"Guangzhou is good, and there are many delicious foods. The boat porridge and shrimp dumplings are stuffed with barbecued pork, and the ginger and onion in the vegetarian noodles are fished. " At the cultural and artistic performance at the opening ceremony of Guangzhou Asian Food Festival, Master Dongshan's song "Good Guangzhou" made a "global promotion" for authentic Guangzhou cuisine.

In fact, the reputation of "eating in Guangzhou" has long been widely spread, and the food civilization in Guangzhou is also imperceptibly affecting the whole country, promoting the change of people's lifestyle, and even affecting the way of thinking and thinking-

"Sighing morning tea" is no longer the patent of the old Guangzhou people, and in many cities in the north, more and more people fall in love with the leisure of "one cup and two pieces"; The "rules" on the dining table such as AA system and packing are also "consciously observed" by more and more people; After nightfall, the snack culture has also spread from Guangzhou to the whole country, and "late-night eating" is vividly reflected in the circle of friends ...

The civilization contained in Guangzhou cuisine is becoming a new fashion.

Cantonese-style "Tanzao Tea" is popular in the whole country.

In the early morning, tea houses and hotels are crowded with people. Accompanied by the dense fragrance of "one cup and two pieces", Laoguang people began their day's life.

The dietary custom of drinking morning tea in Guangzhou has a long history. In the Qing Dynasty, the custom of drinking tea centered on morning tea took shape. Erli Pavilion, Teahouse and Teahouse have been formed one after another, and the combination of refreshments and the appreciation of elegance and vulgarity have become the important features of tea drinking culture in Guangzhou. To this day, "Have you had tea?" (Have you had morning tea?) is still the most commonly used word of greeting among Laoguang people.

In the consciousness of Guangzhou people, drinking morning tea is not only about enjoying tea, but also contains rich social life contents. It is related to diet, but also to the etiquette and habits of interpersonal communication.

In the teahouse, we can often see a scene of a family sitting around a table, where adults are chatting and children are enjoying themselves. In the steaming smell of shrimp dumplings, boat porridge, steamed chicken feet in sauce, the family is happy and the feelings between relatives are maintained and sublimated.

Guangzhou, as the capital of the Millennium, has extremely developed commerce and trade. Since the reform and opening up, with the rapid economic and social development in Guangzhou, the culture of drinking morning tea has not disappeared, but has increasingly become an important part of Guangzhou people's lives. Teahouses have become places where many business people exchange information and cooperate with each other. "Busy for fame, busy for profit, busy for leisure, have a cup of tea", which is the subtlety behind the Cantonese morning tea culture-a few cages of snacks are eaten, and a cup is touched, and often a single business is negotiated.

Today, Guangzhou's "morning tea culture" has spread to the whole country. "What makes me see the sun before 1 o'clock on the weekend morning? In order not to line up to eat some dude. " A Shanghai citizen left a message on the food review website. Last year, Diandude, a teahouse in Guangzhou, went out of Guangzhou and settled in Shanghai, and quickly became a queuing shop of online celebrity, which often had to wait for an hour. Less than a year ago, Diandude has opened three branches in Shanghai, including the branch in Xintiandi business district, which has received more than 13, comments from netizens. In addition to Diandude, Taotaoju and other "time-honored brands" have also gone out of Guangzhou and opened to other cities, which have been loved by local people.

"packing and AA system" has become a new fashion

After sighing morning tea in Guangzhou teahouse, one sentence you can often hear is "No need to pack", that is, "Please help me pack". This is the unique "packaging culture" in Guangzhou's food culture.

food is the most important thing for the people, and food comes first with ceremony. Eating is an important part of social life, and table civilization is an important embodiment of social civilization. In addition to paying attention to diet, Guangzhou people have long been deeply rooted in the civilized habits such as "compact discs" and packaging.

In China, the behavior of "packing" is generally considered to have first appeared in Guangzhou. Since 198s, Guangzhou, as the forefront of reform and opening up, has been in the forefront of the country in market economy. As a city famous for its commerce and trade, Guangzhou people understand the significance of being practical, comfortable and not extravagant. The gene of "low-key and pragmatic" is rooted in the bones of Guangzhou people.

Gao Xuzheng, a scholar, believes that the awareness of equality, fairness and material benefits in business activities is also reflected in the eating habits, such as the general Guangzhou people never force people to drink at banquets, and most banquet dishes are better in moderation. This pragmatic food style of Guangzhou people, which is frugal and not luxurious, is the inevitable result of the development of modern social civilization.

under this background, Guangzhou people have formed the habit of "packing" at the dinner table, and developed into their own unique culture, which exerts a subtle influence on the people who "get rich in Guangdong in the southeast and northwest". Gradually, the civilization on this dining table has also spread to all parts of the country with the saying of "paying the bill" and "packing", which has a far-reaching impact on the diet and lifestyle of other places.

There is also the AA system, which also flows from the dining table in Guangzhou to the whole country and has a great influence.

AA system is the abbreviation of English Acting Appointment, which first appeared in Holland and Italy around the 16th century. At that time, Italian and Dutch businessmen had developed the custom of exchanging information when gathering and paying their bills when they were scattered. Businessmen are more mobile, and they don't know when to meet again after a dinner, so sharing costs with each other has become the best choice.

For this reason, in the eyes of many scholars, AA system represents equal communication relations and is one of the most important symbols of western civilization. In China, this "dining table civilization" first appeared in Guangzhou with strong commercial civilization, which not only reflected Guangzhou as a window for civilized exchange and mutual learning between China and other countries, but also had a great impact on the ideas and concepts of Chinese people.

No wonder Yi Zhongtian described it in Reading the City: "The way of life and existence of Guangzhou people or Cantonese people has increasingly become the object to be imitated by mainland people. These influences go far beyond lifestyle, but directly affect the way of thinking and thinking methods. "

the vitality of the city in the "snack culture"

As night falls, Guangzhou people who have been busy for a whole day, such as Tiyu West Street, Luoxi Food Street, Baoye Road and Yueken Road, have about three or five friends, shouting into the store and quietly locking the freshest ingredients with their eyes. Senior foodies must know Baoye Road in Guangzhou, as well as the most famous crayfish, Putianguang, grilled oysters and Chaoshan casserole porridge here. But don't come during the day. The business hours of restaurants here are all facing the sunset and stepping on the morning glow.

But perhaps most people don't know that midnight snack in Guangzhou is the originator of midnight snack in China. Chen Xiaoqing, who is well-known for filming "China on the Tip of the Tongue", once said that the habit of eating snacks in Guangdong is determined by geography and climate. In hot summer in Guangdong, there is no air conditioning at night, so people can't live at home. People have to stroll to the street to eat something. Unexpectedly, this snack culture originally belonged to the hot summer, which has made Guangzhou a snack paradise and has been handed down all seasons.

midnight snack also represents the "advanced" and "trendy" of Guangzhou. In 197s and 198s, Guangzhou became the bridgehead of China's reform and opening-up. The rapid development of commerce and trade brought by Canton Fair, the absolute geographical advantages adjacent to Hong Kong and Macao, new things and trendy culture blended here one by one.

The night in the city behind the midnight snack is the life background of the busy people in this city. They struggle hard, and this city is open, enterprising and inclusive.

The open and enterprising spirit of the city is vividly reflected in Guangzhou. In the 198s, Guangzhou took the lead in opening the free circulation of vegetables, fruits, fresh fish and other ingredients, which led many people to start their own businesses. Coupled with the comfortable and pleasant night climate, the midnight snack economy came into being.

in the early 199s, Guangdong province ended the circulation of food stamps before other provinces and cities in China, and Guangzhou's wholesale industry and commerce industry became more prosperous. The "migrant workers' tide" that goes south with the trend not only brings abundant labor force, but also makes the snack stalls become a market and grow stronger in the "enthusiasm" and "popularity". Midnight snack has gradually changed from simple "adding meals" to an important life scene with social functions. Workers from the south to the north not only taste Guangzhou cuisine, but also bring food culture from all over the country and even all over the world, and the categories of midnight snack are increasingly diverse.

"Without a midnight snack, why' night snack'?" With more and more people coming to Guangzhou, they also brought Guangzhou's unique midnight snack culture to the north and south of the country. In different places, midnight snack may have different names, but people's yearning for food in the middle of the night is equally strong. The midnight snack culture spread from Guangzhou has influenced the lifestyle of a generation.

In Guangzhou, this lifestyle continues. With the eastward development of urban economy, snack places such as the Western Restaurant Bar Street along Yanjiang Road and the Pearl River Pagan Beer Culture and Creative Art Zone emerged as the times require for "night walkers". Employees of Internet companies gathered in Tianhe and Haizhu teamed up to go to Kexin Road and Yuancun Food Street for supper after working overtime, which also became a unique landscape in Guangzhou, reflecting the city's radiant vitality.

coordinating Chen Bangming and Huang Yingchuan

proofreading Luo Jianpeng

author Yu Qiuliang; Liu Shiqiang

comes from South+Client of Southern Newspaper Media Group.