar to the Chinese New Year holiday.
Leave Manzhouli, go to Heishantou, and walk all the way along the border. The Ergon River appears and disappears on the grassland. From time to time, I can see border sentry boxes and camps of Mongolian tribes. The horse I ride is a bit naughty, and I always like to look at its little friend, even at first sight. Riding on a horse, I hobbled to the heights of Montenegro, overlooking the intersection of Genhe Wetland and Ergon River, which was once the fief of Genghis Khan's younger brother Hasal. At the beginning, Mongolia's military pride in the world suddenly came to mind.
In the evening, I stayed in Ergon, which happened to be the Mid-Autumn Festival. The moon in the small town was particularly cold and round. We should solemnly recommend this hot pot restaurant, Baiwei Fresh Copper Hot Pot (/shop/75098000), whose prizes are hung all over the wall. The mutton and beef in the grassland are very tender and delicate, and the entrance has its own flavor. The weight given by the store is very real. A plate of mutton was stacked on four floors, and finally the average person was less than 50, so I was absolutely satisfied with the food.
Day 5 Ergon Wetland-Enhe-Shiwei I am obsessed with the Ergon River. The river winds, wild flowers cross the grassland, and the lake is misty. This is the place far away from Hulunbeier grassland.
(Official photo of Ergon Heda S-bend, like this in September)
Ergon wetland is vast and full of vitality, and it is wrapped in rich colors in late autumn. Because it is half a month late, the color of the tree has begun to fade and gradually turn yellow. At this time, the bare birch is particularly conspicuous and has its own fairy spirit. Walking on the wooden steps shaded by birch trees, friends in the same trade played Master Park's birch trees with their stereos, which was quite natural. Its meaning is gloomy, and the mountains and rivers are lonely. The sun, the moon and the stars are bright, the Ming river is in the sky, and there is no sound among the trees.
Listen to the birch forest, can you see where the small speakers are hidden? )
Farewell to Ergon in the morning, drive to Wumeng Shiwei, and pass through ethnic villages in Germany and Russia. It's just a meal. The first thing you do when you get off the bus is naturally related to eating. The taste of this fat mutton kebab is the best mutton kebab I have eaten in this year, right on the roadside stall in this town. To make delicious mutton skewers, first of all, mutton should be delicious and strung on the iron tag between fat and thin; Secondly, it is necessary to cook properly, thanks to uncle kebab's keen sense of the interaction between charcoal fire and mutton; Thirdly, the mutton should be properly seasoned and pickled in advance. The last handful of cumin gave a handful of mutton skewers a unique vitality.
Well, the most beautiful ones are all kinds of woodcuts. We just stroll on the road at noon when the sun is just right, and there are such bright little houses everywhere. Occasionally a dog comes out. In the past, the days passed slowly and the mail was slow, so we took a leisurely walk and played on the swing, and the days passed quietly. Sometimes I long for excitement, noise, fire, trance, and sometimes I long for peace. It is clear that Enhe Town is the latter.
Shiwei is the birthplace of Mongolians. The birch forest in winter is beautiful, and it is strongly recommended to stay here for a long time. The birch forest with its own spirituality makes any photo have a sense of story. This lonely and freehand birch tree held its head three feet high, as if it could hear their conversation with the immortals.
Walking through this birch forest, I want to know who and who will have what kind of story.
Tonight's destination is another border town-Shiwei. Shiwei was originally a tribe, and Qidan was a nomadic people. Now it is a border town, which combines the characteristics of its own nation and the characteristics of the Russian border and has its own vigorous literary atmosphere. The Ergon River separates Shi Wei from Russia. There is a bridge connecting Russia in Shiwei Park, which is bounded by the center of the bridge. Half belongs to China and half to Russia. Unfortunately, we went a little late and couldn't visit the bridge. Living in a block of wood with local characteristics at night, the room has a faint smell of wood, which is particularly soothing.
(We live in Mukeren, and the name of the store is "Ranger's House")
This Mukereng offers free bicycles to ride through town. There is an Ollia Leba House in the town (/shop/92558558). The music bar here is fluffy, much like bread, unlike the music bar in Harbin, which is solid. The boss said they milked themselves for fun and tasted them while they were hot. The milk tastes super mellow, crisp outside and tender inside. I want to stay here. As a foodie, the biggest regret is that I didn't eat blueberry ice cream. Daxinganling is the main producing area of blueberry in China. Locals like to make ice cream with milk from their own cows and pour jam on ice cream with natural blueberries from Daxing 'anling. If you come in summer, you must try it. It is said that the taste is very strong, mellow and sweet, and it is a pity not to taste it.
(Night in Shiwei Town)
In the evening, I found a bonfire in the studio, and the moonlight on the grassland was particularly clear. A bunch of people are singing and dancing happily around the bonfire. When they were addicted to alcohol, a bottle of old Russian Miller came. There is fire, wine, singing and dancing, which is the company of the world of mortals.
On the sixth day, the cold morning in Shiwei-Moldaoga-Delpur-Genhe Shiwei was the feeling of winter in my hometown. Struggling to get out of bed, the window is full of wet water vapor, standing in my yard, taking a breath of air conditioning, but in the distance is a cold mountain with smoke cages, and there are layers of gold and white on the mountain. In the misty clouds, I have a familiar sense of intimacy and the beauty of landscape painting.
Because the local roads were narrow and carts could not enter, we changed taxis and traveled on the edge of Mordoga forest. Cross the muddy village road and walk to the border, and you will be suddenly enlightened. Ergon River winds through and climbs to the nearest mountain, independent of cold and autumn.
The boundary pillar is brilliant, and the grass rustles across the street, giving you an unobstructed view. When you walk to the north of Ergon River, you will suddenly feel that Mao Zedong is in Orange Island. The forest coverage rate of Mordoga is as high as 93.3%, which preserves the last bright virgin forest landscape of coniferous forest in the cold temperate zone of China. In the deep mountains, the forest in Moldoga is a little wet and muddy, and the thick pine needles of larch are covered with a layer. The scenery is cold and the leaves are warm. The weather is a little cloudy, there are no blue sky and white clouds, only cold-faced beauty. Autumn in the north is vividly displayed here.
At noon in a small town, I saw a pot-stewed dish (/shop/673 1 1594) as soon as I got off the bus, and I eagerly ran in and asked for stewed chicken and mushrooms. It was cold, and seven or eight people gathered around the fire to keep warm, watching the fragrance in the big iron pot come out bit by bit, infiltrating the whole person, and the body slowly woke up in the call of food. I have eaten a lot of instant noodles and stewed mushrooms, but this is the first time I have eaten such a serious and authentic chicken stewed mushroom (an inexperienced foodie). Put the chicken pieces and cabbage vermicelli together in a large iron pot, pour the soup, put it in a steamer, steam the flower rolls in the steamer, wait for twenty or thirty minutes, and then wait for the hot rice. The locals especially like to eat bean buns. There are about twenty sticky bean bags. I just want to taste it. The boss quickly steamed me two sticky bean buns, which tasted sticky and stained with sugar, just like the memory of eating steamed buns dipped in sugar when I was a child.
After lunch, I went all the way to Genhe. Moldoga forest is snowy, white and yellow overlap each other, and Huang Man forest is shrouded in mist, attracting a group of people to exclaim all the way.
It is more suitable to eat hot pot on snowy days. I found an iced mutton hot pot that night, which is a fresh way to eat hot pot. There is ice on the bottom of the pot, and fresh mutton pieces are piled on the ice. After the hot pot is heated, the ice cubes melt quickly. Perhaps it is because of the principle of heat expansion and cold contraction that mutton will tighten when it is delicious, and it will rise again after subsequent heating, so this kind of meat tastes smooth and delicious. It's quite fresh.
On the seventh day, the last day of Oluguya-Golden Account Khan-Hailar arrived in a blink of an eye. Get up early and go to Oluguya. Aoluguya is the settlement of Ewenki, a deer tribe. People here migrated from the Lena River valley in Siberia to the Ergon River valley more than 300 years ago, and have been living in the cold forest in Daxing 'anling, relying on hunting and raising reindeer for a living. They believe in shamans.
Worship the tree god and make a pointed broom with birch branches and bark to live in. I recommend reading The Right Bank of Ergon by Chi Zijian.
Because of the snow, this area is particularly dreamy. The silly roe deer here are all kept in captivity, and the way they stand with their ears is a mystery.
Reindeer are not surrounded, so you can take photos with them happily and feed them in various ways.
Small squirrels like to run around at will. Of course, they are not afraid of people.
From Oluguya, the snow faded all the way, and the grassland began to become vast. Jinmu Khan is a relatively mature grassland scenic spot. Here you can see the Mozigele River, which Lao She called "the first meandering water in the world". Standing on a high place, you can see that it goes downstream and upstream, and often turns back, twists and turns, nine bends and one ring.
After Jin came out, he drove to Hailar, and the trip to Hulunbeier ended.
I believe that there will be a grassland in everyone's heart, and it is this grassland that attracts us to see the bigger and bigger world. "My father once described the fragrance of the grassland, which he couldn't forget at the ends of the earth. My mother always likes to describe the big river running on my remote Mongolian plateau. Now I finally see the vast land, standing on the fragrant grassland, I am in tears, the river is singing the blessings of my ancestors, blessing the wandering children and looking for the way home. " Life is like a reverse journey, and I am also a pedestrian. The world is endless and is the world of mortals.
This travel book dragged on for a month and was finally finished. Although I will grow up gradually, I will write down the places I have been, the food I have eaten and the people I have met one by one because of my love for waves, and I will live in the end.