Mother smokes the meat only once a year, puts sugar in the bottom of the pot, cooks the meat, puts it on an iron pot, coats it with sugar, and finally marinates it in a clay pot. This is the ultimate food when I was a child. I often can't stand the temptation. I secretly broke a piece and quickly put it in my mouth, thinking that it would not be discovered by adults. It seems to be my own secret. New Year's Eve is the most grand meal. I want to pay a New Year call to my elders, put on my coveted new clothes and set off firecrackers in the yard before eating. When making jiaozi, my mother can cook fish and braised pork, and rice cakes are essential. Fish must finish what they started, and all the lights at home are on. Even if a plate is accidentally broken on this day, adults will say "Peace through the years" and father will drink a little wine. I've been drinking with him since I was very young, but it's just a privilege for Chinese New Year. This is just a New Year's Eve dinner in my memory, and it is also an ordinary New Year's Eve dinner for ordinary people in the North China Plain. Not grand, but lively, not good at cooking, but delicious, all the dishes are integrated into my memory. From the 1990s to the present, it has been more than 20 years, and it is also the most rapid time for the reform of New Year's Eve. For a long time, going to restaurants was the mainstream. There are some restaurants with booming business, which often need to be booked one month in advance. And restaurants are becoming more and more standardized in making New Year's Eve dinner. Some restaurants even divide the New Year's Eve dinner into two time periods, one is from 5 pm to 8 pm, and the other is after 8 pm.