? Bailang Town in Yun County at the junction of Hubei, Henan, and Shaanxi, Jingziguan Town in Xichuan County, and Bailang Town in Shangnan County are known as places with “three provinces in one foot”. I have been thinking about it for a long time. According to the local saying in Shaanxi, I would go there to "have a wave". In early summer, my old friends Lao Wang and Lao Wang and I drove from Xi'an to Yunxi to attend a housewarming banquet for a young man. The drunkard's intention is not to drink. The next morning we headed straight from Yunxi to the place where we can “travel to three provinces in one step”. Not long after getting on the Fuyin Expressway, we passed through Yunxian County and drove north. Soon we got off the expressway at Liudong in Yunxian County. After exiting the toll station, we entered Xichuan County, Henan Province. The wheat harvest season has arrived in Henan, with golden wheat waves and scorching sun. The "Maike" people from Shangnan, Shaanxi are driving their harvesters into southern Henan.
After driving northwest for more than ten minutes, we passed Zhang Village and arrived at Jingziguan Town. An old closed door blocked our view, and the three characters "Jingzi Pass" were clearly written on the lintel. The appearance of this gate resembles a stone archway, a single arch of masonry structure, standing across the street.
? Jingziguan passes through the Danjiang River, and the road chokes the pass. It was called Caoqiao Pass in the Western Han Dynasty, Jingzikou in the Yuan Dynasty, Jingzi Pass in the Ming Dynasty, and Jingzi Pass in the Qing Dynasty. The auspicious meaning of purple was changed from "zi" to "zi", and the name of Jingzi Pass continues to this day. This is an ancient commercial street formed in the late Tang Dynasty, located on the bank of Danjiang River. The Danjiang River originates from Shangluo Mountain and flows into the Yangtze River, making it one of the three major north-south passages in history, along with the Canal and Shuzhan. It has become a gathering place for merchants from seven provinces near Henan, Hubei and Shaanxi. By the beginning of the last century, the Danjiang River water was decreasing year by year. In particular, the construction of the Danjiang Reservoir has almost stopped the flow of water in the middle and lower reaches of the river. With the ebb and flow of the tide, this ancient town that thrived on water transportation has lost its golden years.
? Under the scorching sun, the ancient town is less noisy and more peaceful. Entering the gate, you will see an old street paved with bluestones from south to north. Shops from the Ming and Qing Dynasties were strung along the long street. They have white walls and gray tiles, high walls and eaves, and the doors are all made of wooden boards. The whole street looks simple and elegant. It has the roughness and boldness of the north, and the elegance and elegance of the south. There were also coffins selling on the street. Lao Wang and Lao Wang looked at the coffin shop and laughed. It is a good sign for people to go out to see a coffin, because "material" and "wealth" are homophonic. Many ancient buildings have been preserved on the ancient streets. The most famous ones are Pinglang Palace, Shanshan Guild Hall and Yuwang Palace. Pinglang Palace is located on the east side of the South Street of the ancient town, facing east to west. Outside the side door are the bell tower and the drum tower. It has four corners with spiers, triple eaves, wooden structure, gray tiles, brick carved ridges, and a pearl and a pagoda on the top. There are 4 words "good weather". There are wood-carved flowers and plants on the forehead beams. The beams are exquisitely crafted, with intact structure and beautiful shape.
? Entering Pinglang Palace to visit, the guard of the palace is a middle-aged man in his forties. He is very fat but kind, and he keeps explaining to us. Pinglang Palace was built with donations from boatmen in order to pray for the blessing of the river god. This building complex built in the early Qing Dynasty was looted during the "Cultural Revolution". Now the main hall is empty, and only the back hall still enshrines the Bodhisattva. There are still traces of the "Cultural Revolution" period on the walls of the main hall, including portraits of Chairman Mao and political slogans. The fat man also sells stones, and his collection of rare Danjiang stones is displayed in the hall of the main hall. His honesty makes people feel very kind. Each person bought a stone, which was considered a worthwhile trip.
Less than a hundred kilometers northwest from Jingzi Pass, you reach Longju Village in Danfeng County, Shaanxi Province. There is also a Pinglang Palace here. I was there in the fall of 2012. There are two Pinglang Palaces on a river, which shows the prosperity of Danjiang waterway in those years.
? It was already time for lunch. After the fat man’s guidance, we came to a restaurant called Judexuan. This restaurant is located on the southeast side of Pinglang Palace. The shop is antique and it is a specialty restaurant that mainly operates "Eight Big Pieces".
? Walking into the courtyard, the tempting smell of meat fills the air, making people feel hungry. Sit down in a room. I also tasted the "Eight Big Pieces" in the ancient town of Manchuan, Shaanxi Province a few years ago. I browsed the menu and found that they were almost the same. Besides, the three of them couldn't bear the "Eight Big Pieces", so they ordered two dishes from the "Eight Big Pieces" as well as the restaurant's signature dishes. It didn't take long to prepare six dishes. The first dish is a large dish, which is a cold dish composed of sauced meat, dried tofu, fungus, etc. It is a cold dish that goes well with wine. The second dish is fairy jelly.
Shenxian jelly is a special snack in Jingziguan. The jelly is broken into small pieces with a blade and topped with spicy oil, vinegar and garlic water. It tastes refreshing. Nizi, who served the dish, said that the raw material of the jelly is made from the leaves of a wild shrub in the nearby mountains and added with starch. It is sweet in nature and bitter in taste, clears away heat and detoxifies, sterilizes and fights cancer. The third dish was salad with onions. In addition to onions, celery, peppers, minced garlic, coriander and pineapple are also added. After the ingredients are mixed, the color is bright and the taste is even more refreshing. Onions can reduce blood viscosity. In addition, they can enhance metabolism, resist aging, and prevent osteoporosis. They are a health food suitable for middle-aged and elderly people. The fourth dish is the four-sided tripod. This four-sided tripod is a cube of meat. Cut the pork into cubes, braise it, add sweet potatoes, mix the ingredients, steam it in a basket and serve. This dish satisfies cravings, and because of the sweet potatoes, it is fat but not greasy and has a rich flavor. The fifth course was steamed white fish. The fish is wild white fish in Danjiangkou. White fish has fine scales and fine bones, the meat is white and tender, and there is a lot of fat under the scales. It is delicious and wonderful. The sixth dish is stir-fried loofah. Luffa has cooling, diuretic and detoxifying effects. Finally, a bean curd skin soup was served. The soup is light in color, the bean curd skin is soft, and it has the effect of strengthening the stomach and moisturizing the intestines.
? This table’s combination of meat and vegetables suits our taste very well. Lao Wang parked the car at the entrance of the Bailang Town Inn in Shaanxi Province where he was staying that night, and the three of them drank to their heart's content.
? At the junction of the three provinces of Henan, Hubei and Shaanxi, a complete ancient street is hidden in a remote corner. This is simply a miracle. The former water transport terminal and the ancient town where merchants from the north and south gathered together have countless stories of the sunset over the long river and the flash of swords. The laughter of the boatmen and the shouts of guessing games seemed not far away. Drinking under the roof with cornices and dark tiles, I couldn't help but express many emotions. After a few glasses of wine, I couldn't help but feel a strong sense of nostalgia, and I was momentarily entangled in the sunset of history. Under the eaves with red lanterns hanging high, among the interlacing cups and cups, there is always a way to avoid the time that has been broken long ago. No matter how we travel through time and space, even if we are passing by in a hurry, we will have a down-to-earth chivalrous spirit. .
After drinking, the three of them were already a little tipsy. After walking on Jingziguan Ancient Street for about a few minutes, we headed south to Bailang Town in Yun County, Hubei Province. Bailang Street is surrounded by mountains and rivers and is named after the Bailang River originating from the south of Xiangke Town, Shaanxi. Bailang Street is paved with stone strips and is half a mile long. Compared with Jingziguan Town, this ordinary street feels a bit disappointing. The streets are filled with self-built private houses, all of which are similar in style. We are curious and always want to find something interesting. He is curious about everything. When he sees the open door of a house on the street, he will poke his head to take a look. When he sees an old man enjoying the shade under the shade of a tree, he will also come up and strike up a conversation. The residents on the street are dismissive. They are commonplace and accustomed to it. They are immersed in playing their chess and cards, or doing the work in their hands. Who cares about these "idle people". While joking, we entered Bailang Town, Shaanxi Province on the west side.
? Bailang Town, Shaanxi Province is located in the southeasternmost part of Shangnan County. It borders Jingziguan Town, Henan Province to the east, and Bailang Town, Hubei Province, to the south. They are both located on the same Bailang Street, with intertwined buildings and connected houses. They are separated from each other in the shape of the word "pin", which is quite a tripartite pattern. Residents from Shaanxi, Henan and Hubei provinces live on the same street. The Sanqin culture, Yellow River culture, and Yangtze River Chu culture that were revealed inadvertently meet here. Bailang Street, which is less than half a mile long and 10 meters wide, integrates the different customs and customs of the three provinces. When walking on the street, when the music from the shops or residents' houses is playing, I have just heard the minor tunes of Yu Opera, then the singing tunes of Han Opera, and then the roars of Qin Opera, southern and northern tunes, this ups and downs, it is so lively. Southern Henan is the transition zone between north and south. The residential buildings are obviously in the style of Anhui and Hubei. The key parts are usually concentrated on the gate and the roof: the gate is often tall in shape, prominent in position, and exquisitely decorated. It is quite impressive and eye-catching when viewed from a distance and up close. ; On the ridge of the roof, there are vases, sculptures, gray sculptures, iron ornaments, auspicious animals, decorative monuments, etc., which make people feel warm and childish. Hubei is located in the south, where it is rainy and humid, so the floors of residential buildings are slightly higher and the roofs are sloping and tiled. Most of the houses are multi-layered with one entry. It looks like a simple house, but after entering, there are several rooms inside. Probably for the sake of simplicity and practicality, the main house, side rooms, courtyards and patios that were connected by walls in the past no longer exist. Although the Ming and Qing architecture of Shaanxi on the streets has disappeared, the gatehouses standing on the streets have some Shaanxi elements.
Two stone lions lie in front of the gatehouse. The gatehouse is supported by four red pillars. The top is covered with two layers of red tiles and painted with two portraits of the door gods, giving the gatehouse a rich sense of hierarchy. The courtyard houses on the street are obviously in the style of southern Shaanxi. They are mostly narrow rectangular and consist of a hall and ancillary rooms. The past axially symmetrical houses with mainly two, three or four entrances can no longer be found.
? Walking on Bailang Street, you will have an indescribable feeling in your heart. The Danjiang River nurtured the blessed land of these three provinces and became the main thoroughfare between the north and the south in ancient and modern times. Bailang Street, which has a total area of ??less than 1,000 square meters, has been home to mostly male farmers and female businessmen since ancient times. There are markets every day, making it very prosperous. But now the neighborhoods in these three provinces are deserted, and Bailang Street in Shaanxi is even more deserted. Although they are all ancient streets, the Jingziguan Ancient Street in the east is a group of buildings from the Ming and Qing Dynasties, while the houses in Shaanxi in the west and Hubei in the south are nondescript and intriguing. This can't but be said to be a pity. I can only imagine Bailang Street back then with my drunkenness.
In the center of Bailang Street stands a triangular friendship monument, known as the "Three Provinces Stone". The boundary monument is more than 3 meters high, in the shape of a prism on three sides, with three black marbles inlaid on it, facing the three provinces respectively. Under the monument, there is a three-edged sharp stone sticking out of the ground. Since ancient times, this stone has been used as a boundary, with the northeast belonging to Henan Province, the west to Shaanxi Province, and the southeast to Hubei Province. This stone is also known as the "Three Provinces Stone". When you step on the sharp stone, you can say that you step on three provinces with one foot.
On the northeast side of the monument are inns run by Henan residents, on the west side are shops owned by Shaanxi people, and on the south side are restaurants owned by Hubei people. The distance between them is only about eight or nine meters. The monument has become a landmark building at the junction of the three provinces. When I walked into a Shaanxi Xiangdang hotel, I found that in order to cater to the tastes of guests traveling from north to south, the owner not only sold Xifeng wine and Taibai wine, but also Baiyunbian wine and Daohuaxiang wine from Hubei, as well as Dukang wine and Henan wine. Huaihe source wine.
There are about 40 places where the three provinces meet on the Chinese territory. For example, the intersection areas of Qin, Jin, Yu, Shaanxi, Gansu, and Sichuan that I have visited are all scattered places. Some places are bounded by rivers, and some places are sparsely populated. But only in this small Bailang Street All three provinces have town-level grassroots governments.
? This situation is also very rare in the country. The unique geographical environment has created this ancient and unsophisticated scene. ?
? Thousands of years have passed, Bailang Street is like an eternal symbol, becoming a paradise for chickens and dogs...
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