Then, how are the four dark dishes in old Beijing in the eyes of outsiders and the four delicious foods in the hearts of old Beijingers cooked?
When I first drank bean juice, the sour taste like swill really made me swallow. Because the process of making bean juice is like this: soak mung beans until they can be twisted and peeled, take them out, add water, grind them into fine pulp, and pour them into vats for fermentation. Starch sinks to the bottom of the tank, and soybean juice floats on it. Fermented bean juice must be boiled with water in a large casserole, then boiled with fermented bean juice, then kept warm with low fire and served with it.
Although it tastes strange, soybean juice is rich in protein, vitamin C, crude cellulose and sugar. It can quench thirst and relieve summer heat in summer, clear heat and warm yang in winter, and be drunk in four seasons, which is beneficial to appetizing, strengthening the spleen, expelling toxin and eliminating dryness.
How can I drink authentic bean juice? If you drink cold, it tastes like swill in your mouth; If you drink it while it is hot, it will taste different, sweet and sour, and have a unique taste; Drinking bean juice must be accompanied by finely cut kimchi. Generally, kohlrabi is used in summer, and shredded mustard with old brine is mixed with Chili oil rings, which has a unique flavor.
There is a poem about bean porridge in Yan Dou's Ode to Miscellaneous Foods written by a person near Xue: The dregs can be used as porridge, and the old pulp tastes thin and thick.
Stir-fried liver is a Beijing snack developed from folk food "Boiled liver" and "Stir-fried lung" in Song Dynasty. There is also a poem about fried liver in Yan Dou's Miscellaneous Poems on Snacks: Boil fat sausage in thick sauce, and try it on a fair trade. Proverbs spread from pig to pig, and once you fry the liver.
How to cook fried liver? The annotation after this poem says: "Fried liver is made of pig small intestine, which is cut into sections and stewed in powder juice." ... called fried liver, which is actually stewed in pig's large intestine. Without liver, it's no use frying (occasionally there is a liver lump, don't fry). There is a saying in Beijing that pigs eat fried liver and hurt their own flesh and blood. So the word' fried liver fragrance' in the poem makes the seller scream. "This explanation is very clear, fried liver is actually stewed sausage. That is, it is made of pig large intestine and pig liver (only 1/3) as main materials, garlic as auxiliary materials and starch thickening. In the eyes of outsiders, this black, sticky and smelly fried liver is praised by Beijingers: the soup is bright red, thin but not sticky, the liver and intestines are fat, and the taste is strong but not greasy.
Fried tripe is a process that fresh tripe (including tripe and tripe collar) or fresh lamb tripe is cleaned and sorted, cut into strips, fried in boiling water, and served with seasonings such as oil, sesame sauce, vinegar, Chili oil, bean curd soup with sauce, chopped coriander and chopped green onion. Fresh and tender texture, crispy taste.
Old Beijingers like to eat tripe, especially after beginning of autumn in the lunar calendar. When Beijingers pay attention to "eating autumn", there is a saying that "if you want to eat autumn, you will have an upset stomach".
In the eyes of outsiders, there may be only one tripe, but in the eyes of Beijingers, it can be divided into:
Fried lamb belly: scattered Dan, belly kernel, mushroom head, belly collar, mushrooms.
Tripe: louver, belly kernel and belly collar.
Generally speaking, the so-called black louver we eat is the belly of sheep, and the accurate name should be scattered and tender.
Only cows are called blind. There are two kinds of beef in venetian blinds. Cattle blinds grown up eating feed are black, and those grown up eating food crops are yellow. As for the taste that should be yellow, it is even better. The principle is naturally the same as that of Chai Chicken.
Tripe is thicker than tripe, so if you want something tender, you should have sandan, and if you want something chewy, you should order venetian blinds. The highest level of eating fried belly is to eat belly collar, because it is expensive and tender. It is said that it takes several stomachs to make such a plate. Sheep's belly collar should be peeled off to eat, and cattle's can be fried directly. Besides, mushroom tips are also expensive things. Mushrooms are only a part of sheep's stomach, and this mushroom tip is the essence. A sheep has only that small piece, and it takes many sheep to make that plate. The belly is also very good, and it tastes tender and smooth. It takes three sheep's stomachs to make a plate of belly meat. In the old society, most ordinary people ate tripe and loose pills, and only the poor or not-so-rich people wanted tripe and mushrooms.
In Beijing, niujie is the best place to eat tripe. Feng's three restaurants are not bad. But the price may be a little expensive. The correct way to open it is to eat fried tripe, and then a portion of sheep oil and sesame bean curd. If you have a big stomach, you can have a sesame seed cake or mutton soup and live together.
Some people say: "Stewed fire is a pure thing in old Beijing, born and bred, and purer than Beijing opera." Braised pork is a popular snack, which evolved from "Suzhou meat" that Qianlong loves to eat. Unofficial history said that Gan Long liked the dishes cooked by Zhang Dongguan, the chef of Chen Yangzhou's family, so he called him into the palace to be a chef. Zhang Dongguan knew the emperor's dietary preferences very well and created a dish made of pork belly as a meal. Because Zhang Dongguan is from Suzhou, this dish is called "Suzhou Meat". In Yan Dou's "Miscellaneous Poems on Snacks", there is a poem about Su Zao meat: "Su Zao is full of greed, order soup and soak meat. Even if greedy people say they are tired, a cup of ointment is full of shirts. " He also pointed out: "Soviet-made butcher shops use long strips of fat meat, stew it with very bad sauce, and then burn it in the same pot." Most buyers bury meat in the fire to eat. "
After this method was introduced to the people, ordinary people used pig's head meat instead of pork belly, and then added cheap pigs to the water. Although this is not a good ingredient, they still eat happily, which is called stewing, boiling and burning.
Braised pork should be cut into tic-tac-toe knives, tofu should be cut into triangles, and the small intestine and lung head should be chopped into small pieces. Scoop a spoonful of old soup from the pot, pour it into a porcelain bowl, and add some Chili oil, tofu, garlic paste and chives. When a bowl of hot braised pork is served on the table, the fire, lung head and tofu in the bowl have absorbed enough soup, and the fire is thorough but not sticky, and the meat is rotten but not rotten. However, the taste of small intestine is the heaviest, soft, mellow and not greasy.
Undoubtedly, the best thing to say is "Xiao Changchen" in Nanheng Street.